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Be careful going with graphite in an ignition cylinder. Remember it's conductive.
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Oct 7, 2017 14:13
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Be careful going with graphite in an ignition cylinder. Remember it's conductive. Spray the cylinder out with WD 40, then put the graphite on the key, put the key in and turn it a few times. Repeat five or six times. That way your lock isn’t full of graphite. Not that I’ve ever had an issue with that, but still. Best to be safe.
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Oct 7, 2017 14:16
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Slide Hammer posted:Spray some kind of lubricant. Silicone spray, white lithium grease, PTFE dry spray... WD-40 isn't a lubricant, but it might dissolve any kind of build-up that is forming in there... chase it with a lubricant. From what I understand you never want to use a wet lubricant like lithium etc on keyholes because they are attractant and will draw in all the dust & grime, much like my milkshake does re: the boys.
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Oct 7, 2017 15:27
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epsilon posted:EDIT: Ended up going with this: http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1425217 will report back So I used the key to hold the slot open, put two drops of this in, pushed the key in and out and wiped the excess from the key. It's smooth now.
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Oct 7, 2017 21:14
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How do I wire this up? I have some Acerbis vision handguards with leds.  Currently I run them directly from my battery to a separate switch. This gives me the opportunity to have lights on with the bike ignition off. + I have lights when I get to the cabin after dark so I can actually see the door + keyhole. + I can roll it into the dark backyard at the evening without annoying the neighbors + lock it up. - Separate switch that needs to be turned off not to blind oncoming cars. What I want to keep the ignition off light posibility + have it wired to the normal high beam switch to be able to dim them while riding from the "normal" button. I would think a normal 4 or 5 point relay should work for this?
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Oct 11, 2017 14:22
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First of all, could you post beamshots and feedback on how bright they are and how useful the beam is? I've always been curious about those (because I love light), but figured they were gonna be pretty weak. For high beam triggering, do what I always do and splice into the high beam bulb wire. For the manual action switch, wire that into a spare switched power wire, rather than directly to the battery. That way you won't run the battery down if you forget. You can have the bike switched on without running, so it would solve your other needs. I've only worked with relays that have one trigger wire, so I'm curious about other relay boxes.
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Oct 11, 2017 18:11
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They are more for edge/ditch/near fillout than long range. They supplement the 7k lumen cyclops main beam pretty good, as that has all the long range I need. They are mounted to the handlebars so they follow your turning better. I'd say they are pretty good for edge/near lighting purpose. They also help grabbing the attention of cars when you filter, without being a dick running high beams. I'll grab some images tomorrow, it's pissing down outside now. Hm, I think I can do it with a 5 pole Changeover relay + the existing extra switch.  +12v to leds connected at 30. High beam bulb wire splice into 87a (so when high beam is on, extra leds is on) Wire from Battery into 85. Wire from 86 to 87. Extra switch on wire from battery. Triggering the extra switch powers leds directly from battery. Can you run power that way though? through the 86-85 switch? I'll have to look it up. it's only 2x4w power draw Only thing is that you will always have the extra lights when you run high beams, but I don't think that will be a problem Supradog fucked around with this message at 19:37 on Oct 11, 2017 |
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Oct 11, 2017 19:34
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Supradog posted:They are more for edge/ditch/near fillout than long range. They supplement the 7k lumen cyclops main beam pretty good, as that has all the long range I need. They are mounted to the handlebars so they follow your turning better. I'd say they are pretty good for edge/near lighting purpose. They also help grabbing the attention of cars when you filter, without being a dick running high beams. 85/86 is the coil. Wire it up like this: Battery+ with fuse goes to 87 and 86, that's the relay Normally Open and coil +. Switch to ground goes to 85, coil -. Hi beam wire goes into 87a, relay Normally Closed. LED power goes to 30. When you flip the switch, fused power from the battery powers the coil, operating the relay. The same fused power goes through the relay contacts to the LEDs. When the switch isn't on, the high-beam power travels through the normally closed contacts and operates the LEDs when the high beam is on. You could also have the switch on the high side of the relay. Battery + goes to fuse then 87 and the switch. Other side of the switch goes to 85. 86 to ground. Same operation.
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Oct 12, 2017 02:27
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Due to a series of unfortunate events, my new bike will be spending the winter in a lovely old shed instead of a climate-controlled basement. Aside from the security issues, I'm a little worried about mice eating cabling/seat foam/etc. Any advice?
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Oct 16, 2017 16:20
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robotsinmyhead posted:Due to a series of unfortunate events, my new bike will be spending the winter in a lovely old shed instead of a climate-controlled basement. Aside from the security issues, I'm a little worried about mice eating cabling/seat foam/etc. Any advice? Park next to a Yamaha Thundercat.
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Oct 16, 2017 16:33
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If you are worried about mice getting in make sure they don't have access to your exhaust. It wasn't attached to my bike but I left a stock exhaust in my shed over the winter and the little jerks completely packed it with nuts.
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Oct 16, 2017 16:49
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Ola posted:Park next to a Yamaha Thundercat. It's got some company - a stripped Honda Elite moped, a 78 Goldwing "chopper" with clip-ons, and an old Italvelo moped. I guess I should check those for mouse damage before I freak out about this.
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Oct 16, 2017 17:00
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I left a roll of paper towels next to my bike in the shed and the mice packed the air intake with shreds of paper towel.
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Oct 16, 2017 17:04
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robotsinmyhead posted:Due to a series of unfortunate events, my new bike will be spending the winter in a lovely old shed instead of a climate-controlled basement. Aside from the security issues, I'm a little worried about mice eating cabling/seat foam/etc. Any advice? Seal the exhaust and intake. Remove the seat entirely. If the shed is powered, or if there's an outlet close enough, get a cheap nightlight and leave it on, sitting on or near the bike. It won't necessarily keep all the mice away, but it'll keep them from nesting.
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Oct 16, 2017 17:49
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Painters tape at least over the exhaust and intake snorkel
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Oct 16, 2017 18:00
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Is this what they mean when they talk about mouse trapping on a motorcyle?
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Oct 16, 2017 20:01
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I'd put out some poison bait around the shed too, it's the only thing that keeps mice from nesting under the engine shroud on my damned lawnmower that lives in a shed year round. Bucket trap might be a good alternative if you don't want to use poison. Different topic: Coydog, when you wrapped the front fender on the SMC did you do one piece of vinyl for the whole front? I want to wrap the center tank panel and the front fender on the GS, but the angles on the front of the fender make me think it would be a bitch to get the vinyl to stay in place and not peel up. Jazzzzz fucked around with this message at 20:22 on Oct 16, 2017 |
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Oct 16, 2017 20:19
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robotsinmyhead posted:Due to a series of unfortunate events, my new bike will be spending the winter in a lovely old shed instead of a climate-controlled basement. Aside from the security issues, I'm a little worried about mice eating cabling/seat foam/etc. Any advice? On top of the anti-rodent advice, if you can at all, get the tyres up off the ground, and if the shed is likely to see temperatures below freezing (or sustained near it) fill the tank up on the side stand then brim it while upright with isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol/surgical spirit) and stir it thoroughly with a stick (or something non-metallic). Give it another stir 10 minutes before you start it. This should stop the water cold-distilling out and sitting around your intake, and brimming the tank stops it from rusting which it can do surprisingly quickly.
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Oct 16, 2017 23:00
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I've heard if you stuff dryer sheets in strategic places in a bike, the smell deters rodents. Can't confirm.
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Oct 17, 2017 13:19
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Sounds like an easy way to end a GROM rider's vile obsession
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Oct 17, 2017 15:38
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I have a circuit question and a diode choice question I'm hoping someone more knowledgable than I could help with. The grom has a three wire turn signal set up stock. One wire goes to negative/ground(?), one to a DRL filament in the bulb, and one to the turn signal filament in the bulb. When you turn on the signals, it cuts power to the DRL before activating the signals. Works great because both filaments are on different circuits in the bulb. I have a two wire signal/light I really want to use for this application. It's an LED unit, so I just have a positive and negative wire. In use, it works great, with the DRL turning off and the signal turning on. My PROBLEM is that with the DRL and Signal wires in contact, the indicator on the gauges never turns off, because it's getting power to ground by being in contact with the DRL wire. I was thinking that I could put a diode on the signal wire, so that power can only flow one way, like this, and so the indicator wouldn't get power from the DRL:  But the more I think about it, the more dumb this seems, because it's not power flowing back on the signal circuit, right?
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Oct 17, 2017 18:36
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If the circuit works like you think it works then you need two diodes, one for the DRL wire and one for the other power wire. Google up a wiring diagram first to confirm. Are you 100% certain that earth wire is just an earth? Sometimes they have one power supply and the flasher unit just switches from one earth to another to control which filament lights up. As to the larger philosophical question of why the gently caress you would ever bother doing this stuff with a grom, I'm afraid nobody on this forum is qualified enough to help. Clearly something somewhere went wrong in your life and the road to recovery will be long and painful, but with professional psychiatric help I'm sure you'll get there eventually!
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Oct 17, 2017 20:05
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You should know by now that I do this stuff to all of my bikes. I don't really understand why the bike in question should matter. I'm possitive that the other wire (black in the image) is the negative, because I've already hooked it up to test. So I need a diode on both wires, because when the one wire is powered, power is flowing back into the other, powering the gauge indication circuit? It seems like current would only want to flow "out" of the positive wire towards the negative, but visualizing this is really breaking my brain.
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Oct 17, 2017 20:30
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Having thought about it some more, I can't see how that would even work on the factory bike. If there's only one earth wire, and it's a two filament bulb, the bike would have to already have diodes to prevent the DRL power lighting up the indicator. I suspect only one of those wires is a power wire and the other two are earths. But maybe not? Find a wiring diagram, post it here because I can't be hosed looking for you. Also seek help.
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Oct 17, 2017 20:39
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Why do you hate everything I enjoy, slavvy?  Here is a link to the wiring diagram for the grom. https://imgur.com/a/HAZ0N
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Oct 17, 2017 20:54
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Fuckdammit Honda what kind of monster makes VCC black and ground green? Aaaaaaaaa 
Renaissance Robot fucked around with this message at 21:10 on Oct 17, 2017 |
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Oct 17, 2017 21:05
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If no one has addressed this by 5pm PST I will explain how to do it bc I did a very similar thing to my bike with the turn signals but I have to go and teach a class right now. Can you explain a little more clearly what is going on exactly? You have a single unit that has both DRL and lamp functions, but it only has two wires going into it? e: oh, no, I see -- you want to have the lamps on normally, then switch off when the turn signal is activated, and blink using the input from the blinker unit, but also that is messing up your dash indicator. Yeah, very very similar thing to what I did. The diodes need to go up in the dash, not down on the turn signal. I'll look into it more later tonight. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 21:20 on Oct 17, 2017 |
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Oct 17, 2017 21:16
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Coydog posted:I have a circuit question and a diode choice question I'm hoping someone more knowledgable than I could help with. The grom has a three wire turn signal set up stock. One wire goes to negative/ground(?), one to a DRL filament in the bulb, and one to the turn signal filament in the bulb. When you turn on the signals, it cuts power to the DRL before activating the signals. Works great because both filaments are on different circuits in the bulb. Okay so you're correct that you've got two live wires and operating the turn signal switch cuts power from the steady on wire (orange/white) and shifts it to the blinker wire (orange). Are you saying the dashboard light is on constantly? Like not blinking, solid on always? Because yeah two diodes on each live wire pointing towards the bulb will fix that. e/ Sagebrush, for obvious reasons I don't want to second guess you about electronics stuff, but did you check out the wiring diagram? The dashboard lights run off the same wire as drives the actual indicators, I can't see how a diode up there would do anything. Renaissance Robot fucked around with this message at 21:39 on Oct 17, 2017 |
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Oct 17, 2017 21:23
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Renaissance Robot posted:Fuckdammit Honda what kind of monster makes VCC black and ground green? Aaaaaaaaa every japanese bike made before 1983?
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Oct 17, 2017 23:04
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Coydog posted:Why do you hate everything I enjoy, slavvy? Categorically untrue, I really like your DR. Diodes will fix your problem. Well, maybe not your problem but they'll get your indicator situation resolved anyway. GnarlyCharlie4u posted:every japanese bike made before 1983? Yeah but the rest of them smartened the gently caress up.
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Oct 17, 2017 23:18
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Renaissance Robot posted:Fuckdammit Honda what kind of monster makes VCC black and ground green? Aaaaaaaaa Last weekend, my stepdad blew his classic F150's battery because some fuckmuppet made the positive wires black and the negative wires red. I had front side seats and I thought it was hilarious. Not so much for his wallet though.
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Oct 17, 2017 23:37
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goddamnedtwisto posted:On top of the anti-rodent advice, if you can at all, get the tyres up off the ground, and if the shed is likely to see temperatures below freezing (or sustained near it) fill the tank up on the side stand then brim it while upright with isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol/surgical spirit) and stir it thoroughly with a stick (or something non-metallic). Give it another stir 10 minutes before you start it. This should stop the water cold-distilling out and sitting around your intake, and brimming the tank stops it from rusting which it can do surprisingly quickly. Yeah definitely don’t do this. Just fill it with gas to the brim. Rubbing alcohol is mostly water. Best case scenario your bike will run like crap until the alcohol/water gets out of there
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Oct 18, 2017 00:07
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Sagebrush posted:If no one has addressed this by 5pm PST I will explain how to do it bc I did a very similar thing to my bike with the turn signals but I have to go and teach a class right now. Yay, Professor Sagebrush! Renaissance Robot posted:Okay so you're correct that you've got two live wires and operating the turn signal switch cuts power from the steady on wire (orange/white) and shifts it to the blinker wire (orange). What's happening is this: Black wire to common Red wire to both DRL and Signal wires When DRL-> Dash indicator stays on solid When Signal-> Dash indicator flashes like normal. The bike's circuitry takes care of turning off power to one wire when when the other needs to be active, and vice versa. Power is still flowing to the dash indicator, presumably through the turn signal wire. Slavvy posted:Categorically untrue, I really like your DR. Diodes will fix your problem. You've come a long way from riding dirtbikes over foot bridges, my friend. Keep this up and they might even let you out of the country.So two diodes, one on each wire ( but not common)? So when power is flowing to one, it can't flow into the other, and vice versa? Which diode should I use? One is recommended for car applications, but is for 50v? Since the bike is 12v, should I pick that one, even though my signals/DRL will be more than 5W? https://www.ebay.com/itm/1N4001-Dio...ewAAOSwHgVW60Rc https://www.ebay.com/itm/5PCS-1N5349B-DIODE-ZENER-12V-5W-AXIAL-DO-15-USA-SELLER-/272401580132?hash=item3f6c664064:g:X7AAAOSwGotWjv1C
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Oct 18, 2017 00:42
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Coydog posted:Yay, Professor Sagebrush! So one diode per turn signal. It will go on the solid-color wire (Orange or Light Blue) with the band pointing towards the flashy bit.. This will block the DRL signal from getting to the indicator on the "combination meter," but will allow the flasher signal to reach the unit. Get a diode with a power rating at least 2x the wattage of your LED assembly, as all the power for the flasher is going through this diode first. Here's a 3A diode; that would be OK up to 20W or so.
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Oct 18, 2017 01:42
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Since the image didn't attach for some reason... It's nice to know that Honda hasn't changed their wire colors any. My '76 GoldWing uses exactly the same colors for everything.
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Oct 18, 2017 01:47
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:So one diode per turn signal. It will go on the solid-color wire (Orange or Light Blue) with the band pointing towards the flashy bit.. This will block the DRL signal from getting to the indicator on the "combination meter," but will allow the flasher signal to reach the unit. Get a diode with a power rating at least 2x the wattage of your LED assembly, as all the power for the flasher is going through this diode first. babyeatingpsychopath posted:Since the image didn't attach for some reason... Thank you for detailing this! This is becoming much clearer to me now with everyone's help. . Shipping from mouser is pretty pricy, but this one looks similar: https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-PACK-Diode-Rectifier-3-0-AMP-100V-FREE-SAME-DAY-SHIPPING-/261987736781?hash=item3cffaf9ccd:g:weIAAOSwqfNXn69f Of course, they don't say the forward voltage or current. I was talking about each side, but I see how others could be confused and suggest two diodes, one for each side.
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Oct 18, 2017 02:12
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Coydog posted:Thank you for detailing this! This is becoming much clearer to me now with everyone's help. . Shipping from mouser is pretty pricy, but this one looks similar: If you look closely at their picture, the diodes say "1n5401" on them. That's the same diode. Go for it.
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Oct 18, 2017 02:19
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Okay, well, lots of people beat me to it but yeah, it's as simple as you had laid out. My Hawk's original dash had a funny situation going on where the dashboard turn signal indicator was grounded (when flashing) through the opposite-side signal lamp so it was a little more complicated. I made you this full-color diagram though so you can be absolutely sure of where the diode goes!  If you want to be totally sure that your diode is fine, use a multimeter to measure the current through the lamp assembly when the DRL is on and multiply that by 12 to get an approximation of how many watts it needs to handle. Forward voltage doesn't really matter as long as it's less than a volt. babyeatingpsychopath posted:
Yep, they're the same on my '71 CL350 as well. e: I like to think of the diode symbol as having an arrow and a wall. The arrow points in the direction current can flow. If current comes into the diode and hits the wall first, it's blocked. The white line on the diode corresponds to the wall in the symbol. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 02:53 on Oct 18, 2017 |
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Oct 18, 2017 02:41
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:every japanese bike made before 1983?
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Oct 18, 2017 02:50
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Is this real and I missed something? I've worked on a lot of all four Japanese brands from the 70s and my memory is that Yamaha is black ground and Suzuki is black/white and Kawasaki is black/yellow and they've all been using those colors Nixon was president. It's possible that I might only be recalling 70's and 80's Hondas.
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Oct 18, 2017 15:25
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