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mllaneza
Apr 28, 2007

Veteran, Bermuda Triangle Expeditionary Force, 1993-1952




Antoine Silvere posted:

Painted and put together the HG YF-19 a little while back:
Pretty happy with how it came out, especially the Isamu figure:


I did the battroid parts too but was too lazy to transform it for pictures this time around. I’ll display it in battroid mode fighting the YF-21 once I get around to painting that….whenever that is :negative:

The YF-19 is such a sweet, sweet kit. Nice paint job!

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Buck Wildman
Mar 30, 2010

I am Metango, Galactic Governor


Kibner posted:

I think it’s always a flat $10 per shipment?

correct, flat $10 for no-sign shipping

Gripweed
Nov 8, 2018
Women are wonderful animals, they should be making music and writing novels about having a complex relationship with your mother.

Kibner posted:

I think it’s always a flat $10 per shipment?

Buck Wildman posted:

correct, flat $10 for no-sign shipping

Goddamn. For some reason I'd been assuming it must be nuts, like 25 bucks for an HG or something.

Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

Mr Teatime posted:

Upon further testing it isn’t even the artists spirit. The varnish is coming off with gentle rubbing. The regular acrylic gloss coat I put down on another model at the same time is bomb proof as usual…am I missing something about polyeurthane because this is like the opposite of durable.

once it fully cures its really hard. how long has it been on?

Buck Wildman
Mar 30, 2010

I am Metango, Galactic Governor


Gripweed posted:

Goddamn. For some reason I'd been assuming it must be nuts, like 25 bucks for an HG or something.

It's not weight-based at all afaik. I once got three PGs and an HG in one shipment :10bux:

MechaX
Nov 19, 2011

"Let's be positive! Let's start a fire!"
On the bright side, it’s $10 for everything, any size

On the bad side, it’s going to be with FedEx so it’ll probably be man-handled a little more than something like UPS in my experience (I’ve never received anything with the actual gunpla parts flat out damaged, but you can tell some of these boxes were tossed around a bit and damaged a little)

BisbyWorl
Jan 12, 2019

Knowledge is pain plus observation.


Gripweed posted:

Goddamn. For some reason I'd been assuming it must be nuts, like 25 bucks for an HG or something.

The main issue is trying to get a P Bandai kit if you aren't in a supported country, at which point you're looking at paying for shipping to a third party company then paying shipping + import for that company to send it to you.

kirbysuperstar
Nov 11, 2012

Let the fools who stand before us be destroyed by the power you and I possess.

quote:

Thank you for using Private Warehouse.

This is a reminder of our 6-month storage limit. While we ask that every customer ship in 2 months, the bonus extension allows everyone enough time to bundle and ship their items, while ensuring we have enough space in our warehouse for your new incoming orders.

Items stored in Private Warehouse for over 6 months will be automatically cancelled by the end of the month! We don’t want you to miss out on the collectibles you spent your hard-earned cash on, so please check your Private Warehouse to review any long-term stored items and ship them before they’re automatically canceled.

Huh.

Nuebot
Feb 18, 2013

The developer of Brigador is a secret chud, don't give him money

MechaX posted:

On the bright side, it’s $10 for everything, any size

On the bad side, it’s going to be with FedEx so it’ll probably be man-handled a little more than something like UPS in my experience (I’ve never received anything with the actual gunpla parts flat out damaged, but you can tell some of these boxes were tossed around a bit and damaged a little)

Yeah my boxes have arrived in rough shape, and often left outside in weird places where I nearly missed them but the plastic inside has been safe.

Waffleman_
Jan 20, 2011


I don't wanna I don't wanna I don't wanna I don't wanna!!!

When I did the Gundam Rose, I just had Fedex drop it off at the Walgreens near my condo since they can hold Fedex packages there

Big Bizness
Jun 19, 2019

I'm wondering if the combo of Mr Mark Setter and Softer are enough on their own, without a top coat, to keep the water slides attached to the project I'm finishing up. I used three different kinds of paints and neither of the top-coat options I currently have access to are compatible with all three of them. I do have the gloss coat gundam marker on the way which should be here within a week or so, and from what I understand that one is water based versus the usual alcohol based GM markers. I would use it with the GM airbrush. But what would a water-based top coat do to waterslides? Wouldn't it reactivate them and mess everything up? I'm going to do a test before the real deal once it arrives of course but if anyone has any input on this kind of situation it would be appreciated.

Mr Teatime
Apr 7, 2009

Synthbuttrange posted:

once it fully cures its really hard. how long has it been on?

At least 48 hours. I thinned it 50/50 with Vallejo thinner (as stated to do in their own dang video for the product) so either that was a terrible idea or the cure time on this is wildly impractical. Never had this issue with their regular or mecha varnish :/.

Buck Wildman
Mar 30, 2010

I am Metango, Galactic Governor


Big Bizness posted:

I'm wondering if the combo of Mr Mark Setter and Softer are enough on their own, without a top coat, to keep the water slides attached to the project I'm finishing up. I used three different kinds of paints and neither of the top-coat options I currently have access to are compatible with all three of them. I do have the gloss coat gundam marker on the way which should be here within a week or so, and from what I understand that one is water based versus the usual alcohol based GM markers. I would use it with the GM airbrush. But what would a water-based top coat do to waterslides? Wouldn't it reactivate them and mess everything up? I'm going to do a test before the real deal once it arrives of course but if anyone has any input on this kind of situation it would be appreciated.

setter/softer is enough to get the decals firmly adhered, but it's always a good idea to seal and protect them with a topcoat just to preserve them against wear over time. a matte topcoat in particular will also help obscure any flaking/distortion from the chemicals and make it look a lot more natural. a water-based topcoat will not reactivate the decals - I just sprayed a model I'm finishing up with the water-based Mr. Hobby flat topcoat yesterday and it's a-ok

Big Bizness
Jun 19, 2019

Buck Wildman posted:

setter/softer is enough to get the decals firmly adhered, but it's always a good idea to seal and protect them with a topcoat just to preserve them against wear over time. a matte topcoat in particular will also help obscure any flaking/distortion from the chemicals and make it look a lot more natural. a water-based topcoat will not reactivate the decals - I just sprayed a model I'm finishing up with the water-based Mr. Hobby flat topcoat yesterday and it's a-ok

Aye, just trying to figure out how to do this without ruining some of the paints I've got on there. It's a combo of Colorshot spray, sharpie and gundam marker. The latter 2 melted when I tested them with Mr Top Coat Premium in both matte and gloss, as well as the Colorshot Gloss finish. Google seems to suggest that the non-premium Mr Top Coats are less hot and compatible with more stuff but I don't have that on hand. I don't plan on touching this kit very much once I'm done, but I have put a ton of time into it and I'm super happy with how it looks so far and I really don't want to blow it at the last step. I might just bite the bullet and mask the GM and sharpie bits while I top coat everything else with the nice Colorshot gloss finish. They have some beautiful metallic sprays (I used Designer Sunglasses for this one) and their gloss works well at maintaining that sheen.

Cat Hatter
Oct 24, 2006

Hatters gonna hat.
If nothing else, there's no reason you couldn't throw some paint and an "extra" ver. Ka decal on a plastic spoon and see how everything plays together.

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012



Could always give the current iteration of Future a shot. Can't remember what it is right now. Quick Shine? Jon Bius did a YouTube on it.

monsterzero
May 12, 2002
-=TOPGUN=-
Boys who love airplanes :respek: Boys who love boys
Lipstick Apathy

Warmachine posted:

Could always give the current iteration of Future a shot. Can't remember what it is right now. Quick Shine? Jon Bius did a YouTube on it.

Yeah, QuickShine Multi-Surface Floor Finish. And btw, F this stuff for being better than my $15 rattlecan of Vallejo gloss varnish.

I brushed it on this SD Gramps before panel lining and it went on smoothly and dried fast.

QuickShine deserves none of the blame for this. It was my first time hand painting, using Tamiya panel liner and the .3mm scribe.

Midjack
Dec 24, 2007




They used to auto ship at 60 days regardless of anything but relaxed it these last few years. 6 months is plenty of time to consolidate a shipment from multiple orders.

kirbysuperstar
Nov 11, 2012

Let the fools who stand before us be destroyed by the power you and I possess.

Midjack posted:

They used to auto ship at 60 days regardless of anything but relaxed it these last few years. 6 months is plenty of time to consolidate a shipment from multiple orders.

Yeah the main thing is it's not auto ship anymore according to that, it's cancelled

TheMightyBoops
Nov 1, 2016

In celebration of Seed: Freedom being a beautiful disaster here’s the SD Strike I finished. I’ll probably take a hiatus from kits again for a bit, I had fun with the little series of SD guys I did over the past month or so though:



Edit: oh btw of the 3 SD kits I did the SD Wing and Strike seemed to be manufactured or ran around the same time. They had great instructions/paint guides and were both really great kits.


The SD Gundam X Arsene from SD Gundam worlds had slightly worse instructions, the kit doesn’t articulate well in any way and it didn’t even have a runner for rubber parts like most other kits will have, just all pvc.

TheMightyBoops fucked around with this message at 02:41 on May 17, 2024

JoeGlassJAw
Apr 9, 2010

i love seeing all the SD cuties. was sort of disappointed the already sparse MG line decided to branch out into an SD gimmick but after seeing the MGSD EW Wing Zero announced I'm bought in. can't wait to build it

Kibner
Oct 21, 2008

Acguy Supremacy

TheMightyBoops posted:

Edit: oh btw of the 3 SD kits I did the SD Wing and Strike seemed to be manufactured or ran around the same time. They had great instructions/paint guides and were both really great kits.


The SD Gundam X Arsene from SD Gundam worlds had slightly worse instructions, the kit doesn’t articulate well in any way and it didn’t even have a runner for rubber parts like most other kits will have, just all pvc.

If you want to look up things like that, this site is a godsend: https://www.gundammates.com

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

Kibner posted:

If you want to look up things like that, this site is a godsend: https://www.gundammates.com

That stinking website both is a showcase, and a concentration of my shame.

.. it was nice to put my PGU on it.

Speaking of which, I thought I might share the story of how I got a PGU. And it helping me hold my sanity together.

Recently, there was a meme going around, of the sommelier from John Wick.. with various backgrounds. One came up with a wall of gundam behind him. Of course I shared this with the people I care about. My note was "Opens wallet.."

Specifically, I sent it to a gun-nut friend of mine, as this clearly crosses the genres. "Hey, so.. what's the Uber Gundam cost?" Causing me to fall into a adhd fueled rant starting off with "well.. $20 to 300 for most models.. but I swear that there should be an Uber Gundam. There's Freedom, Justice," As I hit return on the second paragraph his reply came through. "Hey, I just sent you the first half of your cat sitting fee. If that turned into a gundam I wouldn't say anything.."

So.. I went and got a PGU. As I was driving back I got a call from my mom "Can you please come visit?" Meaning I spent most of that Friday night doing family tech support and covering for medical ineptitude.

The timing was pretty good. My mom was released from rehab to early, which lead to a very strange weekend. And bringing her back to the ER, and eventually me spending a few nights parent-sitting at her independent living home. I know it's a non sequitur, but monitor your elderly's drugs closely. Some collection of "medical experts" had her on twice daily Xanax for most of a decade, and Trazadone at bedtime, and now we're dealing with detox. It's a special form of hell. Also, get your POA's and end of life wishes sorted. Have the talks now before you can't have them. That's where I was three weeks ago.

The PGU got me through several nights of monitoring her. So yay? My mom thought it was really cool. As she woke up in the middle of the night she'd see it in different stages of completion. It took me three nights to do? I still have a night of doing decals left on it.

I'll get pictures later but I didn't do anything special on my PGU, didn't even panel line it. But it's a stunning piece of work. Another side note, carrying gunpla through a retirement home gets some really interested questions from onlookers. I made some old people smile.

Edit:
The piles were.. massive.


Just the plastic bags..


My first thought, was that these are the size of a newborns hands.


Standing for the first time.


I was deeply disappointed in the lack of undergating, right till I got to the N runners. The painted and chrome runners both have undergating.


Finally, in some sort of a pose.


In general, I think Bandai's photoetch is trash. It sticks better to the backing. The sticky side is .. indeterminate. The decal set is.. not great? I would have loved more detail decals, and the ones that you put on the inner frame are not sized right for the places they go. The fact they tell you to install the metal backed decals over the light pipes doesn't make any sense.

The tips of the trigger fingers do not hold in, and need to be glued. The light up beam saber broke on mine. (in an easy way, just indicates poor gluing from bandai..) The sight mount on the beam rifle is questionable. I expected a set of flexible hands. And while it does come with four complete sets of hands, none of them are mobile.

The PGU in general, is a very easy build. Easier than the MGEX Freedom.

Nerobro fucked around with this message at 11:01 on May 17, 2024

The Muffinlord
Mar 3, 2007

newbid stupie?
The kit looks good. The PGU(pronounced "p'goo") is a great build, and looks amazing just about anywhere. It was my first experience with PE parts, and I did find it frustrating how they'd made them basically impossible to tell which side was front. Thankfully, there aren't many, but they're pretty visible on the final build, so it's not like you can really leave them off.

I'm sorry to hear about your mom. My dad's got a wasting disease, and thankfully my mom's able to care for him, but it's been nerve-wracking. At least it sounds like you're able to give her some of the help she needs.

My own project has stalled out, due to weather-related reasons; I need it dry enough out that I can spray topcoat and paint the rifles that go on the wings of this thing.





TheMightyBoops
Nov 1, 2016

Kibner posted:

If you want to look up things like that, this site is a godsend: https://www.gundammates.com

Cool, bookmarking.


Quick question:
So I tried using painters tape to make it a little less sloppy but the paint just bled under the tape. I did stick and unstick it on the table a bunch to make the adhesive less sticky. Is there a way to avoid it bleeding through, should I just stick it right on maybe?

It’s just blue painters tape from the grocery store.

Midjack
Dec 24, 2007



TheMightyBoops posted:

Cool, bookmarking.


Quick question:
So I tried using painters tape to make it a little less sloppy but the paint just bled under the tape. I did stick and unstick it on the table a bunch to make the adhesive less sticky. Is there a way to avoid it bleeding through, should I just stick it right on maybe?

It’s just blue painters tape from the grocery store.

Press it down with a toothpick around the edges and then spray the border with the color that's under the tape to further seal it.

Marx Headroom
May 10, 2007

AT LAST! A show with nonono commercials!
Fallen Rib
You can also spray the border with clear coat if you don't want to risk overspray! Same general idea.

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

TheMightyBoops posted:

Cool, bookmarking.


Quick question:
So I tried using painters tape to make it a little less sloppy but the paint just bled under the tape. I did stick and unstick it on the table a bunch to make the adhesive less sticky. Is there a way to avoid it bleeding through, should I just stick it right on maybe?

It’s just blue painters tape from the grocery store.

The difference between "good" masking tape, and the stuff they sell for painting walls is huge. The blue stuff is designed to not stick very well. Beige stuff is full strength adhesive. A roll of tamiya masking tape is $3.50 or something, and will really help you, it's really the best thing you can use. I've also seen washi tape used, and you'll have the same result. (and you can get that at Michaels or target or walmart) As noted earlier, putting some clear, or painting again in the underlying color will seal it down and prevent bleed.

TheMightyBoops
Nov 1, 2016

Thanks everyone.

I lied and also picked up an SD Freedom (not the MG).

Mr E
Sep 18, 2007

Tamiya tape is great for small masking and I've found the "Frog Tape" brand of painter's tape is great for large masking.

Cat Hatter
Oct 24, 2006

Hatters gonna hat.
I think the last time I had to do a bunch of masking I used Tamiya tape for the edges and then filled in the rest of the area with blue painters tape because I'm cheap.

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

Cat Hatter posted:

I think the last time I had to do a bunch of masking I used Tamiya tape for the edges and then filled in the rest of the area with blue painters tape because I'm cheap.

This is what I do for masking - Tamiya for the edge, then masking tape or even just paper for the rest.

For irregular shapes like camo, Silly Putty is also good

Big Bizness
Jun 19, 2019

Cthulu Carl posted:

For irregular shapes like camo, Silly Putty is also good

Awesome tip, going to use this someday

Mr E
Sep 18, 2007

I've used silly putty for camo patterns on a tank before and it works great, they make stuff specifically for that kinda thing but I've found silly putty works just as well.

Durr Kommissar
Jan 25, 2010
Today marks my first big “WHOOPS” moment in gunpla. Finished the RG 00 Qan[T] with no problems and launched right into the RG Wing Zero EW.

Within a day of working on it, I lost the little inverted wrench piece that connects the leg/knee armor to the inner frame, and can’t find it anywhere. Doesn’t help that the piece is grey and matches the carpet in my room precisely.

Hoping I luck out and randomly find it the next day like I did with the green head jewel in the Qan[T] bc uhhhh, that’s some significant “battle damage” to have on the finished kit.

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012



Durr Kommissar posted:

Today marks my first big “WHOOPS” moment in gunpla. Finished the RG 00 Qan[T] with no problems and launched right into the RG Wing Zero EW.

Within a day of working on it, I lost the little inverted wrench piece that connects the leg/knee armor to the inner frame, and can’t find it anywhere. Doesn’t help that the piece is grey and matches the carpet in my room precisely.

Hoping I luck out and randomly find it the next day like I did with the green head jewel in the Qan[T] bc uhhhh, that’s some significant “battle damage” to have on the finished kit.

The carpet monster taketh its due.

Big Bizness
Jun 19, 2019

Don't give up!

I was painting pieces in my yard and a teeny tiny little piece fell into grass that was nearly 3 inches tall. A trick I used, same for whenever I break some glass and I'm trying to make sure I don't miss any pieces, is use a small flashlight at ground level to try and not only illuminate the area I'm searching but to hopefully catch a reflection of light off of the object. If I can find that, so can you!

Midjack
Dec 24, 2007



Big Bizness posted:

Don't give up!

I was painting pieces in my yard and a teeny tiny little piece fell into grass that was nearly 3 inches tall. A trick I used, same for whenever I break some glass and I'm trying to make sure I don't miss any pieces, is use a small flashlight at ground level to try and not only illuminate the area I'm searching but to hopefully catch a reflection of light off of the object. If I can find that, so can you!

Skip lighting is the fancy term for this. In addition to reflection you also get much longer shadows than with more overhead light. Carpet can be a challenge especially if it's irregular heights. Another tactic is pantyhose over the vacuum cleaner nozzle or a Dustbuster that you check the bag on when you hear that loud plastic on plastic click.

Cat Hatter
Oct 24, 2006

Hatters gonna hat.

Midjack posted:

Skip lighting is the fancy term for this. In addition to reflection you also get much longer shadows than with more overhead light. Carpet can be a challenge especially if it's irregular heights. Another tactic is pantyhose over the vacuum cleaner nozzle or a Dustbuster that you check the bag on when you hear that loud plastic on plastic click.

This is why some vacuum cleaners have headlights, despite what 90s observational comics would have you believe.

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Bimmi
Nov 8, 2009


someday
but not today
Has anybody received their delayed P-Bandai orders from April or any word about shipping for May orders?

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