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Nissin Cup Nudist posted:All these parts come from a computer with a fried hard drive, so it's time to get a new machine anyway If the hard drive is fried why do you think the mobo psu or ram are still viable? If you just mean "the drive died" is not replacing the drive a cheap solution? Otherwise yeah the computer's old enough to write off. Pooperscooper posted:I've specced out this computer and what to see what your guys thoughts are on it. I would like something I can get consistent 60 FPS on newer games with high settings at like 1440p (I think 4k is too much for that?). I kind of took the PC Part Picker guide then went for ultra premium parts because usually I keep my computer for a long as time (the one I have now is 8 years old). I'm I over shooting on the PSU? I prefer like super high quality parts that I just run forever. As far as PSUs go "super high quality" doesn't exactly mean "super high capacity" I had to consider what size of PSU to buy just last week and settled on an 850w from seasonic, this was over the 750w everyone was recommending mostly just because I got the shipping on it. (edit: ignore this next part about constant power draw) 1000w PSUs are gonna draw >1000w of power all the time and if you're not using it (you aren't) then it's gonna be a lot of money and electricity for very little. If you wanted more overhead for "future proofing" consider the price delta between that PSU and a lower wattage one and whether or not just buying a new psu later wouldn't be better for value and "premium" upgradability. People have lots of opinions on PSU, there is a "tier list" people reference here which is kinda whatever but I did find their spreadsheet of psus and their OEMs pretty interesting as far as knowing what was different between models amongst brands that were just rebranding oem (like corsair and evga do). For the motherboard I'd compare features on different boards and come to your own decision, it's possible to get comparable for cheaper for sure but if there's some features you really "want" it can be worth it. I ended up getting an ASUS tuf gaming for my AM5 build because I wanted 2 usbc ports and a 5.0 m.2 ssd lane and MSI and gigabyte didn't have that in that chipset. Also not too up on Intel systems but 6000mhz ram seems slow for what those boards can do right? CatelynIsAZombie fucked around with this message at 03:51 on Mar 15, 2024 |
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Mar 14, 2024 22:31
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Last I read DDR5-6000 CL30 was the “sweet spot” for price/performance/stability for both AMD and Intel, but that may have changed.
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Mar 14, 2024 23:06
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Pooperscooper posted:Thanks! Sorry I'm a bit out of the PC parts game but does Corsair make a good PSU? I've always heard quality PSU is a must and okay splurging on it. Can you recommend a PC Case that is quiet and looks good maybe like $150-$200? Corsair has a variety of models that range from quite good to don’t touch. The RM###e (2023) series are just highly rated as good power supplies, and they are native ATX 3.0. They’re not the best brand, but no brand is technically the best anyway. As for your case, tastes are subjective so I can’t recommend something that objectively “looks good,” but I do like the case I put in your parts list, it has been very well reviewed for airflow, and it seems from other posters here that have used it that if you set an appropriate fan curve it’ll be fairly quiet.
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Mar 14, 2024 23:10
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Branch Nvidian posted:Last I read DDR5-6000 CL30 was the “sweet spot” for price/performance/stability for both AMD and Intel, but that may have changed. There's no reason to stick with only 6000 on Intel, 7200 is still very compatible and not much more expensive.
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Mar 14, 2024 23:24
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What is the opinion of heatsinks on SSDs like the Samsung 990 Pro and the WD SN850X? I'm just buying them for a system drive.
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Mar 15, 2024 00:02
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Pooperscooper posted:Can you recommend a PC Case that is quiet and looks good maybe like $150-$200? Pretty much anything from Fractal is a safe bet. Maybe the North for looks or the Torrent for maximum cooling and quiet. CatelynIsAZombie posted:What is the opinion of heatsinks on SSDs like the Samsung 990 Pro and the WD SN850X? I'm just buying them for a system drive. Couldn't hurt.
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Mar 15, 2024 01:24
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CatelynIsAZombie posted:1000w PSUs are gonna draw >1000w of power all the time and if you're not using it (you aren't) then it's gonna be a lot of money and electricity for very little. This is incorrect. The PSU and computer will only use as much electricity as are needed by the components doing what ever task they have under work. There is some variance with efficiency, an overspecced PSU will probably run a little less efficiently, but the difference isn't major.
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Mar 15, 2024 01:58
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Yeah, that claim about PSU power draw is very wrong. And overspecced PSUs actually tend to be slightly more efficient since PSUs are generally most efficient at half power, though this is a minor enough effect to make it not worth paying extra for.Pooperscooper posted:Can you recommend a PC Case that is quiet and looks good maybe like $150-$200? There are a lot of options, though Fractal Design and Lian Li are usually my go-to case manufacturers, with the Fractal Design Torrent having the best air cooling bar none, the Lian Li Lancool 216 hitting the price to performance sweet spot at around $90 - $100, and the Lancool III being a mechanically robust and easy-to-build-in case with great air cooling too (it's the case I'm using for my personal desktop). Just keep in mind that for most cases, you're going to have to tweak your motherboard's fan curves to make them quiet.
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Mar 15, 2024 02:02
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Pooperscooper posted:Thanks! Sorry I'm a bit out of the PC parts game but does Corsair make a good PSU? I've always heard quality PSU is a must and okay splurging on it. Can you recommend a PC Case that is quiet and looks good maybe like $150-$200? I've been using Corsair PSUs for a few years now and have had no issues. Built multiple systems with a Corsair RM850x in it. For a 40 series card you need a $19 cable for 12VHPWR if you don't want to use the adapter that comes with the card. For cases, I've been really happy with the Corsair 4000D. It was easy to build in and routing cables in it was great. I swapped out the fans for Noctuas and it's dead quiet most of the time.
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Mar 15, 2024 11:47
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Branch Nvidian posted:Way overkill on the PSU, and the cost of the PC case is pretty ridiculous. The 14th "Gen" Intel chips are more expensive for not any more real performance, and the Thermalright Peereless Assassin 120SE does basically just as well as the Noctua cooler at a fraction of the cost. I swapped some parts out, and was able to get you into an RTX 4080 Super for less than what you'd specced out. Additionally, get your Windows key from SA Mart for $20. This looks good, but you could do basically the same build with a 7800X3D & B550 for the same price, which will generally perform better in games.
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Mar 15, 2024 15:09
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:Yeah, that claim about PSU power draw is very wrong. And overspecced PSUs actually tend to be slightly more efficient since PSUs are generally most efficient at half power, though this is a minor enough effect to make it not worth paying extra for. I have a Fractal R5 for my old PC and liked it and was looking at new Fractal cases like the Torrent and North but I have pretty sensitive hearing. I've never once in my life adjusted a fan curve, do I have to do that to get a Torrent to be pretty silent?
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Mar 15, 2024 15:33
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Motherboards these days just crank the fans whenever your CPU gets even a little hot. Gigabyte boards are especially bad about this. The old Fractal cases with closed-off front panels and sound dampening made it so your fans being maxed out don't sound too loud, but a case like the Torrent which only has a thin dust filter between its fans and your ears can be pretty loud if your motherboard's fan curve is especially aggressive. Modifying fan curves is very easy though and can usually be done inside your motherboard bios. And with a tweaked fan curve, the Torrent can be extremely quiet, quieter than your R5 probably.
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Mar 15, 2024 15:38
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:Motherboards these days just crank the fans whenever your CPU gets even a little hot. Gigabyte boards are especially bad about this. The old Fractal cases with closed-off front panels and sound dampening made it so your fans being maxed out don't sound too loud, but a case like the Torrent which only has a thin dust filter between its fans and your ears can be pretty loud if your motherboard's fan curve is especially aggressive. Fancontrol curve post from a few pages ago - you can also replicate most of this in the BIOS. Example: With a Thermalright Peerless Assassin and a 7800X3D, you want 40% below 50C, then a linear curve to 60% at 80C and flat from there on up. Going beyond 60% on those fans are a waste, at least with my testing with the 7800X3D in an open air bench and a Define 7 with 3x140mm intake fans and the door open.
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Mar 15, 2024 15:46
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:This looks good, but you could do basically the same build with a 7800X3D & B550 for the same price, which will generally perform better in games. Now don't take this the wrong way but I think the reason I chose Intel is because AMD CPUs was always in my mind like the budget but not long lasting thing. I'm also a complete computer parts idiot now so if I was mostly just going to use it for gaming and browsing the internet should I get the 7800X3d that everyone always praises?
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Mar 15, 2024 15:56
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AMD is better now. Get a 7800X3D + B650 combo and call it good  E: typo, sorry. Wibla fucked around with this message at 16:14 on Mar 15, 2024 |
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Mar 15, 2024 16:01
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Pooperscooper posted:if I was mostly just going to use it for gaming and browsing the internet should I get the 7800X3d that everyone always praises? Yes. Those are precisely the reasons to get the 7800x3D. Also it's the b650 chipset you want. B550 is previous gen and incompatible.
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Mar 15, 2024 16:05
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MixMasterMalaria posted:Thread title suggestion. Sorry for the lack of apostrophe, not allowed! [edit: nevermind, it was something with my copy/paste. Apostrophe allowed!] Internet Explorer fucked around with this message at 21:37 on Mar 15, 2024 |
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Mar 15, 2024 19:32
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Hi all, looking to get a cheap mini pc for android studio development only (for now), linux or windows (or both). Which sub £200 pre-built systems could do this well? This looks good beelink Mini S for £175 with voucher. So does this beelink s12 n95 This is £149 with the £50 off voucher, anyone have experience of ordering from beelink.com? Anything better or cheaper? All suggestions appreciated, thanks. JamesieAB fucked around with this message at 22:42 on Mar 15, 2024 |
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Mar 15, 2024 21:52
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Internet Explorer posted:Sorry for the lack of apostrophe, not allowed! The forums exceed modest expectations once again!
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Mar 15, 2024 22:03
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MixMasterMalaria posted:The forums exceed modest expectations once again! We love our creaky old vBulletin 2 build, it's really held up over time
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Mar 15, 2024 22:08
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HalloKitty posted:We love our creaky old vBulletin 2 build, it's really held up over time *slaps roof of forum* this baby can hold so many posts!
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Mar 15, 2024 23:14
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Wibla posted:AMD is better now. Get a 7800X3D + B650 combo and call it good
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Mar 16, 2024 00:02
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TheMadMilkman posted:Background: I built my current PC back in 2020 based on the advice of the thread. Self-quote. So, as typically happens, my entire situation changed overnight. My son moved back home and will be living with us for the foreseeable future. My old computer with the GTX 1060 will work just fine for his needs. So now, instead of replacing the GPU for my daughter, I'm going to hand my old computer off to my son and build a new one for my daughter. I also had a personal loan repaid earlier than expected, so I have the funds to do this. Still in the US, still not close to a MicroCenter, still chiefly concerned with running Baldur's Gate 3 and Hogwarts Legacy at High settings, 1920 x 1080 @ 60 Hz. Budget: $1100. If slightly more money will yield substantial improvements, I'll find the money, but I'd prefer not to. Any advice?
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Mar 16, 2024 02:57
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Thanks for maintaining the OP. Managed to cannibalize the old PC using new video card + mobo + processor as a true Frankenstein. Incredible how these few (except for the odd case or cooling unit) (but increasingly expensive) parts make all the difference. Still rocking with a brand new 2014 motherboard, apparently.
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Mar 16, 2024 06:10
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Internet Explorer posted:Sorry for the lack of apostrophe, not allowed! Good old ap(ple)ostrophe.
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Mar 16, 2024 06:41
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Is the 4070 Super worth the extra ~50 bucks over the 7900 GRE? And how good of a brand are Inland SSD
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Mar 16, 2024 08:04
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Nissin Cup Nudist posted:Is the 4070 Super worth the extra ~50 bucks over the 7900 GRE? Depends on how much you value ray tracing and DLSS over FSR. Inland is solid. It’s the in-house micro center brand and uses phison controller. It’s not too end but also not super budget, either. They’re fine.
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Mar 16, 2024 11:02
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Butterfly Valley posted:Yes. Those are precisely the reasons to get the 7800x3D. For the motherboard what is a good mid-range one to get? I feel like motherboards are hard to shop for based on reviews, like I'm okay spending $150-200 for a good quality one but seems like they all have technical issues? I was thinking the ASRock B650M Pro RS WiFi Micro ATX AM5 Motherboard Pooperscooper fucked around with this message at 15:43 on Mar 16, 2024 |
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Mar 16, 2024 15:37
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Pooperscooper posted:For the motherboard what is a good mid-range one to get? I feel like motherboards are hard to shop for based on reviews, like I'm okay spending $150-200 for a good quality one but seems like they all have technical issues? It's a bit of a minefield, I've just been through it myself this week. They are all very similar tbh, and performance is near identical bar the odd very benchmark, more so in the mega pricey ones. That's probably why there are so few (non AI generated poo poo) reviews, as there's so little to say. There shouldn't really be many technical issues though? Well maybe there were when the platform launched, but they have all been updated multiple times since then. They differentiate mainly by the M.2 slots (number of, and whether they have a gen 5) and USB connections (whether they have 5Gbps or 10Gbps) Oh, as well as size and appearance too I guess. The one you have picked has 3 M.2 (inc a 5 Gen) and a 5Gbps USB (along with loads of other USB3/2 ones of course) Looks totally fine, unless you really want need a 10Gbps USB rather than a 5Gbps. In that case, you'd have to find a model that swaps that in place of the gen 5 M.2, or go for the higher priced X670 chipset. I'm pretty confident in all that, but yeah, it's confusing, so don't take it as 100% gospel. This explains it pretty well. https://www.techspot.com/guides/2669-amd-ryzen-x670-b650-a620-motherboards/specific Yeah it's totally confusing. your post got me wondering about the board I'm waiting to be delivered (PRIME B650M-A WIFI II) and I realized that I have no idea how they compared. I had a check, and I think mine has 1 fewer M.2 gen, but is £30 cheaper. I think so at least haha. If I'd had a larger budget, I'd have probably got frustrated and just spent more money "to be on the safe side". The cynic in me thinks that's a big part of why it's like this YerDa Zabam fucked around with this message at 16:32 on Mar 16, 2024 |
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Mar 16, 2024 16:04
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I've built 2 pcs 1 that exploded because I got the cheap PSU and the other that lasted until I had to go to college. A lot has changed. I ended up getting a prebuilt during the parts shortage but I'm starting to run into more and more games taking up all of my ram. What country are you in? US Do you live near Microcenter? It's a drive but I can go to one. What are you using the system for? Web and Office? Gaming? Video or photo editing? Professional creative or scientific computing? Shitposting? Gaming / Photo editing What's your budget? We usually specify for just the computer itself (plus Windows), but if you also need monitor/mouse/whatever, just say so. I want to just go to 64GB of ram in 2 sticks if possible. If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution / refresh rate? How fancy do you want your graphics, from “it runs” to “Ultra preset as fast as possible”? Seriously answer this. It drastically changes the recommendations you will get. I'm on a 3070 I'm not going for ultra I usually set the FPS limiter to 60 just out of fan paranoia. If you’re doing professional work, what software do you need to use? What’s your typical project size and complexity? If you use multiple pieces of software, what’s your workflow? Adobe Creative Suite, newer games like HellDivers 2, Baldurs Gate 3, Dragons Dogma 2 https://pcpartpicker.com/products/memory/#Z=65536002&b=ddr4 I was looking at these DDR4's but now I'm wondering if these fit SODIMM is laptop memory so I want the DDR4 DIMM sticks right?
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Mar 16, 2024 17:13
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https://pcpartpicker.com/list/gZsKgB Sketching in a build for a friend of mine. I haven't done deep dives on it yet as he's waiting for tax season to put something together. he's somewhat budget flexible, any big wins going down or up in cost? My build philosophy lately with the way prices are is to go big on CPU/Memory and leave the door open for a graphics upgrade down the line. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D 4.2 GHz 8-Core Processor ($356.00 @ Newegg) CPU Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($33.90 @ Amazon) Motherboard: ASRock B650M-H/M.2+ Micro ATX AM5 Motherboard ($99.99 @ Amazon) Memory: TEAMGROUP T-Create Expert 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6400 CL32 Memory ($99.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Western Digital Black SN850X 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($84.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: XFX Speedster SWFT 309 Radeon RX 6700 XT 12 GB Video Card ($329.99 @ Amazon) Case: SAMA IM01 MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($90.00) Power Supply: Thermaltake Smart BM3 750 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ Newegg) Custom: AMD Wraith Spire Socket AM4 4-Pin Connector CPU Cooler Aluminum Heatsink & 3.81-Inch Fan (Purchased For $15.99) Total: $1190.84 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-03-16 12:21 EDT-0400
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Mar 16, 2024 17:22
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Black Noise posted:I've built 2 pcs 1 that exploded because I got the cheap PSU and the other that lasted until I had to go to college. Presuming this is for an upgrade, select in PCPartPicker your old motherboard as if you were building a new PC on it and the site will attempt to filter to compatible RAM when you subsequently select RAM. Yes if your old motherboard was DDR4 and a desktop then you want DDR4 DIMM but it one hundred percent depends on your motherboard. RAM isn't cross-compatible (eg no DDR4 in a DDR3 board) so we'd need to know that to help.
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Mar 16, 2024 17:44
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TheDemon posted:Presuming this is for an upgrade, select in PCPartPicker your old motherboard as if you were building a new PC on it and the site will attempt to filter to compatible RAM when you subsequently select RAM. It is for an upgrade. The trouble is I can't find the board on the site. System info says BaseBoard Manufacturer: ASUSTek COMPUTER INC. BaseBoard Product: G15CE BaseBoard Version 1.0 Googling the model and the question of which ram is compatible leads me to Donnys Discount Ram. So I check the manufacturer's site and it looks like the two models have mismatched info in the memory section because I have 2 x 8 GB sticks of ram instead of the 2 x 16GB.  So now I'm wondering if this DDR4 DIMM ram I'm looking at is the right form factor because now I'm seeing U-DIMM and SO-DIMM
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Mar 16, 2024 19:35
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Does your board look like this? Googling around, the make/model you provided points to a variant of the board used in ASUS ROG prebuilts, in which case this should be the PCP equivalent
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Mar 16, 2024 19:52
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I picked this motherboard because of the SATA slots and S/PDIF output. I know I'm undershooting a bit on the video card here probably, but I play everything at 1080p 60fps so I figure a 4060 is plenty. Mostly I want to spend more heavily on the processor because I do a lot of trading and the platform is a CPU hog. I also have a 500gb SATA SSD for game storage and 2 large SATA HDD for backups and larger long-term storage that I will be moving from my old system to this one. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D 4.2 GHz 8-Core Processor ($356.00 @ Newegg) CPU Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($33.90 @ Amazon) Motherboard: Gigabyte B650M AORUS ELITE AX Micro ATX AM5 Motherboard ($169.99 @ Amazon) Memory: Corsair Vengeance 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory ($114.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Crucial P3 Plus 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($115.99 @ B&H) Video Card: Gigabyte WINDFORCE OC GeForce RTX 4060 8 GB Video Card ($260.00 @ Amazon) Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower Case ($109.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: Corsair RM750e (2023) 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ Best Buy) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 11 Pro OEM - DVD 64-bit (Purchased For $20.00) Total: $1270.85 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-03-16 15:54 EDT-0400 Tell me if there anything glaringly obvious I have hosed up here. Or if there is any kind of expected news/development or just seasonal timing that would cause a price drop on any of these things over the next 3-6 months. Like some new video card arcitecture that would drop the 4060 price or something. I have a nearly 10 year old rig currently, so I'm obviously not impatient about upgrading. flowinprose fucked around with this message at 21:15 on Mar 16, 2024 |
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Mar 16, 2024 20:58
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Black Noise posted:It is for an upgrade. The trouble is I can't find the board on the site. Can you take a picture of the RAM in your current system, or measure it with a ruler? A DIMM module (which is also UDIMM) will be about 5.25 inches in length, while a SODIMM module will be half that length at about 2.66 inches. Based on that prebuilt it should be DDR4 in either case but I do agree the documentation seems confused.
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Mar 16, 2024 21:33
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I'm contemplating a very high end build. Will likely contain a 4090 and either something as large as a Liquid Freezer III 360/480mm (38mm thick radiator) or a ridiculously large Noctura NH-D15. Is there a good case guide to make sure these components will actually fit? Or is it just digging through reviews, forums, and specsheets trying to make an educated guess?
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Mar 17, 2024 06:37
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Get a big case.
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Mar 17, 2024 07:16
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So how common are faulty parts these days? I suddenly got much more hesitant about dumping the money into this upon hearing that two friends both seemed to get faulty cpus in the 5700x and 5800x range with the computers they purchased this year. Part of my overall fear is having to deal with Amazon's return or exchange system, but prebuilts have also returned to being frustratingly overpriced and just as prone to having issues as the other parts.
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Mar 17, 2024 10:36
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Blorknorg posted:So how common are faulty parts these days? I suddenly got much more hesitant about dumping the money into this upon hearing that two friends both seemed to get faulty cpus in the 5700x and 5800x range with the computers they purchased this year. Part of my overall fear is having to deal with Amazon's return or exchange system, but prebuilts have also returned to being frustratingly overpriced and just as prone to having issues as the other parts. Motherboards can be hit or miss from the get go but CPUs are rarely bad, not that it doesn't happen. Amazon's really good with returns, it's newegg you have to watch out for. Most hardware manufacturers also have a warranty, their RMA systems are just slower than returning stuff to amazon.
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