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I know of one person using those Rali planes specifically for site work (but this is also someone who sells them on their website, so I take take their enthusiasm with a grain of salt), because you can just switch out blades when they get nicked and don't have to drag an entire sharpening outfit along or spend expensive time sharpening. Which, sure, seems a sensible use-case. But those steel blades do eventually need sharpening anyway, they're too expensive to be thrown out. Tungsten carbide sounds interesting, but I wonder how it holds up in use. Dullness in my experience presents mostly as tiny fractures of the cutting edge, and while tungsten carbide is a lot harder than tool steel, it's also a lot more brittle. Shocks, like planing through a knot, or uneven loading are things that tungsten carbide does not do well with. (Unless they've got some far more ductile flavor than I'm familiar with, their lack of carbide chisel knives is kinda telling in this regard. Which is also sad because I would've been quite interested for one like that back when I did house stuff on the regular.)
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May 6, 2024 19:16
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I untwisted my twist bit. Oak is hard stuff y'all. Oh and I'm making progress on my cabinet  
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May 7, 2024 01:23
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lol and that's a nice cabinet
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May 7, 2024 01:26
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Well, looks like I have another project now: 3D printer enclosure. The large grow tent I bought for it is just a little bit too small (it's a larger-than-usual printer), and I have a feeling all the other enclosures on Amazon come out of the same factory in China and I'll run into the same problem. If I wanted to make a simple box out of 3/4" plywood panels, what would be the easiest way to join the sides? Appearance doesn't really matter as it'll be under my standing desk and largely out of sight. The enclosure is meant to get up to around 45-50C internally at max, so should be able to cope with that differential.
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May 7, 2024 01:48
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Well, looks like I have another project now: 3D printer enclosure. The large grow tent I bought for it is just a little bit too small (it's a larger-than-usual printer), and I have a feeling all the other enclosures on Amazon come out of the same factory in China and I'll run into the same problem. Pocket holes. Making quick plywood boxes is like the #1 usecase for pocket holes
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May 7, 2024 02:32
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Well, looks like I have another project now: 3D printer enclosure. The large grow tent I bought for it is just a little bit too small (it's a larger-than-usual printer), and I have a feeling all the other enclosures on Amazon come out of the same factory in China and I'll run into the same problem. If you want to get fancier and are properly equipped, screws (pocket hole or thru-screwed butt joints which are quicker and arguably stronger) are arguably better, staples are faster and stronger. Or machine screws and threaded inserts. Or 3D print some corner brackets you can screw the panel together with to make it all knock down, idk. Pretty much any metal fastener. Add glue to any of the above if desired, but its not necessary and that's around the temp where normal PVA wood glue starts to lose strength anyway.
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May 7, 2024 03:05
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I'd consider doing that out of 1x2s and 1/4 in plywood, honestly. 3/4 inch plywood is expensive and heavy.
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May 7, 2024 06:41
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I want to build a triangular pergola on my lower deck. The deck is 16’ x 16’ so I was thinking about making the side 8’ x 8’. I’m having trouble finding one…anywhere….with that size. I’m confident I can build it, I just want plants so I don’t mess it up. Could anyone here point me in the right direction?
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May 7, 2024 12:03
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Khizan posted:I'd consider doing that out of 1x2s and 1/4 in plywood, honestly. 3/4 inch plywood is expensive and heavy. Yeah, if you just need a container and don't need the sides to be particularly strong, a frame of wood 1x2 sticks, with thin sheet material nailed to it, will work just fine. You won't be able to put heavy stuff on the nice, inviting flat surface on top, though.
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May 7, 2024 12:03
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I was actually considering that (and putting 2" foam insulation board around the sides to help with heat retention). Is a skin on frame design going to be more or less resistant to warping from the temperature differential? There's only going to be a couple cm of space between the top of the enclosure and the bottom of my standing desk (this stupid thing is tall), so no worries about putting anything on it.
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May 7, 2024 13:36
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Ethics_Gradient posted:I was actually considering that (and putting 2" foam insulation board around the sides to help with heat retention). Is a skin on frame design going to be more or less resistant to warping from the temperature differential? don't underestimate the ability of vapor barrier to help with heat retention in a design like this, either instead of or in addition to your insulation board.
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May 7, 2024 14:01
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NomNomNom posted:I untwisted my twist bit. Oak is hard stuff y'all. Oh I kind of want to build something like this to get a bunch of miniature painting tools off my desk in the craft room so it's less of a colossal dust attractor.
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May 7, 2024 20:28
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FizFashizzle posted:I want to build a triangular pergola on my lower deck. The deck is 16’ x 16’ so I was thinking about making the side 8’ x 8’. I’m having trouble finding one…anywhere….with that size. I’m confident I can build it, I just want plants so I don’t mess it up. I'm having trouble understanding your situation and question. what sort of 8 foot by 8 foot thing are you looking to buy?
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May 7, 2024 20:30
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Hey, the weather is finally warm enough to do some finishing! I completed building this cabinet a few months ago and got it home this weekend to wrap it up. My usual, cherry with a few coats of amber shellac and a coat of wax.   I like the design, proportions, etc, but the execution is a bit lacking here and there. To be honest, I wanted to get back to making chairs the whole time I was working on it, so I was a little under-motivated to do good work. The door panels are carved in the same way as the other cabinet I built for this room, so they echo each other without using the same design. I quite like how "compact" this one is, it fits well in this corner of the room. Overall I'm happy with it, glad to have it home now. Also I wanted to throw a special mention to the drawer bottoms. I used to share my shop space with my neighbor, but he moved out a few years ago. When he left, he left some wood behind. One piece was this ratty looking old pine, no idea where it's from. I used a bit of it for some shop project, and after planing off the dirty outer surface, it turns out it's this absolutely lovely wood. Bright white and sparkling. I had just the one plank, so I saved it for the right use, which turned out to be the drawer bottoms for this project. The light color brightens up the drawer interiors. Here's a photo of one of the drawer bottoms next to the wood as it was before cleanup.  
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May 8, 2024 00:34
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looks good to me! nice, functional, and durable unrelated: I was buying some cheap pine today to make a box to store literal rocks in and found some w a birdseye esque pattern in the stack so I grabbed them as extra on what I came to buy. it's not very luxurious but it looks neat to me 
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May 8, 2024 00:39
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That's a great cabinet, nice work!
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May 8, 2024 00:52
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That's a mighty fine looking cabinet! This is not, but it'll do: The alley gods must be reading this thread, because I was met with this IKEA display cabinet laying on its side by the dumpster when I went downstairs today. The back parts of the frame appear to be 1x2's rather than square, but there's enough length with the two front ones to form the four vertical supports, then I can use the smaller pieces for the horizontal parts and/or some bracing. Am also going to see how much of the door can be re-purposed; I'd like to not have to try and learn how to use a router for now if I don't have to (the hinges are the kind that are sunk into the wood). It's a bit to narrow to use for the enclosure, but assuming it's plain float glass, probably gonna cut the window down and make some ambrotypes with it  CommonShore posted:don't underestimate the ability of vapor barrier to help with heat retention in a design like this, either instead of or in addition to your insulation board. I am trying to keep costs down as much as possible on this one, but will keep that in mind! I do have a bunch of leftover pond liner from that rain barrel project I posted about in December, but it's not very supple and would probably look even more junky. BaronVonVaderham posted:Oh I kind of want to build something like this to get a bunch of miniature painting tools off my desk in the craft room so it's less of a colossal dust attractor. One of the goons in the film camera thread repurposed one of those secretary desks into a camera repair workstation, it's a pretty great idea: keep all your supplies tucked away in one place, with the work surface that flips down when it's time to use.
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May 8, 2024 00:58
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never underestimate the value of free melamine. it's ideal for making jigs
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May 8, 2024 01:00
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I feel cursed; People only throw out ikea furniture around here when it’s raining
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May 8, 2024 01:55
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ColdPie posted:Hey, the weather is finally warm enough to do some finishing! I completed building this cabinet a few months ago and got it home this weekend to wrap it up. My usual, cherry with a few coats of amber shellac and a coat of wax. Straight & clear softwood is very neat, both to work, and visually. My preference for drawers/box bottoms honestly. Nice cabinet.
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May 8, 2024 02:26
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PokeJoe posted:never underestimate the value of free melamine. it's ideal for making jigs Yeah, I started on the intro to hand woodworking book in Japanese* last night and it's basically JigCraft: The Book. Something introduced in the first chapter is using some of that magnetic sheeting on the side for crosscuts, to help keep the saw blade at a constant angle, which is a neat idea I hadn't thought of. I used to have a bunch of those sheets laying around for turning beer labels into fridge magnets, but binned all of it when I moved last year. *I started with the second book (the Fine Woodworking Magazine one) from my pic a few posts back and quickly found myself way out of my depth, I think it's more for intermediate woodworkers. I think the first one might be more my speed. Sockser posted:I feel cursed; ~swells @ u~ We got our TV stand from the alley too; it was pretty wobbly but actually in pretty good condition. I just tightened everything down and added a few random missing fasteners and it was like new. This one has a fair bit of wear on some of the sides but nobody's going to see it. Ethics_Gradient fucked around with this message at 02:34 on May 8, 2024 |
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May 8, 2024 02:31
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Here's a 1.5 hour long video on a sanding machine build: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AHUUXfB0qHY
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May 8, 2024 05:24
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Have 48 minutes of Norm Abram making workshop jigs of increasing specificity and complexity. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=je8kLCeIdwg
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May 10, 2024 00:04
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I've been working on a planter for my mom for Mothers day. Yesterday I ended up having to make some patterns on the panels. https://www.woodcraft.com/blogs/cabinetry-furniture-making/frame-panel-planters  The directions said to make a jig to make that "quilted" pattern, I just figured gently caress the jig, I'll just use the track saw attachment I have for my router and do it that way, it will be way easier. About half way through I began to see the benefits of making a jig. I just didn't see the point as it was something I'd never use again, but it would have been so much easier had I just started from the beginning with the jig. what should have taken me 1 hour probably ended up every bit of 2.5 hours. Also in a couple of places the track slipped, so there will definitively be a "back" panel on this. So lesson learned, Jigs are worth it. I'm making it with cedar and just putting marine grade poly on the outside because I like the natural look of the wood. My garage smells amazing now as an added bonus. AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 15:09 on May 10, 2024 |
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May 10, 2024 14:56
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Yeah it's annoying having a pile of one-off jigs around the shop but I'm totally sold on not ruining a project by spending the extra half hour or hour it would have taken to make a one-off jig. Someday maybe I'll have the guts to trash a jig after a project is done but I'm not there emotionally yet.
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May 10, 2024 20:01
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I switch my brain to metric when I use my domino and it is a ton easier and I will likely build metric, 32mm kitchen cabinets for my kitchen soon. I've just figured out how to switch the DRO on my planer back and forth from decimal inches (decimal inches being their own headache vs fractional...) to mm and it's not hard to do but it takes probably 6 minutes and not something I'd want to do every day so I've been thinking of switching everything to metric. The main downsides that occur off the bat are: -All my router bits/drill bits are imperial -Harder to source metric tooling for the above (tho definitely not impossible) -I do some larger work, and 3124mm seems harder to remember than 10' 3" -After 35 years of existing in Imperial my brain has a pretty darn good idea what and eight, quarter, half etc inch looks like, and retraining it to think that as 12mm or whatever instead might be hard. I can instantly 'see 2', I can't instantly look at something and say that's 600mm. And the upsides: -Math way easier, dividing 3124mm by three is alot easier than dividing 10' 3" by three -making cutlist spreadsheets in excel much easier -never trying to round 1/32nds up or down -Probably fewer mistakes, eventually Woodworking goons that live in countries where Imperial feet/inches are the norm: have you switched your woodworking to metric? or thought about switching your shop to metric? If so, what weird little frustrating things have you run into as far as most supplies/tooling etc. being nominally imperial?
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May 10, 2024 20:47
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Get the Bosch Toolbox app. It has every possible conversion you can think of.
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May 10, 2024 20:58
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Interesting question for you as a production guy, but also I had to lol at your probably unintentional choice of example here:Kaiser Schnitzel posted:-Math way easier, dividing 3124mm by three is alot easier than dividing 10' 3" by three Feet and inches are explicitly way more friendly to division by three in particular! This one divides evenly in imperial: three feet, plus one third of a foot is four inches, plus one third of 3" is one inch, so that's three feet five inches exactly. Whereas you get one meter and then 124/3 is... uhhh... 41 point 33333? right? it's not even a whole number. Do you like fractional millimeters? One more thing you didn't mention is buying stock in board-feet if you are gonna convert to metric
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May 10, 2024 21:27
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I do a lot of 3d printing and modeling and my brain is hardwired for metric there, but I'm still full imperial in the shop But then when I'm drafting stuff to CNC? It's a crapshoot whether a project will be metric or imperial or sometimes loving both, and also of course decimal imperial has to sneak in there every time as well I've just sort of gotten used to the context switching at this point Leperflesh posted:One more thing you didn't mention is buying stock in board-feet if you are gonna convert to metric Wait, actually, how is lumber sold in metric countries? board-meter?
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May 10, 2024 21:31
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:-I do some larger work, and 3124mm seems harder to remember than 10' 3" Examples like this always seem to go both ways. What's easier to remember, 3100mm or 10' 2 1/16"? I feel like the reality is, whichever system you use you'll plan your work in round numbers in that system.
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May 10, 2024 21:36
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Leperflesh posted:Interesting question for you as a production guy, but also I had to lol at your probably unintentional choice of example here: The big frustration is that my planer is metric and moves in .1mm increments. That's about .004" which is pretty tiny, but enough to notice. But the frustrating thing about it displaying in imperial is that it is still working in .1mm increments and then converting them, so it reads either .248" or .252" but will never read .250" That's not usually a big deal, but it can be frustrating if I'm trying to match a part to a batch I already ran. The cut list says 2.25", but did I do 2.248" or 2.252"? And the minimum cut it can take is ~.02", so I can't just take another pass when I feel the paper-thickness difference. I often write the actual DRO dimension I milled to either on the cutlist or on the stock itself, which works great (when I remember to do it), but it would be alot easier to write 6mm on the cutlist and know that it was milled to 6.0mm. Add on to that, having to convert from fractional inches to the decimal inches the DRO displays in is another potential source of error. I have a chart taped above the DRO but it has still tripped me up sometimes. And most plywood I use is imported which is usually actually metric thickness etc etc. I hadn't thought about buying in board feet and that's exactly the kind of answer I was hoping for. An advantage of making cutlists in mm is that I should easily be able to calculate total volume of parts and then have it spit out a volume in cubic meters or w/e and convert that to BF. Alternatively, keep doing it the way I do know which is print a drawing in imperial and do a take off on that because excel does not handle fractional numbers well (or at least I'm too dumb to make it). I usually see a table is 32" x 90" and round up to call it 3'x8' or 24 bf anyway instead of (32*90)/144=20 BF. e: Sockser posted:Wait, actually, how is lumber sold in metric countries? board-meter? Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 22:10 on May 10, 2024 |
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May 10, 2024 21:57
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I find that if I'm trying to deal with wood in measurements of less than like 1/32" I've gone horribly wrong because wood does not like to remain within that sort of tolerance, and also I use a lot of hand tools and lol at trying to hit that with them either. I'm usually taking some measurement and transferring it rather than dividing it by seven or something. And I usually go over whatever amount I am looking at with buying stock by some large margin of error, because of split ends on the stock or uncertain kerf widths or just to account for my general jackassery cutting things wrong. I don't run a production shop though. Efficiency matters a lot for you, I expect.
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May 10, 2024 22:27
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Just Winging It posted:I know of one person using those Rali planes specifically for site work (but this is also someone who sells them on their website, so I take take their enthusiasm with a grain of salt), because you can just switch out blades when they get nicked and don't have to drag an entire sharpening outfit along or spend expensive time sharpening. Which, sure, seems a sensible use-case. But those steel blades do eventually need sharpening anyway, they're too expensive to be thrown out. Tungsten carbide sounds interesting, but I wonder how it holds up in use. Dullness in my experience presents mostly as tiny fractures of the cutting edge, and while tungsten carbide is a lot harder than tool steel, it's also a lot more brittle. Shocks, like planing through a knot, or uneven loading are things that tungsten carbide does not do well with. (Unless they've got some far more ductile flavor than I'm familiar with, their lack of carbide chisel knives is kinda telling in this regard. Which is also sad because I would've been quite interested for one like that back when I did house stuff on the regular.) Yeah drat I just looked into these. $6CAD per blade. It seems like they do intend them to be disposable? But gently caress that. If it were really so important to not do sharpening, you could buy a spare blade for your Stanley plane for $20CAD and keep that with you. As it is, sharpening a blade takes like two minutes once you've had a bit of practice, and also in practice having a small nick in a planer blade isn't generally that much of an impediment. You're usually trying to remove material quickly with a plane and often your workpiece will require further finishing anyway. Honestly it just seems like they invented a problem to solve.
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May 10, 2024 22:58
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Leperflesh posted:I find that if I'm trying to deal with wood in measurements of less than like 1/32" I've gone horribly wrong because wood does not like to remain within that sort of tolerance, and also I use a lot of hand tools and lol at trying to hit that with them either. I'm usually taking some measurement and transferring it rather than dividing it by seven or something. And I usually go over whatever amount I am looking at with buying stock by some large margin of error, because of split ends on the stock or uncertain kerf widths or just to account for my general jackassery cutting things wrong. yeah agreed to me 1/16 is good enough granularity and just rounding to the nearest millimeter is also good enough for essentially all hobby woodworking
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May 10, 2024 23:01
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that's one of the things I like about woodworking, nowhere near the tolerances of machining
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May 10, 2024 23:02
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Leperflesh posted:I find that if I'm trying to deal with wood in measurements of less than like 1/32" I've gone horribly wrong because wood does not like to remain within that sort of tolerance, and also I use a lot of hand tools and lol at trying to hit that with them either. I'm usually taking some measurement and transferring it rather than dividing it by seven or something. And I usually go over whatever amount I am looking at with buying stock by some large margin of error, because of split ends on the stock or uncertain kerf widths or just to account for my general jackassery cutting things wrong. I used to do a drawing with basic overall dimensions and then work off 'as built' measurements (or often direct transfers) as I got down to details like tenon placement, building drawers/doors, etc. Since adding a sliding table saw with very accurate stops/fence (and probably eventually adding a DRO to that as well) and getting alot better at CAD, I've really transitioned to building things truly as drawn and it's made my shop time alot more efficient at the expense of more computer time. I realize I'm probably in the minority in wanting to spend more time touching my computer and less time in the shop, lol. It's also been pretty cool to be able to build drawers/doors and cases concurrently and have them all (mostly) fit, whereas I used to never start on those until the case was glued up. So now that I care about hitting actual numbers accurately, I'm trying to figure out the best numbers to use easily.
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May 10, 2024 23:02
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Imperial units are explicitly made to be easily calculable by tradesmen. What size drill do you use to for the hole to put in a 1/4"-20 insert into a maple board? The answer is, obviously, a size G (or #7, if it's a softer hardwood)
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May 10, 2024 23:36
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Metric is life. Here's a look at the other side: Bunnings timber selection (Bunnings is like Australian Home Depot/Lowes). For the design phase, best practice is to put all dimension in mm. PokeJoe posted:that's one of the things I like about woodworking, nowhere near the tolerances of machining Someone's never tried to build a large format camera back or film holder  ANSI standards posted:.197" +/- 0.007"
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May 11, 2024 02:22
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I work a bit in both because my planer has a metric read-out, so generally all my thicknesses will be in metric. I still measure lengths in imperial because I find it much easier to read an imperial ruler/tape. The different scales on the ruler make it so quick to read down to the 1/16", whereas with a metric the scales are usually the same length and take a moment longer to count out.
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May 11, 2024 03:26
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Sockser posted:Wait, actually, how is lumber sold in metric countries? board-meter? Lumber yards specify prices per cubic meter for a given (standard, 26/33/40/52/80/105 mm) rough thickness of a species, usually with a standard discount for larger purchases (i.e. 0.5 m^3 gets you 5% off, 1+ m^3 10%), or a surcharge for unusually wide or long boards. Determining the actual measurements of a board can vary greatly from place to place, some do include sap wood in it, others don't, wane on non-straight edge boards may be measured from the narrowest part, or approximated, defects like large bark inclusions or knots may or may not be deducted from the total. (There's no standardized grading system like in North America, at least not one that's actually used.)
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May 11, 2024 04:13
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