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looks good. my only note is that those spikes into your butthole might be a little uncomfortable after a while
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Apr 20, 2024 21:08
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Stick chairs have a very sculptural quality to them, hope it ends up sitting well too.
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Apr 20, 2024 22:00
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PokeJoe posted:looks good. my only note is that those spikes into your butthole might be a little uncomfortable after a while Good grip is undervalued in seating
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Apr 20, 2024 22:04
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Post pics of the current jointer.  It's a 37-280 Pulled the motor cover off, it has a toothed belt which seems a little incorrect. Motor pulleys were also misaligned, I got them mostly back in line now. Belt conditioner arrives tomorrow. You may notice the stand has a cardboard box custom built into it. That is because this piece of poo poo has no dust collection and instead just sprays chips everywhere, and this was my solution to maybe put a stop to that. One of the cardboard bits is held to the frame with magnets and I have to pull it off and sweep out the shavings every third board or so, which is another reason I hate it. Keep meaning to 3d print a dust port that I can maybe just shove into my dumb cardboard enclosure, but I genuinely do not like this jointer enough that I do all I can to just avoid having to use it. Though I suppose the only other jointer I've ever used was a massive 10" monster from the 30s or 40s, so I don't have a great well of comparison for how a jointer should sound/feel
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Apr 21, 2024 05:00
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Turns out this old weird corner bench from the old owners in our garage seems to have a decent enough frame when I removed all the crap on it and took off the old plywood top (my wife had been using it as it had a bunch of cubbies cribbed from particle board furniture screwed onto it). Most of the workbench videos I've seen have pretty complicated construction but is there much reason to do anything more elaborate than screw down some fresh plywood? That seems level enough on the frame I assume some sanding would get it fairly level (or as level as I get as someone perpetually crooked with everything).  Edit: are the screws an issue in a garage with big temperature swings? I haven’t done anything where I needed to worry about that before. The old plywood was nailed down but I don’t have a nailgun so that seems tedious. FuzzySlippers fucked around with this message at 11:55 on Apr 21, 2024 |
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Apr 21, 2024 08:43
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The screwed-together piece-of-junk workbench in my garage holds up fine. What kind of work are you envisioning here? Hand tool woodworkers seem to prize workbenches that are hefty and flat. The heft is to avoid movement when doing vigorous things like planing, but having your workbench being attached to the wall might compensate for that. Flatness is also good when planing (don't want the work piece bowing under the pressure) and as a flat reference surface. Power tool woodworkers seem less obsessed with these qualities. If it were me I might laminate two or three layers of 3/4" ply and screw it to that frame. Should be very sturdy and stay flat. My current workbench, which I'm planning on replacing as my next project, is just a single layer of 3/4" ply and I find it's too flimsy.
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Apr 22, 2024 15:55
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Mostly power tools. I haven't gone on the antiquing vision quest needed for less expensive hand planes, but I might do it one day (being able to flatten boards properly would certainly be nice). I've got two pieces of 3/4 plywood so I'll give that a go and I suppose I can always screw on another one if I find that insufficient.
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Apr 22, 2024 21:32
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a couple of 2x10s or some such would also probably do well there, depending on what you want. Look at Rex Kreuger's nicholson workbench tops
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Apr 22, 2024 21:58
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My previous owner made one like that, with a solid core door as the top. It's sturdy, supports a vice
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Apr 22, 2024 22:32
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Any tips for making templates? I'm making a plant stand with legs roughly shaped like this (I've tweaked some of the actual dimensions to look less dumb since I did the sketchup drawing, but the overall shape is the same): I've got the leg blanks, with joinery to the cross-pieces already cut, so all that I have left to do other than glueup, sanding, finishing, etc is to cut the legs to their final shape. I figured I would first make a template, then cut the rough shape of the legs on my little 10" bandsaw, then use a flush trim bit/pattern bit to get the legs to final shape. My plan to make the template was to rough cut it out of 1/4" MDF on the bandsaw and then trim it down to the lines on the belt/spindle sander, but that didn't go particularly well. I was struggling to keep the lines straight, and ended up making the surface that has the joinery for the crosspieces too small, which is the only part that's actually critical to get right. Since the template is all straight lines, my next thought is to make a series of jigs to position the piece of MDF to cut each of the lines on the table saw. There's still the interior corner to worry about, but I could get close and then clean up just that part with chisels/rasps/sanding. Does that seem like it makes sense? As I'm typing this I'm realizing the jig I need is basically a straight-line rip/tapering jig, so maybe it's time to make one of those for real.
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Apr 22, 2024 22:33
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more falafel please posted:Any tips for making templates? I'm making a plant stand with legs roughly shaped like this (I've tweaked some of the actual dimensions to look less dumb since I did the sketchup drawing, but the overall shape is the same): I use rasps, planes, and cheap, coarse harbor freight files a lot for patterns. I usually use half inch plywood because MDF is pretty hard on hand tools, but you can always sharpen hand tools, not a big deal. I prefer 1/2” stuff because it’s alot more meat for the bearing to ride on and is much stiffer and takes less fastening to the workpiece. You’re right that with the exception of a stationary disk/belt sander or sandpaper stuck to a block, sanding is almost never a good way to get a straight, precise line. I would probably do about what your describing-get as much as you can out of the machines (the straight lines) and then clean everything else up (inside curves) by hand with files and rasps. It’s really worth spending time to get the pattern just right. I would probably bandsaw those outside lines and get them straight on the jointer-exactly how you do that is gonna depend on your equipment. Table straight-line jig, bandsaw and handplane, router running against a fence are all just different ways to get where you want to go. You might want to look into making an L fence for your tablesaw (basically a fence that sits just above the blade). They are really handy for safely kinda free handing stuff on the tablesaw. Whiteside’s 1/2” spiral flush trim bits are really amazing. Not cheap but they make pattern work a ton easier because they largely ignore grain.
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Apr 23, 2024 01:34
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I use rasps, planes, and cheap, coarse harbor freight files a lot for patterns. I usually use half inch plywood because MDF is pretty hard on hand tools, but you can always sharpen hand tools, not a big deal. I prefer 1/2” stuff because it’s alot more meat for the bearing to ride on and is much stiffer and takes less fastening to the workpiece. You’re right that with the exception of a stationary disk/belt sander or sandpaper stuck to a block, sanding is almost never a good way to get a straight, precise line. I would probably do about what your describing-get as much as you can out of the machines (the straight lines) and then clean everything else up (inside curves) by hand with files and rasps. It’s really worth spending time to get the pattern just right. Thanks! I did end up making a straight line rip/taper jig to cut these wacky angles (and still had to cut into the fence of it just a little), but it turned out pretty perfect. Still need to clean up the inside corner, but I'll figure that out soon. 
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Apr 23, 2024 04:42
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Maybe I'm a lazy bum but with a shape like that I'd probably just make the pattern out of two pieces and stick them together.
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Apr 23, 2024 14:10
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At this point I would clean up that inside corner with a chisel, but yeah making two pieces and gluing them would let you use a plane to get flat edges.
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Apr 23, 2024 16:56
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Making that template is a good example of where a tracksaw would shine, line the track up and plunge right up into the corners and cut the tapers. Here's a couple of recent projects, the first is a pair of jewelry boxes. The one on the left is ash burl with walnut edging. The one on the right has a spalted beech body, pepperwood burl top and maple edging. The blue fabric is deerskin and the red is pig suede.    Also a pair of white oak frame for some block print art. 
Meow Meow Meow fucked around with this message at 02:10 on Apr 24, 2024 |
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Apr 24, 2024 01:56
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wtf
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Apr 24, 2024 05:24
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do you post these just to put the rest of the thread in our place
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Apr 24, 2024 05:25
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PokeJoe posted:do you post these just to put the rest of the thread in our place Not only that, he does it as an after thought on a post about something else.
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Apr 24, 2024 05:38
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I have some birch plywood here with an edge that shows a bit of the dark layer immediately underneath. It's just on the edge in a few thin lines. Yes, I sanded too much. Is there anything I can do to lighten that up or color over it? I know about staining markers and the like for dark colors, but this plywood is really light in color and we want to use a clear wipe-on poly. Wood putty isn't really doing the job since it has to be laid so thin that I still see it.
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Apr 24, 2024 07:09
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I am making a dice tower for my nephew, and I want to make it look like a castle. I planned on getting some dowels and putting some towers on the 4 corners, nothing major, but I can't think of a safe way to cut out a notch into the dowels. Right now my thoughts are going to a table saw, leaving them long and then trimming them up, but then I wouldn't have a nice clean edge. Router seems like a terrible idea. Any ideas? 
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Apr 24, 2024 12:37
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Rocko Bonaparte posted:I have some birch plywood here with an edge that shows a bit of the dark layer immediately underneath. It's just on the edge in a few thin lines. Yes, I sanded too much. Is there anything I can do to lighten that up or color over it? I know about staining markers and the like for dark colors, but this plywood is really light in color and we want to use a clear wipe-on poly. Wood putty isn't really doing the job since it has to be laid so thin that I still see it. Maybe cut that layer fully away where it shows through and find some birch veneer to glue in its place?
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Apr 24, 2024 12:47
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AFewBricksShy posted:I am making a dice tower for my nephew, and I want to make it look like a castle. Put dowel in a vise, and use a chisel. You'll probably squish the part of the dowel that's clamped in the vise, mind you. Using power tools on dowels for anything other than crosscuts is an iffy proposition.
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Apr 24, 2024 13:45
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Meow Meow Meow posted:Making that template is a good example of where a tracksaw would shine, line the track up and plunge right up into the corners and cut the tapers. These look great. Did you fume the white oak frames? They have a nice a color. AFewBricksShy posted:I am making a dice tower for my nephew, and I want to make it look like a castle. Otherwise, vise and chisel or redesign the turrets to not be round lol. e: Rocko Bonaparte posted:I have some birch plywood here with an edge that shows a bit of the dark layer immediately underneath. It's just on the edge in a few thin lines. Yes, I sanded too much. Is there anything I can do to lighten that up or color over it? I know about staining markers and the like for dark colors, but this plywood is really light in color and we want to use a clear wipe-on poly. Wood putty isn't really doing the job since it has to be laid so thin that I still see it. The least bad way to repair it is to touch it up. You have to use a pigmented product to make things lighter-dyes (like touch up markers) can only make things darker. These are the standard professionally-just very finely ground dry pigments that you mix with shellac or really anything to make a touch up paint, but you can use literally any opaque paint. A paint pen works, acrylic paint, latex paint, whatever. You want to use very thin layers (so you may need to thin the paint out with the appropriate solvent) so you don't see the thickness of the paint under the finish. You can touch up 90% of woods with white, black, burnt and raw sienna and burnt and raw umber mixed correctly. For birch, if you can find a tan sorta color that would be better to start from than white. It's almost always better with touchup to go too dark rather than too light, and less is usually more. You're not trying to make the sand-thru disappear, you're trying to make it not jump out. Make some samples out of scraps to practice on and test compatibility with your top coat. There shouldn't be an issue there if you let the paint fully dry and keep it thin, but to be safe you can lightly scuff sand the paint with 220 or 320, put a very thin coat of dewaxed shellac over it, lightly scuff that when dry, then proceed with the wipe-on poly. Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 14:45 on Apr 24, 2024 |
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Apr 24, 2024 14:26
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AFewBricksShy posted:I am making a dice tower for my nephew, and I want to make it look like a castle. I've worked a little bit with home depot dowels, when I was slicing them in half lengthwise to make half-rounds for example. They're extremely soft wood with a grain that does not run evenly the length of the dowel, so they want to squish, hand saw blades won't track straight, it's a real pain in the rear end. Hardwood dowels are much easier to work with because the wood is just so much better, but of course they're a lot more expensive and you have fewer choices of diameter. Anyway I suggest you do not try to use power tools on small bits of soft pine dowel. I would be going at that project by clamping softly in the vise and then figuring out a way to clamp a steel straight edge, and then using a very sharp knife, like a X-Acto or a stanley knife/box cutter with a fresh blade. It should cut through an eighth of an inch of soft white pine pretty easily. If your dowel is a bit too hard for that, then chisels. Another option you might not have considered is to leave the dowel whole, and cut rounds into your tower to inset them?
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Apr 24, 2024 17:44
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:The least bad way to repair it is to touch it up. You have to use a pigmented product to make things lighter-dyes (like touch up markers) can only make things darker. These are the standard professionally-just very finely ground dry pigments that you mix with shellac or really anything to make a touch up paint, but you can use literally any opaque paint. Just to be certain then: would a water-based polyurethane serve as a base into which I could mix up that stuff? I'm planning to try this out and would be happy if it mixes with what I intend to apply as a finish anyways.
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Apr 24, 2024 18:05
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Rocko Bonaparte posted:Just to be certain then: would a water-based polyurethane serve as a base into which I could mix up that stuff? I'm planning to try this out and would be happy if it mixes with what I intend to apply as a finish anyways. This guy is a treasure in person and goofy on youtube, but he does some touch up stuff with powders around the 9:00 mark in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kp87We2E-44
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Apr 24, 2024 18:41
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Haha fancy that. I had just ordered blonde, antique white, and plain white.
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Apr 24, 2024 18:42
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The real magic happens when you add dye over those. You can get it too light with the powders, seal them down with a thin coat of finish, then use a touch up marker over the top to tweak the color more. They are also very useful for tweaking pigment stains.
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Apr 24, 2024 18:46
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been thinking about shooting boards and the shooting planes that lee valley sells and the handles the rob cosman sells etc... Don't full wood body planes solve all of these problems? I'm going to try it myself soon with one that I have laying around, but is there a downside to using a solid wood jack plane as a shooting plane? They have really good registration faces etc, and once you have it set up it should stay in place real nice.
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Apr 24, 2024 22:29
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People used wooden planes with shooting boards for a century or five so I'm sure it's fine
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Apr 24, 2024 22:31
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they're fine one thing is that they're usually considerably lighter than metal planes and that extra heft makes shooting easier
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Apr 24, 2024 22:32
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Leperflesh posted:People used wooden planes with shooting boards for a century or five so I'm sure it's fine Yeah I'm not so concerned with "it's fine will it work" and more with "wait a minute, doesn't this do a better job of all of the expensive modern solutions"? PokeJoe posted:they're fine one thing is that they're usually considerably lighter than metal planes and that extra heft makes shooting easier Hm right ok that's the trade-off. I wonder if there are others I'm not thinking of.
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Apr 24, 2024 22:35
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CommonShore posted:Yeah I'm not so concerned with "it's fine will it work" and more with "wait a minute, doesn't this do a better job of all of the expensive modern solutions"? many people find modern planes easier to fine tune and micro-adjust than the old timey wooden planes the mouth on wooden planes is moderately narrower I guess? That reduces how thick of a piece of work you can shoot with a given plane
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Apr 24, 2024 22:39
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Soles of wooden planes also wear considerably faster than metal ones. Especially on a plane that's used heavily on a shooting board that wear is going to be very uneven to boot. Nothing insurmountable, flattening a wooden plane sole is pretty trivial after all, just a point of note. Overall rigidity of the iron (assembly) is another, planing endgrain is fairly violent, so you want a chunky iron. Metal planes are just much easier to mass produce than woodies, which require much more skills that can't be transferred to machines as easily. Having said that, there's still people that make them. Philly Planes does a slutty skew miter plane that'd be excellent for shooting board work that I've had my eye on for ages, but at 300 pounds it's a bit too rich for me when I've already got a low angle jack pretty much dedicated to shooting (it being the only plane with heft I have that's square between side & sole). Just Winging It fucked around with this message at 23:13 on Apr 24, 2024 |
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Apr 24, 2024 23:11
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there's hojillions of functional or rescue-able wood planes available for cheap on ebay and in antique stores and rummage sales etc., I certianly wouldn't recommend buying a new one for shooting. But if you already want one, you can get them and use them for shooting, I guess is the point. Also these old planes tend to come with extra thicc plane irons, tapered from fat near the cutting edge to thinner at the top, which makes them wedge in very nicely with the wooden wedge. Several makers now sell repros/replacements if you are rescuing an old wooden plane and the original iron is fuckered. e. also if you want the finer adjustment etc. but the wooden body, the transitional planes are out there too Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 23:22 on Apr 24, 2024 |
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Apr 24, 2024 23:20
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Oh I know. I have gaggles of old woodies, and an old British try plane with a chunky AF Ward-made iron that'd do fine at this if it wasn't just a tad too long. I just mentioned that one because crow brain, or if someone wanted something to copy off of when making their own.
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Apr 24, 2024 23:37
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They’re not cheap (tho usually comparable to or cheaper than a lie-nielsen/Veritas) but EC Emmerich planes are awesome. Beech bodies with hornbeam or lignim vitae soles for wear resistance and either a wooden wedge which fits great or some have a metal screw adjusting mechanism that also works well. I have a big jointer or try plane or something of theirs with just a wedge and its not difficult to adjust, stays super sharp, and is a pleasure to use. Waxed wooden planes just fly along the wood.
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Apr 25, 2024 01:18
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CommonShore posted:Yeah I'm not so concerned with "it's fine will it work" and more with "wait a minute, doesn't this do a better job of all of the expensive modern solutions"? This thread has gone through multiple rounds of the stages of acceptance that some crushingly expensive precision-machined youtube-darling superplane is nearly useless for actually planing wood, lmao Metal bodies are much more easily mass produced to a certain level of quality, are simpler to twiddle with, and can take a serious beating. The wood ones depend on hand fitting by someone reasonably able to figure out problems in wood, and replace a wood block if it gets damaged. Planing kinda sucks and I think a lot of the horseshit about planes online is best explained by considering that almost nobody buying planes and posting product reviews actually does it all that much; the guys who I know for a fact have produced impressive volumes of planed wood tend to either talk a lot about some japanese master bladesmith who died 26 years ago or just grab a fistful of rusty metal from the rusty metal pile and go to loving town, neither are terribly helpful A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 01:54 on Apr 25, 2024 |
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Apr 25, 2024 01:30
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:These look great. Did you fume the white oak frames? They have a nice a color. Thanks, no fuming, it's just osmo. They look a bit darker in the photo due to the yellowish paint and poor lighting (hanging under the steps). PokeJoe posted:do you post these just to put the rest of the thread in our place No of course not. Happy to share any techniques if anyone wants to build something similar.
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Apr 25, 2024 02:59
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A Wizard of Goatse posted:This thread has gone through multiple rounds of the stages of acceptance that some crushingly expensive precision-machined youtube-darling superplane is nearly useless for actually planing wood, lmao I didn't know Bridge City sponsored youtubers, those guys don't seem to touch anything that doesn't come in a systainer or requires physical effort lmao The thing with planing is that there's a certain skill threshold (higher for woodies, lower for metal) after which you can use them to eat your breakfast. Provided the plane isn't a complete tool shaped object, most issues can be addressed/fettled with some time & effort. Spending money (on actual proper tools) just cuts out some of the initial learning curve (which then comes back to bite some people when the plane loses adjustment/needs sharpening/etc. because they never bothered to learn how). Experience you only get from actually planing up piles of stock, not waving your brand-new LN at some edges to make some wisp before putting it into its permanent resting place in your tool cabinet. (Yes, I'm aware this isn't very helpful, telling you to do what I do/did: just grab whatever you have and put your pussy in it & commit to the bit, but it's the best me and my emotional support
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Apr 25, 2024 03:05
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