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Am I correct in thinking that having MoCA encryption/filters is unnecessary in a standalone suburban house? Just set up a 2-box network using the existing coax runs in my house and it has been the very definition of plug-and-play. Went from 250mbs down on 5G wi-fi to 950mbs down using the adapters. Rock-solid connection too. Do I need to worry about turning on MPS and what not? I looked into it a bit and it sounds like a hassle to set up on these ScreenBeam adapters.
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# ? May 21, 2024 11:46 |
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Cross-Section posted:Am I correct in thinking that having MoCA encryption/filters is unnecessary in a standalone suburban house? If your coax connection to outside is connected, I'd put a filter there IMO.
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Cross-Section posted:Am I correct in thinking that having MoCA encryption/filters is unnecessary in a standalone suburban house? Is your coaxial run connected to the street? Are you certain? You can hide splitters anywhere. If so you need filters. Period. It's a bus network and any neighbor within range with a moca adapter will wind up on your network or causing problems. If you aren't using the catv line from the street at all just go unhook it. Bingo bango air gap filtering.
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H110Hawk posted:Is your coaxial run connected to the street? Are you certain? You can hide splitters anywhere. If so you need filters. Period. It's a bus network and any neighbor within range with a moca adapter will wind up on your network or causing problems. If you aren't using the catv line from the street at all just go unhook it. Bingo bango air gap filtering. The latter option is fine with me since we don't have cable TV anymore. I ambled over to the side of my house, unscrewed/yanked off the panel so helpfully marked "Television" and unscrewed the cables on the left from the below splitters. I have no clue where these cables actually run to but would I be correct in assuming at least one of them runs out to the green cable box next to the street? Or should I just unscrew all of them to be safe? ![]()
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That's impressive. I would tape and number left/right in case you need to put any back, but if you get in there one should disappear into a cavity that isn't your house, likely "down", and the rest will go elsewhere. That's the one. Otherwise yeah just keep unscrewing. You might wind up killing your moca connection which may run through there, this is when you need to do troubleshooting on combining them back together and why you should really find the one from the street. Put your phone on wifi, disable mobile data. Fire up a streaming app. If it cuts out you got the wrong one. Assuming your wifi is on the other side of the moca from the router. If it's not, zoom from the desktop to the phone with a screen share that's moving (YouTube). Same test. You can also just go to the street box, if there's only 2 connections you can just unscrew the one that goes to your house. If you can't tell ask your neighbor if they have internet or TV via. <spectrum|xfinity>, if no unscrew both. If yes ask if you can coin toss their internet down. Unscrew one, have em go to a website or fire up Netflix.
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This thing is super handy for figuring out where all the connections go and labeling them: Klein Tools VDV512-101 Explorer 2 Coax Tester Kit, Includes Cable Tester / Wire Tracer / Coax Mapper with Remotes to Test up to 4 Locations https://a.co/d/6Yic0pc
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H110Hawk posted:That's impressive. I would tape and number left/right in case you need to put any back, but if you get in there one should disappear into a cavity that isn't your house, likely "down", and the rest will go elsewhere. That's the one. Otherwise yeah just keep unscrewing. You might wind up killing your moca connection which may run through there, this is when you need to do troubleshooting on combining them back together and why you should really find the one from the street. I did some more finagling around (and did actually end up finding my moca cable connected on that bottom splitter). The rest of the coax cables connected to the splitters run up and out. There are three conduits coming out of the ground; two resolve to cables that run through the compartment and into the garage, but third ends in this: ![]() ... which was already disconnected from anything but said after-mentioned cable coming out of the ground. Mission accomplished, I guess? (read: am too chickenshit to run out to the street and mess with city property lol)
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The thick cable with the chunky connector on it will be the one from the street
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Now that I'm thinking about it, our previous TV cable setup worked through a coax port on a Verizon-provided router (and I remember the set-top boxes would show up in the router dashboard) so it might have not even been using the street hookup in the first place? Well, at least I got a little refresher on my home's communications infrastructure lol, thanks everyone! Cross-Section fucked around with this message at 19:30 on Apr 13, 2024 |
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Cross-Section posted:(read: am too chickenshit to run out to the street and mess with city property lol) Now now, that is government grant private monopoly property unless your city owns the local cable TV company. gently caress em. And yeah Verizon TV would have been fios. Fiber internet. Perfecto.
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i needed a filter in front of my cable modem because i guess that particular model gets weird when there is a moca adapter present. i put another one where the wire came into the house just as cheap insurance for the dang college kids living near me. who knows what theyre up to.
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H110Hawk posted:They're the feed through connectors where the crimper cuts them off. I guess there could be some kind of poor cut on the end I need to trim. I didn't have much time to troubleshoot this morning. Well it was this. The 3 wires I tested had poorly cut feed through. Potentially coupled with the panel being stp or something. I swapped it for a utp panel from the same cheap brand testing a couple of still loose wires - worked great. Put it in, test the wire I had issues with before which I had already zip tied in place and nope. Finally looked at the end and saw like 1mm of cat6 wires sticking out. Patched in about 8 more cables, only 12 more to go! Also the coaxial keystone I bought for the old patch panel doesn't fit in this one. Welp. Internet is up, u6-lite has taken over the wifi, and I setup a guest network w/ isolation on it to take over the eero network. Setup the eero to be a bogus name and very long password. ![]()
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Hello, I'd like some hints from people with knowledge in running low specs pc as opnsense. I'm currently assessing moving from my current 1000/100 ftth line to 10000/2000 but the isp provided modem for that offering is absolute poo poo (sagemcom f@st 5688). Other common models of sfp+ or 10gbase routers sold in my area like udm pros or qnaps have a bad rep on running faster than 2.5g. What is lowest i can go in processing power to manage 10g routing, an handful of firewall rules and port forwarding along 150mbps+ of wireguard? I would need two 10g ports, one terminated in copper (ISP ONT) and one in optical (switch uplink), so it would need at least four if not eight pcie lanes. Any experiences?
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My attempt to homebrew a pfSense continues. I have a dual-NIC mini PC that has one WAN port and one LAN port. On the LAN port I have tagged VLANs A and B, where A is management and B is (ideally) going to serve a VPN out over the WAN port to anything behind it via Network Manager. The problem is that I’ve gone with Ubuntu Server to have full control over firewalling and run headless, so I don’t get a nice little GUI toggle to do this for me. Is there an nmcli incantation that will let me share the VLAN B connection into a switch with a few access ports? Can I even run a VLAN “object” as an IPv4 sharing device, or does that only work via the physical interface?
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A internet speed testing website that, at least in my experinence gets better speeds, is Tele2's speedtest. And the bufferbloat test probably also needs to be mentioned. If anyone's using iperf, be aware that version 2 and version 3 are not equivalent - version 2 uses multithreading, version 3 uses singlethreading. You kinda need both.
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Vanilla OpenWRT on an Aruba AP-303H e: This is not safe. There is some partition or volume info that is being lost, and it may brick your device. I'll know for sure once I un-brick mine. Before you start, be aware that a random TTL FTDI serial cable will probably not work on these Aruba APs. I have a serial cable that works fine on my Raspberry Pi, but it would not work with the AP-303H. It will receive console output, but fails to transmit, so you can't type anything. Either buy the official $35 Aruba console cable (no), or this $18 knockoff. At least the knockoff cable costs less than the used access point. OpenWRT: AP-303H install instructions. Here's my variation, which overwrites all Aruba code on the NAND flash, so OpenWRT can use the whole 128MB. Assume you will never be able to go back to the Aruba software, unless you backup your flash before doing this install. The OEM bootloader and other low-level stuff lives on a separate NOR flash chip, which we will not be touching. So you should always be able to get back to the apboot> prompt and boot off your tftp server. I don't think you can brick the AP even if you screw up a command, or cut power in the middle of flashing, etc. Change the kernel command line to override the flash partition definition in the DeviceTree .dts. This just changed how the OpenWRT kernel sees the flash chip, it doesn't modify any data on it. code:
Boot up OpenWRT initramfs image off your tftp server and format the flash. This is the step that destroys all the Aruba data. You can back it up first with dd. code:
The Aruba bootloader (which resides in a different, smaller flash chip) will be pissed that we overwrote the Aruba partitions. But after some complaining, it does find the OpenWRT kernel and jump to it. code:
code:
I'm going to set this up as garage wifi, with an ip camera hanging off the downstream PoE port. These access points were originally designed for hotel rooms, so there is PoE lan port for a phone. I also want a motion detector connected to the USB port. Normally the AP-303H does not allow both downstream PoE and USB unless it is running off a wall adapter. I guess the combined power requirements put it over the upstream 802.3at 30W limit. However, my USB device is quite low power, as is the IP camera. And I think I just deleted the Aruba code that enforces that limitation, heh. ryanrs fucked around with this message at 06:54 on Apr 19, 2024 |
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Arson Daily posted:i needed a filter in front of my cable modem because i guess that particular model gets weird when there is a moca adapter present. i put another one where the wire came into the house just as cheap insurance for the dang college kids living near me. who knows what theyre up to. Interesting; I have an Arris S33 but no filter on it. Then again, the CATV run from Comcast goes only to my modem and nowhere else -- Coax in the house I just have wired up to an antenna / my own distribution amplifier, so I don't have any MoCA filters installed.
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movax posted:Interesting; I have an Arris S33 but no filter on it. Then again, the CATV run from Comcast goes only to my modem and nowhere else -- Coax in the house I just have wired up to an antenna / my own distribution amplifier, so I don't have any MoCA filters installed. If there is no physical connection between the two bus's then you don't need any filtering.
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ryanrs posted:Aruba AP Flashing Very cool, thanks for sharing! How did you wind up getting your hands on one of these APs? They seem pretty targeted at the hotel/hospitality industry, and I’m guessing aren’t sold direct to consumers. Second hand off a client or something like that? eBay?
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chocolateTHUNDER posted:How did you wind up getting your hands on one of these APs? They seem pretty targeted at the hotel/hospitality industry, and I’m guessing aren’t sold direct to consumers. Second hand off a client or something like that? eBay? Ebay search: AP-303H. They go for $20-40, depending on if you want cords and the plastic wall bracket or desk mount. You're right, it's a weird niche device. But it means you get PoE (not present on home routers), and 3 lan ports (not present on enterprise APs). A USB port for a peripheral, like a microcontroller or USB stick or a printer, etc. Clean case not bristling with antennas. Fairly small. Good build quality. But $20/ea is what seals the deal. Especially if you want to mess around with mesh networking or something where you want a bunch of 'em. e: lmao Aruba is still selling these new. Buy one at Office Depot for $542. ryanrs fucked around with this message at 01:02 on Apr 19, 2024 |
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yeah, I like the UniFi in-wall APs because they’re POE, have 3 gigabit ports (one with POE itself!) and hide in the wall plate. They are not $20 though, that’s for sure.
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I just got write access to the OpenWrt wiki, so all this info will find its way there in a few days. Hopefully I'll make it easier for people to put these devices to use. They are not the newest tech, but they can still be useful.
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yeah i never needed a filter otherwise. idk what caused the interference but the filter got everything working great
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So this is an odd one but my wife has health anxiety and has asked me to block Google and reddit on her phone so she stops googling herself into panic attacks. I'm thinking the best way to do this is by creating a custom DNS server of some sort (pi-hole?) and blocking those domains on there, and just pointing her iPhone at the custom DNS server. Are there premade solutions out there? Like a little service I can sign up for that will provide the DNS server out of the box and let me just specify a few domains to block? I'd rather not have to deal with getting a static IP set up at home or whatever I'd have to do to keep the DNS server address consistent. And I'd want it to work when her phone is on any network, as well. Am I overthinking this?
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Check out NextDNS.
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Internet Explorer posted:Check out NextDNS. Well that looks just about goddamn perfect, thank you.
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You're welcome! I'm a big fan. Good luck.
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Subjunctive posted:yeah, I like the UniFi in-wall APs because they’re POE, have 3 gigabit ports (one with POE itself!) and hide in the wall plate. They are not $20 though, that’s for sure. ![]() ![]()
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Please let me know if this is more of a layer 1/2 thread than higher up. I've made progress on my Network Manager based gateway / firewall, but I can't figure out how to make the VPN fail closed since nmcli treats Wireguard as different from all other VPN types. Am I stuck using OpenVPN or something older so I can designate a secondary object? I tried not having a default route through the main WAN and making routes that only populated when the VPN was up, but that must have been wrong as the connectivity didn't survive a reboot. Is firewalling done through Network Manager or do I still need iptables?
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Ha ha ha, oops. I wanted to test my flash backups, so I zeroed the flash and then copied it back. Now my AP won't boot. U-boot still exists and tftp boot still works, so it's not that bad. I think there is some partition info that was lost, though. I do have a second AP of the same model I can examine and copy stuff from.
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You laugh, but I challenge you to show me a more central location for a room
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Today it is now about 1.5 feet off the ground. ![]()
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Hang your phone out of your pocket with an Ethernet cable. Ideally 1.5 feet off the ground.
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ryanrs posted:Ha ha ha, oops. I wanted to test my flash backups, so I zeroed the flash and then copied it back. Now my AP won't boot. I’m just extremely confused as to why you were even touching the APs at all, let alone enough to overwrite the firmware.
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Well these Aruba APs came pre-loaded with a bunch of HP code, so I wanna get rid of that. You know, like when you buy a new Windows computer and have to delete all the pre-installed junk. Anyway, a factory reset restored the partition table. It seems like the bootloader and the OS need to agree on where the flash memory partitions are, which is reasonable I guess, though I'm still not sure how it was working the first time. So while I can't (yet) rewrite the partition table, I can at least move OpenWrt out of the 32 MB partition and into the 64 MB partition. I'd like the whole 128MB chip, but 64 will do. It's at least big enough that I won't be hitting the limit constantly. It's a quality of life / laziness thing, more than a hard requirement. e: I may have an explanation for earlier efforts seeming to succeed. What if the bootloader couldn't find the kernel, but I didn't check the error message before jumping to the kernel that wasn't loaded? And what if I've been doing warm reboots and the initramfs kernel image was still sitting there in RAM? Ha ha. ryanrs fucked around with this message at 04:26 on Apr 20, 2024 |
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Internet Explorer posted:Hang your phone out of your pocket with an Ethernet cable. Ideally 1.5 feet off the ground. I'm sorry to disappoint you I didn't have time to do a gimmick picture. I actually have a usb-c ethernet adapter there so I can test the wall jacks with my laptop. I got to do it as a site gag with a new coworker though when he was chiding me about my poster. I was really glad to happen to have it within reach.
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I can forgive you. It's beautiful.
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Getting some weird RSTP issues with UniFi now... I realized my den is the coolest room in the house, so I moved my new NAS build down there, since I have a MoCA adapter in that room also. Moved a switch to be connected to that MoCA adapter to feed the NAS until I get around to running fiber to that spot. This may have proven to be one too many switches on MoCA... trying to access the BMC interface or TrueNAS interface, connection drops pretty frequently and I see UniFi network reporting its blocking on the Uplink port of the switch. Trying to figure out in the logs where it thinks the loop is being created, but topologically, there should be no loop. The only thing the new switch is connected too is the BMC and NIC1 of my NAS for downlink. I have two other switches hanging off the MoCA interfaces that have been flawless for years -- and one of them with two Sonos Amps attached has intentionally blocked STP on the Amp ports as Sonos uses some weird STP variant. I do have my RSTP priorities set correctly, I think: * Trunk: 8192 * Leaf 0, Leaf 1: 16384 * Next level (MoCA + anything else directly attached): 32768 (total 5 switches: garage, kitchen, den, office) * Anything further: 36864 (1 switch: office desk switch) Can't figure out why adding this one switch has suddenly thrown everything for a (heh) loop. UniFi topology detection is notoriously dumb and has decided the new problematic switch is the 'parent' of the others. movax fucked around with this message at 03:38 on Apr 22, 2024 |
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Shumagorath posted:Please let me know if this is more of a layer 1/2 thread than higher up. I've made progress on my Network Manager based gateway / firewall, but I can't figure out how to make the VPN fail closed since nmcli treats Wireguard as different from all other VPN types. Am I stuck using OpenVPN or something older so I can designate a secondary object? I tried not having a default route through the main WAN and making routes that only populated when the VPN was up, but that must have been wrong as the connectivity didn't survive a reboot. Just use Tailscale, OP. In the very unlikely case that it doesn’t work, it’ll be because of one of the reasons listed in the detailed, thorough FAQ that explains the cause and the solution.
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# ? May 21, 2024 11:46 |
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Subjunctive posted:Just use Tailscale, OP. In the very unlikely case that it doesn’t work, it’ll be because of one of the reasons listed in the detailed, thorough FAQ that explains the cause and the solution.
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