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DerekSmartymans posted:PCPartPicker Part List You don't need thermal paste. The stuff that comes with the cooler will be more than sufficient
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May 9, 2024 21:16
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grack posted:You don't need thermal paste. The stuff that comes with the cooler will be more than sufficient lol I didn’t know any came with it, just didn’t want to get parts all here on my table and not have any. Appreciate the tip!
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May 9, 2024 23:34
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That's a very expensive motherboard. Are you buying it for needed features?
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May 10, 2024 00:06
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LRADIKAL posted:That's a very expensive motherboard. Are you buying it for needed features? I definitely want the AM5 socket, DDR5 RAM slots, and PCIE 5 all for not having to completely replace the mb to piecemeal upgrade in the future, as all three should have legs. The Wi-Fi and Ethernet are good. It also has lots of SATA and m.2 capability, which means I can plug in some drives from older computers internally instead of usb cables. Finally, the number and placement of USB-A slots means I can ditch my hub as all my current devices will have connections, making room on my desk and managing cables out of sight!
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May 10, 2024 02:52
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FAT32 SHAMER posted:Thank you!! This is honestly a much better board than I expected him to have and you're totally fine.
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May 10, 2024 04:30
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DerekSmartymans posted:I definitely want the AM5 socket, DDR5 RAM slots, and PCIE 5 all for not having to completely replace the mb to piecemeal upgrade in the future, as all three should have legs. The Wi-Fi and Ethernet are good. It also has lots of SATA and m.2 capability, which means I can plug in some drives from older computers internally instead of usb cables. Finally, the number and placement of USB-A slots means I can ditch my hub as all my current devices will have connections, making room on my desk and managing cables out of sight! Those all sound like good enough reasons to me. It's always worth considering if a motherboard's features are something you'll actually use, and in this case, it sounds like the answer is "yes".
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May 10, 2024 05:06
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Babby Formed posted:This is honestly a much better board than I expected him to have and you're totally fine.  Also all of this was for naught because I guess his buddy dropped by and gave him his old 5600 and a 650w PSU lol. So now he has plenty of cash to throw at a GPU, though I’d imagine he may need a higher wattage PSU for the newer ones. I’ll plug his part list into pcpp and see what it looks like Thanks again for all the help, folks!
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May 10, 2024 05:12
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Well that does kind of sort the problem out.  If you want to keep it under $400, this model of Radeon 6800 is still under $400 and provides excellent performance for the price. It absolutely smokes the comparable GeForce 4060Ti and costs less. If you want to get into the $600 range, though, you get into the realm of the 4070 SUPER, which just utterly vaporizes everything at its price point and below. Just snag the Asus DUAL EVO model and never look back. --- On a different note, as a bit of an  awooga, 7800X3Ds are currently available from Amazon proper for $320: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BTZB7F88?tag=pcpapi-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1
SpaceDrake fucked around with this message at 05:44 on May 10, 2024 |
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May 10, 2024 05:28
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FAT32 SHAMER posted:So now he has plenty of cash to throw at a GPU, though I’d imagine he may need a higher wattage PSU for the newer ones. The 5600 is a fairly efficient, low-power CPU (it'll almost never pull more than 65W during gaming), which gives you a lot of headroom for your GPU. You can totally go up to a 4080 if you really want, though I wouldn't really recommend it. You can definitely slam dunk a 4070 Super in there no problem (or any other modern card that performs similarly or worse)
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May 10, 2024 07:50
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I've just built a pc and every time I turn it on, it just sits there for about a minute or two before proceeding to boot. The debug led on the MSI motherboard shows a red for CPU and yellow for dram. A quick Google suggests that this is something to do with "memory training" and it's just something that happens with DDR5, however there is a bios setting I can change so that it doesn't have to do this every boot (memory context or something). Is it safe to enable this or should I leave it off and just put up with the long boot times?
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May 10, 2024 18:25
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Yeah you can turn it on. It just uses the last known good memory configuration. If that starts causing problems down the line just turn memory context restore back off and it will re-train the memory again. This part about DDR5 memory wasn’t obvious to me before hand either.
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May 10, 2024 18:28
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Hey thread. I currently got an Asus PRIME X570-PRO motherboard with a Ryzen 5 3600 and an SE-224-XT Basic for cooling. As far as I understand it, that motherboard is still good for any Socket AM4 cpus, right? I saw this Ryzen 7 5800X heavily discounted on Amazon and was considering pulling the trigger on it but I'm completely out of the loop lately so I got no idea if it's a good upgrade at that price or if there's anything better I should be aiming for. I got a 3070ti and I mostly play stuff in 1080p/60+hz (got a gsync monitor so I just aim for 60 and if it goes higher than that, even better ).Thanks in advance.
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May 11, 2024 00:04
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It's a good deal for that chip, no doubt - not the absolute top-tier in gaming performance on the AM4 (that would be the $308 5800X3D or the slightly less juicy but much more reasonably priced $230 5700X3D) but still a great performer and a significant upgrade over the 3600 The SE-224-XT should still be sufficient for cooling under gaming loads, though the fan might run a fair bit harder than you're used to
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May 11, 2024 00:19
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That sounds good, cheers. I'll go for the 5800x; 175 sounds like a good price point for an upgrade.
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May 11, 2024 01:09
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Fractal Design has some of their cases on sale on Newegg right now, including the thread favorites Pop Air and Pop Mini Air. https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...t=6586531631684
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May 11, 2024 20:57
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What country are you in? Canada Do you live near Microcenter? No What are you using the system for? VR and desktop gaming, movie watching, some hobbyist music production. Been using Ableton Live 11 for that. What's your budget? Roughly $3000 CAD maybe a tad more if I must. That's currently roughly $2200 USD. If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution / refresh rate? My monitor is 4K@60hz, I'd likely upgrade in a year or so though for better picture quality and refresh rate. I'd like to stick with 4k for movies and that. Maybe too soon to ask for suggestions if I'm not buying this yet. How fancy do you want your graphics, from “it runs” to “Ultra preset as fast as possible”? I'm looking for it to be as ultra as I can for now and will likely have this thing for a decade, but at least for 5 years. I know I won't be gaming through all that and usually pick up a console at that point for modern gaming. I do want parts that last though so I can keep using the thing for other average tasks. Icza fucked around with this message at 08:02 on May 12, 2024 |
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May 12, 2024 07:59
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I think this is probably as good as you can get for the price point you specified. Really the only improvement over this would be a 4090, but that would be most of your budget by itself. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D 4.2 GHz 8-Core Processor ($488.98 @ Amazon Canada) CPU Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($41.90 @ Amazon Canada) Motherboard: Gigabyte B650M GAMING PLUS WF Micro ATX AM5 Motherboard ($179.99 @ Canada Computers) Memory: TEAMGROUP T-Force Vulcan 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory ($134.99 @ Amazon Canada) Storage: Samsung 990 Pro 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($264.97 @ Amazon Canada) Video Card: Asus ProArt OC GeForce RTX 4080 SUPER 16 GB Video Card ($1499.00 @ Canada Computers) Case: Fractal Design Pop Air ATX Mid Tower Case ($114.99 @ Canada Computers) Power Supply: Corsair RM850x (2021) 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($163.90 @ Vuugo) Total: $2888.72 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-05-12 10:58 EDT-0400
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May 12, 2024 15:59
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Apologies in advance if I should be posting this in tech support but I thought I'd try here first. I've been having really annoying stability issues with my PC basically ever since I built it over 3 years ago and I've never been able to get to the bottom of them. The first problem I noticed was if I used sleep mode half the time the PC would crash and reboot like 10-15 seconds after coming out of sleep. Along with some other issues I thought this meant a faulty motherboard so I replaced that shortly after finishing my build but the issue persisted, so I just stopped using sleep. Then I found that certain games would cause the PC to crash. Sometimes it would crash just the game to desktop but more often that not it would be abrupt total shutdowns. No Man's Sky was the first I remember having big issues with. The crashes felt totally random, sometimes I could play for hours and others a few minutes. I should add temps and everything for the build have always been fine in HWinfo. RDR2 was the other big culprit. Again, sometimes it would crash after 5 minutes, other times hours. It got so dispiriting that at times I've definitely avoided playing games on there at all because I'm nervous about the crashing. Weirdly, some games are totally stable - I've put hundreds of hours into Witcher 3 without any pattern of crashes, and I've played through plenty of other graphically intensive games no problem. At the moment I've been playing Outer Worlds, which runs hot but fine, Stardew Valley which is fine, Jedi Survivor which is crash-city (weirdly it ran totally fine for 2 or 3 hours when I first installed it, now it's a poo poo show), and Grounded which crashed twice during my first session playing with my friend the other night. At first I blamed the games themselves for being unreliable, but as I've tried out all the individual game fixes I could find online and nothing worked I have to come to the conclusion it's a hardware or software problem instead. I've done so much on the software side to try to fix it - reinstalling windows, updating to 11, updating BIOS and drivers, removing all undervolting/PBO, that I'm convinced it must be a hardware issue. Something else weird about the crashes - the screen goes dark, the RGB goes off on the GPU, but the system light on the power button stays lit and the fans on everything are still running. I have to hold the power button for 5 seconds to shut it off properly. Also, another very weird thing that it sometimes does, is when powering the system back on, it boots into BIOS and not Windows, and the only way I can make it recognise windows again is to do a hard power cycle (turning the PSU off, pressing the power button a couple of times to discharge the capacitors and then turning it back on again). So, I've run memtest to check the RAM and that's fine, the motherboard was replaced early on, which leads me to think it must be a power issue? Relevant system specs are: 5600x Gigabyte B550i aorus pro board 32GB crucial ballistix 3200 RAM FE RTX 3080 Corsair SF600 platinum I'm wondering if my 3080 is power spiking under certain loads which the SF600 can't handle? How should I be troubleshooting to figure out the root of the problem? I don't really know what I'm looking for in event viewer or if there's any other ways to monitor what's happening. Thanks if you read all of this and have any suggestions.
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May 12, 2024 18:38
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I'd say it's a very high likelihood that it's the 600W PSU to blame. Ampere cards are very spikey in their power draw, and the 3080 can trip overpower protections on even 750W PSUs if they're overly sensitive. Corsair's PSUs are typically not sensitive enough to run into this problem if you have a normal wattage, but you're running a very low-wattage PSU for that GPU, so it may be happening anyway.
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May 12, 2024 18:45
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:I'd say it's a very high likelihood that it's the 600W PSU to blame. Ampere cards are very spikey in their power draw, and the 3080 can trip overpower protections on even 750W PSUs if they're overly sensitive. Corsair's PSUs are typically not sensitive enough to run into this problem if you have a normal wattage, but you're running a very low-wattage PSU for that GPU, so it may be happening anyway. Going to second this. It sounds most likely to be an issue with the PSU. I've personally got a Cooler Master V850 SFX, and I'd recommend it if you're needing an SFX PSU. Other possible issue is if you're using the pig-tails on your PSU cables going to the GPU, you might try using a single cable per plug on the GPU.
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May 12, 2024 19:00
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I have another PC with a 750W ATX power supply that I could transplant the guts of my ITX PC into and run it for a while to see if the crashes go away, before taking the plunge on a new SFF PSU. If I do need to buy one I figure I'll shoot for at least 850W and a 12VHPWR connector for future upgrades.Branch Nvidian posted:I've personally got a Cooler Master V850 SFX, and I'd recommend it if you're needing an SFX PSU. How are the cables? Individually sleeved or not? The cables on the platinum Corsair SFX PSUs are great and really helped in the limited space Butterfly Valley fucked around with this message at 19:53 on May 12, 2024 |
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May 12, 2024 19:47
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Butterfly Valley posted:How are the cables? Individually sleeved or not? The cables on the platinum Corsair SFX PSUs are great and really helped in the limited space They’re bog-standard, not individually sleeved, and they’re a bit shorter than what you’d expect from an ATX PSU.
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May 12, 2024 20:50
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The RTX 3080 transients can hit well over 400 W I think? Yeah that's going to be a challenge. Have you ever tried to power-limit the card with the problematic games? If you want to keep the cables (and Corsair also sells a 12VHPWR cable you attach directly to the PSU if you upgrade the GPU) the SF750 is still good and can handle transients over 900 W. For months now there have been rumours Corsair is going to release a successor to the SFX series, but they haven'tt materialized and their SFX-L models are not that good. E: Oops, not RTX 3080 Ti 
orcane fucked around with this message at 20:59 on May 12, 2024 |
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May 12, 2024 20:57
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I'm trying to upgrade my gaming rig piecemeal - first monitor, then graphics card, then CPU/motherboard/RAM down the line. So far I have a new 4k monitor with a tower that hasn't been upgraded since 2017, and I am eyeing a new graphics card. My current specs are i7-8700k OC @ 4.9 Vega 56 16GB DDR4-3200 RAM I've been playing some less graphically intensive and indie stuff lately and it works great. I even average ~40fps in baldur's gate 3 on 4k low settings. But eventually I want to play stuff like Elden Ring, Death Stranding, etc. So I have two questions. First, since I game on Linux and don't care much about ray tracing, it seems my definitive best option here is the 7900 XTX, which I would love to get for less than $800 out the door sometime soon. Is this basically the one and only thing I should be looking at? The 4090 is near twice as expensive and the 4080 only looks better if you do frame generation, ray tracing, etc. Am I right to be more concerned about VRAM, raw performance, and avoiding nvidia on Linux? Second, how bad would my processor bottleneck be to pair the 8700k with the 7900 XTX for the time being? Some bottleneck calculators online seem to suggest I only lose ~20 frames between the 8700k and 14900k, which is not much in the grand scheme of things. And that doesn't take into account my over clock. Is there any other reason I would want to avoid this pairing or some other limitation I should be aware of? Thanks
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May 12, 2024 22:45
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orcane posted:The RTX 3080 transients can hit well over 400 W I think? Yeah that's going to be a challenge. Have you ever tried to power-limit the card with the problematic games? I hadn't but I just did now (80% limit set in MSI afterburner) and it made Jedi Survivor immediately crash upon loading twice, and then I tried once more with an undervolt and it lasted 15 minutes or so before crashing again. Should I be doing anything specific or should lowering the lower limit be sufficient? I think I'll just order a new PSU off Amazon and try that for a few weeks and then if that doesn't work I can return it fairly easily at least. I'll go for the Asus ROG Loki 850W as that's the cheapest one with the 12VHPWR connector bar a thermalright one which has multiple terrible reviews for coil whine.
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May 12, 2024 23:14
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Branch Nvidian posted:I think this is probably as good as you can get for the price point you specified. Really the only improvement over this would be a 4090, but that would be most of your budget by itself. Thanks a lot. That looks great to me.
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May 12, 2024 23:36
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A Bag of Milk posted:So I have two questions. First, since I game on Linux and don't care much about ray tracing, it seems my definitive best option here is the 7900 XTX, which I would love to get for less than $800 out the door sometime soon. Is this basically the one and only thing I should be looking at? The 4090 is near twice as expensive and the 4080 only looks better if you do frame generation, ray tracing, etc. Am I right to be more concerned about VRAM, raw performance, and avoiding nvidia on Linux? Someone with a very similar situation asked a while ago and what I said then is still largely accurate, except the prices have moved down a smidgen: quote:7900 XTX: Will get you what you're looking for and a little extra to grow; $900+ A Bag of Milk posted:Second, how bad would my processor bottleneck be to pair the 8700k with the 7900 XTX for the time being? Some bottleneck calculators online seem to suggest I only lose ~20 frames between the 8700k and 14900k, which is not much in the grand scheme of things. And that doesn't take into account my over clock. Is there any other reason I would want to avoid this pairing or some other limitation I should be aware of? Thanks 20 frames could be, like, a quarter of your performance - and if your losing that much, why spend that much money on a graphics card? The 8700k will probably still be adequate as a "for now" processor (I am currently using one as my primary gaming computer! it's fine!) but if you're dropping that much money on a graphics card then definitely be considering it a future investment towards a total overhaul. edit: but no there shouldn't be any actual, like, conflict or functional problem or anything edit2: this just reminded me, HUB did a video on this very subject recently! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=98RR0FVQeqs DoombatINC fucked around with this message at 03:54 on May 13, 2024 |
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May 13, 2024 03:41
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Yeah, Coffee Lake is still a perfectly competent processor (it's got AVX2, it's got virtualization stuff, it's got a decently sized cache) and the 8700k is a hyperthreaded hexa-core which is all you need (and then some) these days for game stuff, but it's still gonna be blowing out seven candles this October and it's still got a third of the transitors/physical calculation hardware of, say, a 7800X3D. You may not need the additional hardware right now depending on your use-case, but the end of that processor's useful life is getting closer. I would definitely at least consider budgeting for a fuller system replacement Still, Bag of Milk, for your use case and current circumstances, I'd say the 7900 XT is what you're looking for. The XTX probably isn't going to dip below US$800 any time soon, if ever; if you're looking to spend less than that, you'll want to "settle" for a 7900 XT (which still, like, out-shoots a freaking GF 4070 Ti SUPER in pure raster performance). It's going to be all the performance you'll need for a long, long time, and you'll be very happy with the performance of things like BG3, Elden Ring, Death Stranding and the like.
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May 13, 2024 04:17
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What country are you in? USA Do you live near Microcenter? No What are you using the system for? 80% internet browsing, Excel, small amount of home video editing, typical desktop stuff 20% games. I don't need much for games, I play Balder's Gate 3, Starcraft 2, occasionally a game that's released free on Epic store. I would love to play at 1440p 144hz, but that probably means I need to spend $600 on just the graphics card. What's your budget? ~$1200 with some wiggle room ($200). I feel like such an old man, graphics cards are just too drat expensive! *shakes fist* Arc 750 for $200 seems like a great value, but it has issues with DirectX11. I'm thinking about keeping the same GTX 1070 card from my old system and buy a new $400-500 card in 2025. I wish I could just get a RTX2080 for cheap. System will be purchased in late June, so if there is a new part coming out soon, I can wait until July. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: Intel Core i5-14500 2.6 GHz 14-Core Processor ($239.99 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($33.90 @ Amazon) Motherboard: ASRock B760M-H/M.2 Micro ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($89.99 @ Amazon) Memory: Corsair Vengeance 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory ($114.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Samsung 980 Pro 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($169.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Seagate Barracuda Compute 2 TB 3.5" 7200 RPM Internal Hard Drive ($64.98 @ Amazon) Video Card: Acer Predator BiFrost OC Arc A750 8 GB Video Card ($199.99 @ Newegg) Video Card: Asus LP BRK OC GeForce RTX 3050 6GB 6 GB Video Card ($199.99 @ Newegg) Case: Fractal Design Torrent ATX Mid Tower Case ($189.99 @ B&H) Power Supply: Corsair RM750e (2023) 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($99.99 @ Amazon) Total: $1403.80 I only need one graphics card, I was just unsure what to get. Feel free to change anything, AMD chip, whatever's the best bang for my buck. I've been Intel/nvidia for 20+ years, but I'm sure AMD is fine. Motherboard: Asrock B660M Pro RS has all the features I need: Intel Gigabit LAN, super fast SSD, 32gb ram, newest USB connections, a few SATA connections https://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/B660M%20Pro%20RS/index.asp Doesn't NEED to be Micro ATX, heck, it could be ITX, full ATX. I'm down for whatever. I really wanted a Supermicro motherboard, but they are so drat expensive. I have to admit, I am a little paranoid about modern motherboards forcing Bios/Windows updates, and other government spying built into my computer. I'm being irrational I guess ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ SA Forums Poster fucked around with this message at 10:54 on May 13, 2024 |
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May 13, 2024 10:48
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SA Forums Poster posted:Video Card: Acer Predator BiFrost OC Arc A750 8 GB Video Card ($199.99 @ Newegg) You can get an RTX 4060 for $299, which you're going to be happier with in every possible way. Unless you have your heart set on that specific case, you can save the $70-80 on the case and pick up a Lian Li Lancool 216. It's a spectacular case with good airflow, and it's very easy to work in.
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May 13, 2024 14:19
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There's a RX 6750 XT on sale for under $295 (with promo code) which is far more powerful than any of those cards and can actually do some entry-level 1440p gaming, but if you can find another few bucks then the RX 6800 on sale for $370 and will definitely provide a better 1440p experience
DoombatINC fucked around with this message at 17:56 on May 13, 2024 |
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May 13, 2024 16:23
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SA Forums Poster posted:I only need one graphics card, I was just unsure what to get. Seconding the above post. The Fractal Torrent is excessive for such an average PC, and there are a few areas where you can cut costs and spend that money on the GPU instead. The Ryzen 7600X is much cheaper than the 14500 currently, for instance, while not really being noticeably slower at any of the things you will be doing with the PC. I'd also probably skimp out on the motherboard a bit less. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 7600X 4.7 GHz 6-Core Processor ($159.00 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($33.90 @ Amazon) Motherboard: ASRock B650M Pro RS Micro ATX AM5 Motherboard ($134.99 @ Newegg) Memory: G.Skill Flare X5 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory ($104.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Western Digital Black SN850X w/Heatsink 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($144.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Seagate Barracuda Compute 2 TB 3.5" 7200 RPM Internal Hard Drive ($64.98 @ Amazon) Video Card: Zotac Twin Edge OC GeForce RTX 4060 8 GB Video Card ($289.99 @ Newegg) Case: Lian Li LANCOOL 216 ATX Mid Tower Case ($94.00 @ Newegg Sellers) Power Supply: Corsair RM750x (2021) 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($99.99 @ Amazon) Total: $1126.83 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-05-13 11:02 EDT-0400 This is actually cheaper than the list you posted even with just one of the GPUs while being considerably faster at gaming and not really any slower at web browsing and general desktop stuff. This motherboard has an additional m.2 slot for extra SSD storage, more USB support, and 2.5G ethernet in case you ever want to upgrade your home network or go beyond gigabit internet. I also swapped the power supply to a better one that's currently the same price as the previous one. And a quick note about the HDD: 2TB drives are a pretty poor value these days, and you can get a 4TB drive from the same brand for $20 more. The peak of the value curve these days is somewhere around 8TB for $120 - $130 but obviously don't spend that much if you don't need it. About automatic updates and stuff, forced BIOS updates aren't really a thing on DIY computers. I've only ever seen that on prebuilt PCs from like Dell or HP. And forced windows updates is a windows problem, that'll happen no matter what unless you change some windows settings. Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 16:59 on May 13, 2024 |
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May 13, 2024 16:28
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Quick follow up to my processor question a few posts up, since power supply chatter was brought up: I currently got an Asus PRIME X570-PRO motherboard with this Ryzen 7 5800X (waiting for it to arrive) an SE-224-XT Basic for cooling and a 3070ti for a gfx My power supply is a Corsair M650x; should I be thinking about replacing it? If so, what do I go for? If it's another modular corsair, will I be able to just swap the supply itself and plug in my existing cables into it? They're the nice meshed ones from the 650. Thanks a bunch!
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May 13, 2024 16:50
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Edmond Dantes posted:If it's another modular corsair, will I be able to just swap the supply itself and plug in my existing cables into it? They're the nice meshed ones from the 650. Assuming it's not super old, I wouldn't replace it without running it for a while and seeing if you have any stability issues. The 3070ti and 5800 aren't too power hungry and 650W should be enough overhead. If you replace it, Corsair specifically do have a cable compatibility chart on their site so you can see if it's safe to leave the cables and just swap out the unit - specifically with Corsair this should usually be fine with most of their recent models, but absolutely check the chart to be sure.
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May 13, 2024 16:58
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Butterfly Valley posted:Assuming it's not super old yeah, about that...   /edit: Checked the compatibility chart, the RMXs from 2021 should be compatible, the "Shift" ones use type 5 cables (whatever that means), and the cables actually connect to the side of the PSU instead of the front, so those are a no-go with my case. Edmond Dantes fucked around with this message at 17:27 on May 13, 2024 |
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May 13, 2024 17:04
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Thanks! Ditched the SATA drive and upgraded the 4060 to a ASRock Challenger OC Radeon RX 7800 XT 16 GB Video Card This should handle 1440p! $1251, thanks everyone!
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May 13, 2024 17:34
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DoombatINC posted:There's a RX 6750 XT on sale for under $255 (with promo code) which is far more powerful than any of those cards and can actually do some entry-level 1440p gaming, but if you can find another few bucks then the RX 6800 on sale for $370 and will definitely provide a better 1440p experience I see this as $295 (only for Newegg + subscribers, $305 for everyone else) which is still a decent price but I'm curious if it was $255 for a few minutes somehow.
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May 13, 2024 17:44
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Twerk from Home posted:I see this as $295 (only for Newegg + subscribers, $305 for everyone else) which is still a decent price but I'm curious if it was $255 for a few minutes somehow. That was a typo, thanks for catching it!
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May 13, 2024 17:56
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Thanks, really great info
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May 14, 2024 05:36
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orcane posted:The RTX 3080 transients can hit well over 400 W I think? Yeah that's going to be a challenge. Have you ever tried to power-limit the card with the problematic games? I just used the power limiter baked into geforce experience, 80% again, and this time it worked for an hour before I quit. I'll give it a bit more of a stress test (and try RDR2) then if it seems that's done it I guess I know I need a bigger PSU. The easiest move would be going for the Corsair SF750 so I don't have to replace the cables, but it's either sold out or expensive near me, plus idk if 150W extra is enough overhead. There's a decently rated, relatively cheap EVGA SFX 850W option but it doesn't have the new 12VHPWR connector, and the ASUS ROG Loki 850W that does is SFX-L and that extra 2.5cm of length will really gently caress with my cable management as the cables are already close to being eaten by the rear fan on the FE 3080.
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May 14, 2024 18:33
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