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I recently used the cover for the top of the first time....I made sure to use all the clips buttons, but when at speed (~40mph) it balooned up quite a bit in the center. Normal?
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Mar 23, 2010 22:16
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| # ? Jun 4, 2024 09:36 |
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Tactical Bonnet posted:o hay. Hey, give me my car back! I love springtime because, among other reasons, it means I have 6+ months of top-down motoring ahead of me. Every winter I get that little voice in the back of my head telling me "hey maybe you should get a more 'comfortable' car for poo poo like this", but then spring comes along and I fall in love with my car all over again. Blaise posted:I recently used the cover for the top of the first time....I made sure to use all the clips buttons, but when at speed (~40mph) it balooned up quite a bit in the center. Normal? Yeah, mine does the same thing. It can be ameliorated a bit by using the inside straps and securing them around the top frame, but it's just the nature of the design.
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Mar 23, 2010 22:27
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Guinness posted:Hey, give me my car back! Pfffff. You wish your car was as fresh and clean as mine! I just went for a 45 minute drive just because it's so lovely outside.
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Mar 23, 2010 23:09
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Hog Obituary posted:In that price range, I think Tokico Illuminas and FM springs are probably a decent bet. destructo fucked around with this message at 03:02 on Mar 24, 2010 |
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Mar 24, 2010 02:58
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I just got H&R race springs and Bilstein Sports for my 99 and I love the setup. Very tolerable on the street and was awesome at the track a few weeks ago. $600 for the full set from shox.com I also get Racing beat front and rear sway bars at the same time which are great and about $250 for the set. Here's how it looks: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2651683&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=110#post372866159
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Mar 24, 2010 04:19
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For ~800 dollars you can pick up one of the full FM kits (unless you like putting together setups from parts and aren't lazy like I am) Also, my H4s arrived today... Going to put them on the car in just a bit after I finish up some work stuff.
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Mar 24, 2010 22:57
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Taking advantage of our new table breaking rules!  Yes, that is a corolla S badge. PO is a toyota tech   All safe tucked away for the night. Top is in terrible condition, hopefully the duct tape/heat gun antics will hold it over for a little while before I get to install a new top.
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Mar 25, 2010 13:43
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Two queries (1999 NB): 1. Anybody got a cheap source for touch up paint? Specifically Emerald Mica; the dealership wants $9 a tiny bottle. 2. Recently, I've heard a *CLUNK* when first shifting into reverse in the morning. Doesn't happen the rest of the day, even if the car sits for a while. It appears that if I sloooooooowly ease off the clutch this does not occur. Anybody have similar issues happen?
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Mar 25, 2010 14:30
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Reposting from m-net since they're all a bunch of faggots and won't answer me because they are too busy talking about "topless motoring" and gaudy new pieces of trim to paste on their interiors: Recently my throttle pedal has been sticking slightly. I can push down on it slightly and it will stick at the end of the free play, and if I push down a little harder it will give, but my RPMs will jump from idle to ~2000. This makes getting going a little annoying, and I've isolated the problem to the bracket that connects the cable to the throttle body/manifold. I can rotate it just fine at the body itself(by grabbing it or pulling the cable), but it just sticks ever so slightly at the beginning before starting to move. I tried shooting a little lithium grease at it, but it didn't really help. Is this something I can just take apart and try lubing up the individual components and putting it back together?
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Mar 25, 2010 14:50
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Anybody know where to get replacement hubcaps for daisy wheels? One of mine broke/fell off and the others are discolored.
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Mar 25, 2010 16:22
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Shlomo Palestein posted:2. Recently, I've heard a *CLUNK* when first shifting into reverse in the morning. Doesn't happen the rest of the day, even if the car sits for a while. It appears that if I sloooooooowly ease off the clutch this does not occur. Anybody have similar issues happen? Although unlikely this early, start checking your driveshaft u joints. Was it a clack? Or a clunk? There is some slack down there. I know I can make my NA drivetrain make a racket if I jutter it just right. And as far as I can tell, it's fine.
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Mar 25, 2010 16:45
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The Third Man posted:Reposting from m-net since they're all a bunch of faggots and won't answer me because they are too busy talking about "topless motoring" and gaudy new pieces of trim to paste on their interiors: You should try cr... oh wait, they're all a bunch of faggots who won't answer you because they are too busy talking about "rims" and gaudy new pieces of trim to paste on their exteriors.
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Mar 25, 2010 17:26
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I've been looking into forced induction for my 99 (CA 2-cats) and the only thing I've found that's CARB legal for super or turbo chargers are the Moss MP62 hot side supercharger and the FFS MP62 cold side 190 whp supercharger. Moss: http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda-Performance-Part/61-0018.html FFS: http://www.fastforwardsuperchargers.com/ Are these my only options for CARB legality? If so I'm definitely going with the FFS system, and I'd like to know what the consensus is on it's reliability, quality, and value? I'd install a wideband o2, but other than that I'd like to just bolt it on and go.
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Mar 25, 2010 18:39
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The Third Man posted:You might try spraying some carb cleaner around the butterflies, sometimes carbon builds up and can cause them to stick.
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Mar 25, 2010 19:51
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aventari posted:I've been looking into forced induction for my 99 (CA 2-cats) and the only thing I've found that's CARB legal for super or turbo chargers are the Moss MP62 hot side supercharger and the FFS MP62 cold side 190 whp supercharger. http://949racing.com/rotrexmiatasupercharger.aspx edit: FFS still isn't a bad option though. The Rotrex can easily be uncorked to run as much boost as you'd want to on a stock motor, but there's no intercooler kit available yet (easy enough to fab one up, $160 on ebay gets you all the pipe and an IC). destructo fucked around with this message at 20:14 on Mar 25, 2010 |
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Mar 25, 2010 20:06
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That would be nice, but CARB pending doesn't really mean a thing. It could be pending for 5+ years. If it becomes an option by the time I'm ready to buy in the next few months I'll look at it, but otherwise that's a non-starter for me 
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Mar 25, 2010 23:18
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The Rotrex seems like a really cool little kit, but the price seems incredibly high for the power you ultimately gain from it. For the same ~$3.5k you could have one hell of a turbo setup that would kick the Rotrex's rear end all over the place - without having to do any additional fab work. Aside from the ease of installation/removal, am I missing something that justifies its ridiculous price tag?
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Mar 26, 2010 00:05
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aventari posted:I've been looking into forced induction for my 99 (CA 2-cats) and the only thing I've found that's CARB legal for super or turbo chargers are the Moss MP62 hot side supercharger and the FFS MP62 cold side 190 whp supercharger. BEGi posted:This system, when installed with the BEGi fuel system and Bipes ACU, has a CARB EO for 1990 to 1999 Miatas. I was running this exact system on my '95 (OBD1)
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Mar 26, 2010 00:10
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Hog Obituary posted:http://www.bellengineering.net/product_info.php?cPath=140_141&products_id=245 According to m.net they don't have the manifolds that fit the 2-cat Cali cars any more so piecing together a CARB kit for my 99 wouldn't work I'll actually send them an email though
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Mar 26, 2010 00:18
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Guinness posted:The Rotrex seems like a really cool little kit, but the price seems incredibly high for the power you ultimately gain from it. For the same ~$3.5k you could have one hell of a turbo setup that would kick the Rotrex's rear end all over the place - without having to do any additional fab work. Assuming you can fab up your own intercooler stuff, but like I said, $160 on ebay and you'll get everything you need.
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Mar 26, 2010 06:13
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Guinness posted:The Rotrex seems like a really cool little kit, but the price seems incredibly high for the power you ultimately gain from it. For the same ~$3.5k you could have one hell of a turbo setup that would kick the Rotrex's rear end all over the place - without having to do any additional fab work. destructo covered most of the bases, but you're essentially paying for ease of installation and use. You can ask Savington all day long how much crap you have to do with a turbo (especially when it comes to tuning), and while turbos are more exciting, the Rotrex is seriously as plug-and-play as it comes.
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Mar 26, 2010 10:06
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I just wish it didn't cost as much as my car did or I would be all over that poo poo
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Mar 26, 2010 13:20
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Hog Obituary posted:I was running this exact system on my '95 (OBD1) Modified to be OBD1? I thought '95s were OBD2.
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Mar 26, 2010 18:05
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I think '96+ is OBD2 (all cars). Anybody ever do balljoints on their miata? the boots are torn on mine and they offer replacements on ebay for 32...
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Mar 26, 2010 18:39
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destructo posted:Phone posted:That makes sense. I have to admit that a 2-3 hour install with hand tools, no permanent modification, and no tuning headaches is MIGHTY tempting for a what, about 50% power gain? We'll see how the next year or so progresses, but I'll definitely keep the Rotrex kit on my radar. If finances permit and I get the urge to upgrade my NA, it's going to come down to some sort of FI kit or a newer, faster stock car (looking at you, S2000). Decisions... Edit: Wait, poo poo! Reading closer, it doesn't look like they offer a kit compatible with pre-1999 cars? Are they just out of stock, or is that true? Guinness fucked around with this message at 19:26 on Mar 26, 2010 |
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Mar 26, 2010 19:22
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emilio is still developing it. Apparently it's really easy to turn up the boost on the thing, and all you really need is an oil cooler and intercooler to complete the package.
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Mar 26, 2010 19:33
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If one wanted to pursue these forced induction options and has a high mileage engine, would it be a better bet to swap in a lower-mileage junkyard engine or tackle rebuilding an engine myself? I have good compression and the engine isn't showing any symptoms, but something inside me tells me that doing anything to an engine with 150k is a bad idea, and if its worth doing it is worth doing right with a fresh engine.
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Mar 26, 2010 19:38
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Weinertron posted:If one wanted to pursue these forced induction options and has a high mileage engine, would it be a better bet to swap in a lower-mileage junkyard engine or tackle rebuilding an engine myself? Actually just go read the FAQ in the DIY section at miataturbo.net. The little bits add up pretty quick, but at least you won't have to worry about your rear end.
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Mar 26, 2010 21:04
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Wasn't Savington making big power though?
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Mar 26, 2010 21:33
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Ziploc posted:Wasn't Savington making big power though? He was cruising on the freeway doing 75 or 80 when he punched a hole in #4. He blew up a bunch of transmissions and differentials before that, though. 
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Mar 26, 2010 22:36
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Realized today that the threaded hole in the brake rotor is to pop it off when it's stuck. Spent 10 minutes banging with a rubber mallet, 15 seconds with the bolt that holds down the jack in the trunk and it was off 
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Mar 27, 2010 01:14
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destructo posted:Realized today that the threaded hole in the brake rotor is to pop it off when it's stuck. Spent 10 minutes banging with a rubber mallet, 15 seconds with the bolt that holds down the jack in the trunk and it was off Ha I did this on my Sentra years ago. It was an hour of hitting it with the deadblow.
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Mar 27, 2010 01:28
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Weinertron posted:If one wanted to pursue these forced induction options and has a high mileage engine, would it be a better bet to swap in a lower-mileage junkyard engine or tackle rebuilding an engine myself? You should just boost what you have. Maybe throw a new set of rod bearings in if you're worried about that. The worst that happens is something breaks and then you just throw a jy motor in, and/or rebuild what you have. No big deal. A proper full rebuild is fairly pricey for machine work and everything though so keep that in mind.
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Mar 27, 2010 02:31
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Ebay axle-back install http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/99-0...sQ5fAccessories I installed this a few months ago, when I actually got it shipped for $97. There were a few issues, but for the price I'm happy. got it pretty quick from the seller  Oh whats this? The hanger must've gotten banged in shipping and the weld to the thin metal of the muffler case broke.  luckily I could bust out my trust MIG welder and weld it back up. The fitment was not great. the inlet lined up and the gasket supplied fit, but the hangers were not hanging straight and the tip was pushed up into the bumper cover. I pulled down quite hard on the tip and finally the whole thing bent enough to line up the tip properly in the exhaust cut out. I did have to pull so hard I was afraid I'd break the welds and bust the outlet pipe off of the muffler. But in the end it worked.  here's the only pic i have from the back that shows eventual fitment  I was disappointed with the sound, it's barely louder than stock. The tone itself is fine it's just way too quiet for my taste. I don't know if the muffler is straight through, but I assume it is. Of course there is no difference in power. That's not why I bought it. Maybe it will get a bit louder when I install the Raceland header tomorrow. Hopefully it gets even louder with the supercharger  aventari fucked around with this message at 03:02 on Mar 27, 2010 |
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Mar 27, 2010 03:00
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aventari posted:Ebay axle-back install Good write up! I am thinking about picking up one of these to replace the rusted out stock muffler. Only problem is I wouldn't be able to mount it myself. The stock exhaust looks welded together or is one piece to the cat. I'd have to get it all cut out and welded up. Don't know what a shop would charge for that service.
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Mar 27, 2010 04:29
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Well if your exhaust is truly stock the muffler should bolt to the midpipe with a 2 bolt flange. Here's how it looks. If yours is welded then someone did that later. 
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Mar 27, 2010 09:42
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Must be aftermarket then because there is no flange there to connect it. It's all a straight pipe to the cat.
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Mar 27, 2010 14:48
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I think the 90-93 exhaust are one piece for the catback and the 94+ are two piece. Probably because the suspension braces are in the way in the 94+ and it's easier with it being two pieces...?
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Mar 27, 2010 17:09
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FYI, my 1997 was a catback.
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Mar 27, 2010 17:13
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While on the subject, can anyone recommend an exhaust setup that will increase volume wihtout the fart sounds?
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Mar 27, 2010 19:23
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