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Coydog posted:I have the 705 on my DR650 and like them a lot, though I have no word on longevity. Done a lot of rain riding and felt ok. You can really rail em in the mountains and never feel close to losing traction, and they do fine in the brief off road I've done. I've already decided to replace them with another 705 when they wear out, if that helps. You really should try knobbies + dirt. An aside: knobbies are awful in the rain. e: 1000th page, have some pictures of the tires you should buy.   
builds character fucked around with this message at 15:34 on Aug 1, 2017 |
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Aug 1, 2017 15:25
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Supradog posted:How us the k60 on the front for you? I get good grip and longevity it seems (9000km so far, got about 50% thread life left) but it's very noisy at higher speeds on sealed surfaces and pretty vibey at lower speeds. I have it on my transalp, 21 inch tire. The Heidenaus have been really fantastic. I do freeway/twisty mountain stuff/washboard with sand and imbedded rock every day. On the pavement they are super vibey, yes, especially over 70-80 mph. But they make up for that by being solid in the dirt and sand. I haven't done much mud with them, but they've gotten me over a few water crossings with slick clay underneath. The sand is really nice, especially since the front on my super tenere is only 19 inch.
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Aug 1, 2017 16:52
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builds character posted:You really should try knobbies + dirt. I want to, and will. A 606 on the rear, probably. The 705s are more dirt oriented than I've ever had, and something more streety fits my riding style better right now. You know how it is, you just get a bike, and all you want to do is run errands and ride all over on it. No need to wear down a set of knobbies. Really, the DR650 is turning into the perfect commuter/errand/chill ride bike. I love it.
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Aug 1, 2017 17:27
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Revvik posted:Don't change your oil, throw your bike on Craigslist to trade up every 3,000 miles.
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Aug 1, 2017 18:28
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builds character posted:You really should try knobbies + dirt. Actually knobbies are awesome in the rain, you can feel what they're doing and spin/not spin at will instead of just getting sudden uncontrollable spin like you do on a road tyre.
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Aug 1, 2017 20:32
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Mr. Wiggles posted:The Heidenaus have been really fantastic. I do freeway/twisty mountain stuff/washboard with sand and imbedded rock every day. On the pavement they are super vibey, yes, especially over 70-80 mph. But they make up for that by being solid in the dirt and sand. I haven't done much mud with them, but they've gotten me over a few water crossings with slick clay underneath. The sand is really nice, especially since the front on my super tenere is only 19 inch. Yup, totally agree, awesome tires. Also about the same kinda stuff I use my transalp for. Had k60 silica front and rear, and replaced the rear yesterday, as said got 9k km out of them. Trying the k60 scout on the rear now. Other than the vibe and noise on pavement they really are confidence inspiring on looser stuff. I've done some limited mud stuff and it was okayish, but a big bike will always be a pig in mud anyway. If I know it will be mud ruts I bring my nx250 instead, 150 lbs less weight to manhandle.
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Aug 1, 2017 22:15
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anyone have experience with aftermarket turn signals? i bought a ninja 250 last week and what i thought were turn signals are actually just reflectors. it doesn't have any front turn signals on it. so i need to... get some. (yes, i know i'm dumb)
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Aug 2, 2017 01:58
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Wait what. Is the wiring there? Do you just need to get your bulbs, or did you just order an empty shell? Can you even just buy empty shells? why? edit: I'm currently renovating the DR650 turn signal system, and installing 800lum amber rock lights for signals. 
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Aug 2, 2017 01:59
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no, like, the stalk with the housing and the bulb is gone. both sides. just the base plate with a hole where the stalk should be. the wiring is all there, there's just nothing to connect it to.
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Aug 2, 2017 02:01
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Any generic incandescent turn signals you get at Cycle Gear will do the job. Beware cheap LED modules -- they're often much dimmer than the stock incandescent units. Good LED units are fine but more expensive.
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Aug 2, 2017 03:37
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How are LED replacement headlight bulbs for vibration resistance? I have a 2011 VFR800X and apparently the headlights blow out all the time. I'm assuming it is from vibration in the front fairing, I noticed on the motorway that the windscreen was vibrating quite a bit. Also, can you really just slot them in place of a normal bulb? The actual light emitting bits of a LED bulb are mounted on flat circuit boards, how does this work with a reflector designed for the uniform light distribution of an incandescent bulb?
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Aug 2, 2017 05:24
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fine with vibration compared to any filament bulb. The increased light output usually more than makes up for the lowered reflector focus. The $70 kits are the same as the $30-50 kits for the most part, just stay away from the $20 ones. They are all from the same sources in China, the differences are in the quality control and the housing and heat sinks depending on the electronics in your bike you may get an error code since the LED wont draw as much power
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Aug 2, 2017 05:44
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ijzer posted:no, like, the stalk with the housing and the bulb is gone. both sides. just the base plate with a hole where the stalk should be. the wiring is all there, there's just nothing to connect it to. Please link me to the listing you bought from. Now I'm inredibly curious. Sagebrush is right, on all counts. Just grab some chinese reproductions on ebay for like 20 bux a pair, or less. Cycle gear has these same things for about the same price. https://www.cyclegear.com/search?_utf8=%E2%9C%93&query=turn+signal&commit=Search
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Aug 2, 2017 06:30
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was it like a racebike the guy gave up on converting after 20 minutes of work or something?
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Aug 2, 2017 06:35
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The only thing to watch for with the cheap Chinese led kits is that any metal on them will rust in the time between you taking them from their baggies and installing them on the bike.
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Aug 2, 2017 08:55
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I will take a moment to grind my standard led bulb axe here: Don't buy the bulbs with the little case fans on the back of them. There are newer generations of bulbs that use steel braided straps as heat sinks. They are much shorter overall since you can bend the straps in any direction, so they'll fit into way more light housings. Also there isn't a fan there as a point of failure. Axe-grinding over
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Aug 2, 2017 12:13
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Keket posted:The only thing to watch for with the cheap Chinese led kits is that any metal on them will rust in the time between you taking them from their baggies and installing them on the bike. but its all chinese cheap stuff, even the one from the US company you paid $70 for
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Aug 2, 2017 21:09
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There are some GE and Phillips bulbs out there that are legit but they're hundreds of dollars. If you're getting an H4 or similar bulb under $100 it's coming from China As mentioned, so do the $70 ones being resold by a US company, so just buy the $20 ones on Amazon.
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Aug 2, 2017 21:17
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There are better and worse ones, its up to you to figure out which. The price has no real bearing on quality. The common failure point is from overheating. Get one with enough cooling that will fit in your housing. I bought this one recently https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LCWET42/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 should arrive soon, ill let you know how it works this one also seems ok but I wasnt sure it would fit in my housing compared to the first one https://www.amazon.com/YITAMOTOR-Wh...BRB8YYRN006PZSZ The lumens ratings are pretty BS, expect somewhere around 2700 for all of them Fauxtool fucked around with this message at 00:47 on Aug 3, 2017 |
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Aug 3, 2017 00:35
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Sagebrush posted:Any generic incandescent turn signals you get at Cycle Gear will do the job. Beware cheap LED modules -- they're often much dimmer than the stock incandescent units. Good LED units are fine but more expensive.
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Aug 3, 2017 03:24
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:There are aftermarket ones out there pretty cheap that are designed to look and mount the same as the originals. It makes the install less of a hassle if you just want the poo poo to work. I think like Bikemaster and K&S make them. i couldn't find any for the ninja 250 and i wasn't sure that the ninja 500 ones available from bikemaster were the same so i just grabbed a pair of cheap incandescent ones that are dot approved and hopefully they'll fit. if not i guess i'll make a baseplate for them. i really hope it doesn't come to that. i've had this bike for almost a month and haven't been able to ride it yet.
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Aug 3, 2017 03:47
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Wheels came back today ready to put back on, same with the new axle. Front wheel went on easy enough expect for trying once to put it on backwards ha ha but everyone does that ha ha right guys ha. Rear wheel spacer is being a true bitch though in fitting between the rear caliper carrier and the wheel. Manual isn't helpful like, at all. Any tips?
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Aug 3, 2017 22:22
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Revvik posted:Wheels came back today ready to put back on, same with the new axle. Front wheel went on easy enough expect for trying once to put it on backwards ha ha but everyone does that ha ha right guys ha. Support the rear wheel with something instead of trying to fit it all together when you're holding it up. Work the axle through and then try to put the spacer in as you're wiggling the axle. Once it matches up, ta da!
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Aug 3, 2017 23:31
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I like to put a chunk of 2x4 under the tire and then gently kick it until it lines up correctly. It usually suddenly just pops right in when you get it in the right position.
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Aug 3, 2017 23:36
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use your foot, it's the perfect hydraulic lift unless you been skipping leg day
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Aug 3, 2017 23:41
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Tires are 50% at my local HD dealer. Think I should get some nice tires?
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Aug 3, 2017 23:53
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If your HD dealer is anything like mine, 50% off is still RRP + 10%
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Aug 4, 2017 01:11
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I took a nap, read everyone's advice, and it went together in less than five minutes. Thanks guys!
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Aug 4, 2017 01:18
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I crashed last summer (broke my hand and my bike) and will be getting back on a (friend's) bike next week. Does anybody have any specific advice about returning after a year? Obviously I will be taking it very slowly and carefully.
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Aug 4, 2017 16:47
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Ridgewell posted:I crashed last summer (broke my hand and my bike) and will be getting back on a (friend's) bike next week. Does anybody have any specific advice about returning after a year? Obviously I will be taking it very slowly and carefully.
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Aug 4, 2017 16:57
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Ridgewell posted:I crashed last summer (broke my hand and my bike) and will be getting back on a (friend's) bike next week. Does anybody have any specific advice about returning after a year? Obviously I will be taking it very slowly and carefully. The fact that you're thinking about it at all means you'll be fine. Just don't overdo it and maybe don't jump on something really big and heavy straight away; your judgement will still be the same but your muscle memory for not falling over might be a little rusty.
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Aug 4, 2017 20:11
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Within the past few days I've noticed when pulling in the clutch and decelerating the rpm will drop below idle and bounce back up. It stalled me once when it first happened but you can definitely feel it when coming to a stop. Faster stop is more obvious. I'm not crazy and this isn't normal right? Last Sunday I had the air box and throttle bodies off to fix a coolant leak so I'm thinking if anything it has to do with all that being hosed with. I made sure everything was sealed and tightened though.
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Aug 4, 2017 20:26
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What bike? And no that's not normal
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Aug 4, 2017 20:28
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Schroeder91 posted:Within the past few days I've noticed when pulling in the clutch and decelerating the rpm will drop below idle and bounce back up. It stalled me once when it first happened but you can definitely feel it when coming to a stop. Faster stop is more obvious. I'm not crazy and this isn't normal right? Too low idle or vacuum leak will do that. Negative clutch drag overcomes idle power. Could be something else of course, but perhaps take another look at the boots. Computer controlled fueling will mask a vacuum leak.
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Aug 4, 2017 20:36
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2006 Vstrom Dl1000. I had actually turned up the idle to around 1300-1400 because sometimes it wanted to idle at 1k instead of 1100 like I had it set to. The tube from the vacuum chamber to the...IAP I think it was labeled? Is definitely old and cracked and I'm getting a new one. Possibly the issue here? I'll check the boots again to be sure Schroeder91 fucked around with this message at 21:03 on Aug 4, 2017 |
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Aug 4, 2017 21:01
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Schroeder91 you are going to have a completely new strom by the time you are done replacing all the failing bits.
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Aug 5, 2017 00:40
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Fifty Three posted:You can probably find (bad) advice about getting back on a bike for the first time in a year on like, a Sturgis forum or something poo poo, man. I'm right here.
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Aug 5, 2017 02:46
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Coydog posted:Schroeder91 you are going to have a completely new strom by the time you are done replacing all the failing bits. It's true
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Aug 5, 2017 03:52
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So I've been trying to google it, but haven't found any useful info. I figure I should learn to do basic maintenance on my bike. What needs to be done regularly and can be done by someone with no real experience working on a vehicle? I know about keeping the gear chain lubed, but what else is a must to do? If it helps, I have a 2016 ninja 300.
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Aug 5, 2017 18:06
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Has anyone here had a bigger lemon than that strom? (excluding KTM's)
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Aug 5, 2017 18:27
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