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A week ago, it was mild enough for me to get a car wash, which I mainly wanted so the undercarriage could get cleaned. As I waited at the entrance to the facility, one of the attendants unscrewed my antenna and handed it to me through the window. I had been to that car wash on numerous occasions, and they had never done that before. Frankly, I didn't realize it unscrewed just like that, and I actually would prefer not to have it on the car anyway. I never listen to AM/FM radio, and had previously contemplated installing a power retractable antenna just to get it out of the way. My question is, is there something I should screw in place of the antenna, just to make sure it doesn't get full of crap or something? If such a purpose-made item existed, I wouldn't know what it's called (I tried searching for "car antenna plug" and similar, to no avail); I suppose I could check out the threads on the antenna and find an identical bolt to screw in there, but that's kind of ghetto.  Any thoughts?
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Feb 26, 2010 03:41
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Atomizer posted:A week ago, it was mild enough for me to get a car wash, which I mainly wanted so the undercarriage could get cleaned. As I waited at the entrance to the facility, one of the attendants unscrewed my antenna and handed it to me through the window. I had been to that car wash on numerous occasions, and they had never done that before. Frankly, I didn't realize it unscrewed just like that, and I actually would prefer not to have it on the car anyway. I never listen to AM/FM radio, and had previously contemplated installing a power retractable antenna just to get it out of the way. My question is, is there something I should screw in place of the antenna, just to make sure it doesn't get full of crap or something? If such a purpose-made item existed, I wouldn't know what it's called (I tried searching for "car antenna plug" and similar, to no avail); I suppose I could check out the threads on the antenna and find an identical bolt to screw in there, but that's kind of ghetto. Read that. I unscrewed mine a while ago and just left it like that, I still get good FM reception when I want to listen to NPR so I'm coo'
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Feb 26, 2010 05:08
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destructo posted:http://clubroadster.net/vb_forum/showthread.php?t=27025 Thanks for that thread. I think this is along the lines of what I'm looking for: http://www.gomiata.com/gemaanhopl.html ...except it comes to $15 after shipping. I won't completely rule it out, but if it's an OEM part I'll see what it runs from the dealer (others in that thread quoted it at $3.) Also, I can't tell if it's just a plug and a cover for the antenna mast or for the entire antenna assembly when removed. I have no desire to remove the whole thing; I would even consider just removing the mast and leaving it open. Googling for "miata antenna plug" didn't yield results that were useful to me. I have to contact the dealer anyways for a new set of lug nuts; the ones on my car are rusting, and I'm assuming they are the OEM ones. Although I can obviously find all sorts of replacements, I want an exact match: they're acorn, closed, solid stainless steel, and most importantly, only 20mm tall. I can find much taller ones with those attributes, and short open ones, but can't find these exact ones anywhere online or in stores, so I'm assuming they're OE. I also need to replace my shift knob, Mazda part # M518-17-520A (black leather, Nardi badge, shift pattern embossed on top.) I mean, it doesn't have to be exactly the same thing, but I'd like it to. I know it's going to cost $100+. But hey, I use it every day, so it's not like it's just for show. My battery is still strong, but it's at least 7 years old and I want to replace it with an AGM battery of course, as opposed to letting it die and being without a car for several days while I wait for a new one to ship, or having to purchase a wet-cell battery. I'm going with the WestCo (unless someone convinces me otherwise,) and likely from this vendor: http://www.batteryweb.com/miata.cfm. The free shipping is helpful, especially at that price. It seems like the price of that specific battery has gone up over the past several years. Finally, I found hardtop carts at a much better price: these are about half as much as those linked in one of my previous posts (~$150 vs. ~$250). http://www.miatazone.com/products/Cart--Cover--Hard-Top/25787/900-040.html http://www.miatazone.com/products/gb/Mazda/Miata-MX5/Carrier--hardtop--Folding/25788/900-042.html
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Feb 27, 2010 04:15
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crutt posted:Now if only I could find a stock front lip and 15" LS wheel. When you paint that hardtop evo orange and get the stock lip (I hope you do ) you're going to have my dream miata minus some engine mods, congratulations! That color is just fantastic. Also, are those not the 15" LS wheels? I have the 15" LS wheels on my car and they look the same to me??
Brain Issues fucked around with this message at 06:16 on Feb 27, 2010 |
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Feb 27, 2010 06:10
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Anybody have any interest in trading roll bars? I have the Hard Dog Hardcore Double Diagonal hardtop version and I fear I will need the non hardtop version for the broomstick test for HPDE's. Any short dudes want to swap? Located in Cincinnati. I shouldn't have listened to the guy at Bethania Garage when I asked him which he thought I should get. Ugh.
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Feb 27, 2010 21:51
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Just keep the hardtop on, and remove a bunch of foam from the seat bottom.
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Feb 27, 2010 22:25
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^^^^ yeah, google "Foamectomy" DreamOn13 posted:Anybody have any interest in trading roll bars? I have the Hard Dog Hardcore Double Diagonal hardtop version and I fear I will need the non hardtop version for the broomstick test for HPDE's. Any short dudes want to swap? Located in Cincinnati. I shouldn't have listened to the guy at Bethania Garage when I asked him which he thought I should get. Ugh. I have the exact same roll bar (also at the advice of the Bethania garage guy) and also have trouble passing the broomstick test.  The non-hardtop version sits further forward, and you don't want it too close to your head either. I think an aftermarket race bucket will help- especially if you bolt it straight in without using any rails.e: while I'm here I might as well ask about this problem I'm having (also posted on m.net and mt.net): My car was running just fine until last night when I went to start it and as soon as I put the key in "RUN" before I've even tried to turn the engine, I just hear a bunch of relays clicking in unison. If I try to start the car, it will crank but not fire (presumably because it's not getting fuel or spark). Is this a relay failure mode, or should I look elsewhere? I am also running MegaSquirt PNP, so that's another variable in the equation. What I notice while the relays are clicking is that one light on the MegaSquirt (the stuff that lights up the logo) stays on and the other one flashes with the relays. Also the radiator fan comes on and stays on while the relays are clicking. I suspect that is just a symptom of the MegaSquirt not being in a fully ready state because it's not getting the correct power to start up? (hence why the car doesn't start) I did some searching, and found a few references to "clicking under the cowl" being the fuel pump relay, which sort of makes sense. The MegaSquirt normally tries the prime the fuel pump when you switch to RUN, and if that's not succeeding, maybe it keeps restarting or something? Hog Obituary fucked around with this message at 23:08 on Feb 27, 2010 |
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Feb 27, 2010 22:52
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I don't have a hard top, but that bar was suggested since it sits further back. I'm about 6'1" and already did the foamectomy and now the seat is a bit lower, but pretty uncomfortable. I bought 2 Sparco Sprint V's to put in the car to get lower and bolt them directly to the floor (cutting the rear seat mounts off, keeping the fronts for now) but I still have doubts I guess. Even sitting on the floor without a seat in the car with my helmet I feel like I'm still too close. I guess I'll know for sure this week once I get the seat in. And just getting a hard top to pass that rule isn't smart in my opinion. I'd rather have some protection in case I do actually roll, however small the possibility may be.
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Feb 27, 2010 23:50
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DreamOn13 posted:I don't have a hard top, but that bar was suggested since it sits further back. I'm about 6'1" and already did the foamectomy and now the seat is a bit lower, but pretty uncomfortable. I bought 2 Sparco Sprint V's to put in the car to get lower and bolt them directly to the floor (cutting the rear seat mounts off, keeping the fronts for now) but I still have doubts I guess. Even sitting on the floor without a seat in the car with my helmet I feel like I'm still too close. I guess I'll know for sure this week once I get the seat in.
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Feb 27, 2010 23:53
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New Philadelphia, Ohio goon represent  Just got around to uploading these pictures, had this for a few months now. '93 5spd, zero power options, 100,008 miles when I bought her (~104,485 now). Meticulously maintained 2 owner car with all records from both owners (though records of standard oil changes from 1PO amount from reading the sharpie writings on the wall in 1PO's garage). Cost me a cool $2.5K. Not bad I shouldn't think, especially when considering the upkeep / goodies that came with.  Click here for the full 1600x1200 image.  Click here for the full 1600x1200 image. She's dirty as hell at the moment, but as soon as the weather clears up a bit in this area ( snow  ) I'll be wash/claybarring/taking Panasports off and scrubbing them down. I love love love love driving her.(Sorry for blurry rear end pictures, it's a cellphone camera  )
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Feb 28, 2010 02:49
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Hog Obituary posted:Well have you tried the broomstick test yourself? (you know, with a broomstick) Nice car, Khan. Looks like a pretty good deal to me. Sitting directly on the floor, yes. And I've only got an inch and a half at best. I'll have to test fit it with the seat in there and see if it's going to make it. Do most tracks/organizations just make sure you clear the broom test or do they really push for 2" below it? No way I can make that.
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Feb 28, 2010 04:36
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I've only done 2 track days, but they never did a broomstick test on me. One time they said they could see my head and the instructor's above the rollbar, but were okay with me just leaning the seat back more. They just did it by sight. (this was at Thunderhill with SCCA)
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Feb 28, 2010 04:40
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Brain Issues posted:Also, are those not the 15" LS wheels? I have the 15" LS wheels on my car and they look the same to me?? I think he's looking for a stock wheel to replace his mismatched right rear. And I agree, that color's cool. 
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Feb 28, 2010 06:18
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While driving a few nights ago, I noticed a very slight humming noise that occurs only when I steer to the right. As soon as the wheel is straight or I steer left, it's gone. It's pretty quiet, but I hate having things wrong with my car. I jacked it up and checked wheel play, there is a vary small bit of slack in the steering, but nothing else as far as I can see. Does anyone have any ideas what's going on? edit: 1994 NA, with power steering, if that helps.
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Feb 28, 2010 10:57
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Make sure that your lugs are tight, then give the wheel in question a good tug left/right and up/down. There shouldn't be any play, if there is, then you're looking at a new wheel bearing.
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Feb 28, 2010 11:04
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Could possibly be a tie rod/ball joint. Up/down play I usually think ball joint and left/right I think tie rod.
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Feb 28, 2010 13:25
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Dschingis Khan posted:New Philadelphia, Ohio goon represent Wanna hang out and talk about miatas?
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Mar 1, 2010 02:42
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With summer approaching i'm thinking about tearing down my doors and putting in some new speakers. I have factory tweeters at the top of the door and speakers in the windblocker, is it worth trying to replace them all or just disconnect them and put some components in the doors? (Or leave them connected?) Also would it be worth putting a small amp in the passenger footwell and running a sub behind a seat or somewhere similar? I might soundproof the doors while I have them apart. Finally, suggestions for suitable speakers etc are welcome as I know gently caress all about it. I'm not looking for THUMPIN DRUM N BASS window rattling just something a bit louder so I can listen to music with the top down at 70mph or so.
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Mar 1, 2010 19:03
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On the topic of speakers, my tweeters are shot, so were the door speakers when I got the car. I replaced the door speakers with some cheap 3-ways so I could just unplug the tweeters, but does anyone have any recommendations for replacement tweeters in the doors?
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Mar 1, 2010 19:39
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Nnnnnnnnnngh. I've had problems with my 1.6 '90 for a while. I was getting really low oil pressure on hot idle - the needle was barely off the bottom stop after a long drive, and there was quite a bit of smoke out of the exhaust when idling in the garage. At the same time, oil was constantly weeping out of the sides of the cam cover even after new gaskets and PCV valve and another load was disappearing elsewhere. My mechanic took a look and found oil caked everywhere around the outside of the block, even up inside the timing belt - no idea how it happened. It was going through a small bottle of oil a fortnight by the end. He said it was the worst 1.6 engine he'd seen. He reckoned that a piston ring had gone, and recommended that it would be easiest to source a used 1.6 short block and swap it in. We found an engine from a rear-end crash that had had the accessories removed. He did a new timing belt and water pump, swapped my accessories over and fit the engine. Two weeks go past after the fitting and all of a sudden i've found a bit of oil weeping out of the sides of my 'new' engine's cam cover and around the PCV again. I can smell it through the hood after a long drive. Aaargh! The difference is the oil pressure: it seems OK at hot idle, sitting just down at 11o'clock and at 4000RPM+ at 1-2o'clock / 4kg/cm². It's rattly when it's cold but OK when warmed up, and the PCV doesn't seem blocked. I hope that it's just a bit of bad luck with the gasket perhaps being old; i've ordered a new one (and a CAS seal at the same time) and HOPEFULLY it'll seal and not actually be indicative of a deeper problem again. Has anyone else experienced this? I know i'm being jumpy because of my old engine, but i'm worried by the weepage. Are those oil pressure readings OK, coarse as they are from a 20-year-old gauge? I bloody wish oil would stay INSIDE my 1.6s
meltie fucked around with this message at 23:24 on Mar 1, 2010 |
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Mar 1, 2010 20:34
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Slothophile posted:With summer approaching i'm thinking about tearing down my doors and putting in some new speakers. I have factory tweeters at the top of the door and speakers in the windblocker, is it worth trying to replace them all or just disconnect them and put some components in the doors? (Or leave them connected?) well, you can forget passengers if you put a sub behind the seat, but there are options. 1) bass tube in the passenger footwell 2)install free-air subs on the parcel shelf (not so great with the top down) 3)a box in the trunk. I did this, and with the hardtop on, it doesn't sound half bad. ask me again when I take it off this spring though. as for speakers: TyroneShoes posted:How about this tyroneshoes recommended me a few speakers in his Car Audio Megathread, unfortunately I can't buy any of them since they don't appear to be available in Germany
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Mar 1, 2010 22:56
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Blaise posted:Wanna hang out and talk about miatas? B...but you're like 7 hours+ away from New Phila, Ohio if you're from Phila, PA. 
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Mar 1, 2010 23:37
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Frank Dillinger posted:1) bass tube in the passenger footwell
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Mar 2, 2010 01:11
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How do you guys shift from 4th to 5th? In my 2007 NC it seems like significant effort is required to get into 5th, otherwise I'll gently caress up and grind. I usually try to push it away from me with the center of my palm, upside down. However, I have to be real careful, or I grind sometimes; I've gotten much better since I bought it, but I am wondering how you guys do it.
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Mar 2, 2010 02:17
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Protip: use the clutch.
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Mar 2, 2010 02:18
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pacheco posted:How do you guys shift from 4th to 5th? In my 2007 NC it seems like significant effort is required to get into 5th, otherwise I'll gently caress up and grind. It does take a little bit more effort than the rest of the gears, I've found, but maybe that's just me. Either way it's only just noticeable. To sum up, do what Phone said. Or see a mechanic if it's really that difficult and grinds as often as you say.
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Mar 2, 2010 02:23
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Phone posted:Protip: use the clutch.
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Mar 2, 2010 02:30
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I do use the clutch, I think it's just a matter of getting used to putting it in 5th. I'm afraid of putting it into 3rd, so I'm always extra careful, however, I think I sometimes take out the clutch too soon and I end up grinding.
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Mar 2, 2010 03:36
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Use the spring action of the box to move the shifter around, don't literally death-grip and force the shifter around. Doing that is how most every misshift I've personally witnessed happens. Nudge the shifter out of 4th, but allow the spring to do most of the moving. As it springs back into neutral, apply gentle but firm rightward pressure while now pushing it forward from neutral and it will slide right into 5th every time. Do it fluidly and it should be one smooth motion. For the 4-5 shift, I like to keep the shifter somewhat in between my thumb and forefinger (down in the webbing between them) so that I can apply rightward pressure and push forward easily. The same principles apply for all the other shifts, just adjust accordingly. Push and pull, don't grip and force. Guinness fucked around with this message at 07:34 on Mar 2, 2010 |
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Mar 2, 2010 07:29
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It's only rape if you hear it grind, right?
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Mar 2, 2010 09:14
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Frank Dillinger posted:1) bass tube in the passenger footwell How about putting some 8" two way speakers in the door? Powered by a good amp, you should have enough bass to satisfy anyone.
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Mar 2, 2010 10:29
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buzzomatic posted:How about putting some 8" two way speakers in the door? Powered by a good amp, you should have enough bass to satisfy anyone. this is what I'm going to do. Focal make some very nice 8" coaxials. They go down to 50 real hz i haven't found any other manufacturers of 8" drivers in Australia
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Mar 2, 2010 13:29
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Fifth is harder to get into on my car as well. I never understood why, it just takes more effort to push it in.
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Mar 2, 2010 21:36
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You have to push mine a little harder but it slides in like silk.
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Mar 2, 2010 21:37
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Has anyone done audio upgrades in their NB? I've taken off my door panel and am attempting to fix a bad Bose speaker. I'm having a hard time getting the epoxy off of the magnet though so I can get in there and see what is up. I got this out of my left door, I've had terrible buzzing from this speaker intermittently. I'm following a guide that was posted at Miata.net to fix it. Edit: Been wrestling with this speaker. The buzzing has gotten so bad that I really don't care if this speaker dies, I would just swap the passenger one over to the drivers side if that happens. I'm pretty sure the passenger side tweeter doesn't work anyway, but I can't tell. Any tips for removing heavy-duty epoxy stuff that is holding the outer part of the coil onto the body of the speaker? If I use a solvent would it kill the rest of the speaker / possibly my door when I put it back into the car? Twerk from Home fucked around with this message at 23:22 on Mar 2, 2010 |
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Mar 2, 2010 23:12
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Anyone still waiting on the FM headlight group buy would probably like to know that if you ordered yours mid-february(I ordered on the 18th) that they will hopefully be at your door by mid-march. I'm loving whiner so I called to see when I could expect them. The nice lady said they had two more pallets on order and that they should all(ish) be out by the end of the month, tops.
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Mar 4, 2010 10:18
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Yeah mine shipped already. Should be here today I think. 
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Mar 4, 2010 22:42
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Mine are already on the car. 
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Mar 5, 2010 00:17
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Guinness posted:Use the spring action of the box to move the shifter around, don't literally death-grip and force the shifter around. Doing that is how most every misshift I've personally witnessed happens. This guy right here. I tried your method and I would say I gently caress up shifts a lot less. Thanks broseion!
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Mar 5, 2010 07:14
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Guinness posted:Use the spring action of the box to move the shifter around, don't literally death-grip and force the shifter around. Doing that is how most every misshift I've personally witnessed happens. So true. Although I used to do it exactly how you describe, I think my 4-5 shift has been getting worse. Maybe I'm just paying less attention, maybe this Winter is really eating away at me (hopefully less than a month left until the top comes off and the wheels get swapped!), or maybe I really need to rebuild the shifter. First of all I'll open it up and see if there's any transmission fluid in the turret (I doubt it.) I have been looking through some miata.net threads on the shifter rebuild but it's confusing to begin with. Is there actually a kit somewhere or do I have to order parts individually?
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Mar 5, 2010 08:07
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