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They like to watch, in dark rooms.
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# ? Apr 7, 2024 21:20 |
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# ? Jun 3, 2024 22:28 |
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I figured they were sci fi faeires or something
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# ? Apr 7, 2024 22:59 |
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That's what Jawas are.
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# ? Apr 7, 2024 23:00 |
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I like the bit about demons being scared as hell of them.
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# ? Apr 8, 2024 03:45 |
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Super Waffle posted:I like the bit about demons being scared as hell of them. this correctly implies that C-3PO is a demon
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# ? Apr 8, 2024 03:54 |
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great big cardboard tube posted:Super long and not informative post, tl;dr is if you want to help me out look at my list and tell me if I'm stupid or could make better choices. So pretty close now to mashing the "place your order" button in a couple tabs from a couple stores after adjusting for what you all kindly suggested. Got slightly pricier but Im planning on taking my time using this to relax over many many hours so that's fine if I enjoy it more. Tamiya 74123 clippers instead of random ones. Junk bulk brushes, the old Vallejo paint set and overpriced GW washes out. I'm leaning towards just using monument gaming for all the paints and washes and brushes after seeing good reviews and realizing I can get 15% off individuals if I order in batches and I can just skip the colors I'm not planning on using for the dominion models for now. And y'know they're already released. Is this brush set decent value or a gouge? I do feel like I need a couple big cheap brushes I can ruin drybrushing and slopping on base texture with and then a few different sizes to try out actually painting again. And a ton of their brushes are just sold out, idk if that's a good or bad sign. Also I keep hearing their pro acryl white is the best out there but is there any particular color they suck at and I should find another brand for or are they just universally pretty good? great big cardboard tube fucked around with this message at 14:05 on Apr 8, 2024 |
# ? Apr 8, 2024 13:58 |
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great big cardboard tube posted:So pretty close now to mashing the "place your order" button in a couple tabs from a couple stores after adjusting for what you all kindly suggested. Got slightly pricier but Im planning on taking my time using this to relax over many many hours so that's fine if I enjoy it more. It's slightly less expensive than buying the two good brushes there (the sable ones) but realistically you can do a lot of work with just the #3 brush of theirs and cut out the really tiny one. And yeah the big cheap brushes can be bought in bulk at an art store, Michaels or hobby lobby. Look at brushes meant for classrooms as they come in a box of 100 for like $10 and they're meant to be destroyed by kids using them for swordfights.
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# ? Apr 8, 2024 14:42 |
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Spanish Manlove posted:It's slightly less expensive than buying the two good brushes there (the sable ones) but realistically you can do a lot of work with just the #3 brush of theirs and cut out the really tiny one. And yeah the big cheap brushes can be bought in bulk at an art store, Michaels or hobby lobby. Look at brushes meant for classrooms as they come in a box of 100 for like $10 and they're meant to be destroyed by kids using them for swordfights. Yeah buying a box of 100 "Scholastic" brushes from Dick Blick was such a good move. I use them for all kinds of stuff, applying glue, bulk washes, texture paints, you can even cut them short and use them for dry brushing and stippling.
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# ? Apr 8, 2024 15:06 |
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great big cardboard tube posted:Also I keep hearing their pro acryl white is the best out there but is there any particular color they suck at and I should find another brand for or are they just universally pretty good? Pro Acryl and Two Thin Coats famously do not sell a bad bottle of paint. The only paints that come with caveats from Pro Acryl are some of the influencer sets, and that is because some of them are unusual (eg super matte, translucent) and not because they are flawed.
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# ? Apr 8, 2024 18:58 |
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A friend of mine gave me the special Kasrkin sergeant model as a present. I decided to give him a small team to lead as well, using unused prototypes for veteran/stormtrooper kitbashes I had laying around. The sergeant model is really cool, though I hosed up his face a bit. My highlights got too thich, so he looks like a burn victim now. Trying to paint good-looking camouflage was a lot of fun. I'm really happy with the results, though this five man squad took me a whole month to finish, at 1+ hours a night. Closeup of the rest of the team here: https://imgur.com/gallery/0m2FibC
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# ? Apr 8, 2024 19:45 |
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My 40k challenge is to get the 4000 (at current MFM count) points of full conversion army I have painted by the end of the year. I think I've settled on the paint scheme for my vehicles - after a bunch of trial and error attempts to get it right - and I have my first squadron of walkers almost finished. I hadn't picked up a paintbrush in over a decade before the new year and I'm just starting to feel like the rust is getting shaken off my technique, though things like faces and very fine details are still tricky for me. Fortunately these don't really have any of that to worry about.
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# ? Apr 8, 2024 20:34 |
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great big cardboard tube posted:
Pro Acryl are a pretty great range and as someone else said, they don’t make anything that people tell others to avoid, benefits of being a new player, and with a limited range that came out from feedback over many years. One weird thing that I found out recently, monument hobbies has a discord filled with painters helping each other out, and answering questions, so if you end up going that route, you may find it very helpful!
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# ? Apr 8, 2024 21:01 |
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Roller Coast Guard posted:My 40k challenge is to get the 4000 (at current MFM count) points of full conversion army I have painted by the end of the year. I think I've settled on the paint scheme for my vehicles - after a bunch of trial and error attempts to get it right - and I have my first squadron of walkers almost finished. That paint scheme and graphic design element really give those buggers a lot of personality.
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# ? Apr 8, 2024 21:33 |
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Getting back into painting after a brief lacuna. I'd bought a box of Wargames Atlantic skeletons because I wanted to see how their plastic kits are (And If I hate them, then well, at least I got a bunch bones to use in bases), and the expansion to Mörk Boll has a solo mode against a team of skeletons, so... Here's Dawnblight United.
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# ? Apr 8, 2024 23:17 |
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Painting thread, I have a kitbashing question for any AoS Cities of Sigmar fans: I have a reoccurring intrusive idea to use a freeguild cavalier torso, arms and head with some sort of foot soldier legs to make a custom marshal or arch-knight, or maybe just as a funzie unique foot knight model. Problem is, I can't seem to find any lower bodies that look right. Closest I've come in scale are the chaos warrior bodies, but I'm not psyched for all the chaos markings I'd have to file and scrape off. Has anyone done this successfully? If so, what legs worked? Any suggestions would be welcome, and I'll be sure to post progress shots of whatever trainwreck of a model comes from this. Edited to add: I'm fine cutting and using green stuff to make a good fit, I just can't find anything that's scaled quite right. Morality_Police fucked around with this message at 00:11 on Apr 9, 2024 |
# ? Apr 9, 2024 00:07 |
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great big cardboard tube posted:AoS dominion: $104 on Amazon tons of minis will last me up to months of painting if I stick at it and I know there's a local scene for AoS and I'm interested in both platemail boys and orc nonsense. Thanks for the tip. Not that my backlog needed it, but the Dominion box for a hundred bux was too good to pass up. They must be clearing out inventory before the new AoS edition and starter set comes out.
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# ? Apr 9, 2024 00:52 |
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Bark! A Vagrant posted:Thanks for the tip. Not that my backlog needed it, but the Dominion box for a hundred bux was too good to pass up. They must be clearing out inventory before the new AoS edition and starter set comes out. It's been about that low for some time. It was massively over-produced.
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# ? Apr 9, 2024 00:53 |
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First impressions from the Warpaints: Fanatic range. They have a lot of colors, which is nice. The metallic I used today was really nice and smooth, really happy with that. Painted a miniature using a lighter green, medium green, and medium brown paint. Coverage was OK, but it didn't seem to be as fantastic as they were trying to portray on their social media. I do think that you won't need 4 or 5 coats like you might for some GW paints, but it is not a single coat paint as they were implying. Will give an update after I try a few more colors.
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# ? Apr 9, 2024 03:36 |
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Can I get some advice on the creation and use of sprue goo? I have some extra Citadel plastic glue now that I bought some Tamiya and naturally I have oodles of sprues.
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# ? Apr 9, 2024 04:00 |
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SuperKlaus posted:Can I get some advice on the creation and use of sprue goo? I have some extra Citadel plastic glue now that I bought some Tamiya and naturally I have oodles of sprues. put about 3 cm of cut up sprues in the acetone, wait overnight. look how thick it is by testing it on whatever thing you're willing to throw away, if it's not thick enough then add more until it's to your liking
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# ? Apr 9, 2024 04:15 |
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Also just got a set (the 50 paint mega) of Army Painter Fanatic. It was late so I mostly used it to color the dropper tops, but did splash a little on a test model. Initial impressions are it does mostly live up to the marketing; good coverage even over black primer, the paints were very consistent out of the bottle, and you can get it quite thin without the pigment getting weird although you'd probably need to juice it with some acrylic medium to get it translucent enough to be a glaze due to the pigment density. The regular colors dried matte to satin-matte (honestly I'm not a real stickler over this since I matte varnish anyways). However I did find even the bright colors are just a little desaturated; more akin to a Vallejo Model Color. So if you want real punchy color you'd possibly need to go over with a bright Speedpaint, ink, or just a more saturated acrylic. The metallics were underwhelming, even the silver when I generally like the old Warpaint plate mail silver I've got.
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# ? Apr 9, 2024 12:30 |
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First model for my Onepagerules Vampiric Undead force done!
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# ? Apr 9, 2024 14:27 |
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Spanish Manlove posted:put about 3 cm of cut up sprues in the acetone, wait overnight. look how thick it is by testing it on whatever thing you're willing to throw away, if it's not thick enough then add more until it's to your liking Thank you. I can keep this stuff in the plastic glue's bottle, right?
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# ? Apr 9, 2024 17:01 |
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SuperKlaus posted:Thank you. I can keep this stuff in the plastic glue's bottle, right? Yep
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# ? Apr 9, 2024 17:11 |
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Count Thrashula posted:First model for my Onepagerules Vampiric Undead force done! Rules! Great model and a really atmospheric paint job. Is that an opr print?
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# ? Apr 9, 2024 20:06 |
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The Tamiya plastic cement is a game changer compared to the Citadel glue I've been using. Unfortunately it smells like gasoline and requires double container storage, but its so easy to use and I've yet to have any of that annoying stringy residue found with the Citadel brand. VVV I have a very sensitive nose!!!! Cardboard Fox fucked around with this message at 20:57 on Apr 9, 2024 |
# ? Apr 9, 2024 20:42 |
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Cardboard Fox posted:The Tamiya plastic cement is a game changer compared to the Citadel glue I've been using. Unfortunately it smells like gasoline and requires double container storage, but its so easy to use and I've yet to have any of that annoying stringy residue found with the Citadel brand. it's stinky but not two container stinky edit: what's a good CA glue because mine sucks
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# ? Apr 9, 2024 20:48 |
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Ominous Jazz posted:it's stinky but not two container stinky Bob Smith Industries is quite good, they have a large selection of types. Starbond is pretty decent as well, and might be easier to find in certain markets. Anything's better than Zap-A-Gap brand though. Never had a bottle of that stuff last more than a few months, even unopened.
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# ? Apr 9, 2024 21:51 |
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I find gorilla glue thick great. And loctite thin.
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# ? Apr 9, 2024 22:23 |
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i use the blue capped gorilla glue and have 0 issues with it. in fact, i tried temp gluing some arms on with the super glue and accidentally used too much and now theyre permanent
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# ? Apr 9, 2024 22:56 |
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Gorilla glue really does not seem to stick to 3d printed resin. I like getting the packets of 6 tiny tubes of "Future Glue" gel, it seems to work better and the tiny tubes are a good size for assembling one or two things at a time.
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# ? Apr 9, 2024 23:07 |
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Kylaer posted:Gorilla glue really does not seem to stick to 3d printed resin. I like getting the packets of 6 tiny tubes of "Future Glue" gel, it seems to work better and the tiny tubes are a good size for assembling one or two things at a time. I don't think I've found a CA glue yet that isn't frustrating as gently caress to use on resin prints. My current strategy is to hope and pray with one part in a helping hand thing, the other part in tweezers, and then quickly adding a drop of accelerator
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# ? Apr 10, 2024 00:16 |
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Beffer posted:Rules! Great model and a really atmospheric paint job. Is that an opr print? Thanks! The model is from OPR but I printed it at home
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# ? Apr 10, 2024 00:25 |
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Painted a few more Legions Imperialis scale things.
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# ? Apr 10, 2024 00:37 |
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SuperKlaus posted:Can I get some advice on the creation and use of sprue goo? I have some extra Citadel plastic glue now that I bought some Tamiya and naturally I have oodles of sprues. Don't. It's a super destructive solution () in search of a problem. If that does not deter you, it is goopy gap filler that is a nightmare to smooth while wet and can cause very obtrusive melt, fingerprint, or tool damage. The chief benefit of it is that it dries to actual styrene plastic, indistinguishable from (moderately distressed) original plastic. If you are regularly filling gaps on plastic kits and it's not a problem that can be solved with clamping, sprue glue is the only solution that can bridge the gap with actual plastic, and the only filler that serves as an effective cement. To make sprue glue, you take a pot of thin plastic cement (or just a very small container of bulk solvent that dissolves HIPS) and toss some sprue in there. Not much, it's easier to add more than dilute. Ramp up the raw plastic until you have a consistency you like. You already know what solvent-melted plastic is like so you're just shooting for your own Goldilocks consistency. You use that to fill gaps in all-plastic models. Ideally before assembly rather than as spackle-like filler. Less is more, this stuff oozing out will gently caress you in new surprising ways. You can shave and sand it when it is fully dry because it is just HIPS plastic at that point. That's it, that's all there is to know.
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# ? Apr 10, 2024 00:55 |
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Cardboard Fox posted:I'm trying to figure out if there's something wrong with my Vallejo Game Color batch. Some of the colors don't seem to want to play well with becoming a shade or glaze. If I add a single brush load of water, the pigment in the paint begins to almost dissolve? BTW if anyone else is having this problem with Vallejo Game Color: I fixed it. The issue is with my wet pallet. It has wayyyy too much water in it. Using a new pallet that doesn't have traces of water droplets everywhere solved the paint splitting issues.
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# ? Apr 10, 2024 01:42 |
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Cardboard Fox posted:BTW if anyone else is having this problem with Vallejo Game Color: I fixed it. Before you put paint on the palette, did you wipe off the excess water on top of the paper?
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# ? Apr 10, 2024 01:47 |
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Spanish Manlove posted:Before you put paint on the palette, did you wipe off the excess water on top of the paper? No since I just assumed I would use it to thin the paints, but this is Vallejo we're talking about, which doesn't require much thinning. With the new palette, I make sure there's no additional water on the paper.
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# ? Apr 10, 2024 02:12 |
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Cardboard Fox posted:No since I just assumed I would use it to thin the paints, but this is Vallejo we're talking about, which doesn't require much thinning. eh, that's not usually part of the instructions on how to use one so it's understandable. I recall making that mistake once or twice, happens to everyone. Also be careful with how much water the sponge has, it's really easy to forget to check it during a long painting session and then wonder "why are my paints drying out so quickly on here" then realize there's no water for the sponge.
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# ? Apr 10, 2024 03:03 |
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# ? Jun 3, 2024 22:28 |
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Crosspostin'Safety Factor posted:
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# ? Apr 10, 2024 14:22 |