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Some Random rear end in a top hat posted:I'd go with: bodywork, brake assembly, some piece of suspension linkage, something in the driveline post-diff like a drive plate or something (don't know if street cars use those), in that order. Do you have the equipment to get the car in the air enough for you to get under and nut n' bolt basically the entire rear end? Is there anything specific you can do to induce it? A reproducible condition would be very helpful The only conditions I can think of are that it's never happened below 10 mph, but that's pretty obvious; it doesn't make noise while stationary, either.  Now that I think about it, if it appears to be the same volume at any speed, that actually means that it must be louder at higher speeds; it's not like the 16-year-old car is silent at speed. So I shouldn't say it's unrelated to speed. The rate of clanking or how frequently it occurs doesn't seem to be related, though. I do have a jack and some jackstands though, so that's a good idea. I'll spend an afternoon wiggling stuff about.
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Jan 11, 2013 04:27
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Could be the rear, but it's probably bushings around the shock mounts/upper control arms. Hopefully it isn't the torque boxes, but if your car is basically stock you should be fine.
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Jan 11, 2013 05:24
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So said friend went for the test drive in the Mustang and said when he hit a pothole the car made an very loud clunk/crack sound from the rear. That scared him off and he bought the 2012 Focus his wife and I had been pushing for, yay!
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Jan 11, 2013 07:07
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Thank goodness for bad roads 
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Jan 11, 2013 10:18
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Viggen posted:..unless it's the V6 mustang. My friend went from looking at a WRX to MS6 to... a Mustang V6 vert.
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Jan 11, 2013 12:20
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Rhyno posted:So said friend went for the test drive in the Mustang and said when he hit a pothole the car made an very loud clunk/crack sound from the rear. That scared him off and he bought the 2012 Focus his wife and I had been pushing for, yay! He was prepared to disregard advice from his best friend and his wife?
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Jan 11, 2013 18:21
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It's a bit of a stretch, but does anyone know anything about the factory AC units in early Mustangs? I'm looking at a '66 that comes with a broken factory AC unit. The seller claims it "needs a new compressor." I've never really messed with AC before, and I especially have no idea how the separate units like this work. I'm going on the assumption that it's totally hosed and would need to be completely rebuilt. Any ideas what that would cost? I know there are tons of aftermarket drop-in ac systems for these but I'd prefer to use the original.
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Jan 11, 2013 21:20
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lazer_chicken posted:It's a bit of a stretch, but does anyone know anything about the factory AC units in early Mustangs? I'm looking at a '66 that comes with a broken factory AC unit. The seller claims it "needs a new compressor." I've never really messed with AC before, and I especially have no idea how the separate units like this work. I'm going on the assumption that it's totally hosed and would need to be completely rebuilt. Any ideas what that would cost? I know there are tons of aftermarket drop-in ac systems for these but I'd prefer to use the original. A/C units aren't terribly complicated. You should be able to find a new compressor for it without much difficulty. Rock Auto lists an A/C compressor for around $150-200, depending on if you get a new or reman unit. Bearing is sold separately in case that's what's failed, the compressor clutch is also a separate unit. If it still has A/C in it (charged) you'll need to take it to a shop, they'll need to capture the freon before the compressor is removed and replaced. If the system is dry you can technically do the work in your driveway; I'd recommend converting to R134 or something though rather than using freon.
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Jan 11, 2013 22:33
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Cocoa Crispies posted:He was prepared to disregard advice from his best friend and his wife? Yup. His wife wanted him to get a Mustang but she wanted him to get a V8 with a stick. And he thinks that I think I know everything about cars so he often disregards my advice about cars. He bought a Saturn Ion with a bad clutch about 6 years ago against my advice and dumped $1700 into fixing it the first month he had it.
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Jan 11, 2013 23:21
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Your wife wants you to get a V8 Mustang and you say, "No way honey, I'm getting the V6!" 
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Jan 11, 2013 23:57
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vote_no posted:Your wife wants you to get a V8 Mustang and you say, "No way honey, I'm getting the V6!" Yeah, I'm pretty sure his friend's problem is complete retardation. "No, I will NOT buy the objectively better car!"
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Jan 12, 2013 00:04
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PT6A posted:Yeah, I'm pretty sure his friend's problem is complete retardation. I think he was just doing it to go against what I said.
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Jan 12, 2013 00:49
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Rhyno posted:I think he was just doing it to go against what I said. I'm sorry to be the one to break this to you bro but I think your best friend might just be dumb as hell
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Jan 12, 2013 01:21
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Some Random rear end in a top hat posted:I'm sorry to be the one to break this to you bro but I think your best friend might just be dumb as hell You are most certainly not the first person to break that to me.
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Jan 12, 2013 01:35
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I'm kicking around the idea of getting a little blower like the Roush m90 or doing the Dept of Boost kit. I wouldn't mind making 400 rwhp (about a 100 more than current) and don't really feel like making more than that since thats about the limit of reliable operation on the 3v. I figure 400 would get me competitive with the 5.0 and the random vettes and gtos. Would also stomp most imports. I also have 4.10s and I figured any more power and I'd be better off with my original 3.55.
amp281 fucked around with this message at 15:28 on Jan 14, 2013 |
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Jan 14, 2013 15:22
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Don't drive in the rain on bald tires. 
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Jan 17, 2013 07:32
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Holy poo poo, is that yours?
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Jan 17, 2013 11:59
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Yeah. Posted about hydroplaning and flipping it a couple weeks back.
Locobono fucked around with this message at 19:52 on Jan 17, 2013 |
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Jan 17, 2013 19:45
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How are you not dead? Or are you posting from the afterlife?
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Jan 17, 2013 20:18
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amp281 posted:I'm kicking around the idea of getting a little blower like the Roush m90 or doing the Dept of Boost kit. I wouldn't mind making 400 rwhp (about a 100 more than current) and don't really feel like making more than that since thats about the limit of reliable operation on the 3v. I figure 400 would get me competitive with the 5.0 and the random vettes and gtos. Would also stomp most imports. I also have 4.10s and I figured any more power and I'd be better off with my original 3.55. Gotta get dem imports 
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Jan 17, 2013 20:35
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Locobono posted:Don't drive in the rain on bald tires. That will buff right out. And how do you not have a head like this guy?  Is that...is that you?
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Jan 17, 2013 20:55
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Elephanthead posted:How are you not dead? Or are you posting from the afterlife? No loving idea. I jumped out of the car when it stopped rolling and was sitting on the curb when the EMTs showed up and strapped me to a board. I got some staples for a laceration and that's it. Didn't see the car until two weeks later (Christmas break) when I went to the salvage yard to get my poo poo and take those pictures. When I saw it I had the same "holy poo poo" reaction. Good thing I didn't get the 'vert or the glass roof Locobono fucked around with this message at 21:28 on Jan 17, 2013 |
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Jan 17, 2013 21:09
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amp281 posted:I'm kicking around the idea of getting a little blower like the Roush m90 or doing the Dept of Boost kit. I wouldn't mind making 400 rwhp (about a 100 more than current) and don't really feel like making more than that since thats about the limit of reliable operation on the 3v. I figure 400 would get me competitive with the 5.0 and the random vettes and gtos. Would also stomp most imports. I also have 4.10s and I figured any more power and I'd be better off with my original 3.55. I think 4.10s might be a little bit much for a car you want to drive on the street with either of those kits. If you wanted to keep those gears go with a centrifugal supercharger or go the turbo route. Also, that Department of Boost kit is as cool as poo poo. PS: Whatever gears you choose don't be stupid on the street kronix fucked around with this message at 21:17 on Jan 17, 2013 |
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Jan 17, 2013 21:12
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kronix posted:I think 4.10s might be a little bit much for a car you want to drive on the street with either of those kits. If you wanted to keep those gears go with a centrifugal supercharger or go the turbo route. 4.10s are fine with as tall as the gearing in the transmission is. Also, you don't want a turbo with 4.10s; 3.27/3.55 is best.
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Jan 18, 2013 01:56
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Just curious, I don't know anyone running a blown 3v but wouldn't the instant torque from a roots style supercharger make the the 4.10s overkill? Wouldn't you want the 4.10s a turbocharged application to keep the car high in the power band?
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Jan 18, 2013 16:25
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So in less than 1500 miles since the 'fix', my front suspension is grinding again. Time to file a claim with Ford, I think.  A google search of 2012 mustang gt front suspension yields all sorts of fun stuff.Plus also, the screen on the radio looks like it is broken/covered in frost. This is the result of wiping across with a slightly damp rag  
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Jan 18, 2013 19:28
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Got my '00 GT back from the shop today after its fluid change. Found out it has the limited slip differential, so the diff fluid was more expensive than I initially expected. Woo hoo! They say they found some movement on the outer tie rod ends but it's not dangerous, just makes noise, should fix it eventually. Is this a major job on a Mustang? It was a giant pain on my MR2 and I am trying to gauge whether to plan on tackling it myself when it gets warmer out, or just take it in when I get too annoyed by the noise.
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Jan 19, 2013 00:40
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Tide posted:Plus also, the screen on the radio looks like it is broken/covered in frost. This is the result of wiping across with a slightly damp rag Haven't bothered to clean it yet  .
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Jan 19, 2013 03:23
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Same thing with mine. Speaking of the sound system, is there any way to plug an iPod in via USB without it taking over the device? I've given up on SYNC and just want to play via the aux line, but if I try to charge it via USB at the same time I can't use the iPod. Anyone figure out a way to make sync not infuriating?
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Jan 19, 2013 19:21
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Necc0 posted:Same thing with mine. What part of SYNC do you find infuriating? With the exception of a few non-English titled songs that it can't really understand, I've been extremely satisfied with how it works.
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Jan 19, 2013 20:19
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About one out of three times I start my car it will fail to recognize the iPod, even though I haven't removed it or even opened the armrest. Despite everything I've done the only way to get it to recognize is to pull over, turn off the car and turn it on again. This is unacceptable. Of course you can't tell when this is happening because sometimes it just takes five minutes to start playing where you left off when you turned the car off last time. You can't touch anything during this period because SYNC will freak out and crash. Other times half way through a song it will stop, tell me 'index full, some songs may not be available' then continue to play. Sometimes the 'index full' is right when I start the car. It will screw with the song order of albums even though they're correct on the iPod/tagged correctly. The interface for selecting albums/artists/whatever is terrible and I'd rather just use the iPod. None of these issues are consistent, and I can't find a reliable way to reproduce them. I would rather just use the aux line and go around SYNC entirely. It functions just barely above 'broken' and if I were a manager on that project heads would be rolling. My googling has found tons of others with the same issues and no resolutions. Necc0 fucked around with this message at 22:53 on Jan 19, 2013 |
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Jan 19, 2013 22:48
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Use a cigarette lighter adapter to charge instead? If you have aux in, you should be able to pick up a couple-foot-long 3.5mm male to male headphone adapter quite cheap. Otherwise, they have those pretty awful FM transmitter devices that love to have tons of interference.
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Jan 19, 2013 22:51
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Yeah I have the AUX line, I've already used it and it works fine. The problem is charging via USB at the same time, as SYNC will take over the device and prevent me from using the AUX line. I'd like to charge with USB because it's what I already have, I'd rather not go out and buy the cigarette adapter if I don't have to.
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Jan 19, 2013 22:54
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Necc0 posted:About one out of three times I start my car it will fail to recognize the iPod, even though I haven't removed it or even opened the armrest. Despite everything I've done the only way to get it to recognize is to pull over, turn off the car and turn it on again. This is unacceptable. Of course you can't tell when this is happening because sometimes it just takes five minutes to start playing where you left off when you turned the car off last time. You can't touch anything during this period because SYNC will freak out and crash. Other times half way through a song it will stop, tell me 'index full, some songs may not be available' then continue to play. Sometimes the 'index full' is right when I start the car. It will screw with the song order of albums even though they're correct on the iPod/tagged correctly. The interface for selecting albums/artists/whatever is terrible and I'd rather just use the iPod. Pop the SYNC fuse out and back in. I have to do this every couple months or so when it starts to sketch out.
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Jan 19, 2013 22:56
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I figured the factory reset option would have been sufficient. Alright I'll try that, thanks.
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Jan 19, 2013 23:22
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Necc0 posted:About one out of three times I start my car it will fail to recognize the iPod, even though I haven't removed it or even opened the armrest. Despite everything I've done the only way to get it to recognize is to pull over, turn off the car and turn it on again. This is unacceptable. On mine, when it doesn't want to talk to my iPod Classic, I've had luck turning the stereo off for a couple minutes and back on again.
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Jan 20, 2013 02:12
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What's the story with aftermarket grease-able tie rod ends? Worthwhile? The non-serviceable factory ends on mine are about done for and my thinking is this: instead of having to replace the new ones in another 80,000 miles (as if I'll have the car that long but who knows), why not order some upgrades from Summit Racing?
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Jan 24, 2013 22:01
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Are you actually going to grease them when you change your oil? If not they won't help any.
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Jan 25, 2013 04:52
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Wouldn't greasing them be the point of putting in greasable parts?
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Jan 25, 2013 18:51
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Ive been dealing with a few dealerships, got my price for a 2013 v6 automatic with the tech pack to $21,600. My question is though does the base model like the one I am getting come with an LSD differential without the performance pack?
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Jan 27, 2013 17:47
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