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The ol dick twist! I have the very same shirt that dick twist guy is wearing. It was meant to be
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May 28, 2020 03:07
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Patrocclesiastes posted:Noticed a pretty loud whine from the rear of the strom, its a wheel bearing going, right? Or anything else i should check? It can be all kinds of things. I'd lift the rear, take the chain off the rear sprocket and spin the wheel. You can tell when the bearing is going. e: pull the brake pads as well I guess so nothing is rubbing, if needed
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May 28, 2020 06:59
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Yeah that could be any number of things up to and including totally psychological. You have to investigate at least a little bit deeper than biek makes noise plz help.
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May 28, 2020 07:25
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Thanks, Thought as much too. I dont think its the brakes, I did some riding and deliberately avoided using the rear brake, the rotor didnt get warm at all, so I dont think thats rubbing, but guess it wouldnt hurt to check that too. I need to get a rear stand for the bike so I can get the rear up, I dont have a garage i can work in here where I live, but at least its in a parking garage, I should be able to do something.
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May 28, 2020 10:35
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Patrocclesiastes posted:I dont think its the brakes, I did some riding and deliberately avoided using the rear brake, the rotor didnt get warm at all, so I dont think thats rubbing, but guess it wouldnt hurt to check that too. While it could be the brakes, in this case I meant that normal brake pad rubbing can mask bearing noises. You can try just spinning with everything on, you might be able to tell a bad bearing even with some other noises. But with no chain and pads on, there's definitely nothing dragging on it and the wheel should just spin perfectly and quietly for a long time if the bearings are good.
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May 28, 2020 10:40
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Patrocclesiastes posted:I need to get a rear stand for the bike so I can get the rear up Speaking of lifting bikes, I have a 98 Shadow Spirit and the engine sits below the bottom frame rails, so my jack won't work.  What type of jack would work for a bike that needed 4 separate lifting points? Or am I looking at getting 4 individual jacks? (This sounds dumb.) Or do I need to build a wooden sled/cradle that I can use with my current jack? Why the hell is the engine lower than the frame hmmm?
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May 28, 2020 14:49
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Front and rear pitbull stands? I have yet to come across a bike I can’t get completely off the ground with mine.
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May 28, 2020 14:57
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Stupid question: Bike starts normally most of the time If I get off the bike, turn it off, and leave it for hours, it starts fine If I get off the bike for a few minutes to fuel it or take some photos, it can be hard to restart - cranks but doesn't want to light - only done this to me twice this year However, if I crank for more than a few seconds it runs out of juice - the starter slows down until it won't turn over - seems like I should be able to try to crank longer than that Bump starts and runs just fine Probably the main issue is just a lovely battery? I expect the hot restart issue is something different and related to carburetion being based on wacky physics instead of PUMP GAS THRU NOZL AND ENGIN GO BANGE e: also whoever was the first person to tell me to bump start in 2nd, thank you so much, that made it way easier on the strom and is still helpful with the rex
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May 28, 2020 16:14
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Phy posted:Stupid question: What bike? The answer to this question differs depending on if the bike is carbureted or fuel injected
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May 28, 2020 16:19
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ZRX, carbs
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May 28, 2020 16:36
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epalm posted:Speaking of lifting bikes, I have a 98 Shadow Spirit and the engine sits below the bottom frame rails, so my jack won't work. Do you need to get the engine out? Otherwise just get something like this https://www.amazon.com/Extreme-Max-5001-5044-Motorcycle-Scissor/dp/B0196PAZ1S
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May 28, 2020 17:41
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High Protein posted:Do you need to get the engine out? Otherwise just get something like this https://www.amazon.com/Extreme-Max-5001-5044-Motorcycle-Scissor/dp/B0196PAZ1S Not fishing the engine out, no. But this is the problem, anything that goes across the bottom of the bike will contact the engine and/or oil pan before the frame rails. But now I'm looking at this https://www.amazon.com/Extreme-Max-5001-5047-Motorcycle-Scissors/dp/B0196PAYP0 and while it will avoid the delicate parts and hook up to the frame... I can only use it to lift the front or rear at a time. Unless I get two of them?? I guess I don't absolutely need to get both ends up at the same time, but lifting the whole bike is preferable to working on the floor. (Maybe I'm just getting old.)
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May 28, 2020 18:10
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epalm posted:Not fishing the engine out, no. But this is the problem, anything that goes across the bottom of the bike will contact the engine and/or oil pan before the frame rails. How about a rear stand? Won't give you that much height but that + a jack like this will get both wheels free of the ground. My jack also came with the brackets in your link but I always just jack the bike up by the engine, but it's a much lighter bike.
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May 28, 2020 18:39
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High Protein posted:How about a rear stand? Won't give you that much height but that + a jack like this will get both wheels free of the ground. Jim mentioned Pitbull stands, but from what I've read they won't actually get the rear up because the shaft drive and exhaust pipe get in the way. I've also been sternly warned "not to lift the bike by the engine ask me how I know"
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May 28, 2020 19:07
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Phy posted:ZRX, carbs 1. Your battery sounds pretty tired 2. You know how you use the choke when the bike's cold, because the carb has no way of knowing or responding to engine temperature, in order to make the mixture richer? When the engine is warm and you've switched it off, there is still fuel mixture hanging around in the intake tract between the carb and head. Trying to start with a closed throttle doesn't work because all that fuel + the new stuff coming from the carb = too rich for a hot engine. So it's normal to give it a little throttle as that adds more air and leans things out a bit. In car terms: the 'gas' pedal is actually the air pedal, when you give it more gas you're actually just letting more air into the engine, the carb/efi then decides how much fuel that amount of air requires. Additionally, when the engine is warm it's far more efficient (as in sucks more air per intake stroke) than when it's cold, combined with the pumping losses you get sucking against closed throttles it can be hard work for the starting system; the choke being on actually makes it much easier for the engine to turn over as it effectively bypasses the blockage caused by the throttle plates, which is probably why your battery has no issues then. Slavvy fucked around with this message at 20:39 on May 28, 2020 |
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May 28, 2020 20:34
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poo poo battery and "Propitiate the carb ghosts" are p much what I was thinking, thank you for explaining why the carb ghosts. (Slavvy, you're seriously worth an entire zrxoa, in no small part because you answer my questions without trying to sell me a second or third starter chain tensioner kit)
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May 28, 2020 22:44
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Supradog posted:I just use a google sheet with tabs for each bike. Date, mileage and what was done. I used to have a spreadsheet just for valve clearances on my bikes. So many tabs.
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May 28, 2020 23:29
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I keep a similar spreadsheet for my dirtbike. I track rides (location and hours), maintenance etc in chronological order. It really helps when you start to wonder how long bearings have been in there or when you changed your oil last. It's something I wish my previous owner had when I bought the bike. And it's on Google so I can access it from anywhere.
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May 28, 2020 23:38
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How big a difference do wheel bearings / steering stem bearings make? Should you only really mess with them when things start to feel fubar?
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May 29, 2020 18:02
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I'm looking at pipes to replace the broken part of my silencers, but can't find any the exact same dimensions (in this country at any rate): it's 25.4mm OD with 1mm wall thickness. Locally I can only find 1.2mm wall thickness, which if I've done the numbers right should reduce the internal cross sectional area by a little less than 2%. How big a deal is this for back pressure?
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May 29, 2020 18:51
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mewse posted:How big a difference do wheel bearings / steering stem bearings make? Should you only really mess with them when things start to feel fubar? Depends what you mean. There is no periodic maintenance of wheel bearings other than "replace when bad", on very old bikes the steering stem can get loose over time and need tightening. There is no difference in replacing a good one for a "high performance" one, but it's definitely a good idea to replace them if they feel slightly bad and your bike is down for service for other reasons. A bad bearing feels like it has grit in it when you roll it, or there's play when you wiggle the axle that goes through it. On bikes that have slightly overengineered ones, they can outlast the life of the bike. Renaissance Robot posted:I'm looking at pipes to replace the broken part of my silencers, but can't find any the exact same dimensions (in this country at any rate): it's 25.4mm OD with 1mm wall thickness. Locally I can only find 1.2mm wall thickness, which if I've done the numbers right should reduce the internal cross sectional area by a little less than 2%. Doesn't matter one bit. Exhaust pipe flow is an extremely overrated spec, even in track use. The exhaust valve port is much smaller than any part of the pipe anyway. Resonance effects is a thing, but that's like tuning a musical instrument more than "bigger ID = more HP". But are you getting raw lengths of steel tube to weld, or actual exhaust parts? Not that it matters, just curious.
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May 29, 2020 19:40
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You are giving that exhaust choice more care than 99.9999% of riders. It's not smart, but a huge section of riders will practically run open headers and maybe even intake with no care to tuning. They are idiots, but still. Like I sad before, the ECU can handle slight variations like that, as long as both your pipes are identical.
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May 29, 2020 19:46
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Ola posted:Doesn't matter one bit. Exhaust pipe flow is an extremely overrated spec, even in track use. The exhaust valve port is much smaller than any part of the pipe anyway. Resonance effects is a thing, but that's like tuning a musical instrument more than "bigger ID = more HP". But are you getting raw lengths of steel tube to weld, or actual exhaust parts? Not that it matters, just curious. Raw lengths of tube, and some custom cut washers to fit the gap between the outer end and the exhaust tips. I'd weld them in if I could, but I don't have the kit or the knowhow, so I'm planning to use epoxy instead on the basis that the exhaust tips shouldn't be getting above ~150'C or so.
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May 29, 2020 19:54
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I gather it’s unlikely, but does anyone know where the KWP2000 port on a modern Ninja 650 might be? I’m interested in trying to sniff the protocol but unless I missed it, even the shop manual I have doesn’t go over where I can find this port. I can’t tell whether it is something that should be standalone or connect to the ECU or what.
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May 29, 2020 19:55
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It's a 4 pin weatherproof connector, should be under the seat right next to the battery. Think this one's on a 300, but they look the same on all kawasakis built this century.
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May 29, 2020 20:03
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mewse posted:How big a difference do wheel bearings / steering stem bearings make? Should you only really mess with them when things start to feel fubar? Wheel bearings can be pretty hosed and not noticably affect the ride. Steering head bearings have an absolutely huge effect. Lift the front off the ground, make sure the bars turn perfectly smoothly side to side without any detents, grab the fork lowers and wiggle them front to back to check for play. I'm also going to disagree with ola here in that the type of bearing does make a difference, a lot of the post-classic racer guys I've dealt with demand ball bearings because the roller type saps feel on tiny bikes with skinny tyres. Otoh roller type are far less sensitive to being preloaded wrong and can take a lot more abuse.
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May 29, 2020 20:13
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Renaissance Robot posted:It's a 4 pin weatherproof connector, should be under the seat right next to the battery. Delivers in record time. Will look for it there after work, thanks!
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May 29, 2020 20:19
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I'm thinking about picking up a new 300 Versys, but nobody within a couple hours has any of the ABS models in stock. Admittedly, I'm in the sticks, but boooo. A few non-ABS models, but I live in the mountains and it rains / snows consistently in the riding seasons that not having ABS sounds like a terrible idea. That said, I've only ever owned old bikes without ABS. Are the magic breaks worth holding out for? Also, I'd like to take it on a few baby trails, but I've heard old folks saying ABS sucks on dirt / gravel. Is it that terrible that you can't --i'm guessing-- slide hard on trails?
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May 29, 2020 22:16
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Yes, you should hold out for ABS if you are going to the trouble of buying new/newish. Get what you deserve. There are plenty of times ABS would have saved me or at least made a scary moment less scary. You can/must disable ABS off road. Lots of ways to do this depending on the bike. Worst case, you pull a fuse for it. Since you are offroading, you'll also learn lot's of low traction skills that negate the "don't get magic brakes learn the hard way bs" people say.
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May 29, 2020 22:22
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Slavvy posted:Wheel bearings can be pretty hosed and not noticably affect the ride. Steering head bearings have an absolutely huge effect. Lift the front off the ground, make sure the bars turn perfectly smoothly side to side without any detents, grab the fork lowers and wiggle them front to back to check for play. For steering stem it looks like oem for my bike is loose ball bearings but the all balls kit is rollers. Interesting that people claim there's a difference in feel.
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May 29, 2020 23:00
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People claim they can hear the difference between music from spotify piped over a $5 ethernet cable and a $500 ethernet cable. People are stupid and will convince themselves of whatever they want, especially if what they want is to be convinced that they can buy their way to better performance.
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May 29, 2020 23:07
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True
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May 29, 2020 23:16
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I always make sure my bearings are Authentic with a Supple and Warm feel. Why compromise on something you use thousands of times per second?
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May 29, 2020 23:38
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Coydog posted:Yes, you should hold out for ABS if you are going to the trouble of buying new/newish. Get what you deserve. There are plenty of times ABS would have saved me or at least made a scary moment less scary. Thank you, that's what I needed to hear.
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May 29, 2020 23:52
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I had my first taste of ABS two weeks ago when someone yoinked out into a downtown crosswalk against their light as I was approaching. Super glad I had it, but the sensation was really weird. I wonder if I would have slid out on my 250.
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May 29, 2020 23:54
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Can you stoppie with ABS, or does it nix that kind of behaviour? Or is it implementation specific?
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May 30, 2020 00:03
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ABS prevents the wheel from locking up. You don't lock the wheel in a stoppie; you just brake hard enough (and shift your weight) to get the rear of the bike off the ground while it continues to roll. So no, it won't stop you from performing a stoppie.
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May 30, 2020 00:05
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Sagebrush posted:ABS prevents the wheel from locking up. You don't lock the wheel in a stoppie; you just brake hard enough (and shift your weight) to get the rear of the bike off the ground while it continues to roll. So no, it won't stop you from performing a stoppie. That's what I was thinking, since the abs pickup is still slowly rotating around the abs ring until you reach the apex. Just wasn't sure if that would be interpreted as impending lockup or not.
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May 30, 2020 00:07
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Some bikes specifically do have anti-stoppie abs, often tied into the myriad rider aid settings that let you back it off for track use or whatever. But basic bikes like the versys 300 don't have an imu or any kind of tcs strategy AFAIK so it would let you stoppie fine, as long as rear wheel rpm </= front wheel rpm. Abs has to look at both wheel speeds and draw conclusions from the difference, if you want to know the physical attitude of the bike to prevent stoppies or even full-blown cornering abs you need a bunch of gyroscopes aka an Inertial Measurement Unit.
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May 30, 2020 02:28
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| # ? Jun 4, 2024 13:17 |
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mewse posted:For steering stem it looks like oem for my bike is loose ball bearings but the all balls kit is rollers. Interesting that people claim there's a difference in feel. I mean I swapped all my bieks steering stem bearings from rollers to needles. There's DEFINITELY a difference in feel when you're coming from a 40-50 year old crusty and failing bearing to a fresh new one. Besides that 
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May 30, 2020 03:45
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