|
I mean the method you proposed would probably work once, but you wouldn't like why the light stopped working when you closed the switch 
|
#
?
May 8, 2024 19:57
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 30, 2024 00:31 |
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:I mean the method you proposed would probably work once,
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2024 20:43
|
|
|
Tried to start my 2017 prius, host of lights came on, and it sounded Rough. Quickly shut it down, pulled code P0354. Okay cylinder four doesn't have a spark, let's take a look...  Oh. How do I fix this? Is there a way to get the nub of wire and that pin out of the connector? I can solder or crimp an extension on I guess.
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2024 23:17
|
|
|
NomNomNom posted:Tried to start my 2017 prius, host of lights came on, and it sounded Rough. Quickly shut it down, pulled code P0354. Okay cylinder four doesn't have a spark, let's take a look... Options: 1. You could take the connector apart with picks and little screwdrivers, then solder on a replacement wire. 2. Buy the whole pigtail and replace all the wires.
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2024 23:20
|
|
|
Google "2017 Prius ignition pigtail" and you'll get a bunch of results to wade through. It's probably a very common connector so you can find pins and plug and crimp straight to the factory wires but might not be worth the effort.
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2024 23:23
|
|
|
If your local junkyard has one of these you might be and to grab the pigtail cheap.
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2024 23:30
|
|
|
honda whisperer posted:Google "2017 Prius ignition pigtail" and you'll get a bunch of results to wade through. OP, Common pigtails are available at your local auto parts store. Take a bunch of good pictures (especially of where the pins go in) and take those pictures to the store. You'll probably get lucky.
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2024 23:37
|
|
|
The full part number is 90980-12A29 if that's any help. I haven't found any pins for it yet googling but I did find the whole empty housing. My personal preference would be to find the pin release tool for the connector and buy like ten pins, and just recrimp that one pin with an extension on the wire if needed rather than splicing all the wires.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2024 00:31
|
|
|
So what is the failure point on that? Looks like rodent damage and not chaffing.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2024 09:07
|
|
C-Bangin' it 
|
Thanks all. Ordered a kit with new pins and connectors. Is soldering the preferred method for extending the wires or butt crimp connectors? It's almost certainly rodent damage, the underside of the hood has some fiberglass insulation that had also been chewed on. Crazy since we drive the car everyday. Wouldn't be the first car mice/squirrels damaged, they ate like half of the wiring harness of our pontiac vibe
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2024 11:51
|
|
|
Haha that's a serious debate inside AI. The two thoughts are: 1. Crimps can suck and allow corrosion. A properly soldered, heat shrunk connection is the only way. 2. Solder wicks up the wire and makes a rigid section between two flexible ends in a vibration heavy environment. The wire will break next to the joint at some point. A properly crimped connection that uses the crimps that are full of glue and have heat shrink exteriors are the only way. A NASA manual on wiring will be cited. My .02 is to do whatever you're more comfortable doing and have the tools to do correctly. Either one done right will beat the other way done poorly.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2024 12:20
|
|
|
NomNomNom posted:Thanks all. Ordered a kit with new pins and connectors. Is soldering the preferred method for extending the wires or butt crimp connectors? Daughter's Jeep started throwing ABS lights, and it got drove every day. I test drove it around with a scan code reader, etc. trying to make sense of what was going on because she wasn't the greatest explainer of car problems. Anyways, finally popped the hood. Engine bay was filled with leaves around the ABS unit. Started yanking leaves out and noticed movement. Turns out was the nest/home for a bunch of baby squirrels.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2024 12:34
|
|
|
Colostomy Bag posted:Daughter's Jeep started throwing ABS lights, and it got drove every day. I test drove it around with a scan code reader, etc. trying to make sense of what was going on because she wasn't the greatest explainer of car problems. My boss had some baby squirrels delivered from the dealer where his Prius was being serviced back to his house via Uber one time a couple years ago. Fuckin squirrels.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2024 13:21
|
|
|
NomNomNom posted:Thanks all. Ordered a kit with new pins and connectors. Is soldering the preferred method for extending the wires or butt crimp connectors? I worked in a shop that did a lot of this thing. I recommend using butt crimp connectors, but squirt some silicone sealant in before you crimp. It will coat the connection with a water-tight seal, important when there's so much heat and humidity that goes through an engine bay. Finish it all off with some electrical tape and then wire loom to reduce the heat/friction that already broke your wire. Good luck! It's always better to leave a little extra wire for later, rather than try to get it perfect.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2024 13:48
|
|
|
honda whisperer posted:Haha that's a serious debate inside AI. I'm on team butt splices despite having been good at soldering for 28 years now, but that last sentence is the most important one here, you are right. Do whichever you personally are better at. Sealant lined heatshrink is the important part either way, the regular desktop PC building kind with no sealant will hold water in better than it keeps it out. Nocheez posted:I worked in a shop that did a lot of this thing. I recommend using butt crimp connectors, but squirt some silicone sealant in before you crimp. This is a good "it's all I have" method but don't do this, it's much easier and less likely to fail if you just use the right heatshrink sealant lined splices. Oh, use a little acetone or IPA on a clean rag to wipe any oil and grease off the insulation before you do the deed, the heatshrink will stick a lot better that way.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2024 15:23
|
|
|
I'm also on team buttsplices. Ime soldered joints fail a lot faster in environments with high intensity vibrations. Motos, 4wds, things with simple diesels.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2024 15:40
|
|
|
2018 4Runner, I recently took about a 12 hr drive down south hitting lots of traffic and I started hearing what sounded to me like the classic scraping of a warped rotor. When I finally had a chance to look at it, I jacked it up, and there was no problem. upon further inspection the heat shield above the muffler came fully loose and was just riding on top of the driveshaft. So now theres a couple spots where it wore a ring through the paint or whatever coating. Probably dont want that exposed to the elements for very long, is there anything in particular that you guys would suggest to spray on?
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2024 23:02
|
|
|
yamdankee posted:2018 4Runner, I recently took about a 12 hr drive down south hitting lots of traffic and I started hearing what sounded to me like the classic scraping of a warped rotor. When I finally had a chance to look at it, I jacked it up, and there was no problem. upon further inspection the heat shield above the muffler came fully loose and was just riding on top of the driveshaft. So now there’s a couple spots where it wore a ring through the paint or whatever coating. Probably don’t want that exposed to the elements for very long, is there anything in particular that you guys would suggest to spray on? If it were me probably whatever general purpose anti rust paint from the hardware store. I don't think you have to worry about throwing the balance of the shaft off or anything.
|
|
#
?
May 10, 2024 01:04
|
|
|
It's fairly non critical hardware, I would probably just put it back up. A lot of them are aluminum anyways.
|
|
#
?
May 10, 2024 01:33
|
|
|
kastein posted:It's fairly non critical hardware, I would probably just put it back up. A lot of them are aluminum anyways. I assume OP was saying that the paint wore through on the driveshaft. If theyre just talking about the heat shield I agree with you.
|
|
#
?
May 10, 2024 12:40
|
|
|
Having lived in the rust belt most of my life and never owned a car under 11 years old I forgot driveshafts even came with paint on them.
|
|
#
?
May 10, 2024 15:23
|
|
|
https://newlondon.craigslist.org/cto/d/woodstock-2001-honda-accord-ex-moonroof/7744246738.html Does anyone know what this guy means by "Racer" engine?
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2024 13:18
|
|
|
Probably means it's a good candidate for an engine swap. 90-2000 Hondas were very easy to install higher spec engines from other Hondas of similar years. I'm guessing he's heard of this but doesn't really understand it.
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2024 13:26
|
|
|
What's a good website for new parts for old trucks? Got a 1990 Dodge D150 and the seatbelts are pretty cruddy. Want some quality ones for my son.
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2024 19:32
|
|
|
LMC Truck.
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2024 19:36
|
|
|
cursedshitbox posted:LMC Truck. Freaking awesome. Thanks.
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2024 19:43
|
|
|
If you can't find what you want for that part on LMC Google seat belt repair and restore companies, there are a few good ones IIRC and they can color match your original webbing and repair all sorts of stuff.
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2024 20:21
|
|
|
kastein posted:If you can't find what you want for that part on LMC Google seat belt repair and restore companies, there are a few good ones IIRC and they can color match your original webbing and repair all sorts of stuff. That's cool. I'm not so much worried about restoration as just safety. It's my son's first vehicle and the current ones are pretty rough.
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2024 20:26
|
|
|
Honestly you should probably put him in a mid 90s or later car with crash safety things then. My newest vehicle is a 1988 domestic pickup so I'm in the same boat but there's nothing safe about these things. People think a big old truck is safe and it really is not. I will die or be seriously injured if I crash my 79 J10 at any significant speed. A $1500 poo poo heap Prius or something is a great first car that gets good fuel economy and will be an order of magnitude safer for him if (when, most new drivers crash eventually) he wrecks it. It will also mean absolutely nothing to you and can be scrapped without a second thought. I'd keep the Dodge and rebuild it with him but let him do his learning and crashing in a safer, less cared for vehicle.
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2024 20:53
|
|
|
kastein posted:If you can't find what you want for that part on LMC Google seat belt repair and restore companies, there are a few good ones IIRC and they can color match your original webbing and repair all sorts of stuff. LMC is awesome for American made trucks. National Parts Depot is almost as good too.
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2024 22:06
|
|
|
kastein posted:Honestly you should probably put him in a mid 90s or later car with crash safety things then. My newest vehicle is a 1988 domestic pickup so I'm in the same boat but there's nothing safe about these things. People think a big old truck is safe and it really is not. I will die or be seriously injured if I crash my 79 J10 at any significant speed. Welp, it's too late for that. Are there any upgrades I can install to increase safety? Other than new seatbelts?
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2024 14:02
|
|
|
Just reiterate good defensive driving skills and no distractions.
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2024 14:42
|
|
|
kastein posted:A $1500 poo poo heap Prius
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2024 14:45
|
|
|
SpeedFreek posted:Where do I get one of these? I need a battery and motor for... something. A time machine to 2007
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2024 14:45
|
|
|
wesleywillis posted:My boss had some baby squirrels delivered from the dealer where his Prius was being serviced back to his house via Uber one time a couple years ago. While I was out of town with the kids my wife saw a squirrel saunter into the engine compartment of our truck. In an attempt to scare it off from building it a nest in there, she immediately went out and turned on the truck. Immediately got a charging system warning and no power steering.  
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2024 16:01
|
|
|
Time for tongs & the pressure washer!
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2024 17:29
|
|
|
It was very wedged in there. First attempt was stick, no way. Tongs nope. Rubber gloves was the move. Actual appropriate content for the thread while Im here: belt seems fine so I should be able to just loosen the tensioner, toss it back on, and retension. When rotating the tensioner back, do I need to make sure its in a particular specific position (not too loose, not too tight) or does it somehow maintain correct tension as long as its roughly correct? 2022 ford 7.3 (Godzilla, not power stroke)
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2024 17:48
|
|
|
Iirc most serpentine tensioners are spring loaded
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2024 18:30
|
|
|
Steve French posted:It was very wedged in there. First attempt was stick, no way. Tongs nope. Rubber gloves was the move. According to FSM, yep... 
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2024 18:37
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 30, 2024 00:31 |
|
|
wesleywillis posted:Iirc most serpentine tensioners are spring loaded I assumed this but that doesnt tell me what Im wondering, since I would think with a basic spring loaded system that tension would depend on spring compression which would depend on how far the tensioner is rotated?
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2024 18:59
|
|