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Beef Eater posted:What do you call that wooden thing that looks kind of like a pommel horse, and you can put two of them together to lay your project across them? Would 100% recommend spending the money on the $49 toughbuilt ones.. you can lay a nice worksurface on em and they're bigley sturdy while folding up small. I use mine a bunch as an outfeed table for a table saw or project table outside etc etc etc. well worth the $100 for 2 instead of the $50 flimsy plastic folding ones. Or just buy some 2x4's and make your own pair for like 15 bucks.
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Apr 29, 2024 14:22
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I have two plastic horses and the little hinge tabs that allow it to fold are total poo poo and frustrate the hell out of me but new horses as lower on my list of things I said I would buy because I currently own a poo poo model (I'm staring at you wheel barrel).
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Apr 29, 2024 14:27
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Is there a special name for a sawhorse that can be adjusted to different heights for holding the end of a board at a mitre saw or something? I swear I’ve seen exactly what I mean at construction sites. Usually looks like a saw horse made from square pipe with a roller on top.
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Apr 29, 2024 14:29
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Outfeed stand or roller stand
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Apr 29, 2024 14:31
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Qwijib0 posted:Outfeed stand or roller stand That does it, thanks!
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Apr 29, 2024 14:34
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tuyop posted:Is there a special name for a sawhorse that can be adjusted to different heights for holding the end of a board at a mitre saw or something? I swear I’ve seen exactly what I mean at construction sites. Usually looks like a saw horse made from square pipe with a roller on top. spefisically for a miter saw you probalyb want a Miter saw stand.. They do more than just hold the saw.. you have a outfeed/infeed roller that supports your longer work pieces, and usually an L on each side so you can measure once and lock the L down and use it as a stop for your wood so your 10 30" cuts are reasonably accurate without having to measure all 10. for different things yeah.. an outfeed roller is what you want.
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Apr 29, 2024 15:06
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AFewBricksShy posted:I have a cedar pergola. Is there any way to clean all the black gunk off of it without just re-sanding the entire thing? Power washer. Wait for a blazing hot day, wear only shorts and goggles.
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Apr 30, 2024 02:21
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PainterofCrap posted:Power washer. Wait for a blazing hot day, wear only shorts and goggles. Can't that gently caress up the wood though?
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Apr 30, 2024 12:33
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AFewBricksShy posted:Can't that gently caress up the wood though? if you do it at a bazillion psi yeah, start low with a fan tip
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Apr 30, 2024 13:47
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We've recently had laid down in our attic. Previously the attic was boarded for storage, and insulation was under those boards, but it must not of been very substantial because the first winter we were in the house it was freezing cold and really hard to get warm. Our friend was giving away rolls of insulation she no longer needed, so we had them laid down in the attic, sacrificing the storage space for now. The house does feel warmer now, and this last winter was a lot better than the first. However recently I've noticed some mould on the rafters in the attic, and I suspect the insulation contributing to the space being a moisture trap. Is that possible and how much do I need to worry about this? As a first time house owner anything like this sends me into a panic spiral.
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Apr 30, 2024 14:19
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I am sure someone smarter will be along shortly, but attics are normally intended to allow the passage of air. If you put down a bunch of insulation, you may have inadvertently covered over the roof vents that are sometimes along the eaves. These are basically just little intended gaps that let air into the attic, but if you didn't have much insulation they may not have extended far. You can get baffles that attach to let the airflow get past your insulation layer. 
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Apr 30, 2024 15:59
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My partner was messing with the pipes under our sink and somehow got this part detached from the rest of it - As far as I can tell it's just supposed to bridge the gap between the p-trap and the drain, but for the life of me I cannot get it inside of the bottom of the drain pipe here - they're like exactly the same size so it won't go in. I feel like I have to be missing something basic since everything else fits together in a straightforward fashion.
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Apr 30, 2024 16:05
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PriorMarcus posted:We've recently had laid down in our attic. Ja, examine that diagram in the next post below yours; you need to make sure that the attic space is 'breathing,' that you didn't roll insulation over the vents. Some mold on the framing is no big deal, the greater concern is the trapped moisture that it signals - that will eventually rot your framing & sheathing. Geight posted:My partner was messing with the pipes under our sink and somehow got this part detached from the rest of it - As far as I can tell it's just supposed to bridge the gap between the p-trap and the drain, but for the life of me I cannot get it inside of the bottom of the drain pipe here - they're like exactly the same size so it won't go in. I feel like I have to be missing something basic since everything else fits together in a straightforward fashion. Unscrew what's left of it from the drain, set the two pieces together to determine the length needed, then hop over to a plumbing supply house (preferably) or hardware store & buy a new one. You may have to buy a longer one & cut it down.
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Apr 30, 2024 16:19
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PainterofCrap posted:Ja, examine that diagram in the next post below yours; you need to make sure that the attic space is 'breathing,' that you didn't roll insulation over the vents. Some mold on the framing is no big deal, the greater concern is the trapped moisture that it signals - that will eventually rot your framing & sheathing. Thanks both. Are the vents easily spottable if I have to pull back the insulation and find them? Annoyingly we got a professional in to put down the insulation as it was an older (still safe, but more fibrous) variety that I didn't want to deal with, so I would've thought they would know not to cover the vents!
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Apr 30, 2024 16:27
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PainterofCrap posted:That's supposed to be soldered/welded together. You need a new tailpiece. Dang, thanks. I don't really understand how it was assembled that way in the first place, since as far as I can tell most of that little part just sat in the PVC and was just secured in. Geight fucked around with this message at 17:31 on Apr 30, 2024 |
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Apr 30, 2024 17:29
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PriorMarcus posted:We've recently had laid down in our attic. Moisture accumulation and mold growth in an attic will not have a single cause. There will be a precipitating cause that allows it to emerge, but focusing on the last 'event' prior to mold growth will result in a band-aid solution that fails to address larger systemic issues. For example, mold needs water to grow. I assume the insulation you installed was not wet, so cannot be the source of the moisture. One possible reason that you are seeing mold now is the new insulation dropped the temperature of the air above the insulation low enough to create an environment where condensation is depositing on your roof framing. But where did this moisture come from? If you want to explore this further, here are areas where more information is needed: 1. What are the moisture sources in your home? Do you run a humidifier for example. 2. What is your climate (closest major city would suffice) 3. Photos of the mold and any moist areas observed 4. Details on attic ventilation (do you have baffles, or gable vents (grilles at the 'ends' of the roof), or something else?) 5. Are you sure that your bathroom, dryer, and kitchen vents go outside the home, or could one or more be venting into the attic?
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Apr 30, 2024 17:30
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Geight posted:Dang, thanks. I don't really understand how it was assembled that way in the first place, since as far as I can tell most of that little part just sat in the PVC and was just secured in. It was welded which failed because of the ring of rust you can see around the top. They do make plastic ones (which are cut to length)
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May 1, 2024 00:17
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What are the basic safety gear one should have if you are going from “I’ve been a renter my whole life and own essentially zero tools,” to “oh god we’re buying a house”? First aid kit Safety glasses Work gloves Decent boots Dust masks (how do you make these not fog up the safety glasses?) What else?
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May 1, 2024 12:25
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doingitwrong posted:What are the basic safety gear one should have if you are going from “I’ve been a renter my whole life and own essentially zero tools,” to “oh god we’re buying a house”? Ear protection if you're going to start accumulating power tools.
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May 1, 2024 12:32
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doingitwrong posted:What are the basic safety gear one should have if you are going from “I’ve been a renter my whole life and own essentially zero tools,” to “oh god we’re buying a house”? What is a “dust mask”? A properly fitted respirator is designed to be worn while doing heavy labour with other PPE on and should be sealed around the nose so that it doesn’t fog up glasses. You should buy a set of N95s (FFP2 in Europe) that fit you, or a single elastomeric half mask respirator with P100 filters. The elastomeric is the smart money and you can fit it with all sorts of filters for different hazards or stinks. An N95 has head loops instead of ear loops, with an NIOSH stamp prominently displayed. If it doesn’t have the stamp, don’t trust it with your health. N95s will continue filtering things for about 40 hours in a dusty environment or until the mask is damaged and can be reused for little jobs. Your list also needs hearing protection. Get some foam plugs and a set of properly rated ear muffs from your hardware store. I also frequently wish I had some coveralls but I haven’t bought those yet.
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May 1, 2024 13:06
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Regarding respirators: the standard N95 is for filtering out dust. It's essential for sanding, sawing, working with drywall, and any other dusty work, but won't do anything to protect you from hazardous fumes. For those, you need a VOC (volatile organic compound) mask or filter. These contain activated carbon, which reacts with the fumes to pull them out of the air you breathe. Their lifetime is purely a function of how long they spend exposed to fresh air; eventually the carbon runs out and the filter is useless. You can prolong their lifetime by storing them in a sealed, airtight container (e.g. ziplock bag) when not in use.
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May 1, 2024 13:26
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Get a box of gloves, they go fast if you’re doing some sanding or whatever and it sucks finishing the day with your hands raw where you wore holes in the last remaining pair. Nitrile gloves are good if you’re going to be doing finicky stuff with solvents or wood glue or whatever. A foam pad for your knees and or a plastic folding stool might be nice. Headlamp
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May 1, 2024 13:45
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One of the main keys, as has been mentioned, is to get duplicates of a lot of that poo poo. I personally have cheapish safety glasses absolutely loving everywhere (garage, first floor with the basic tools, basement with the power stuff) so you're never tempted to just do the work. Also, get poo poo that's comfortable. Thick gloves for sharp work and collecting yard waste / spiky poo poo in the lawn, thinner gloves for all the other basic dirty work and chemical stuff.
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May 1, 2024 13:53
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Seconding getting a big bag of safety glasses and tossing some in every drawer in the house. You can get them for $1/piece and they will absolutely save you from losing an eye one day. Do not use any sort of rotary tool, angle grinder or anything that spins without glasses.
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May 1, 2024 14:13
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Thirding this. I grew up around a lot of tools, in a family that preferred the safety squint. It took me a while to realize I should be using safety glasses, but ever since I moved to the US and had some brush-ups against the local interpretation of a “healthcare system” I don’t even fart without them. They will save your eye one day, as they have mine on numerous occasions.
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May 1, 2024 14:20
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Inzombiac posted:Seconding getting a big bag of safety glasses and tossing some in every drawer in the house. I need to wear prescription glasses, so I can't do this.  I have safety glasses that fit over my glasses around the place, but they suck so much to wear. I dropped like $100 for a pair of prescription safety glasses and they rule! So, I keep them in my bag that I take to work and pull them out when I'm doing something around the house. Ever since I got a good pair that I enjoy wearing, I use them all the time. Really debating dropping another $100 to have a backup so I don't forget them somewhere when I need them.
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May 1, 2024 15:11
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fire extinguisher?
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May 1, 2024 16:55
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Not strictly safety, but a full outfit you don't mind getting permanent stains on. Some sort of shower cap if you ever work with polyurethane foam.
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May 1, 2024 17:06
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A MIRACLE posted:fire extinguisher? Several! I would recommend at least larger ones in the kitchen and garage, then if you wanna go overboard a smaller one near your furnace/water heater (if they're gas and not in the garage) and one in your bedroom that you can grab as you go to investigate a 3am smoke detector alarm.
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May 1, 2024 17:51
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I am trying to replace a garage light switch with a "smart" switch so that I can have it automatically turn off the lights at a certain time; I take the dog for a night walk and then frequently forget to turn off the lights. I turned off the breaker and opened the switch to find the attached wiring: https://imgur.com/ZsuVC0k The switch has black/hot coming into the lower screw, another black in the stab connection and red leaving the upper screw to the lights. I opened the two light fixtures and they seem to be powered by the red. It seems like the garage opener sockets are being fed off the black from the stab connection in the switch. Does that seem possible/reasonable? To add the "smart" switch without disturbing the existing system would I simply wire nut together the two existing blacks + smart switch black and then the other smart switch black to the existing red? nemotrm fucked around with this message at 19:30 on May 1, 2024 |
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May 1, 2024 19:27
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nemotrm posted:To add the "smart" switch without disturbing the existing system would I simply wire nut together the two existing blacks + smart switch black and then the other smart switch black to the existing red? Yes. And you'll probably need to pigtail the white (neutral) so that the two existing one plus a new line to your smart switch are connected together.
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May 1, 2024 19:43
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Flipperwaldt posted:Not strictly safety, but a full outfit you don't mind getting permanent stains on. Some sort of shower cap if you ever work with polyurethane foam. I have recently discovered coveralls. Would recommend.
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May 1, 2024 22:56
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A MIRACLE posted:fire extinguisher? As a property insurance adjuster for nearly 40-years, I have seen enough fire scenes that I now have probably a dozen fire extiguishers in my house; one each near points of egress, and at both the top and bottom of stairs, plus a few in corners of rooms where you could get trapped & will need to suppress to GTFO.
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May 2, 2024 01:14
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A MIRACLE posted:fire extinguisher? ...But I barely know 'er!
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May 2, 2024 01:20
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Thank you for all these helpful replies.
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May 2, 2024 02:00
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On the subject of fire extinguishers, do the little home models need replacing? I've had mine for about 10 years and never had need of it, but it's just some off the shelf Kidde model, about the size of a 1L bottle. I don't think they are charged like what you see in a school or office.
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May 2, 2024 14:59
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Uthor posted:I dropped like $100 for a pair of prescription safety glasses and they rule! So, I keep them in my bag that I take to work and pull them out when I'm doing something around the house. Ever since I got a good pair that I enjoy wearing, I use them all the time. Not to hijack the conversation, but where do you get them? I’m in need of a new pair and used to just repurpose some ones I was fitted with at a previous job.
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May 2, 2024 16:48
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Dr. Habibi posted:Not to hijack the conversation, but where do you get them? I’m in need of a new pair and used to just repurpose some ones I was fitted with at a previous job. This site. Six years ago, so don't know how they are these days. https://rx-safety.com/ A guy at work got a pair from, I think, Walmart recently. Or maybe Target? Uthor fucked around with this message at 17:40 on May 2, 2024 |
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May 2, 2024 17:38
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I’m trying to turn the back third of my pole barn into an insulated and conditioned ham shack, electronics lab and place for hobbies I don’t want covered in grinder dust.  How should I light this 16x8ft space? I’d like something less tacky than a bunch of “Costco Feit” worklights, but it’s still in a barn and I’m on a budget. edit: I kind of forgot that can-less recessed LEDs exist eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 21:23 on May 2, 2024 |
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May 2, 2024 21:06
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CzarChasm posted:On the subject of fire extinguishers, do the little home models need replacing? I've had mine for about 10 years and never had need of it, but it's just some off the shelf Kidde model, about the size of a 1L bottle. I don't think they are charged like what you see in a school or office. those things are almost useless due to their small size alone, dispose of it properly and get a full size one with a hose for aiming. the small ones might put out a small fire on the stove but that's about it.
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May 2, 2024 22:26
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