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Harvey Mantaco
Mar 6, 2007

Someone please help me find my keys =(

Super Waffle posted:

Have you looked into the Escher kits for Necromunda? They're all punk rock ladies.

I did! Bit small for the giant medusa/bat/murder god lady I'd be using them on but the other goons suggestion paid off, found some stl files on myminifactory (that I had to look for on my computer because my new Samsung all off a sudden can't open that app anymore, just goes to a white screen and never leaves. Boooo.)

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Geisladisk
Sep 15, 2007



Some quick old world dwarves.

I was trying to go for the Ye Olde Goblin Greene bases but these might be a bit too green

izagoof
Feb 14, 2004

Grimey Drawer

Cardboard Fox posted:

First time getting into paint conversion from Citadel to Vallejo Game Color and I've been using the github sheet, as well as the Hobby Color Convert app.

Is it just me or are the paints totally different? Like not even subtly lighter or darker, but entire colors missing from a mix. I even added Dawnstone to my own pallet and compared it with StoneWall Grey from Vallejo, and they don't compare at all. What makes it worse is how different all of these comparisons are across multiple apps. Very confusing.

A simple leather recipe from Citadel goes Dryad Bark -> Rhinox Hide -> Mournfang Brown -> XV-88/Skrag Brown. The color comparison to Vallejo is just off. I'm also not very good at mixing.

The one on github at least, seems to be way off, as I've also noticed. I suspect who ever made it just went to the websites for each respective company and tried to get hex codes for each paint off of it by using the paint dropper tool and then programmatically calculated the rgb distances between them, which I don't know poo poo about paint, but I'm guessing it does not work that way at all.

izagoof
Feb 14, 2004

Grimey Drawer
One nice thing about those crappy airbrushes with the portable compressor (mine was I think ~$75) is that I can do my priming and basecoating outside, so no need for a booth or spray cans. I definitely am overspraying and getting a little pooling but the Vallejo primer is so forgiving.

Eventually gonna get a proper setup though, those Marco videos where he does a quick value sketch with just the airbrush are pretty convincing.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Scalemates looks like it has a pretty big database for paints. You can give that a shot.

Bark! A Vagrant
Jan 4, 2007

Grad school is good for mental health
Amazon seems straight-up cursed for some airbrush-related products. The new spray booth I ordered was clearly stripped for parts by someone who swapped in their broken parts and returned it. Same thing happened with the first compressor + airbrush combo I ordered.

Mederlock
Jun 23, 2012

You won't recognize Canada when I'm through with it
Grimey Drawer

Bark! A Vagrant posted:

Amazon seems straight-up cursed for some airbrush-related products. The new spray booth I ordered was clearly stripped for parts by someone who swapped in their broken parts and returned it. Same thing happened with the first compressor + airbrush combo I ordered.

Well, you can always report it and get a replacement one at least!

Hedningen
May 4, 2013

Enough sideburns to last a lifetime.





Testing out a color scheme for my next Blood Bowl team, and I think it’s kind okay so far? I wanted to deal with my biggest weaknesses as a painter, so the goal is to practice white cloth, basic NMM, and clearly defining the separation between shapes. How’d I do?

I know the cloak needs much more blending and smoothing out with glazes, I haven’t done any shading or highlighting on the tail, and the eyes need something more, but I think the basic scheme works on the Gutter Runner.

The Blitzer took a lot of time, and I think I got most of the reflections to read as metallic and a rich red color. The lights on the back plate feel off, though, and I missed part of the armor that was in shadow.

Bo-Pepper
Sep 9, 2002

Want some rye?
Course ya do!

Fun Shoe
Ghazghkull Thraka WIP

feelin good about this face

Bo-Pepper
Sep 9, 2002

Want some rye?
Course ya do!

Fun Shoe
Still doin

Bohemian Nights
Jul 14, 2006

When I wake up,
I look into the mirror
I can see a clearer, vision
I should start living today
Clapping Larry

Bo-Pepper posted:

Ghazghkull Thraka WIP

feelin good about this face





Bo-Pepper posted:

Still doin



He's gonna look fukken & hella sweet

Flipswitch
Mar 30, 2010


My new airbrush arrived today and I'm hella excited.

Though I'm off on a trip soon and can't use it.

SiKboy
Oct 28, 2007

Oh no!😱

Did a little more painting, all Malifaux

2 Dead Doxies. That tiny blue hat fell off the hand and got temporarily lost once while building, and then another twice when painting.


And a Wanyudo (which is apparently from japanese folk tales, a burning wheel with a face in the middle). Not the best fire I've ever done, but the weird orientations made it tough to judge which should be the brightest parts of the flames.

Nessus
Dec 22, 2003

After a Speaker vote, you may be entitled to a valuable coupon or voucher!



I was reviewing the Pro Acryl article on Goonhammer and it struck me that I might have been pre-emptively over-thinning, which created more problems for me than it solved. How hard do y'all generally thin that stuff? Is it actually pre-watered somehow or did they just Do Good on that line of paints?

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Nessus posted:

I was reviewing the Pro Acryl article on Goonhammer and it struck me that I might have been pre-emptively over-thinning, which created more problems for me than it solved. How hard do y'all generally thin that stuff? Is it actually pre-watered somehow or did they just Do Good on that line of paints?

it's already pretty drat thin, especially the whites and oranges or other light colors, i usually do the normal amount of thinning on the wet palette one does to not have a brush overloaded with paint and go for it. You can certainly go thinner but you're pushing it into glazes at that point and I'm honestly too impatient to spend much time glazing at all, takes too drat long.

Nessus
Dec 22, 2003

After a Speaker vote, you may be entitled to a valuable coupon or voucher!



GreenBuckanneer posted:

it's already pretty drat thin, especially the whites and oranges or other light colors, i usually do the normal amount of thinning on the wet palette one does to not have a brush overloaded with paint and go for it. You can certainly go thinner but you're pushing it into glazes at that point and I'm honestly too impatient to spend much time glazing at all, takes too drat long.
Yeah I think I may have veered into the borderland of glazes. What I did, sort of by accident, with the jade was to add a brushload of water and otherwise to just have my cycle be clean-dip, wipe on paper towel, water-pot dip, paint blob dip. However my main coverage was with white/ivory and their red. I also agree that their titanium white is borderline magical.

e: With the reds and whites I had added a fingertip-adhered drop of water to the blob of paint (5-6 drops, to be scientific about it). This made a fairly thin coat, though two coats looked pretty good, just not a smooth flat red. The copper took this treatment much better.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

It's too thin if the paint starts to shrink into a pool on a miniature instead of staying where you applied it on the surface. Otherwise it's fine and you apply more layers until you're happy with it imo.

Triskelli
Sep 27, 2011

I AM A SKELETON
WITH VERY HIGH
STANDARDS


Looking for some feedback on my first ever painted mini:





I was working from a friend’s collection of paint, so I wasted a lot of time and built up a lot of layers tinkering with the colors, and our paint day ended before I could really go over the details. Still, I’m proud of how this one came out.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Triskelli posted:

Looking for some feedback on my first ever painted mini:





I was working from a friend’s collection of paint, so I wasted a lot of time and built up a lot of layers tinkering with the colors, and our paint day ended before I could really go over the details. Still, I’m proud of how this one came out.

Think back to however you painted the model. Think about how "wet" the paint was on the brush and how it flowed out of the brush onto the model. Now, next time, try thinning it more by adding a smidge more water than you did before.

Besides that, for a first mini, I think you did well with coloring in the lines of such a small object. I think it came out quite well!

Nessus
Dec 22, 2003

After a Speaker vote, you may be entitled to a valuable coupon or voucher!



Yeah that is really solid for a first go! If you weren't time crunched I would have taken a smol brush and cleaned up the lines such as on the shoulderpads but you were also probably constantly discovering new nuances of the process as you went along.

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





Triskelli posted:

Looking for some feedback on my first ever painted mini:





I was working from a friend’s collection of paint, so I wasted a lot of time and built up a lot of layers tinkering with the colors, and our paint day ended before I could really go over the details. Still, I’m proud of how this one came out.

Looks good and reminds me of deep rock galactic.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Need to build up painting stamina, slathering green contrast paint on 30 gretchin/orks is my limit for the day.

Did I mention how I don't like batch painting?

Harvey Mantaco
Mar 6, 2007

Someone please help me find my keys =(
Forgive me









Bark! A Vagrant
Jan 4, 2007

Grad school is good for mental health

Nessus posted:

Yeah I think I may have veered into the borderland of glazes. What I did, sort of by accident, with the jade was to add a brushload of water and otherwise to just have my cycle be clean-dip, wipe on paper towel, water-pot dip, paint blob dip. However my main coverage was with white/ivory and their red. I also agree that their titanium white is borderline magical.

e: With the reds and whites I had added a fingertip-adhered drop of water to the blob of paint (5-6 drops, to be scientific about it). This made a fairly thin coat, though two coats looked pretty good, just not a smooth flat red. The copper took this treatment much better.

You can keep some parchment paper to the side and test the mixed paint on it. Paint on it like you were painting a model and whether the paint stays where you put it or snaps back / how quickly it does will tell you how thin it is (thinner = more snap back). The exact consistency will be a little trial and error, but this will let you learn over time what consistency you want for base coast/glaze etc. so variations in paint brands or pigments don't mess you up. Some people do the same thing with the back of their hand or nail.


This is amazing

Aliensandwich
Jan 21, 2024

Bo-Pepper posted:

Still doin



He's lookin siick. some insane detail goin on

I have a soft spot for Ghazgkhull. I had the chonky metal one from 20 years ago, and he was my favorite model for most of my life lmao

Bohemian Nights
Jul 14, 2006

When I wake up,
I look into the mirror
I can see a clearer, vision
I should start living today
Clapping Larry

But where is the ports for their black carapace???

Issaries
Sep 15, 2008

"At the end of the day
We are all human beings
My father once told me that
The world has no borders"

I've made a hueg mistake:

Radiation Cow
Oct 23, 2010

Well, at least you're set for paints for forever. I'm curious about your thoughts, people seem generally positive about the range, but it's hard to tell how much of that is hype and how much is actual quality.

Issaries
Sep 15, 2008

"At the end of the day
We are all human beings
My father once told me that
The world has no borders"

Radiation Cow posted:

Well, at least you're set for paints for forever. I'm curious about your thoughts, people seem generally positive about the range, but it's hard to tell how much of that is hype and how much is actual quality.

That would actually require me to paint something :haw:

I kid. I've continued painting my Bretonnian knights. I've used Daemonic Yellow only so far.
Painting on top of white primer and yellow speedpaint worked fine (duh).
I also had painted the horse reins with dark brown speedpaint and one coat of D.Yellow on top of that on the mini shields look great.

Paint comes thick out of bottle, with no separation like in previous gen.
It is so thick, I need to work on my paint thinning. I Never bothered to thin with previous AP paints.

Turbinosamente
May 29, 2013

Lights on, Lights off

Bo-Pepper posted:

Ghazghkull Thraka WIP

feelin good about this face



That is peak early 2000s edgy PS2 game aesthetic and I am here for it, great job so far!

SiKboy
Oct 28, 2007

Oh no!😱

Lostconfused posted:

Need to build up painting stamina, slathering green contrast paint on 30 gretchin/orks is my limit for the day.

Did I mention how I don't like batch painting?

About ten at a time is more or less my limit for batch painting before it starts to feel like a chore rather than a hobby.



Where on earth did you get buff pokemon minis/stls?

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.
I've pretty much only painted terrain over the past few years, although a fair amount of it. I have a bunch of craft acrylics, and they're fine for that but pretty lousy for painting minis. To dip my toes in the miniature painting world, I got the Reaper Bones "Layer Up!" kit and found it super intuitive. I'm planning to pick up their "Core Skills" kit as well, mostly so I have some guided projects to work on because I tend to learn pretty well that way.

My question is, from reading the OP, it seems like the Reaper paints are generally well regarded but maybe not as commonly used as the ones specifically called out in the section leading up to that. Is there another offering that one of the paint companies have that compares to these Reaper kits? I found the reaper paint to go on easily, mix well, and generally work for what I was trying to do. I am limited far more at this point by my skills than I am by their paint I think.

I have a bunch of minis to work on as well, stand-alone sets of miniatures from a variety of places and also a ton of boardgames that have minis I could practice on. So while I don't explicitly need the kit, I do think that working through their examples gives me a good sense of how I might go about painting some other minis.

Harvey Mantaco
Mar 6, 2007

Someone please help me find my keys =(

SiKboy posted:

About ten at a time is more or less my limit for batch painting before it starts to feel like a chore rather than a hobby.

Where on earth did you get buff pokemon minis/stls?

MMF but there's weirdly a lot of them if you just Google "body builder pokemon stl"

grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.

armorer posted:

I've pretty much only painted terrain over the past few years, although a fair amount of it. I have a bunch of craft acrylics, and they're fine for that but pretty lousy for painting minis. To dip my toes in the miniature painting world, I got the Reaper Bones "Layer Up!" kit and found it super intuitive. I'm planning to pick up their "Core Skills" kit as well, mostly so I have some guided projects to work on because I tend to learn pretty well that way.

My question is, from reading the OP, it seems like the Reaper paints are generally well regarded but maybe not as commonly used as the ones specifically called out in the section leading up to that. Is there another offering that one of the paint companies have that compares to these Reaper kits? I found the reaper paint to go on easily, mix well, and generally work for what I was trying to do. I am limited far more at this point by my skills than I am by their paint I think.

I have a bunch of minis to work on as well, stand-alone sets of miniatures from a variety of places and also a ton of boardgames that have minis I could practice on. So while I don't explicitly need the kit, I do think that working through their examples gives me a good sense of how I might go about painting some other minis.

What are you looking for from that kit specifically?

If you just want comparable paint, that's basically everything out there on the market that's not craft paint.

If you want a pre-made kit with some brushes and maybe some thinner, you can get that from a bunch of retailers, though you should probably just buy your own.

If you want a set of pre-constructed triads (shade, base color, highlight) straight from the company, that's harder. I think you're mostly stuck with Reaper, Army Painter, and Two Thin Coats.

I assume there's a GW set out there that has a corresponding tutorial video for beginners, but I don't have enough back catalog on their videos to say for sure.

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

grassy gnoll posted:

If you want a set of pre-constructed triads (shade, base color, highlight) straight from the company, that's harder. I think you're mostly stuck with Reaper, Army Painter, and Two Thin Coats.

VGC and AK 3rd Gen also have similar color groups, and sell four-packs of linked paints to show it off.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

grassy gnoll posted:

What are you looking for from that kit specifically?

If you just want comparable paint, that's basically everything out there on the market that's not craft paint.

If you want a pre-made kit with some brushes and maybe some thinner, you can get that from a bunch of retailers, though you should probably just buy your own.

If you want a set of pre-constructed triads (shade, base color, highlight) straight from the company, that's harder. I think you're mostly stuck with Reaper, Army Painter, and Two Thin Coats.

I assume there's a GW set out there that has a corresponding tutorial video for beginners, but I don't have enough back catalog on their videos to say for sure.

I don't need the brushes, I have quite a few already. What I liked about the kit I went through already is that it gives good color recipes for different sections of the models, and it presents it all in a really cohesive way. It has you paint fabric, leather, chainmail, a few different skin tones, a blade, etc and walks you through which paints work well together as base/shadow/highlight.

So yeah, I like the preconstructed triads and the guidance on the specific minis that ship with the kit. I think once I've painted more models I'll be happy to break loose and just start painting the other minis I have with the paints I will have accumulated by that point.

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





Issaries posted:

I've made a hueg mistake:


I also ordered that and am looking forward to it. It is being delivered today. Unfortunately I am in Las Vegas for 10 days.

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

God did not mean for goon to have that many paints, it’s… *looks at paint collection* oh poo poo, I could have bought so, so much!

Cannibal Smiley
Feb 20, 2013


I'm stumped as to how the original artist painted these. There's obviously layers of red and purple in there, possibly contrast paint washes, but I'm stumped as to how he got the texture the way that he did. I thought initially that it was drybrushing, but I wasn't able to replicate it by using a makeup brush and very little paint. Anybody else have an idea of how these were painted?

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Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Could be airbrush or rattle can sorta spray.

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