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I'll check that out tomorrow for sure, thanks. Is there a recommended go to site for miscellaneous parts?
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Mar 3, 2013 08:26
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TylerC 2.0 posted:I'll check that out tomorrow for sure, thanks. I've used Rock Auto for regular replacement parts before. I'm not sure if anyone is any cheaper, but I've never had a problem with them. I've heard the Dorman replacements are not as good of quality as the OEM version of the intake manifold, but they go for about $150 instead of the OEM's $250. Performance parts are a different matter.
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Mar 3, 2013 08:43
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TylerC 2.0 posted:Thanks, I pulled the trigger! Face hurts from smiling and body hurts from cold as I refused to put the top up all day! I'm pretty sure I know both where that car was parked in the sale picture, and where you have it parked in the after photo. For my own part, my mustang parks about 150 feet away from the river levee.
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Mar 3, 2013 14:49
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Such a small city, we've probably bedded the same women  Say hello sometime why dontcha
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Mar 3, 2013 20:00
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I fell in love with my 2014 V6 during the test drive and picked it up a couple weeks ago: http://imgur.com/a/80F4m
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Mar 3, 2013 20:20
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Rukawa posted:I fell in love with my 2014 V6 during the test drive and picked it up a couple weeks ago: http://imgur.com/a/80F4m I see you got a silver star. You would've gotten a gold star if you'd opted for the eight cylinder.
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Mar 4, 2013 02:31
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A.o.D. posted:I see you got a silver star. You would've gotten a gold star if you'd opted for the eight cylinder. People do this poo poo all the time. Maybe he wants better gas mileage or less expensive insurance. V6s are drat fine cars in this generation.
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Mar 4, 2013 02:39
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CDW posted:People do this poo poo all the time. Maybe he wants better gas mileage or less expensive insurance. V6s are drat fine cars in this generation. Lighten up, Francis.
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Mar 4, 2013 02:42
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A.o.D. posted:I see you got a silver star. You would've gotten a gold star if you'd opted for the eight cylinder. That particular dealship does that. I interned in a company in WA for the past two summers and I saw way too many mustangs ruined by that lovely little silver star.
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Mar 4, 2013 02:45
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"Ruined" is a serious stretch. It's still a very purdy car and I wish I had one, "only a V6" or not 
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Mar 4, 2013 02:58
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I drive a 160hp Focus, I'd love a new V6 mustang. I miss torque.
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Mar 4, 2013 04:15
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Just picked up an 05, I dig it so far.
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Mar 4, 2013 04:40
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shodanjr_gr posted:That particular dealship does that. I interned in a company in WA for the past two summers and I saw way too many mustangs ruined by that lovely little silver star. I like my little star, lol. I did indeed opt for the V6 for the gas mileage, 305/280 is more than enough for a daily driver for me 
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Mar 4, 2013 05:00
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So the Borlas arrived Friday. Pulled the old catback off Friday night and finished up the install on Saturday morning. Quite pleased with it, high quality stuff. Loving the sound, no leaks. Not appreciably louder inside, but has a nice deep rumble to it. Next up: Window tint. Stupid Alabama laws only allow 32%, but not risking anything darker. Tide fucked around with this message at 17:09 on Mar 4, 2013 |
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Mar 4, 2013 16:56
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Mustang season is almost here where I live and I will be getting my car out of storage soon. As usual I can afford to spend about a grand to get more suspension parts for my car. My goal is to have a complete Maximum Motorsports maximum grip suspension kit. This year I am looking to add the torque arm and steering shaft. I was going to do it last year, but I opted to upgrade my sound system instead. Now I ran into a couple of problems, MM is telling me that if I run a torque arm I am going to suffer from under steer, and I need to get better springs. however I don't want to buy the springs because next year I plan on running coil overs to all four corners and doing the sway bar. Now for normal weekend warrior street driving is under steer something I should really be concerned about? I already have the panhard bar, f/l subframes, bilsteins, H&R springs, lower control arms. Finally are there any mustang sites that sell both the steering shaft and torque arm? It seems all the major Mustang parts dealers that have free shipping either sell one or the other but not both?
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Mar 4, 2013 17:55
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 Anyone noticed the rear bumper fit progressively getting worse on their 2012s? This is how mine looks after 10 months of ownership.
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Mar 4, 2013 19:56
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Tide posted:So the Borlas arrived Friday. Pulled the old catback off Friday night and finished up the install on Saturday morning. Quite pleased with it, high quality stuff. Loving the sound, no leaks. Not appreciably louder inside, but has a nice deep rumble to it. They will pull you over if they are bored. According to the tester gizmo the trooper had, my tint is 15%. It was on the car when I bought it, I just paid the ticket. It was cheaper than getting them re-tinted.
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Mar 4, 2013 20:15
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Can anyone recommend a good street/mild performance pad for an '03 V6? I run PBR ULT Ceramics on my e34 and I love them but I can only seem to find them for GTs and up and not the base v6. This is just for dad so it won't get anywhere near a track, but he's always put lovely autozone pads and rotors on it and I'd like to get him something nice for once that isn't going to be loud or twitchy.
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Mar 4, 2013 21:23
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hawk pads?
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Mar 4, 2013 21:26
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shodanjr_gr posted:
My '12 is coming up on a year old and haven't had any issues. Maybe somebody bumped into you (or you backed into something)?
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Mar 4, 2013 21:56
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kalvick posted:hawk pads?
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Mar 4, 2013 22:00
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Tide posted:My '12 is coming up on a year old and haven't had any issues. Maybe somebody bumped into you (or you backed into something)? No, that's never happened. The bumper's pristine otherwise. Also, it's been a progressive thing...it didn't just happen today but I've been noticing it growing...I'm just in a particularly bitchy state today and decided to post about it.
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Mar 4, 2013 22:00
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Lowclock posted:Which ones? I see so many contradictory reviews, saying the same pads are noisy and quiet, good and bad in cold, dusty and not. heh, honestly I dont know. I know a lot of my friends run them. I have Cobra 13" brakes and I just use the Ford pads, I learned to live with the brake dust. I don't find them too noisy but I cant hear them over my exhaust anyways.
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Mar 4, 2013 22:29
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Lowclock posted:Can anyone recommend a good street/mild performance pad for an '03 V6? I run PBR ULT Ceramics on my e34 and I love them but I can only seem to find them for GTs and up and not the base v6. This is just for dad so it won't get anywhere near a track, but he's always put lovely autozone pads and rotors on it and I'd like to get him something nice for once that isn't going to be loud or twitchy. I would stick with AutoZone stuff if not Ford/Motorcraft on a 03 V6.
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Mar 5, 2013 02:50
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I put down the best Mustang time at the autocross last weekend; there were 3 other Mustangs, all SN197s; a Roush, a 4.6 GT, and a 5.0 GT. I gotta say this car has been pretty good to me. The blackout bar is the best part in my opinion; don't see many with it, and I've never seen another gold one with it. Brakes on the car are way too small though; I would characterize them as "sufficient" but just barely. Is there any inexpensive braking upgrades I should consider doing on a '00 GT? 
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Mar 18, 2013 21:33
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clutchpuck posted:I put down the best Mustang time at the autocross last weekend; there were 3 other Mustangs, all SN197s; a Roush, a 4.6 GT, and a 5.0 GT. Ford Racing used to have a cheap front kit, it was 13" cobra rotors, 2x two piston calipers, and steel hoses. I think it was about 400 bucks at the time. I think they are pretty hard to find now. SVE makes a clone of that kit for $699. if you want "good" brakes wilwood or baer make $1200 and up kits. I would love to personally get a 14" rotor and 6 piston calipers for the WOW factor
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Mar 19, 2013 01:33
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My dad called me this morning asking to borrow my car for work. According to him, when he started his 2011 5.0 it was shaking violently and knocking so loud he thought the engine was going to blow. I went to his place to meet the tow truck and when I started it, it idled perfectly fine and smooth. Exhaust did smell pretty rich but the car was cold. It's at the dealer right now, but does anyone want to guess in the meantime as to its odd behavior? I'm thinking computer or sensor related messing up the timing. Or perhaps a bad battery screwing with the ECU? The car has been meticulously maintained and only runs premium. E: Also, unrelated, but our dealer had a Gotta Have it Green V6 in the showroom...goddamn. What a fitting name. That paint job is glorious. Mental Hospitality fucked around with this message at 03:03 on Mar 19, 2013 |
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Mar 19, 2013 03:01
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One of the dealers here has a 2013 Boss 302 in Gotta Have It Green. It's really something else.
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Mar 19, 2013 03:10
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I'm currently evaluating my options for a new 4.6 V8 flywheel and clutch, and I need a 6 bolt flywheel. I'm mostly going to be using it on road courses and as a weekend car. Any suggestions? Should I get the Ford Racing 21 lb steel, or get an aluminum flywheel?
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Mar 20, 2013 01:45
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Is a transmission cooler effective or snake oil (for track use)? http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=12495
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Mar 23, 2013 03:46
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Bumming Your Scene posted:Is a transmission cooler effective or snake oil (for track use)? I imagine about as effective as a cold air duct across your oil pan, i.e. not very. Now, if you ran a line to an external cooler and installed a pump for the gear oil, that might be a different story.
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Mar 23, 2013 04:06
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The tranny is finned, so ever so slightly more effective than if it weren't: http://mustangsdaily.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/01-2012-boss-302-underside.jpg Is that all trannies, or just the Boss'? Also, I just love the sig to post ratio from this Stang forum: 
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Mar 23, 2013 09:06
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Not sure if this has been posted here or not yet, but it's worth a repost. http://youtu.be/rK6usuQdgos
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Mar 23, 2013 09:33
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kimbo305 posted:The tranny is finned, so ever so slightly more effective than if it weren't: I think they all have those fins, but you can see the Boss 302 has the scoop below the transmission. The GT has just some bar going across 
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Mar 23, 2013 18:17
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kimbo305 posted:The tranny is finned, so ever so slightly more effective than if it weren't: If that was my ride, I'd probably have that sig on my face.
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Mar 24, 2013 01:34
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Looking for help identifying these unconnected wires or a resource I could use to identify them. These are on a 98 GT, first picture shows some wires located right behind engine, I found the connecting piece but the tabs don't match up quite right. Could be damage or could be the fact the the engine is from a 2002 And these are closer to the back of the car and will obviously need replacing.  Still loving this stupid loud lookatme machine, quite a change of pace to all the 4cylinder cars and trucks I've owned before it. Not so good at garage sales 
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Mar 24, 2013 18:26
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So I'm now going through the motor for a second time on my 96 GT track car. Both times have been the same issue, cracked pistons. There were definite signs of detonation on all the pistons, and in both instances of tearing into the engine the pistons in cylinders 3 and 4 have been cracked. The mods I have are PI heads/intake, off road x-pipe, A/C delete and cold air intake. The car has no tune, but does have a BBK timing adjuster and fuel pressure regulator. I'm still trying to decide if it's a heat related issue or if its running lean, or a combination of both. The engine never gets above 210-215* while on track, which I don't think is too hot, but I could be wrong. I have learned that there is an issue of the coolant stagnating in the rear of the cylinder heads, so I'm planning on doing the cooling mod (or crack pipe mod as some call it) this time. I'm also planning to box in more of the radiator and redesign my radiator air dam. I currently have a Mishimoto aluminum radiator. As far as tuning goes, the class I'm in only allows timing and AFR adjustments with a timing adjuster or fuel pressure regulator (this is a poo poo rule.) When I had it on the dyno I was able to get the AFR to around a 12.7 using the fuel pressure regulator. I'm not convinced adjusting the fuel pressure does anything once the car has been run for a while and the computer adjusts, but I could be wrong. I also pulled 2* of timing using the timing adjuster while on the dyno in hopes of reducing the chance of detonation. So I guess my question is, short of a tune, is there anything else I can do/check to ensure that I can reduce the chances of detonation? The MAF sensor is clean, O2 sensors are new, and I just replaced the fuel pump. Would a higher rated fuel pump be necessary in this situation? I'm only making 255-260 RWHP, so I would think the stock one would be sufficient. I'm also replacing the injectors as well. I've thought about going up to 24 lbs injectors, but without a tune I don't know if they would do any good. Even with a 19 lbs pulse width the 24's should push more fuel in, but I could be wrong. Any thoughts?
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Mar 24, 2013 18:40
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Get a proper tune that doesn't pop motors. If someone asks, that darn PO must have installed it! Also maybe throw a couple degree cooler thermostat in there? That temp isn't really that hot though, like you said. Lowclock fucked around with this message at 19:19 on Mar 24, 2013 |
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Mar 24, 2013 19:16
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TylerC 2.0 posted:
Those are the connectors for the two rear oxygen sensors which by the looks of your exhaust you don't have.
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Mar 24, 2013 19:26
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Lowclock posted:Get a proper tune that doesn't pop motors. If someone asks, that darn PO must have installed it! Running a 165* in it right now.
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Mar 24, 2013 20:30
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