|
We had like a 50% success rate with aftermarket fork seals at the shop, so we do all OEM now. I have no idea why this should be the case, if you're replacing a seal in anything else like a motor or a transmission, they're all built to the same precise standards, they all work perfectly. But with forks, half the time they didn't even fit.
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2019 04:43
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 5, 2024 11:35 |
|
|
Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:We had like a 50% success rate with aftermarket fork seals at the shop, so we do all OEM now. I have no idea why this should be the case, if you're replacing a seal in anything else like a motor or a transmission, they're all built to the same precise standards, they all work perfectly. But with forks, half the time they didn't even fit. This has been my experience too.
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2019 07:26
|
|
|
The only good aftermarket seal is SKF, but they're not cheap.
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2019 11:47
|
|
|
How long will a riveted chain link last if I definitely pressed the plate on a little too hard and squished the orings?
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2019 15:22
|
|
|
RadioPassive posted:How long will a riveted chain link last if I definitely pressed the plate on a little too hard and squished the orings? Not as long as it takes to get another one.
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2019 20:01
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:Not as long as it takes to get another one. That's like poetry. 
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2019 00:02
|
|
|
Re: fork seals Get a proper diameter driver. I've seen quite a few old seals that have screwdriver impressions on them.
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2019 00:54
|
|
|
RadioPassive posted:How long will a riveted chain link last if I definitely pressed the plate on a little too hard and squished the orings? It will last until the o-rings work themselves out of the links, the lubrication fails and the plates eat through the pin. So basically  Dont roll around with a botched chain though, its one of those things on the bike that can genuinely injure you or others when it fails
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2019 16:50
|
|
|
After trying threadlock and trying regular tightening, I have accepted that my fazer's fuel tank bolts will occasionally ping off and I now have a box of £4 worth of stainless steel M6 bolts and washers for this reason alone. The threading is intact on the frame so it's not that either. I think it's at a magic spot on the frame where the I4 rattles in just the right way. Azza Bamboo fucked around with this message at 19:22 on Aug 28, 2019 |
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2019 19:17
|
|
|
I put mine in finger tight, and was like "eh, it'll be good for a ride" It wasn't, fortunately Givi gives you lots of extra bolts to jam in there when needed. It's almost like the engine vibration forces them out. Still, the new ones haven't backed out in over 12kmi, sure they're torqued right? Have you tried going until it gets easier and backing off half a turn?
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2019 00:26
|
|
|
Two questions: first, on the Rex, for the first couple of roll-ons from a stop as the engine is warming up, I can feel a grinding/buzzing vibration from low in the engine or possibly below it as I let the clutch out, somewhere in the 2000s rpm. Once warm, this stops. (There's an entirely different vibration around 2800, from a similar place, that doesn't go away when warm that I'm reasonably certain is just resonance.) Any ideas? Is my clutch preparing to eat poo poo? Second, any recommendations for a dash clock? That, the seat, and fuel injection are about the only things I'm missing from riding the Wee right now.
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2019 02:20
|
|
|
Phy posted:Second, any recommendations for a dash clock? Can't help with the clutch, but I seem to recall someone posting their bike with an analog Timex stuck to their dash and it looked better than it had any right to. Damned if I can find it though
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2019 03:19
|
|
|
Jazzzzz posted:Can't help with the clutch, but I seem to recall someone posting their bike with an analog Timex stuck to their dash and it looked better than it had any right to. Damned if I can find it though That was me. Buy a ten dollar analog watch at target, take off the band, optionally file off the lugs, stick it onto the top yoke with VHB tape. I used 3M 4991, which is the same stuff as on a GoPro mount. Works great.
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2019 03:49
|
|
|
VHB is some crazy loving poo poo, comes off surprisingly well for something that's essentially a permanent affixment method too, relatively cheap from the usual scumbags too.
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2019 05:06
|
|
|
Phy posted:Two questions: first, on the Rex, for the first couple of roll-ons from a stop as the engine is warming up, I can feel a grinding/buzzing vibration from low in the engine or possibly below it as I let the clutch out, somewhere in the 2000s rpm. Once warm, this stops. (There's an entirely different vibration around 2800, from a similar place, that doesn't go away when warm that I'm reasonably certain is just resonance.) Any ideas? Is my clutch preparing to eat poo poo? I can't recall if the rex has a compensator of some kind between the crank and clutch but that would be my first suspect, corrugated clutch basket fingers can also do that. Sometimes changing oil brands or composition can help stuff like that.
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2019 06:18
|
|
|
My GoPro is chin mounted with VHB tape and a 3D printed adapter from Hell Mounts. I wasn't really sure it was going to hold up at first, but you can put your head sideways at very high speeds and it doesn't bother the tape at all. It has to bond between the two surfaces for a while, I think it was a few days, but it really is impressively strong.
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2019 06:22
|
|
|
I don't actually have enough experience to confidently read spark plugs, but based on what a few sites say they should/shouldn't look like, these look fine to me. Do they look fine to you? 
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2019 21:41
|
|
|
they look fine to me, and as long as they gap fine and the bike runs fine I'd call them fine but that being said, if I pulled my plugs I'd just replace them because why not
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2019 21:52
|
|
|
The bike runs fine, but over the last couple weeks I've noticed more noise than usual coming from my primary, so I checked/adjusted my primary chain (it was loose). But to check the chain in more than one spot, I had to be in gear and spin the rear wheel, which I couldn't do, even in 5th, without pulling the plugs to avoid compression. (It worked but is this a reasonable thing to do?) So I wasn't pulling the plugs because I thought there was anything wrong with them, they just happened to be out so I snapped a photo.
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2019 22:11
|
|
|
Why did you have to be in gear and not neutral? Alternatively, if you had to be in gear, why not click into neutral, move tire, click back into first, check chain?
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2019 22:13
|
|
|
Oh balls, I have some water in my LCD. I use plastic shopping bags on sensitive bits when I clean it off but I guess I screwed up. Just noticed it now for the first time because the bike was in the sun for like half an hour. Any neat “one simple trick” for this? Can I put my entire motorcycle in a bag of rice?
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2019 22:26
|
|
|
epalm posted:The bike runs fine, but over the last couple weeks I've noticed more noise than usual coming from my primary, so I checked/adjusted my primary chain (it was loose). But to check the chain in more than one spot, I had to be in gear and spin the rear wheel, which I couldn't do, even in 5th, without pulling the plugs to avoid compression. (It worked but is this a reasonable thing to do?) Guessing this is a Harley? Those plugs are fine. You did the right thing turning it with the wheel. If you're hearing/feeling noises from the primary, the culprit is almost always the compensator sprocket. What kind of model is it specifically?
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2019 22:28
|
|
|
Phy posted:Why did you have to be in gear and not neutral? I'm referring to the primary chain, not the final drive (which on post-1993 Sportsters is actually a belt, not a chain). Slavvy posted:Guessing this is a Harley? Those plugs are fine. Yes, 2013 Sportster, 1200 Custom. It's quieter now after adjusting the primary chain so I'm hoping the compensator is still OK  for now, but yeah, I've read they're a weak point, especially if you've done any performance upgrades.
epswing fucked around with this message at 22:58 on Aug 29, 2019 |
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2019 22:48
|
|
|
epalm posted:I'm referring to the primary chain, not the final drive (which on post-1993 Sportsters is actually a belt, not a chain). On sportsters it's not that big a deal, usually they gently caress out on big twins. IMO there are only really two things to worry about in a sporty primary: the weak as poo poo gear shifter linkage, and the riveted dual clutch plate that always blows up and is completely unnecessary. Neither of these are a big fix, albeit the clutch needs a simple special tool to do the job. Have you changed your gear oil? Different oils can have drastic effects on gear shifts and clutch operation on Harleys, to the point where it's used a tuning method. Try changing to a different type/grade and see if anything changes for you.
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2019 23:20
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:That was me. Could you post a picture of it?
|
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2019 09:43
|
|
|
Phy posted:Two questions: first, on the Rex, for the first couple of roll-ons from a stop as the engine is warming up, I can feel a grinding/buzzing vibration from low in the engine or possibly below it as I let the clutch out, somewhere in the 2000s rpm. Once warm, this stops. (There's an entirely different vibration around 2800, from a similar place, that doesn't go away when warm that I'm reasonably certain is just resonance.) Any ideas? Is my clutch preparing to eat poo poo? Is the vibe different from how it used to be? If not, perhaps it's just the way it is. Combustion egines are controlled chaos.
|
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2019 15:12
|
|
|
Ola posted:Is the vibe different from how it used to be? If not, perhaps it's just the way it is. Combustion egines are controlled chaos. Well, that's the lovely part, I don't remember this vibration but my brain is a known liar. I didn't get to ride it much after I bought it or last year, so it may be me becoming accustomed to the drat thing. I recorded the noise for the zrx board, where they let you upload .zip files... SA isn't quite that reckless, so I also uploaded it to this link https://vocaroo.com/i/s1t3ULWJHHib If that doesn't work, where's a better place to upload it? E; guess I'm pulling my clutch apart next week. Oy. Phy fucked around with this message at 02:43 on Aug 31, 2019 |
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2019 18:16
|
|
|
Phy posted:Well, that's the lovely part, I don't remember this vibration but my brain is a known liar. I know the feeling. It sounds like there is a rattle there, but I'm not at all sure it isn't supposed to be there. Opening the clutch isn't major surgery, it doesn't hurt to take a peek. Clean the clutch cover as best you can before, and leave the bike on the side stand, then you don't get grit falling into the oil.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2019 02:52
|
|
|
It appears that my great misadventure in the Southeast is coming to an end, and that moving to the Northeast with off-roading Conti TKC80s are offered for 17” wheels front and rear and would be a good compromise for a bike that will probably spend about 10% of its time on fire trails (which is 200% more time than the GSAs that came with them stock will ever see lmao). However, the front is offered in a 120 width vs 110 stock, and the rear is an 80 height (?) ratio vs stock of 70. Will this gently caress up the handling of the bike to dangerous levels, or can I jump 10 points on the width or height ratios without creating too much of a hazard for myself? Edit: The TKCs are actually too aggressive for my road/offroad ratio, but the question still stands to “can I bump up or down one ratio without killing the handling of the bike?” Maybe some MT60s, anything that can clear dirt better than the Diablo Rosso II’s that are on it now. funeral home DJ fucked around with this message at 15:15 on Sep 6, 2019 |
|
#
?
Sep 6, 2019 15:09
|
|
|
Ripoff posted:It appears that my great misadventure in the Southeast is coming to an end, and that moving to the Northeast with off-roading Profile changes that small, especially on a bouncy tall motard, are barely detectable at all. I'm surprised a modern bike like that would even come with a 110 front to begin with.
|
|
#
?
Sep 6, 2019 19:18
|
|
|
Ripoff posted:It appears that my great misadventure in the Southeast is coming to an end, and that moving to the Northeast with off-roading On my WR250X, I went from the stock 110/70 140/70 Battleax's to the TKC80's in 120/70/17 and 150/70/17. 140/80 is another option but that is a .5" larger diameter. Through 300 miles of 50/50 tarmac/trails I've haven't noticed any major change to the way the bike handles. I've been very impressed with the tires both on and off road, they have the appearance of a blocky knobby tire but the blocks are very large and wide, so there is always good contact with the road. They are slightly louder than the stockers and have a bit less grip, but the trade off is worth it.
|
|
#
?
Sep 6, 2019 19:35
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:Profile changes that small, especially on a bouncy tall motard, are barely detectable at all. I'm surprised a modern bike like that would even come with a 110 front to begin with. Yeah it’s an oddball machine in a billion ways, but it’s also the first bike I’ve ever been able to really lean down to the point where I was scrubbing off more front tire than ever, so it works, I guess. Gorson posted:On my WR250X, I went from the stock 110/70 140/70 Battleax's to the TKC80's in 120/70/17 and 150/70/17. 140/80 is another option but that is a .5" larger diameter. Through 300 miles of 50/50 tarmac/trails I've haven't noticed any major change to the way the bike handles. I've been very impressed with the tires both on and off road, they have the appearance of a blocky knobby tire but the blocks are very large and wide, so there is always good contact with the road. They are slightly louder than the stockers and have a bit less grip, but the trade off is worth it. Thanks, and awesome that you have the exact experience I was looking to hear about. I was a bit afraid that the aggressive-for-DOT knobs would result in it wandering on the street (which is something I remember well from my trail tractor RT180 days on cinder mining “streets” into the back woods) and thought about getting a set with a more traditional solid stripe down the center for when you’re just going straight. I’m a terrible rider anyways and barely push my bikes relatively speaking, so trading off streetability for not kicking my rear end off the bike when I whisky throttle it over loose dirt would be a good trade-off. Now to see if Revzilla does any sales on the tires over the winter.
|
|
#
?
Sep 6, 2019 21:14
|
|
|
Ripoff posted:Yeah it’s an oddball machine in a billion ways, but it’s also the first bike I’ve ever been able to really lean down to the point where I was scrubbing off more front tire than ever, so it works, I guess. High five, I am also a terrible rider. A DOT knobbie is going to be worlds different than the TKC's. Much louder, more prone to wandering, far fewer miles before they're knackered, but much better offroad. I'd say the TKCs are about 75/25 tires street/dirt. The tread depth isn't all that deep and in mud they get a bit slick. My other options were the Shinko SR244 which I have used and liked, and something like the Distanzia or Shinko 705 which I haven't tried but seems more on-road oriented. *fake edit* I see Shinko now makes a TKC-alike, but sadly it does not come in a 17" front: https://www.shinkotireusa.com/product/e804e805-adventure-trail-series-tire/211930
|
|
#
?
Sep 6, 2019 21:42
|
|
|
I kinda beg to differ with that ratio, the TKC-80 is a pretty drat good off-road tire, like 90% as good as a nice set of Washougals or Ibexs in most terrain, they fall a little short in thick, sticky mud, because the lugs kinda suck at self-cleaning, but over rocky or sandy terrain the difference is barely noticable, and they handle small puddles and mud patches okay. Here is my motorcycle on top of a mountain as an example, it did just as well as that full-on non-dot knobby equipped bike did, better on some of the steep rock faces you have to climb to get up here.  They are pretty well mannered on the street for all that.
|
|
#
?
Sep 7, 2019 02:45
|
|
|
Elviscat posted:I kinda beg to differ with that ratio, the TKC-80 is a pretty drat good off-road tire, like 90% as good as a nice set of Washougals or Ibexs in most terrain, they fall a little short in thick, sticky mud, because the lugs kinda suck at self-cleaning, but over rocky or sandy terrain the difference is barely noticable, and they handle small puddles and mud patches okay. I'm not much of a dirt person, but on the road my old, massively lovely pre-bmw TE250, equipped with tkc80s, was limited entirely by stability and sanity on the parts of the chassis and rider respectively. I never felt any shortage of grip, even in the rain they are just amazingly good road tyres. The shinko mimics are pretty much equal in every way except maybe longevity I dunno. I suspect being mounted to anorexic enduros does a lot to flatter a tyre, but that just sounds like yet another argument for less is more, lighter better.
|
|
#
?
Sep 7, 2019 07:26
|
|
|
Slavvy
|
|
#
?
Sep 7, 2019 15:13
|
|
|
I need your opinion on the new photos I took, Mr. Motorcycle Selling Specialist.
The Bananana fucked around with this message at 16:05 on Sep 7, 2019 |
|
#
?
Sep 7, 2019 15:15
|
|
|
Elviscat posted:I kinda beg to differ with that ratio, the TKC-80 is a pretty drat good off-road tire, like 90% as good as a nice set of Washougals or Ibexs in most terrain, they fall a little short in thick, sticky mud, because the lugs kinda suck at self-cleaning, but over rocky or sandy terrain the difference is barely noticable, and they handle small puddles and mud patches okay. I respectfully disagree. I think a tkc80 is adequate for dirt and that’s it. For me, there’s a noticeable difference between the tkc80 and non-DOT knobbies. But it’s definitely a good compromise for “I want to run mostly street but hit some fire roads too.”
|
|
#
?
Sep 7, 2019 16:02
|
|
|
While we're on gaskets (nobody was talking about gaskets) what are thoughts on making your own from gasket paper? Real ones aren't hugely expensive but it seems like a cool idea to make your own (Fortnine told me to)
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2019 08:16
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 5, 2024 11:35 |
|
|
Shelvocke posted:While we're on gaskets (nobody was talking about gaskets) what are thoughts on making your own from gasket paper? Works real good, sometimes the only option.
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2019 09:13
|
|