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I'm building a new gaming PC for my wife, which is similar to the one I built for myself last August. Target specs are 1440p and able to run modern games for the next few years. The major difference is going from an Aorus Z790 to a B760. I think the Z-series is overkill unless you have a ton of drives or high-bandwidth USB devices, right? I only picked it for mine because at the time there was a great deal on it. I also changed the 4080 in mine to a 4070 Super, because the 4070 Super should still be fine for games for many years to come. Does anyone see any big red flags with this one? PCPartPicker Part List CPU: Intel Core i7-13700K 3.4 GHz 16-Core Processor ($344.99 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: Deepcool AK400 66.47 CFM CPU Cooler ($34.99 @ Amazon) Motherboard: Gigabyte B760 AORUS ELITE AX ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($169.99 @ Amazon) Memory: Corsair Vengeance 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory ($114.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Samsung 990 Pro 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($179.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Samsung 990 Pro 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($179.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: Gigabyte WINDFORCE OC GeForce RTX 4070 SUPER 12 GB Video Card ($599.99 @ Best Buy) Case: Lian Li LANCOOL 216 ATX Mid Tower Case ($106.99 @ Amazon) Power Supply: Corsair RM850e (2023) 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($129.99 @ Amazon) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 11 Pro OEM - DVD 64-bit ($20.00 @ SAMart) Total: $1881.91 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-04-03 11:07 EDT-0400
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Apr 3, 2024 16:19
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Update: found a brand new Sapphire Pulse for $865 and went for it. Now to sell the 3080 and convince myself this was affordable. Appreciate the input!
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Apr 3, 2024 16:41
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Blorknorg posted:Every step fights me unfortunately. I've never been able to purchase from their site, in any browser, with any level of java permissions enabled. Some segment between putting things in a cart and actually checking out just doesn't work for me, and their site in general is unforgivably shaky for a computer store. I'm also not sure that my stupid debit card has enough daily limit to cover the price...and of course the bank doesn't answer their chat requests OR their support line for me to even try to ask. The Canada Computers website is godawful, your not alone. That said if there's one nearby you can order thru the website and go to pickup and pay then, that's what I did.
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Apr 3, 2024 23:51
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Blorknorg posted:Every step fights me unfortunately. I've never been able to purchase from their site, in any browser, with any level of java permissions enabled. Some segment between putting things in a cart and actually checking out just doesn't work for me, and their site in general is unforgivably shaky for a computer store. I'm also not sure that my stupid debit card has enough daily limit to cover the price...and of course the bank doesn't answer their chat requests OR their support line for me to even try to ask. What I do is just check what they have, their store supply and just go an pick it up. I'm fortunate that I have 2 of them in a 20 min drive from me. But the website is just poo poo. Even filtering .... ughh. The newegg website I found to have the best filtering out there for computer components.
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Apr 3, 2024 23:56
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Branch Nvidian posted:Good catch! PCPartPicker missed that too! Just finished building this pc last night, trying to boot it now and getting a red light for cpu and an orange one below that. Won't boot up, monitor doesn't act like it notices anything at all. I opened it up and tried making sure the ram was slotted in fully, checked the different connections on the mobo, no difference so far. I also left it to run for like 5 minutes and see if it'd fix itself, which it did not. I'm terrified I hosed up the cpu somehow, but yeah I'm not sure what else to do. The Cooler was pretty tight to screw down on top of the processor, I'm hoping it's supposed to be like that. What should I do?
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Apr 4, 2024 13:35
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Jeremor posted:Just finished building this pc last night, trying to boot it now and getting a red light for cpu and an orange one below that. Won't boot up, monitor doesn't act like it notices anything at all. I opened it up and tried making sure the ram was slotted in fully, checked the different connections on the mobo, no difference so far. I also left it to run for like 5 minutes and see if it'd fix itself, which it did not. A red light for CPU usually means it's not detecting the CPU at all. I'd remove the cooler (which, yes, should absolutely be tight when it's on properly), remove the CPU, reseat it and replace the cooler. Take pictures and post them here if you want.
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Apr 4, 2024 13:43
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https://ibb.co/ft92ss1 https://ibb.co/W2C4f6M Here's two pictures of the cpu. It kind of looks like some pins got bent at some point but I have no idea how. Is this severe enough to cause problems?
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Apr 4, 2024 14:14
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That picture of the bent pins doesn’t look great and is probably your issue
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Apr 4, 2024 14:42
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Your motherboard is hosed op I've fixed a few bent pins in the past, with the use of a microscope that I use for doing phone repairs. Those look too badly damaged, and there's too many by the looks of it. Some pins/pads don't actually do anything and you can get lucky, but that's a lot sadly. The one I fixed was probably an LGA775 or something, which would be much much "easier" than a modern one with idk 1700 pins, and even that was a fucker. Even when you can see how they are bent with a scope, and have a tool to try to bend em back (a 0.2mm mechanical pencil iirc) they are basically springs and really really don't want to go back at all. If it was a $500 motherboards and you had a morcosodering type person close by, then it might be worth a check, but I'd guess that it'd be best to replace the board. Of course, you've nothing to loose, so look up some youtube videos and have at it? *Actually on second thoughts, maybe a badly "fixed" pin could also damage your CPU, so I'd not actually advise that.* I once, ironically, dropped the plastic cover thing onto a dual CPU LGA2011 board and totaled it (Valium is a hell of a drug) so I feel your pain YerDa Zabam fucked around with this message at 15:45 on Apr 4, 2024 |
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Apr 4, 2024 15:04
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Jeremor posted:https://ibb.co/ft92ss1 Yeah that socket is done for. Did it look like that when you opened it or did you drop anything into the socket at all?
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Apr 4, 2024 16:19
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https://ibb.co/f9tnJSt https://ibb.co/vsHLNGD Well I spent about 4 hours with a pocket knife trying to straighten everything. This is the result, best I could make it. Being hopeful, I installed the chip and the cooler back and tried to boot it.same issue, red cpu light yellow dram light, no monitor activity at all. God drat it I don't remember it looking like this when I got it, but I never dropped the chip or anything as far as I'm aware I'm almost wondering if I used too much thermal paste and squashed the chip down in some weird way while installing the cooler. I don't know. I seriously doubt I'll get a warranty or anything like that for it. Ordered a replacement board now, least it wasn't too expensive I guess. Learned some lessons. Jeremor fucked around with this message at 18:05 on Apr 4, 2024 |
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Apr 4, 2024 17:37
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Excess paste will just ooze out the sides, it won't add socket-ruining pressure. That said, I have no idea what happened here, I'd expect it was damage caused to the socket when the cpu wasn't in, but you said you were careful so 
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Apr 4, 2024 18:06
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Jeremor posted:I seriously doubt I'll get a warranty or anything like that for it. Ordered a replacement board now, least it wasn't too expensive I guess. Learned some lessons. It's from Newegg right? They recently went through a scandal where they were selling second hand damaged and RMAed boards as new and then refusing refunds, which caused prominent tech community figures to rake them over the coals for it. Because of that I'd say you would have to have been very unlucky to have had the same thing happen to you (jesus that's a lot of haves) - you'd have probably been able to tell if the box was second hand, and I reckon they'll have tightened up their processes a lot since the scandal to avoid the terrible PR that would get them. But depending on how you feel about scamming a big company like that you could send them the photo and say that's how the thing arrived and ask if they will refund you, because given that history they might be erring on the side of generous when it comes to bad motherboards.
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Apr 4, 2024 18:18
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Butterfly Valley posted:It's from Newegg right? They recently went through a scandal where they were selling second hand damaged and RMAed boards as new and then refusing refunds, which caused prominent tech community figures to rake them over the coals for it. They've been doing this poo poo for 20+ years now. My wife built her first PC in 2003. She ordered a CPU from them, along with a few other parts. We'd noticed that the seal on the box had been broken and the contents were a little messier than what we expected from a new retail box, but everything was there, so we didn't think too much about it. She assembled the PC, with me assisting, and the machine wouldn't POST. After some troubleshooting with some spare parts, we determined the CPU was DOA. We examined it and saw nothing wrong -- no bent pins or anything. We RMAed it, and they refused the refund, saying there were "scorch marks" on the CPU. Oh, and they kept the CPU despite denying the refund. We bought an identical CPU from another vendor, and everything worked perfectly. I've built at least a dozen PCs since then and haven't given them any more business. I wonder how many thousands of dollars they've lost just from me, over a ~$160 CPU. Edit: Ugh, sorry for the derail, forgot this was the PC building thread.
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Apr 4, 2024 18:35
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Jeremor posted:https://ibb.co/f9tnJSt I think the tolerances on those connecting pins is just super precise, and that one got properly mangled. I wonder if you took it to a jeweler they might have the right dexterity, magnifying glass, and tool to bend them back into place. Still may not work though, and might end up costing more than the board anyways. I feel like you would definitely have noticed your oopsie if you were the ones that bent the contacts - this looks like somebody dropped the CPU onto the socket as they were moving it into place, or severely mishandled it while the plastic cover was off of it.
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Apr 4, 2024 19:55
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just demand a replacement from Newegg lol the company holds you in the same regard as you do a speck of lint on your coat or whatever, say it came like that and see what they say
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Apr 4, 2024 19:57
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I've been posting about my "noisy PSU" drama. 2 different Corsair RM750s, an NZXT 1200C (all RMAd), and a Silverstone Hella 850R. All were making coil whine/squeaking noise, and eventually I thought maybe it's actually the motherboard. Well, it was. The ASUS Prime B650M-A WiFi II is the guilty bastard. I got a new Gigabyte Aorus Elite AX today in a last gasp, and it it fine. No noise from the PSU (or anything really) So, yes, a lovely motherboard can definitely make a PSU squeal. Or 4 different PSUs for that matter. I have a few rather negative Amazon reviews to edit lol. Nearly a month of this poo poo, loving hell. Last night I happened across a review of 35(!) different B650 boards by Hardware Unboxed/Tech Powerup. The only board they really laid into was mine (and its variants) due to having VRMs that were reading at over 105c. Most of the others are between 60 and 70 for comparison. Soon as I saw that I stuck the noisy PSU in a box for a moment to silence it, and listened to the motherboard. Now that it wasn't being covered by the PSU racket, I could hear a similar-ish high frequency sound from the (hot as gently caress) power stage. Seems that's what it was all along. A lovely cheap VRM/caps loving with the PSU. Mystery solved, what a roller coaster of shite it has been. I was even considering returning it all and getting a pre-built at points. lmao
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Apr 4, 2024 20:41
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Can I use one power cable to feed both of my pcie connections on my GPU? Or should this be two separate cables? 
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Apr 4, 2024 22:59
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YerDa Zabam posted:Mystery solved, what a roller coaster of shite it has been. I was even considering returning it all and getting a pre-built at points. lmao I feel your pain. Some years back I built a PC that had a serious problem and the motherboard ended up being the culprit. But I spent a LOT of time and money figuring that out. Once it was fixed I ended up using that PC for the next 8 years because I was so afraid of going through that again with a new build. Motherboard issues are the worst.
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Apr 4, 2024 23:01
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Dr. Fraiser Chain posted:Can I use one power cable to feed both of my pcie connections on my GPU? Or should this be two separate cables? I've done both and had no issues with either. wash bucket posted:I feel your pain. Some years back I built a PC that had a serious problem and the motherboard ended up being the culprit. But I spent a LOT of time and money figuring that out. Once it was fixed I ended up using that PC for the next 8 years because I was so afraid of going through that again with a new build. Motherboard issues are the worst. Thanks :-) Yeah it was really beginning to sap my confidence in the whole thing. I was "modding" C64s and had my first custom gaming PC built around 2000, but this had me second guessing everything I was doing (or maybe not) New case comes tomorrow. I think I may have managed to buy the last Fractal North (dark) in the UK so that will be nice. Getting it all off of my makeshift bench setup will make it even quieter (and safer) too. Now that I think about it, I got the case from Quiet PC (not that it's really a quiet case) and they sold me my first "custom" PC component back in 2001. It was a Zalman CPU cooler. Not the flower type one, an earlier one. Holy poo poo though, what a difference it made compared to whatever delta screamer was clamped on the (I guess) Pentium 4 that was in it. YerDa Zabam fucked around with this message at 23:43 on Apr 4, 2024 |
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Apr 4, 2024 23:29
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Dr. Fraiser Chain posted:Can I use one power cable to feed both of my pcie connections on my GPU? Or should this be two separate cables? This is fine for any reasonably good quality PSU.
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Apr 4, 2024 23:51
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Hey thread, just purchased an eATX mobo and all the fixins to put together a new tower, but I still need a case. Is there a standard recommendation for this size?
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Apr 5, 2024 15:08
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Many more cases fit eATX boards nowadays so it is less of a specialty list sort of thing. Have a look at whatever you like the look of and make sure it is compatible, maybe double check with check a review or two and ask specifics here and you should be good to go. Id pay as much attention to what else you want to put into it, such as water cooling, multiple gpus, loads of hard drives or, idk loads of fans or something, or none of the above. As an example, I just got a Fractal North (literally about an hour away from the door atm, yahoo) which is a very mid-sized, standard sort of box and it is speced for eATX, (though it would be tight-ish I guess). There's a newer "XL" version that will of course take eATX too, but with more room to work, and will also fit more/bigger radiators or whatever bits you have. Now, I seem to remember that "eATX" isn't an actual standard as such, so if you've got some exotic dual cpu server jobbie, then make sure of the actual measurements. In fact, it might not do any harm to make sure anyway. YerDa Zabam fucked around with this message at 15:50 on Apr 5, 2024 |
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Apr 5, 2024 15:42
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Gunshow Poophole posted:just demand a replacement from Newegg lol the company holds you in the same regard as you do a speck of lint on your coat or whatever, say it came like that and see what they say This… if you can’t very clearly remember doing it, then you should immediately send it back. Hint: you can’t clearly remember doing it
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Apr 5, 2024 16:05
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I got this with my graphics card. Is it so large I should have this thing holding it up in the case? What the hell is it
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Apr 6, 2024 20:04
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Dr. Fraiser Chain posted:I got this with my graphics card. Is it so large I should have this thing holding it up in the case? What the hell is it It’s a mounting bracket and I’d just use it. These newer cards are pretty heavy and since you have one there’s no reason not to just use it.
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Apr 6, 2024 20:09
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That's a GPU support and, yeah, they're big and heavy enough these days that it's not a bad idea to brace them to keep them from sagging e:f,b
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Apr 6, 2024 20:10
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You only need one of the small horizontal bits. The other one is if you have 2 gpus. I got a similar one with my Gainward card and that bit confused me a bit They do look a bit cheapo, but if you have a 3 or 4 slot card they are worth using. I was amazed at how much mine was sagging. lmao There are better looking (and performing) ones that uou can buy for 20 bux or so. I think they are usually called "hidden" or "secret" brackets. They bolt into the motherboard standoffs, or the rear pcie slors Here's a rather bombastic video showing how these budget frebiee ones work. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0knLe3MDzT8 YerDa Zabam fucked around with this message at 20:35 on Apr 6, 2024 |
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Apr 6, 2024 20:31
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Alright thanks for all the help here is the final: PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D 4.2 GHz 8-Core Processor ($389.99 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($33.90 @ Amazon) Motherboard: ASRock B650M-HDV/M.2 Micro ATX AM5 Motherboard ($119.99 @ Amazon) Memory: Corsair Vengeance 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory ($114.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Samsung 980 Pro 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($166.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: PowerColor Hellhound Radeon RX 7900 XT 20 GB Video Card ($749.99 @ Amazon) Case: Fractal Design North ATX Mid Tower Case ($139.99 @ B&H) Power Supply: Corsair RM750e (2023) 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($99.99 @ Amazon) Total: $1815.83 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-04-06 16:37 EDT-0400 Our something close. I just micro centered this thing except for CPU fan which I bought online.   Turned on and worked with no returns.
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Apr 6, 2024 21:40
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^^^ Nice. I just finished putting all my bits into the North case today as well. Classy looker. I feel like I should be smoking cigars and sipping whisky. I got another fan for the top, just the same as the front ones, but I'm not sure it really needed it what with being so perforated. Only £12, so no biggie. I wasn't sure if the power led strip was meant to be sort of gradual, or if it hadn't been fitted evenly, yet still managed to look nice, but now that I see yours I see it is actually a feature. Found an image that explains those holder things better. That's not even a big one by current standards. The image was on an actual Amazon product page lol 
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Apr 6, 2024 22:23
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Dr. Fraiser Chain posted:Alright thanks for all the help here is the final: You should be using the top PCI-E 16x slot for your card, not the bottom one. Your GPU is so close to the shroud that it's going to limit the air the fans intake and make the card run hotter.
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Apr 7, 2024 03:09
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Also the bottom slot is only wired to x4 bandwidth instead of the full x16, which will negatively affect performance to a small degree.
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Apr 7, 2024 03:30
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Guess I'll move the card! Thanks everyone
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Apr 7, 2024 07:19
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What country are you in?  Do you live near Microcenter? YES What are you using the system for? Gaming/office/shitposting mainly, but there is a nonzero chance I might need some advanced scientific software What's your budget? - 1500 ish USD If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution / refresh rate? I have no idea. I'll grab a new monitor eventually, but that's a problem for another day. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D 4.2 GHz 8-Core Processor ($499.99) CPU Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($33.90 @ Amazon) Motherboard: Gigabyte B650 GAMING X AX ATX AM5 Motherboard ($0.00) Memory: G.Skill Trident Z5 RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL36 Memory ($0.00) Storage: Crucial P3 Plus 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($129.99) Case: Montech AIR 903 MAX ATX Mid Tower Case ($79.99) Power Supply: Thermaltake Toughpower GF A3 ATX 3.0 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 11 Home OEM - DVD 64-bit ($20.00) Total: $853.86 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-04-08 16:02 EDT-0400 Everything is from Microcenter if not otherwise specified. Keeping with my 1500 budget, I got around 600 bucks to play with for a GPU. I keep waffling between the 7900 GRE and the 4070 Super If I ever get the 75 bucks owed to me from someone else, I'll probably upgrade to a 4TB SSD as well.
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Apr 8, 2024 21:12
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Nissin Cup Nudist posted:What country are you in? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tFKhlplCNpM
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Apr 8, 2024 21:45
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so basically a push at base settings, but 4070 is better with fancy upscaling and such?
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Apr 8, 2024 23:36
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Nissin Cup Nudist posted:there is a nonzero chance I might need some advanced scientific software Does any of that software work better with nvidia or amd maybe? Will you be using linux with the software? That can have a bearing too sometimes.
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Apr 8, 2024 23:53
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Nissin Cup Nudist posted:so basically a push at base settings, but 4070 is better with fancy upscaling and such? More or less; it's been like that since the OG 4070 vs. the 7800XT. It really depends on how much you want DLSS3, ray tracing, and a few other nice features. DLSS3 is the absolute best upscaling in the industry right now, to be fair, so if you want to game in "4K" it can be really worth it.
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Apr 9, 2024 00:36
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YerDa Zabam posted:Does any of that software work better with nvidia or amd maybe? I dunno. I'm in the final stages of the job hunt and while I dont think I need fancy (home use) molecular modeling stuff atm, it could always change in the future SpaceDrake posted:More or less; it's been like that since the OG 4070 vs. the 7800XT. It really depends on how much you want DLSS3, ray tracing, and a few other nice features. DLSS3 is the absolute best upscaling in the industry right now, to be fair, so if you want to game in "4K" it can be really worth it. I've never been a big frames at all cost guy, I think competent 1440p performance should be good enough for me
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Apr 9, 2024 01:15
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Thinking about upgrading from 16gb ram to 32gb. Running a system with the amd 5800x3d cpu. I guess I'd want to overclock it to coax out a little extra performance? But nothing crazy. Anything in particular I should be looking at with that in mind, and with a decent price-performace ratio?
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Apr 9, 2024 13:07
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