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Over 200 quid worth of oils, waxes, and nails
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May 31, 2018 11:07
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Scaffolding present and correct
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Jun 1, 2018 11:20
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Jaded Burnout posted:Thank you. I did indeed watch this with my husband when we decided we were going to embark on a renovation. After we got through the movie, we also decided we were not going to try and live in the property during the renovations.
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Jun 1, 2018 13:35
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Leng posted:I did indeed watch this with my husband when we decided we were going to embark on a renovation. After we got through the movie, we also decided we were not going to try and live in the property during the renovations. You made the right call. For me it felt almost like a wash financially but I didn't really take into account the cost of not being able to cook your own food. And of course the stress of it is nowhere fun. I wouldn't do it again. Though being present every day really helped me keep on top of things which helps with the type of personality I have. Even then a lot of small details got missed.
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Jun 1, 2018 14:02
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Leng posted:I did indeed watch this with my husband when we decided we were going to embark on a renovation. After we got through the movie, we also decided we were not going to try and live in the property during the renovations. I've renovated my kitchen (removed a chimney, installed drywall & plaster patching on ceiling & walls, custom-built a base cabinet where the chimney was; new sink & countertop, painted everything), and (the only) bathroom (pulled plastic surround, re-framed, re-plumbed, rocked walls, & ceiling, ceramic tiled tub surround & floor; new sink, base & toilet, installed vent fan where there was none, wood-panelled walls, painted everything). Each job took six 16-hour days and I lived at home. Took months of planning, prepping, staging of supplies & equipment & each one still took that long. Living at home while doing any serious renovations is not a good idea. I was prepared to live like a caveman throughout (although during the bathroom job, I eventually showered at my next-door neighbors' house). I planned them this way around trips my wife took out of town, so she wouldn't be around & freak out on Day 3, when it invariably looks like a bomb went off.
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Jun 1, 2018 14:31
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PainterofCrap posted:I've renovated my kitchen (removed a chimney, installed drywall & plaster patching on ceiling & walls, custom-built a base cabinet where the chimney was; new sink & countertop, painted everything), and (the only) bathroom (pulled plastic surround, re-framed, re-plumbed, rocked walls, & ceiling, ceramic tiled tub surround & floor; new sink, base & toilet, installed vent fan where there was none, wood-panelled walls, painted everything).
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Jun 1, 2018 19:37
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I showered in the gym for months. I didn't do anything else in the gym, mind.
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Jun 1, 2018 19:44
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Jaded Burnout posted:I showered in the gym for months. I didn't do anything else in the gym, mind. Dang, that puts it into perspective. You were basically homeless with shelter, like you were living in your car or something. Not being able to cook or wash must have felt like squatting in your own home. Also lurker here chiming in to say how much I appreciate you documenting this process and sharing it with us!
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Jun 1, 2018 19:54
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Having no lights was also a thing for a long time, walking around with a lantern like some 21st century Dickens character. Given I also worked from home there were a few occasions when I couldn’t be in the house for safety reasons and had to work in my car in supermarket car parks.
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Jun 1, 2018 20:05
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The other hosed over client has gotten in touch as his situation with the builder has gone to total poo poo and he's lining up a law suit. He asked me for a very broad statement on the issues I've had with the builder. Leaned heavily on "we can't let this happen again" presumably to add pressure. My legal paranoia kicked in and I told him I'm not going to give a broad statement without a legal review and that's not something I want to pay for, and I don't want to get myself embroiled in a legal battle just as I'm getting my house in order. I wouldn't be a plaintiff in this suit so I wouldn't even see any cash from it. I've told him he can have his lawyer get in touch as and when they file, and we can see about answering a set of more well defined questions.
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Jun 3, 2018 10:51
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That's the last of the previous builder's stuff picked up, he wanted to chat about the project, I didn't. I've also reminded him via email that he's not welcome on my property, just in case. There's rendering going on right now which is good. Cladding arriving end of next week which is good. I'm short on money this month which is bad.
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Jun 8, 2018 14:13
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OK guys what should get done this weekend? Options are: 1. Buy some doors and see about fitting them (requires sharpening my plane) 2. Flip my front door around (requires a friend so I'll have to see if they're available) 3. More screwing down of creaky floor panels 4. Fill in various missing brick holes and a disused fireplace 5. Run the last of the speaker wire in the cinema room (requires cutting channels in the plaster and refilling) 6. Fit more network sockets 7. Replace the gas cylinder and arm rests in my office chair 8. Work on making a new home for my rats
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Jun 8, 2018 21:09
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Jaded Burnout posted:OK guys what should get done this weekend? Pick the one(s) that will be the most pleasurable or satisfying when you are done. You could use the emotional pick-me-up.
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Jun 8, 2018 21:13
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Doors then, I think. Lot's of learning and skill building required for that, but it would be nice to have some doors.
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Jun 8, 2018 21:43
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Also, do not underestimate the value in silent floors.
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Jun 8, 2018 22:38
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OK so before I called it for the night I had another look at the downstairs doorways. So a standard height door is 1981mm. The height from the bottom of the header of the door lining to the top of the finished floor for the bathroom threshold is 1955mm. Why? Because this dumb rear end in a top hat put in the door linings in before a bunch of thick flooring layers like tile and adhesive, and maybe even screed. So there's a 30mm difference between the finished floor height and the subfloor. rear end in a top hat. So now I need to figure out how to make up the difference. Some doors have up to 20mm you can trim off the bottom but I'd like to put in fire doors, which limits that to 5mm. So even if I trim the door down to 1976 I've still got to take at least 22mm off the door lining which is only 30mm thick in the first place. In situ, because there's no removing it now; it's fixed into the floor by all the adhesives and surrounding tile. And that's not even mentioning how shoddily they were fitted, so one of the legs is twisted AND bowed, and has been set in that position permanently. So, I guess my weekend is seeing if I can manage to fit ONE door.
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Jun 9, 2018 00:36
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 I'm channeling psychic energy for.a friend of a friend of a friend to refer a badass retired grandpa handyman to your rescue.
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Jun 9, 2018 00:48
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6'6" (1981 mm) seems a bit short for a door - I always thought the standard was 6'8" (but maybe the standard is different across the pond/in older houses?) And then if you have to trim them down more... please tell your very tall friends to watch their heads  (I know people who are 6'5"-6'7").I'm also looking at a lot of door work for my place, except my issue is finding/making a bunch of doors in various non-standard sizes. Also straightening frames, stripping paint, and repairing hardware. P.S. this is one of my favorite threads here - been following it for a long time.
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Jun 9, 2018 13:49
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Queen Victorian posted:6'6" (1981 mm) seems a bit short for a door - I always thought the standard was 6'8" (but maybe the standard is different across the pond/in older houses?) And then if you have to trim them down more... please tell your very tall friends to watch their heads I wasn't consciously aware of doorway heights until I tried to get a 7' square mattress through one, then the 6'6"ness of it became very apparent. I've done a bit of a google and it seems like the 6'6" style is UK specific, with a Euro style of 2040mm (6'8 1⁄4") starting to become more popular, particularly in Scotland (and mainland Europe, obvs). I wouldn't mind going a little larger in future as I'm 6'1" but had I even thought about it at the time it probably would've caused me trouble with a few of the remaining doorways, though I think only one doorway in the whole house is still where it started. Queen Victorian posted:P.S. this is one of my favorite threads here - been following it for a long time. Aw thanks. I just got back from the shops with a door, some door stops, and a plan on how to fit it that doesn't involve lopping a load off the door or planing anything for 6 hours. Nowhere had any handles in stock in a style I liked, though.
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Jun 9, 2018 14:44
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Had a go at resizing the doorway. Plan A failed. The glue on Plan B is drying right now, but I suspect I'm going to have to go with Plan C. Plan D is giving up and getting someone in. Trip report soon.
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Jun 10, 2018 14:28
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Another low-content tease I'm afraid, but stuff is getting done, will expound when possible.
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Jun 12, 2018 17:46
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OK I have my laptop back up to speed which means I have my photo library which means PHOTOS Battens for the cladding  The aforementioned £200+ of oils and nails for the cladding  New Bosch mitre saw and an extra blade.. for the cladding.  Scaffold going up. The renderer was worried about standing on the new lead above the bay windows.   Finished scaffold complete with my rush job roofing work.  Renderers get going. One bag per sqm, 25kg and £12 per bag. 
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Jun 12, 2018 22:03
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I posted some of this in this and other threads, but here's the saga of the doorway. There's this doorway into the downstairs bathroom. It seemed like a good candidate for a test run fitting a door, since there's good value there. I was wrong Doorway.  Door.  The issue is that the door lining was set on the unfinished floor level, and the finished floor is a good 30mm above that, meaning there's not enough head height to fit a normal 1981mm tall door in it without trimming an awful lot off which isn't allowed on the type of fire door I bought. I had a number of plans to try to deal with this. Plan A was cut out a notch in the head piece. First, level the door and raise it to its normal working height.  Ugh    More futzing  Then I realised that the floor was neither level nor flat, so I wound up with this  Eventually got it level and at the right height   Marked it up  Quick detour to set up the saw, so I could cut a piece of wood to the thickness of the door and use it as a marker       Marked up and laser checked   Brief detour to put my new £17 wood blade in my multitool. Oh what's that? This variant only supports quick fit blades? Well let's hope I can take it back opened.  Buzz chop   Nails, eh?  Plan A didn't work, the remaining wood was too weak from being cut, so I went on to Plan B, which I'd anticipated by buying some 6mm MDF when at the shops.  That didn't work out either, the MDF was too thin to provide good structure. So I've moved on to Plan C which is rip out the current lining, chop it off at the new floor height, and put a new one in after trimming the plaster and tile back. I'm also switching to a different brand of door which has more trim depth, and returning the other one at some point. New linings and doors are on order now.
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Jun 12, 2018 22:19
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Meanwhile, the lovely builder showed up to pick up the last of his stuff. He tried to be chummy, I was not having it.   I bought an old Stanley plane because I'll probably need it for the doors    And the render is going on in earnest     It will get a bit brighter as it dries. I did have to ask them to maybe spread out this 500kg stack of render please, what with it being in the middle of a 6m span of fibreglass roof.  Cladding arrives tomorrow at 7am, I've got to get that squared away so I can leave for work at 8, and I'm coming home early so I have the daylight to fit the corner pieces where they meet the wall as the renderer needs something to work up to on Thursday morning.
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Jun 12, 2018 22:24
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Why does the door need to be fire rated if the door frame and wall is not fire rated? Is that a building code thing?
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Jun 12, 2018 22:35
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Let's do a finance check in. Recent expenditures: Roofing materials & tools £231.95 Cladding £1,938.86 Cladding batten £110.59 Cladding nails and oils £230.48 Door fitting tools £54.31 SDS drill £39.99 Stanley plane £58.00 Mitre saw and blade £258.59 Render materials £1,167.00 Door handles & fittings x2 £22.90 Various saws & blades £41.72 Flat packers (300) £15.95 Door lining stops x10 £11.34 B&Q door, temp house numbers £90.37 Hinges & bolts £8.97 3x Deanta Eton FD30 w/ linings & strips £528.52 Amusingly it's only while writing this up that I realised I bought 3 doors when I meant to buy 2. Oh well, I'll make use of it, I need 10 eventually. Total spent so far, £150,853.48.
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Jun 12, 2018 22:40
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Sticky Date posted:Why does the door need to be fire rated if the door frame and wall is not fire rated? Is that a building code thing? The wall is fire rated due to the nature of the plasterboard used. There's no such thing as a "fire rated frame" at least around here, they become fire rated through the use of intumescent paints and strips which seal the gaps when heated. The frames themselves are presumably strong enough to resist for 30 minutes even when not fitting fire doors. Even if this weren't the case, I'm buying fire doors because they're heavier and more solid, meaning they feel better and reduce sound leak more.
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Jun 12, 2018 22:42
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Another person chiming in to say that this is my favourite thread in ages. Not least because I'm in the UK so understand brick etc. but also because I am dreaming of putting underfloor heating into my 100 year old bungalow (ha!). Sorry that it's stressed you out for our entertaintment.
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Jun 12, 2018 23:30
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Well heck I'm delighted to see your progress!
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Jun 12, 2018 23:42
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Forgive me if this isn't the thread to ask, but I'm redoing a room in my house and I have a question about materials to use for repairing plaster walls. The room was covered in cheap wood paneling. I quickly discovered that the previous owners had glued the paneling on, and the glue was a good centimeter thick in places. Real old, solid stuff. So scraping that off resulted in a lot of chipped paint, divots, and smallish holes. No cracks, no really massive holes, and the integrity of the walls seem perfectly fine. I've never worked with plaster walls before, only drywall, so I just want to make sure I'm using the correct materials. I'm using premixed spackling to fill in the damage. Can I use premixed joint compound to skim, same as I would with drywall? I'm not planning on skimming the whole room, just smoothing over and feathering the areas that need it. I've also been reading that I should use joint compound to fill in the larger holes because it's not as stiff as spackling and will be more tolerant of expansion/contraction. Is that all true?
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Jun 13, 2018 16:23
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You might want to ask in the Home Spergin' thread for general house talk/questions. This is the thread for Jaded Burnout's house project in particular.
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Jun 13, 2018 16:55
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Got it, sorry!
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Jun 13, 2018 17:09
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It is perhaps a confusing title that way, especially now we’re over 7 pages. Since you’re here, I can tell you what I’ve used, which is a brand called polyfilla who have a couple of variants I like. One is designed to fill up to 20mm, so I do a rough fill with that, and then finish with their fine stuff that’s only good for a couple of mm. Then sand. Anything deeper than that and I’m either doing an initial pass with expanding foam or I’m cutting it out and fitting new plasterboard.
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Jun 13, 2018 20:57
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The cladding arrived. This was fun to unload at 7am before work. Something I knew I needed to do once it was here was to edge the areas where the renderer had to render up to. I took a few hours off work so I could get home early which was a very good idea because it took 4 hours. 1 hour of staring at walls holding a few short template cuts for sizing, plus discussing and planning with the renderer. 3 hours to fit the wood. In the end I only needed to fit one piece of board, but the most complicated one because it had to form-fit a window.    I am not a good carpenter. I still need to fully seat those nails which I'll do when my nail sets arrive. In the meantime here's some things I learned from the process: - Having your cutting station even 10 seconds walk from where you're fitting the wood is a huge time sink with frequent walking back and forth. - Being lazy and cutting corners only costs more time in the long run; - I should've set up sawhorses outside - I should've moved my mitre saw when it became clear the boards were too long for the space - I should've worn my toolbelt so as to avoid annoyances from keeping things in pockets and constantly leaving my pencil and tapes at one or other location - I should've put more effort into clamping, guiding the work piece rather than freehanding it for "speed" - I should've used my grippy fixing spacers rather than my blank ones as it was a pain to get things held in place while hammering a nail - I should've used a nail set, I forgot that they existed entirely and I have some cross-hatch hammer dents in the wood to show for it - Masonry nails will NOT go into dense block - I shouldn't have bought such a long hammer, I'm sure it's great for leverage but it's awful for accuracy, also I've lost BOTH of my other claw hammers somewhere in the house - Turns out thin drill bits are easy to snap and not having spares really loving sucks when you're on a deadline - When predrilling I decided to go for an only slightly larger drill bit than the nail shaft and that was a mistake, it made hammering much harder than it needed to be, should've gone half a mm up - I cannot hammer well left handed - Having only one free cable reel loving sucks, most of mine are tied up powering different parts of the house - Still not buying an exhaust hose for my mitre saw makes a real mess, but this I knew already Here's the chaos of my work station when I was done  I'm remedying some of these things through some purchases. I may still not bother with the mitre saw hose because they've very expensive and it may not matter if I'm using it outside from now on. More cladding tools and fixings £35.63 2x 30m power extension reels £59.98 White and anthracite mastics £17.62 Total so far, £150,966.71 If the weather is nice this weekend I'll move onto the cladding proper. The doors and linings are arriving on Monday. More rendering got done 
Jaded Burnout fucked around with this message at 13:26 on Jun 14, 2018 |
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Jun 14, 2018 13:23
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Hate to be that guy, but you missed a spot above the doorway. great thread!
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Jun 15, 2018 07:30
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Is it staying that color? Looks pretty good as-is.
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Jun 15, 2018 07:39
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TheMightyHandful posted:Hate to be that guy, but you missed a spot above the doorway. That's the plaque stone that usually carries the name of the house. Take a look at earlier photos and you'll see it there. I need to tidy up the edges, strip the grey paint, and figure out what to put on it but it's otherwise staying. Liquid Communism posted:Is it staying that color? Looks pretty good as-is. Yes, K Rend (and the competitor from Weber) are monocoque renders, meaning the colour is embedded in the render itself and you don't paint it. It'll get a little whiter as it dries more but otherwise it's staying the same.
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Jun 15, 2018 08:17
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lol what kind of house names are in your neighborhood do people always try to be posh or is it mostly family names or do you get people taking the piss
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Jun 15, 2018 09:44
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peanut posted:lol what kind of house names are in your neighborhood do people always try to be posh or is it mostly family names or do you get people taking the piss They seem to be historical, usually [something] villas, which I take to mean "large-ish single-family detached home". I've not been able to find a record for the original name of the house and my last attempt to strip the paint off the stone failed, so I'll try again while the scaffold is up. Otherwise I might just put the house number up there, or make up a name.
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Jun 15, 2018 10:05
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House Number Townsburg Villas Missionarykilldozer Beering Friendshaus
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Jun 15, 2018 10:59
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