|
Dagen H posted:Down one tooth on the front sprocket means one link shorter on the chain, right? Is it that simple? No, you don't need to change the chain, any change in length is taken up by the chain adjusters.
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2018 19:38
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 5, 2024 11:31 |
|
|
Nope, it may or may not. Try https://www.gearingcommander.com/
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2018 19:38
|
|
|
As soon as I get the rear wheel back on, I'll install a stock-length chain and go from there. Thanks, gents. E: Wow, what an idiot. I wanted to go UP a tooth in front for lower cruising RPMs. Need to order another sprocket. Dagen H fucked around with this message at 22:18 on Dec 18, 2018 |
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2018 20:37
|
|
|
It's easy to confuse them, since you get the same gearing effect by doing the opposite things to the front sprocket and rear sprocket. Make gearing taller (more spacing in between gears; better top speed, lower revs, more usable lower gears): Front sprocket: Increase size Rear sprocket: Decrease size Make gearing shorter (better acceleration/torque, worse top speed): Front: Decrease size Rear: Increase size
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2018 05:12
|
|
|
Dagen H posted:As soon as I get the rear wheel back on, I'll install a stock-length chain and go from there. Thanks, gents. Congratulations on your new wheelie machine.
|
|
#
?
Dec 22, 2018 03:08
|
|
|
GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Congratulations on your new wheelie machine. Sorry, got a +1 on there now.
|
|
#
?
Dec 22, 2018 04:23
|
|
|
Please explain to me the various effects and consequences of adjusting trail with wheel size (e.g., converting to 17" supermoto setup from 19/21). I basically understand that 1.) decreasing the diameter of the front wheel from 21" to 17" (without regard to tire section) will decrease both rake and trail, 2.) decreasing rear wheel diameter will increase both rake and trail to a lesser degree, and 3.) raising/lowering front/rear suspension also causes the same changes, to yet again a different degree. I also understand that decreasing trail translates to much quicker steering. Is trail measurement an across the board indicator of turn-in speed for two-wheeled vehicles, or does the trail measurement need to be considered in the context of rake angle? I watched a video where I saw 92 mm of trail given as a pretty extreme measurement suited for pro racers but also saw the guy from Procycle give 60-75 mm as the trail for a DR650 with supermoto wheels. I've also seen the shopping cart wheel analogy and get that as well.
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2018 22:34
|
|
|
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2018 04:20
|
|
|
Quote appears to be broken on the app now so I can't quote you but: Bike handling is super complicated and is a dozen different things all interacting, people struggle because they want a simpler explanation that neatly maps a bigger/smaller number onto a proportionate handling change but it just doesn't work that way and can't be simplified further. My advice to you: If you're sticking motard wheels on a DS, just do it and it'll be fine. Agonizing over numbers is a waste of time, if it rides stable then it's stable enough. In all likelihood you'll find with smaller wheels and road tyres, the rear will sit too low and you'll need to bring up the preload. If you just want general understanding: rake is what helps determine how eager/fast the bike is to turn in to a given arc, trail is how hard the bike fights to stay upright. The trail is what you're pushing against when you countersteer. Best way to learn this stuff is to first get a hold of a bike you're very familiar with and confident on, then try making one drastic change at a time and see what effect it has on the bike. My bandit has a shorter fork than factory, a longer shock and a resulting super steep rake and short trail (like 82mm). I agonized for weeks over these measurements until I actually took the bike for a ride and it's rock solid up to 200km/h at least.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2018 05:18
|
|
|
gently caress it double post cause I can't edit: It's possible to have a bike work a steep rake and not a lot of trail, or vice versa and those bites tend to be pretty informative For example, 90's gixxer 1100's handle like a truck, everyone knows this, it's because Suzuki locked themselves into the pinnacle of 80's frame design right before everyone's lightbulb wrt weight distribution switched on. Tl;dr the bikes have way too much weight rearward. So how do you make them handle? Drop the forks drastically, jack the rear of drastically. The geometry gets much steeper, but the bike handles ok because of the extra weight on the front - so far so good. Keep in mind a bigger contact patch gives it more trail and somewhat compensates for the steeper forks. Problem is, all that front weight bias and super steep forks make an already hefty bike a real workout to turn in. Second problem: all of this works great when you're turning and braking, but when you're on the gas and the bike gets taller and the wheelbase gets shorter and the front wheel unloads you suddenly have an extremely unstable machine. Which is why every modified old gixxer has a bigass, super stiff steering damper.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2018 05:30
|
|
|
I've been riding my Honda Rebel 300 for a few months now and I'm getting the itch for something quicker. I'm a cheap rear end and I found a 80s Suzuki GS1100 on Craigslist. Is this a bad idea or really bad idea for a new rider?
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2018 05:51
|
|
|
BrownieVK posted:I've been riding my Honda Rebel 300 for a few months now and I'm getting the itch for something quicker. Nope! Now is the worst possible time to upgrade to something else. You have gotten past the initial set of nerves that make you scared to twist the throttle fully, so you feel like you've outgrown the bike. You absolutely have not, and in fact your newfound confidence -- which outstrips your actual skills -- makes this the most dangerous period for any new rider. You are nowhere near the limits of what your bike can do. Find some twisty roads and push harder in the corners; that'll get your adrenaline going. Stick with the 300 for a a year and then come back to the question.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2018 06:05
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:Nope! Now is the worst possible time to upgrade to something else. You have gotten past the initial set of nerves that make you scared to twist the throttle fully, so you feel like you've outgrown the bike. You absolutely have not, and in fact your newfound confidence -- which outstrips your actual skills -- makes this the most dangerous period for any new rider. You are nowhere near the limits of what your bike can do. Find some twisty roads and push harder in the corners; that'll get your adrenaline going. Thanks for this honest response. I never thought of it this way, you are 100% on the nose about the throttle at least on straights and light to light but I still have work to do on curves. I think part of that itch is the car guy side too where I need something new or a new part to install if that makes any sense.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2018 13:51
|
|
|
BrownieVK posted:I think part of that itch is the car guy side too where I need something new or a new part to install if that makes any sense. Nothing wrong with that! There should be plenty of farkles available for the rebel if you go looking.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2018 14:29
|
|
|
OK so I think my Sportster battery is on the way out, and I'm trying to find replacements online, only because I'm an idiot I don't really know what I'm doing. The Part No. on the battery is 65958-04A, only every time I try and find one (in the UK) they're all like £100+ or not available any more. What's the best/cheapest alternative?
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2018 15:12
|
|
|
Cheap and Harley don't go together so feel free to forget that idea! I mean, you can get a cheap battery with the right dimensions but it'll get worn out fast. As for best my contender would be Yuasa ytx14LBS. There are alternative yuasa part numbers that have the same size box but not Harley specific terminals, they are slightly cheaper but much more painful to fit, have a look on the yuasa website to see everything that bolts into your bike.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2018 19:31
|
|
|
If voltage across a battery is 12.6 with the key off and drops to 0.5 with key on, is it a flat battery or bad ground? No headlight or dummy lamps with ignition on, main fuse is at 6V with ignition off. It’s usually on a tender but I forget sometimes and it’s cold af in my garage.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2018 04:17
|
|
|
DRZ400 with a stock carb, airbox, and exhaust. The last few times I rode, I noticed I had a high idle (like I had the choke knob out one click) every time I stopped. If I let the clutch out to put a load on the engine, it would go back to a normal RPM. If I revved it at that point, it would stick high. This tells me something is causing it to go lean, but I can't find it. I checked the boot between the carb and the engine for air leaks, confirmed that it's not just the throttle cable sticking, and checked around for anything else obviously loose. I was going to take the choke assembly out, but got the knob off, lost the detent ball, and realized I didn't have a socket that would fit. Any other things I can check without taking the carb apart? It's also been a little colder on these rides (low 60s), but I've been in colder temps without any issues previous years.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2018 05:36
|
|
|
Henry it sounds like your battery is hosed, but 6v at the main fuse points to loose battery terminals, crap earth or main relay shenanigans. Have you tried jump starting it? Deeters what's your air filter situation? Sometimes filter foam clogs the air bleeds on the front of the carb, it sounds like you've got a partly clogged pilot circuit. Have you got a CV or a flat slide? If the former, you might have acceleration pump problems. Either way, taking the carb out and apart on a drz is easy mode, just do it. I'd also make triple sure it isn't just the throttle hanging, make sure you've got slack all the way through the steering arc, you could also try deliberately introducing a lot of cable slack and see if it still does it. If none of the above do anything, check valve clearances.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2018 18:53
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:Cheap and Harley don't go together so feel free to forget that idea! I mean, you can get a cheap battery with the right dimensions but it'll get worn out fast. The Motobatt batteries have two sets of terminals (and are in imperial rather than metric) so should be able to fit into a Harley pretty easily. Having said that my Shiver ate one of them in two winters, so I'm sticking to Yuasa from now on.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2018 18:59
|
|
|
Deeters, that sounds exactly like my KLR when the vacuum actuated petcock diaphragm leaked fuel.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2018 19:00
|
|
|
Speaking of which, I’m feeling a pretty distinct surge/lug at 4500-4900 rpm on my KLR. When cruising at highway speeds it feels like it’s just about to run out of gas, but only for half a second, every five seconds. I can throttle past it, and it accelerates like usual, but constant level throttle at 65-70 mph is a stuttery feeling. I pulled the carb and cleaned it, didn’t notice any issues. Pulled the petcock and checked the diaphragm, looks clean but there is a little moisture on the inside of the vacuum line so I’ll look to replace the diaphragm asap. What really concerns me is I disconnected the vac line, plugged it, and still feel like the engine was jittery around 4500. Valves were done 10,000 miles ago, I’m really hoping to get another 2000 out of it before I need to do them again, but if they’re causing this I’ll see about getting it done sooner. Praying the new petcock diaphragm and/or another thorough carb clean solves it. Anything I’m missing?
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2018 19:08
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:Deeters what's your air filter situation? Sometimes filter foam clogs the air bleeds on the front of the carb, it sounds like you've got a partly clogged pilot circuit. Have you got a CV or a flat slide? If the former, you might have acceleration pump problems. Either way, taking the carb out and apart on a drz is easy mode, just do it. CV carb, so you mean the latter for accelerator pump, right? Pulling the carb still sucks when you have to do it outside, so I'm trying to to avoid it. I was turning the throttle at the carb to eliminate the cable hanging up. Also gonna recheck all the vacuum lines to the petcock since I know of plenty that have failed.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2018 19:29
|
|
|
BrownieVK posted:I've been riding my Honda Rebel 300 for a few months now and I'm getting the itch for something quicker. I'm a cheap rear end and I found a 80s Suzuki GS1100 on Craigslist. Is this a bad idea or really bad idea for a new rider? BrownieVK posted:Thanks for this honest response. I never thought of it this way, you are 100% on the nose about the throttle at least on straights and light to light but I still have work to do on curves. I think part of that itch is the car guy side too where I need something new or a new part to install if that makes any sense. Go buy a small dirt bike. Otherwise, go work on curves. Get a GoPro or similar and try to make all your turns perfect. Deeters posted:CV carb, so you mean the latter for accelerator pump, right? Pulling the carb still sucks when you have to do it outside, so I'm trying to to avoid it. I was turning the throttle at the carb to eliminate the cable hanging up. Vaccuum leak and then air filter seem like the easiest things to check for to me. Everything else is going to involve pulling the carb, I’d think. RadioPassive posted:Speaking of which, I’m feeling a pretty distinct surge/lug at 4500-4900 rpm on my KLR. When cruising at highway speeds it feels like it’s just about to run out of gas, but only for half a second, every five seconds. I can throttle past it, and it accelerates like usual, but constant level throttle at 65-70 mph is a stuttery feeling. How would this be valves if it’s just st s specific rpm? I feel like I’m missing something here.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2018 20:08
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:Henry it sounds like your battery is hosed, but 6v at the main fuse points to loose battery terminals, crap earth or main relay shenanigans. Have you tried jump starting it? Cleaned up battery terminals and main ground from the harness to the engine. Battery charged all night. I get 12.7-13.0 across the main fuse terminals, key on and off. Same across starter relay terminals with key off, and 0.0 with key on. Consistently 0.0 across ignition fuse terminals. There’s a generically named relay assembly that I think is a main relay, but I don’t know how to properly check continuity. It’s got 9 terminals, two banks of 4 with a single terminal between them. Have not tried jumping it. I figure even a nearly flat battery would turn the neutral light on, so haven’t bothered trying to get it hooked up to a car.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2018 20:31
|
|
|
builds character posted:How would this be valves if it’s just st s specific rpm? I feel like I’m missing something here. I’m a dummy and don’t know enough about valve clearance symptoms to rule them out and I’m paranoid and reaching for a diagnosis because I didn’t see anything visually wrong with the obvious culprit.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2018 21:26
|
|
|
RadioPassive posted:I’m a dummy and don’t know enough about valve clearance symptoms to rule them out and I’m paranoid and reaching for a diagnosis because I didn’t see anything visually wrong with the obvious culprit. Are you certain it’s tied to the engine speed and not a throttle position? Try dropping a gear and seeing if you can replicate the problem at the same vehicle speed but higher engine speed, and then try to replicate it at a lower vehicle speed but same engine speed. It’s kind of rare that an air/fuel issue is truly rpm-dependent. Alternately, the fact that it has a periodicity to it sounds like the float bow is draining and struggling to refill, indicating an old sticky float needle or clogged screen. Or the float itself isn’t moving freely.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2018 21:37
|
|
|
HenryJLittlefinger posted:Are you certain it’s tied to the engine speed and not a throttle position? Try dropping a gear and seeing if you can replicate the problem at the same vehicle speed but higher engine speed, and then try to replicate it at a lower vehicle speed but same engine speed. It’s kind of rare that an air/fuel issue is truly rpm-dependent. Stutters in 3rd, 4th, and 5th gear around the same engine speeds, and also when revved in neutral. HenryJLittlefinger posted:Alternately, the fact that it has a periodicity to it sounds like the float bow is draining and struggling to refill, indicating an old sticky float needle or clogged screen. Or the float itself isn’t moving freely. Float looked great when I had it out yesterday but I’m planning on trying again and seeing if I missed a speck or something.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2018 22:23
|
|
|
goddamnedtwisto posted:The Motobatt batteries have two sets of terminals (and are in imperial rather than metric) so should be able to fit into a Harley pretty easily. My anecdotal experience leads me to believe motobatt's are terrible garbage and their wide proliferation can be put down entirely to the fact that the asexual terminals mean you can carry half the stock you normally would, and they don't count as dangerous goods so couriering them is cheaper and easier. Deeters posted:CV carb, so you mean the latter for accelerator pump, right? Pulling the carb still sucks when you have to do it outside, so I'm trying to to avoid it. I was turning the throttle at the carb to eliminate the cable hanging up. Yeah that's what I meant, quote/edit don't work on the app so I'm on the laptop now. If you've 100% ruled out vacuum leaks and mechanical faults it pretty much can only be carb related. HenryJLittlefinger posted:Cleaned up battery terminals and main ground from the harness to the engine. Battery charged all night. I get 12.7-13.0 across the main fuse terminals, key on and off. Same across starter relay terminals with key off, and 0.0 with key on. Consistently 0.0 across ignition fuse terminals. There’s a generically named relay assembly that I think is a main relay, but I don’t know how to properly check continuity. It’s got 9 terminals, two banks of 4 with a single terminal between them. What bike is this? I would definitely try jumping it to see what it does. Corrosion-shorted ignition barrel terminals or similar can create the effect you're seeing. Sometimes just riding the bike so everything shakes loose and gets hot makes issues like this go away. RadioPassive posted:Stutters in 3rd, 4th, and 5th gear around the same engine speeds, and also when revved in neutral. First fix your vacuum petcock as they seem to be fragile pieces of poo poo on every bike in existence and it's a cheap thing to try that doesn't introduce mroe variables. If that doesn't work, and you've got no vacuum leaks, I would: - Check the emulsion tube really thoroughly - Check the CV diaphragm extremely carefully, make sure the tiny little vacuum port going to the diaphragm is completely clear and the slide can move up and down smoothly without sticking - Make sure pilot jet and circuit are completely clear, choke isn't sticking on -A worn needle can also cause this kind of behaviour, check to make sure it's got no funny mechanical wear or a groove cut in it near the top. Sitting at low throttle openings for ages (so highway) makes the needle vibrate in the exact same spot every time, eventually it wears to the point that it's noticeable. I can't remember if the KLR has an AC CDI like a true dirt bike but if it does, it's also possible to have a flagging stator source coil that causes issues only at certain RPM's. I know it's a cunty thing to do, but doing a plug chop when it's stuttering (while riding, doing it in neutral tells you nothing) would be informative too. You have to ride at a steady speed and throttle at the revs/throttle position you want to diagnose for 20-30 seconds, then hit the kill switch, shut the throttle and pull in the clutch (in that order but extremely quickly), roll to a stop, pull the plug out and see what it looks like. Blacker = richer, whiter = leaner, ideal is browny grey. If you see white, you're fuel starving. If you see black, you're over-fuelling.
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2018 00:28
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:
I cleaned off all terminals and also the main harness ground terminal and bolt in the back of the engine. With the key on, the starter draws no current. I don’t remember if I mentioned it in a previous post, but when I measure voltage across the terminals on the starter relay with the key off, I get the same voltage as across the terminals on the battery itself. When the key is on, I get 0 across those terminals.
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2018 18:20
|
|
|
HenryJLittlefinger posted:XJ600 Seca/Diversion Ok it's for sure the battery. I dug my jumper cables out and hooked it up to the truck and hey presto. So can I please get an explanation how a battery can read as charged on the tender and on the multimeter, both with the key on and off, but not even get the faintest glow out of the lamps? Is there an interrupter circuit or something? I've had plenty of dead batteries before, but never one that showed a full charge and was a complete brick. Do I still have a problem somewhere in my harness?
|
|
#
?
Jan 1, 2019 06:13
|
|
|
Imagine only filling the battery with acid like 5mm from the bottom. You'd still have a 12V battery, but most of the cell plate area is nonfunctional so even the tiny draw from turning it on overwhelms what's left. When the battery is old and tired it's a similar thing, sulfide deposits or whatever I don't know, suffice it to say the type of (non lithium!) battery it is seems to have no effect. It's a common behavior with old batteries, sometimes using an old-fashioned manual battery charger can bring batteries back from this grave. Intelligent/trickle chargers don't seem able to do this, presumably they judge charge state by voltage IDK. Alternatively there's some other problem that killed the battery, good thing you've got a new battery! Slavvy fucked around with this message at 07:56 on Jan 1, 2019 |
|
#
?
Jan 1, 2019 07:53
|
|
|
.
puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 07:35 on Jan 4, 2020 |
|
#
?
Jan 1, 2019 08:08
|
|
|
HenryJLittlefinger posted:Ok it's for sure the battery. I dug my jumper cables out and hooked it up to the truck and hey presto. Do you know why your battery died? Do you have some parasitic drain? Is it old?
|
|
#
?
Jan 2, 2019 17:09
|
|
|
builds character posted:Do you know why your battery died? Do you have some parasitic drain? Is it old? I don't think there's a parasitic drain. A few years back I had a lovely r/r that was overloading it, but I replaced that. Then I tried to run heated gear without adequate power and fried the replacement r/r. Replaced it, and zero issues otherwise. As I said, it usually stayed on a tender, but I'd forget occasionally. It is a 6-year-old lead/acid though, so maybe the last few weeks of well-below freezing temps in the garage did it in. edit: Dammit I bet I know what it was. I was trying to adjust my horn a couple weeks ago by just clipping it to the battery and playing with the set screw. The battery was probably on its way out anyway and that just killed it entirely. HenryJLittlefinger fucked around with this message at 17:26 on Jan 2, 2019 |
|
#
?
Jan 2, 2019 17:19
|
|
|
HenryJLittlefinger posted:I don't think there's a parasitic drain. A few years back I had a lovely r/r that was overloading it, but I replaced that. Then I tried to run heated gear without adequate power and fried the replacement r/r. Replaced it, and zero issues otherwise. As I said, it usually stayed on a tender, but I'd forget occasionally. It is a 6-year-old lead/acid though, so maybe the last few weeks of well-below freezing temps in the garage did it in. 6 years old? I don't even live in a cold climate and the first thing I would have done is just bought a new battery because I would 100% expect it to just be dead of old age at that point.
|
|
#
?
Jan 2, 2019 22:59
|
|
|
Yeah I don’t remember ever keeping a lead acid battery past 3 years. 6 years? It’s shot, wouldn’t even bother testing.
|
|
#
?
Jan 2, 2019 23:58
|
|
|
I bought my 08 4runner in 2012 and the stock japanese Panasonic battery was still inside. I figured it would die soon enough and would just replace it when the time came. It lasted until 2016 and 130k miles before I finally started having issues with it and replaced it with an interstate when I realized I couldn't get Panasonics in the US.
|
|
#
?
Jan 3, 2019 01:20
|
|
|
Does anyone have any idea how to tighten these hose clamps? They're the OEM part for my 04 Tuono's coolant manifold -> cylinder head connection, but the service manual doesn't say anything about how to actually tighten then, only that I DEFINITELY shouldn't use worm-drive clamps, only these. The Aprilia forums are the usual collection of old wives tales about using some other poo poo that also only happens to be available in America / the UK. They look like metal zip ties to me, but pulling on the free end with pliers does nothing. That said, I'm hesitant to apply much force because, as with all things Aprilia in Australia, getting another set on back order will take months.  
|
|
#
?
Jan 6, 2019 07:43
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 5, 2024 11:31 |
|
|
Hahahahahaha
|
|
#
?
Jan 6, 2019 07:48
|
|