Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Terminus Est
Sep 30, 2005


Motorcycle Miliitia


Anyone have experience with Dunlop Roadsmart 2 tires? They are cheap as hell. US$150ish for a set.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

MomJeans420
Mar 19, 2007



Slavvy posted:

Basically all the modern big name sporty tyres are equally good and it is entirely a matter of personal preference and feel wrt how round/triangular they are, how stiff the carcass is and how those things interrelate with how you ride. If you like dunlops just get those.

Good point, any modern tire is probably way beyond my ability, especially on the street. I was thinking it may be interesting to try a different brand and see how they feel, but it's not an apples to apples comparison when they're on different bikes.

*edit*
I'm going to try out Bridgestone Battlax S22s unless someone has a reason that's a poor choice

MomJeans420 fucked around with this message at 05:26 on Jul 16, 2020

Phy
Jun 27, 2008



Fun Shoe
In that vein, are Pilot Road 5s (i guess they're just called Roads now or some poo poo) still the best sport-touring tires for the money like the 2s and 3s were? Or did they peak at 3 and I should get something else when I reshoe it next year?

kloa
Feb 14, 2007


I’ve only got 3k miles on my Road 5s but I’m enjoying them a lot.

Like someone else said, tire technology moves a lot quicker than DoT/road technology and any modern tire seems fine for typical commuting and canyon carving stuff. Maybe once you get to track usage it changes, but I’ve yet to do a track day yet so :shrug:

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Phy posted:

In that vein, are Pilot Road 5s (i guess they're just called Roads now or some poo poo) still the best sport-touring tires for the money like the 2s and 3s were? Or did they peak at 3 and I should get something else when I reshoe it next year?

They were never the best ST tyres, they're just the best rain tyre and incredibly long lasting. If your care about how the bike actually rides, aka the S part, it's angel GT's.

Renaissance Robot
Oct 10, 2010

Bite my furry metal ass
How big of a deal is this?



Bearing housing on the right side rear shock seems to be eating into its lower bracket. Left for comparison:

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
measure the od/id of the bushing and go find a new one, press it in. Not hard or expensive, even if you pay someone to press the bushing in for you.

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




Yeah bushings are easy peasy and cheap. Even if the busing ID is wallowed all out you measure the OD of the bolt and the OD of the bushing and there you go

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

My biggest concern there would be the bolt having a big rusty step in the shank, but you'll be able to get one at the dealer if worst comes to worst.

Or just let the natural escalation happen and get some mint hagons or something.

right arm
Oct 30, 2011

Jim Silly-Balls posted:

Yeah bushings are easy peasy and cheap. Even if the busing ID is wallowed all out you measure the OD of the bolt and the OD of the bushing and there you go

the term is wallered

Renaissance Robot
Oct 10, 2010

Bite my furry metal ass

Slavvy posted:

Or just let the natural escalation happen and get some mint hagons or something.

Some reproduction shrouded Girlings maybe. People already keep confusing this for a vintage Triumph (keep getting asked how old it is), may as well lean into it :v:

e/ Oh hey turns out Hagon actually do these

Renaissance Robot fucked around with this message at 11:03 on Jul 18, 2020

Fender
Oct 9, 2000
Mechanical Bunny Rabbits!
Dinosaur Gum
What's the goon wisdom on tire plugs? I pulled a nail out of my rear tire this weekend and plugged it up with a Dynaplug. Filled it back up and went around town for about an hour or so at moderate speed. Checked it when I got home and no air was lost. How long can I let this thing stay in there?

Razzled
Feb 3, 2011

MY HARLEY IS COOL

Fender posted:

What's the goon wisdom on tire plugs? I pulled a nail out of my rear tire this weekend and plugged it up with a Dynaplug. Filled it back up and went around town for about an hour or so at moderate speed. Checked it when I got home and no air was lost. How long can I let this thing stay in there?

im on mile 1700 of my plugged 190/55/17 pilot power rs rear tire on the tuono. i ran over a screw that went straight in and slow deflated it. has been fine since i plugged it, i've been riding it as normal (including wheelies)

right arm
Oct 30, 2011

Fender posted:

What's the goon wisdom on tire plugs? I pulled a nail out of my rear tire this weekend and plugged it up with a Dynaplug. Filled it back up and went around town for about an hour or so at moderate speed. Checked it when I got home and no air was lost. How long can I let this thing stay in there?

as long as the tread lasts. you'll be fine

Ola
Jul 19, 2004

Fender posted:

What's the goon wisdom on tire plugs? I pulled a nail out of my rear tire this weekend and plugged it up with a Dynaplug. Filled it back up and went around town for about an hour or so at moderate speed. Checked it when I got home and no air was lost. How long can I let this thing stay in there?

Agree with the above, it will last the life of the tire.

goddamnedtwisto
Dec 31, 2004

If you ask me about the mole people in the London Underground, I WILL be forced to kill you
Fun Shoe

Ola posted:

Agree with the above, it will last the life of the tire.

As long as it's in the middle third it's fine - the softer the tyre/carcass and the closer to the edge of the tread the more likely it is to work itself loose. If you have the tools and time some people say you should pop the tyre off the bead, cut down the excess plug material and slap some more cement over it to make absolutely sure it stays in place.

Horse Clocks
Dec 14, 2004


My DRZs indicator switch housing has had its anti-twist pins ground off, and now whenever I have to beep the horn the entire assembly twists.

Is there something I can do to stop it twisting? Or a reliable brand to replace it with?

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




Wrap some electrical tape around the bar so the housing has something to bite on. Standard operating procedure for aftermarket bars on the drz anyway

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

Get a teeny little M2 x 6mm socket-head screw, drill a fine hole in the housing in the center of where the plastic pin broke off, and put the screw in. The socket head fits in the hole where the pin used to be. Works great.

(Adjust screw size as required for your bars)

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




Oh look at mr “that’s probably the better answer” over here

thats probably the better answer

Strife
Apr 20, 2001

What the hell are YOU?

Jim Silly-Balls posted:

Oh look at mr “that’s probably the better answer” over here

I know it's probably bad form to quote yourself in the thread title but cmon that should really be it.

Horse Clocks
Dec 14, 2004


Sagebrush posted:

Get a teeny little M2 x 6mm socket-head screw, drill a fine hole in the housing in the center of where the plastic pin broke off, and put the screw in. The socket head fits in the hole where the pin used to be. Works great.

(Adjust screw size as required for your bars)

This sounds like the right way.

I’m going with the silly balls’s solution because inevitably I’m going to gently caress up drilling that hole and do it anyway.

MomJeans420
Mar 19, 2007



Any advice on bleeding the front brake system when you're starting with all new lines? I had heard it's much easier to do the reverse bleeding method, but it looks like the motion pro tool isn't sold anymore, I'm guessing because Phoenix patented their reverse bleeder. I'd rather not buy the tool from Phoenix, but if reverse bleeding is that much better I'll break down and do it. I do have speed bleeders on the way which I'm pretty sure will fit the bike, so I was going to do the traditional method (well the traditional speed bleeder method) unless there's a better option.

right arm
Oct 30, 2011

there are plenty of syringe kits on amazon. just fill it with your fluid and reverse bleed it. ez pz

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

I keep seeing this reverse bleeding carry on here and I honestly have no idea why you would ever need to do that, I've bled brakes from scratch a million times and never needed any kind of mechanical assistance, let alone syringes or whatever. Never bled anything in reverse, never had to take things off the bike and turn them around etc (ok once but it's not my fault Suzuki put the bleed screw facing the bar).

Pump the master up even if there's no pressure, crack open the master banjo and some stuff will spurt out. Keep doing this until you get an even wave of fluid coming out past the banjo. At that point the only air is in the calipers/lines and it's a straightforward normal bleed. This has worked on every kind of bike you could conceive of, abs linked brakes dumb Italian bullshit makes no difference.

MomJeans420
Mar 19, 2007



I should have remembered a syringe would work just as well, I think I saw that in a video I watched recently and then promptly forgot about. I already have a syringe I used to remove brake fluid on my car ages ago, so if I want to go that route I don't even need to order off of amazon. However, that won't work with the speed bleeders so I'd have to reverse bleed, install the speed bleeders, then do a bit of bleeding in case installing the speed bleeders introduced any air.

So I guess I'll try the traditional route first. It seemed like everyone online really thought the reverse method was best if you were starting with empty lines, but if it doesn't make a difference going the normal route saves me installing the speed bleeders when there's already brake fluid in the caliper.

TheNothingNew
Nov 10, 2008

MomJeans420 posted:


So I guess I'll try the traditional route first. It seemed like everyone online really thought the reverse method was best if you were starting with empty lines, but if it doesn't make a difference going the normal route saves me installing the speed bleeders when there's already brake fluid in the caliper.

I don't know anything about reverse bleeding, but I did a normal bleed from 100% dry, lines & calipers, two weekends ago.
Have patience that it's working, because it'll feel like you're having no effect at all until it starts spurting, and buy an extra bottle of brake fluid just in case.

kloa
Feb 14, 2007


Bleed chat:


https://youtu.be/x1ddFwEkn3E

goddamnedtwisto
Dec 31, 2004

If you ask me about the mole people in the London Underground, I WILL be forced to kill you
Fun Shoe

TheNothingNew posted:

Have patience that it's working, because it'll feel like you're having no effect at all until it starts spurting,

Are you a writer for Cosmopolitan then?

Renaissance Robot
Oct 10, 2010

Bite my furry metal ass
Try putting a doughnut on the brake lever and eating it off

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Renaissance Robot posted:

Try putting a doughnut on the brake lever and eating it off

:lol: :five:

some kinda jackal
Feb 25, 2003

 
 

I watched that yesterday and lol’d at the reusing joke. Hopefully no one actually puts a pump full of DOT brake fluid back into the soap bottle :lol:

MomJeans420
Mar 19, 2007




I'll be damned.

Took apart the gixxer calipers to redo all the seals and clean everything up (and hopefully fix the leak), and came across this. I didn't have great lighting at first and was like "wait that's supposed to be a passage for brake fluid, is that a broken bolt in there?!" but nope it's just some gunk. I'm not an expert but I don't imagine that's great for brake function. It was easily removed at least.



RadioPassive
Feb 26, 2012

I would give the entire system a good disassemble-and-inspect after finding that.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

MomJeans420 posted:

I'll be damned.

Took apart the gixxer calipers to redo all the seals and clean everything up (and hopefully fix the leak), and came across this. I didn't have great lighting at first and was like "wait that's supposed to be a passage for brake fluid, is that a broken bolt in there?!" but nope it's just some gunk. I'm not an expert but I don't imagine that's great for brake function. It was easily removed at least.





Congratulations you get to rebuild a master cylinder!

Elviscat
Jan 1, 2008

Well don't you know I'm caught in a trap?

What's the story with that Gixxer? Was it stored underwater or something?

MomJeans420
Mar 19, 2007



For starters, it looks like this (hopefully the spike bolts for the windscreen are visible):



I'm kind of shocked it didn't come with a Monster sticker on it. I inherited it from a friend who died, I'm not sure the last time he rode it but it wasn't too long ago, probably a few months at most. He bought it in early 2019 and it already looked like that, but I have no idea what the PO did in terms of maintenance, storage, etc. I'm going to assume not much. It's had a hard life, but a project bike sounded like fun so it's getting fixed up anyway. The fork seals are leaking oil, the front brakes leaked the remaining fluid onto my driveway, and it needs two new tires and a chain.

RadioPassive posted:

I would give the entire system a good disassemble-and-inspect after finding that.

Slavvy posted:

Congratulations you get to rebuild a master cylinder!

I had been thinking of rebuilding the master cylinder anyway, sounds like I should go ahead and buy the parts. I did notice that was only an issue on that side of the caliper, the hole on the other side had what looked like clean brake fluid in it (I think they had been topping it off with fresh fluid because of the slow leak). I already have stainless lines to put on, and right now I'm taking the calipers all the way apart to clean them as well as possible. I didn't buy replacement pistons yet but I'll see how they look when I take them out. I still need to figure out if I should spray some brake clean into that hole or just try to flush it with a lot of brake fluid.

If the other caliper looks good is it still worth rebuilding the master cylinder? I don't want to do it for no reason, but on the other hand I had already been thinking about it because front brakes are pretty important.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

That stuff is the result of water in the system. How did the water get in there? It wasn't up from the bottom. If that kind of sludge is all the way down there, the master will look absolutely terrible and might even have some scale buildup.

What sometimes happens is the sludge blocks the tiny return hole in the MC and the brakes stick on unexpectedly. I have the feeling it'll be one of those situations where bleeding fresh fluid through pushes the already-weakened seals to breaking point, if the reservoir cap seal is all swelled it's a dead giveaway that the moment you take the MC apart the seals will go sproing and you'll never get them back in.

Slavvy fucked around with this message at 22:14 on Jul 23, 2020

MomJeans420
Mar 19, 2007



Went ahead and purchased the master cylinder rebuild kit before taking apart the master cylinder. I've never had to mess with one before so I'll post pics here as I take it apart.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




Strife posted:

I know it's probably bad form to quote yourself in the thread title but cmon that should really be it.

It’s super terrible form but guess who that’s never stopped before?

:boom:

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply