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I'm not thrilled about this but I'll need to street park my bike in Boston for at least the summer. What's a good GPS tracker that'll alert me and find it when it gets stolen?
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Mar 11, 2024 18:58
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I use invoxia, but it's a bit expensive. I sometimes wonder if theft insurance would be a better route. do I even want the bike back after thieves have been at it?
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Mar 11, 2024 20:05
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RadioPassive posted:I'm not thrilled about this but I'll need to street park my bike in Boston for at least the summer. I use a Monimoto. It worked as intended, calling my cell and activating tracking when I tested it. It's combined with a brake lock, a few airtags and an Oxford Beast chain lock (after thieves got through a Kryptonite NY Fuhgettaboutit lock). Ugly up your bike cover too. Smear something on it that could be mistaken for poop for maximum deterence.
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Mar 11, 2024 20:14
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MSPain posted:I use invoxia, but it's a bit expensive. I sometimes wonder if theft insurance would be a better route. do I even want the bike back after thieves have been at it? That’s always been my thought. Jist get good insurance and then get a new bike. You don’t want it back after it gets joyridden around the city and gone after with a screwdriver
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Mar 12, 2024 02:15
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I have some super basic questions about electrical systems. On the right, the charging circuit says after the reg/rec it goes from the A terminal of the 30A fuse to the +ve battery terminal. On the left, the starting circuit says the A terminal of the 30A fuse goes first to the post on the starter, then to the +ve battery terminal. I don’t have access to the bike right now, but when I see differences like this, is it usually just shorthand for diagram (in)convenience? Or are there really two wires on the A terminal of the 30A fuse (one to the starter, one to the battery). If not, isn’t the starter part of the charging circuit, and if so, why wouldn’t they show that in the charging circuit diagram? epswing fucked around with this message at 17:20 on Mar 14, 2024 |
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Mar 14, 2024 16:08
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The short answer is those are bullshit pseudo diagrams with no consistency. The wires going to the starter and to the battery are joined somewhere, usually the ring terminals overlap at the battery post or the fuse holder has two terminals that are being represented as one terminal there. Being a sportster iirc they are two overlapping ring terminals on the starter itself. They're all part of the same system/circuit physically, they're just arbitrarily split up for supposed ease of use or something. I have no idea why they represented the starter on the charging system diagram, but they are physically connected irl, although you never use the starter while the charging system is doing anything, by definition. Is this a Haynes manual or something? The Harley online manual diagrams don't look like that.
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Mar 14, 2024 17:55
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Slavvy posted:Is this a Haynes manual or something? The Harley online manual diagrams don't look like that. It's a photo from my actual '05 Sportster FSM.
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Mar 14, 2024 18:30
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Ffs Harley, that's absolutely dire
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Mar 14, 2024 18:50
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I see where you’re confused, that’s not actually an electrical diagram, that’s a map to the dealership.
Russian Bear fucked around with this message at 00:50 on Mar 15, 2024 |
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Mar 15, 2024 00:16
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How are you all selling your bikes these days? I mentioned putting my old bike on Craigslist to my mechanic, and he said everyone uses Facebook Marketplace or Cycle Trader now
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Mar 15, 2024 21:26
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Professor Wayne posted:How are you all selling your bikes these days? I mentioned putting my old bike on Craigslist to my mechanic, and he said everyone uses Facebook Marketplace or Cycle Trader now Marketplace is it sadly. Craigslist is d e a d.
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Mar 15, 2024 21:53
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The last three bikes I've bought have all been through Facebook marketplace. The one before that I found in the local paper
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Mar 15, 2024 21:54
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In Canada, or at least Ontario, both Kijiji and Marketplace are active. Marketplace has more squids and boomers who know what they got.
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Mar 15, 2024 22:20
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FB's lower barrier to entry can work in your favor as a buyer. When I bought on FB, I looked for listings that had been there a while, several weeks. I found one that didn't optimize its title and didn't rank high in searches. The owner had dropped the list price a few times, so I was able to buy my current bike quite a bit cheaper than it would be anywhere else. Keep an eye out for misspelled and mislabeled bikes. Sometimes it's an earnest seller who is not good with computer. Selling is more annoying. You get a fair number of lowballers, but if you hold out you can find someone who can meet you somewhere reasonable. Write a good title, tag your big correctly, and take some decent photos and you'll outdo more than half the sellers there. On craigslist, I barely got any responses at all. Seems pretty dead there.
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Mar 15, 2024 22:33
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My last private sale bike was Marketplace for sure. Anecdotally, Kijiji around my area is a lot of Marketplace crossposts so Marketplace is my go-to now, but I still check both when I'm looking for something. Craigs definitely donezo around here.
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Mar 15, 2024 22:35
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Ugh now I remember why I hadn't checked Craigslist or anything in so long. I want to buy so many of these dumb bikes on Marketplace.
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Mar 16, 2024 21:34
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Hi, I need a new radiator cap. It is Suzuki p/n 17730-08J00. This does not exist for purchase in Canada, from what I can find. Lead/shipping times for the US are inconveniently long. Can I use whatever generic brand Fortnine (Moose) or Amazon (CULMKARI) sells? And if so, what pressure do I need to get? I can't find what the OEM cap rating is (possibly 16psi/1.1 bar, but my only options for the fortnine one seem to be much higher than that - 1.6+ bar).
Finger Prince fucked around with this message at 18:57 on Mar 19, 2024 |
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Mar 19, 2024 18:30
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I mean, how can I argue with this?
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Mar 19, 2024 18:31
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eBay? https://www.ebay.com/itm/386477648664
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Mar 20, 2024 00:00
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That's not an OE part, the "for" in the title is a dead giveaway. e: also it ships from China lol
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Mar 20, 2024 00:28
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1.1bar is the OEM: https://www.partzilla.com/product/suzuki/17730-08J00 I can't speak to the pressure difference in what's available to you locally/quickly, but I'm not one to be picky about OEM for something like a radiator cap.
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Mar 20, 2024 15:44
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metallicaeg posted:1.1bar is the OEM: Thanks. I'm just going to order the generic one off Amazon. It should hold fine, then I might order an OEM one to have as a backup. The reason I preferred OEM is I don't know the provenance of the one that's on there now, and it's the source of my problem.
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Mar 20, 2024 16:01
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Finger Prince posted:Hi, I need a new radiator cap. It is Suzuki p/n 17730-08J00. This does not exist for purchase in Canada, from what I can find. Lead/shipping times for the US are inconveniently long. Can I use whatever generic brand Fortnine (Moose) or Amazon (CULMKARI) sells? And if so, what pressure do I need to get? I can't find what the OEM cap rating is (possibly 16psi/1.1 bar, but my only options for the fortnine one seem to be much higher than that - 1.6+ bar). Goddamn, really? Going by Partzilla it's a really commonly used part, I'm surprised your Suz dealer can't get one. Have a visit and pocket one off the floor V-Strom/Busa/Gixxer if they won't sell it to you. (bad idea don't actually do that) (could be worth seeing if there's a bike wrecker around or a mechanic who had to throw out a rad who might have a used one, too.) Phy fucked around with this message at 23:09 on Mar 20, 2024 |
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Mar 20, 2024 19:58
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There's a few spots of rust I'm finding on my frames here and there as I do various things on various bikes. Where I can, I've been taking a scouring pad as best I can and dabbing on some krylon with a brush. Some of the rust I can see under plastic and behind wiring where I would need to actually do a fair amount of work to strip the bike to resolve. Is there anything I can spray on or apply to just .. i don't know .. neutralize? ... treat? ... the small rust spots to at least inhibit them I mean the other option is "ignore it and do nothing" which is effectively what I've been doing for now, but it's kind of nagging at me. I don't think they're critical or anything, it's just paint that flecked away and the underlying steel is rusting like steel does. I always just hate seeing it on an otherwise nice looking bike. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 15:01 on Mar 21, 2024 |
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Mar 21, 2024 14:52
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You can get rust converter in both spray and brush on form, it turns the rust into stuff you can sand or paint straight over
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Mar 21, 2024 18:17
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OK killer, so the gameplan can just be to get it in some spray and kind of burp it in the inaccessible spots and call it a day?
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Mar 21, 2024 18:26
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My inclination is more towards using a long thin paint brush from the art shop or something cause it's more controlled and tidy but idk depends on what inaccessible is
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Mar 21, 2024 18:34
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I think that works too. Nothing is so inaccessible that I can't really reach in there, I just can't (ahem .. don't want to) tear out wiring harnesses or plastics on working bikes to actually scour to metal, and wasn't sure about just painting actual krylon over untreated rust. Thanks!
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Mar 21, 2024 18:39
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Definitely still paint over the converted rust, though. The surface the converter leaves behind can re-rust if it's left open. Source: me, cause I did that.
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Mar 22, 2024 14:45
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I've been thinking mounting a small red LED strip to the back of my luggage rack and wiring it to my brake/tail light, because I'm worried about it's visibility being obscured to people in tall vehicles. Should be pretty straightforward to just wire one in parallel, right? No blinking, so it shouldn't need anything special as far as resistors, I'm thinking.
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Mar 25, 2024 23:15
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As long as it's designed for 12v you should be able to just hook it up in parallel, yep.
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Mar 26, 2024 02:52
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Be sure to fuse it or put it on an existing, fused circuit. If option 2, you might need to resize the fuse
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Mar 26, 2024 03:00
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A taller tail light? Maybe bosozoku had the right idea after all.
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Mar 26, 2024 04:54
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I picked up a used drz the other day and managed to almost immediately flood it with gas. I’m assuming because I didn’t have the manual petcock lined up right after I parked it. I was planning on changing the oil since it smells like gas now and getting a new air filter since that got soaked. Is there anything in the carb that I should look at? Anything somewhere else? I hope that being a bit more careful turning the petcock off will prevent this from happening again because man, what a pain.
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Mar 29, 2024 15:30
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Float valve. Those can leak and fill the crankcase with fuel.
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Mar 29, 2024 17:32
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Yeah leaving the tap on by itself shouldn't immediately cause that, it's likely got a tired or sticky float valve
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Mar 29, 2024 20:11
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Edit, wrong thread
Supradog fucked around with this message at 20:40 on Mar 29, 2024 |
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Mar 29, 2024 20:34
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cursedshitbox posted:Float valve. Those can leak and fill the crankcase with fuel. Slavvy posted:Yeah leaving the tap on by itself shouldn't immediately cause that, it's likely got a tired or sticky float valve Ok that makes sense. Time to learn how to take apart a carburetor.
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Mar 30, 2024 13:26
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hit the bricks pal! posted:Time to learn how to take apart a carburetor. Assembly is the reverse of disassembly except that you swear in different places.
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Mar 30, 2024 17:53
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Make sure to take apart all your carburetors at the same time so you can clean them together for maximum efficiency.
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Mar 30, 2024 18:14
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