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I have all 3 of the Damond mounts and they are pretty incredible. The way they reoriented the main axis of the bushing makes a tremendous difference in the amount of NVH you feel, especially for how stiff they are. I've had mine on for probably a year now and I couldn't be happier.
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Sep 18, 2016 16:19
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I ordered the Damond passenger side mount and will contact a local dealer about the corresponding studs/nuts/bolts. Not gonna lie, part of me can't help but wonder if the car is utterly hosed. I did more digging and saw plenty about shearing transmission mounts, even including a recall, but nothing about the passenger side.
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Sep 18, 2016 23:55
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Out with the old: In with the new:   I was at the dealership looking at getting a 2 when a white 3 happened to catch my eye - it was one of two facelifts they had on the lot (the other was a loaded and much more expensive Limited trim) in a sea of 2015 models and much to my surprise it had a manual transmission. After thinking about it over night I decided it was worth a drive, and after the drive I decided I was going to buy it. The amount of tech in even relatively low end new cars these days somewhat boggles my primitive brain - I've never even even had built in bluetooth let alone stuff like blindspot monitoring and speed sign recognition and brakes that apply themselves. It's a lot of money for what is essentially a big downgrade in the fun department but really it was time to let go of the MPS - when I actually felt like driving it was fantastic, but the rest of the time it was rattly, hard riding and unrefined. I just hope this ends up being a good compromise because I'm drat well sticking with it until the warranty is up.
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Sep 19, 2016 09:39
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Man, Gen3 styling is so nice but I'm such a sucker for Gen1 look that I don't know I'll ever be able to get rid of mine.
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Sep 19, 2016 13:41
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Whatup cosmic blue gen1 buddy  Nice looking new ride dissss! I have a mechanic friend who usually works on my car after hours, but I don't feel good about the possibility of the engine totally falling out and loving anything else up. Getting it towed to a shop to get a closer look now. Man I am taking easy access to Cobb for granted now.
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Sep 19, 2016 14:49
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I need to start thinking about respray options for my Gen1. No rust, but the touch up paint is starting to add up.
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Sep 19, 2016 16:18
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dissss posted:Out with the old  dissss posted:The amount of tech in even relatively low end new cars these days somewhat boggles my primitive brain - I've never even even had built in bluetooth let alone stuff like blindspot monitoring and speed sign recognition and brakes that apply themselves. Can someone with i-activsense comment on how useful the autobrake/collision alarms/RCTA is in real life? I'm looking around for cx-3 and cx-5s and trying to figure out if they are a must have.
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Sep 19, 2016 17:08
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Good news: Engine falling appears to not have done any major transmission/cv axle damage. Bad news: If they can't get that sheared stud out, engine timing cover needs to be replaced 
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Sep 19, 2016 22:31
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Any reason not to get a used 2013 CX-5 touring? There's one with 73k miles nearby, and I need to turn in my trusty RSX due to an enlarging family. I'd want to be able to plan on the car lasting at least 10 yrs without any major issues ideally. I test drove a 2014 Touring and loved it, though I know I'd be missing the extra 30 hp in the 2013, but I'm not going to be able to find a 2014 Touring or GT in my budget most likely ($15k out the door). Link here I did find a 2014 CX-5 Touring for $15.9k, but my concern is that there must be something horrific in the car's past not on its Carfax to get to that price.
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Sep 20, 2016 15:10
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73k miles in three years is a lot and the 2.0 leaves a lot to be desired, especially when it's 4WD. I'd say the reason that second one is so low is because it's FWD, but that's hard to say. air- posted:Bad news: If they can't get that sheared stud out, engine timing cover needs to be replaced But on the plus side, it would be a great time to replace the VVT and chain assembly if they already have to take the cover off. stoko fucked around with this message at 15:46 on Sep 20, 2016 |
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Sep 20, 2016 15:42
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Chu020 posted:Any reason not to get a used 2013 CX-5 touring? There's one with 73k miles nearby, and I need to turn in my trusty RSX due to an enlarging family. I'd want to be able to plan on the car lasting at least 10 yrs without any major issues ideally. I test drove a 2014 Touring and loved it, though I know I'd be missing the extra 30 hp in the 2013, but I'm not going to be able to find a 2014 Touring or GT in my budget most likely ($15k out the door). try driving a 2.0 version and see if you can put up with 155hp in a 3500lb car. it's probably dreadful. my wife had a protege5 and it handled well but the lack of power really sucked. my '14 GT cx-5 should be arriving on thursday/friday, i can't wait! OBAMNA PHONE fucked around with this message at 15:50 on Sep 20, 2016 |
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Sep 20, 2016 15:48
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I got linked up with a Mazda tech who does work on the side and he filled me in with more info about breaking mounts and such (even citing that my case is extreme and he'd never seen a falling engine). He had a spare OEM transmission mount that he'd sell to me, plus he told me some new details about the E-Focus rear motor mount, particularly that his wife didn't even notice it in his MZ3. Canceled my order with Damond since I noticed I had some store credit with Edge, so I picked up an OEM passenger mount with next day air. Fingers crossed I get my car back tomorrow, then I'll have the Mazda tech do the rear and transmission mounts (I don't have tools anymore, nor do I care to buy em). e: stoko posted:But on the plus side, it would be a great time to replace the VVT and chain assembly if they already have to take the cover off. I'm at 120k and my longblock was replaced at 70k due to hydrolock, is that something I need to worry about immediately? air- fucked around with this message at 15:55 on Sep 20, 2016 |
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Sep 20, 2016 15:51
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Ehhh, I got my clamp-on ebay roof rack today and there's no way I'm going to trust that thing not to gently caress up my paint or weatherstripping. Instead I'm going to DIY a metal bracket to connect it to my built in mount points. Should look 100x better and will probably be more secure IMHO. I guess I'll post some photos when I'm done, just gotta get some machine shop time booked.
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Sep 24, 2016 22:42
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Why don't you just buy parts built for this task instead of going through all this hassle?
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Sep 25, 2016 02:30
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Bovril Delight posted:Why don't you just buy parts built for this task instead of going through all this hassle? I made one bad rush decision buying the rack in the first place, now I'm trying to salvage what I can. I should have bought a proper Thule from the start but I didn't so 
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Sep 25, 2016 02:32
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I like how as soon as I decide to not buy a winter car friggin FIVE 6 wagons pop up on Craigslist.
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Sep 25, 2016 05:40
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So my '14 3s is getting close to 45k and it feels like I'm gonna need brakes soon. I've done basic maintenance on some of my cars, but have never done brakes. Was thinking about doing it myself. Two questions. Should I? And can anyone recommend some decent aftermarket pads and/or rotors? If it feels like OEM, that's fine.
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Sep 25, 2016 13:52
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A Proper Uppercut posted:So my '14 3s is getting close to 45k and it feels like I'm gonna need brakes soon. I've done basic maintenance on some of my cars, but have never done brakes. Was thinking about doing it myself. I don't have any brand recommendations, but brakes are seriously the easiest maintenance after like an oil change or ail filter replacement. If you can jack up your car to remove a wheel, you can handle brakes, don't be scared! Also you probably don't even need rotors yet, just pads, but I'll let you be the judge of that since you can see them and I can't.
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Sep 25, 2016 13:57
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Hawk HPS had way less dust than stock and I dig em. I should probably do brakes too... Got my car back and I ended up going with the E-Focus rear motor mount, and kept passenger and transmission oem. Total damage was about $1k.
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Sep 25, 2016 14:19
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Car's in the shop now, getting everything installed. I used to do all my own work, but  I asked the shop to get pictures throughout the install, which I'll post as I get them. After the install is done, it's heading over to Cobb Surgeline for a custom tune. Question for you performance guys, I'm trying to figure out if it'd be better for me to run an e85 mix or just say gently caress it and install a meth injection kit. The plus sides to e85 are that it's easier to know when I run out, I can just change the tune if I can't find any, and the initial investment is basically nothing. The plus sides to meth injection are that I wouldn't have to get all my gas from that one e85 station in town, it would provide more potential power, and it makes me feel like a cool dude. What do you think?
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Sep 26, 2016 18:47
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Something weird with my 2015 mazda 3 happened today. I'm currently at 23,709 miles and got the oil changed at 22k in June at the dealership. They put a sticker on the car saying it would be due 5000 miles later or in September 16, when the mileage would be at 27,000. Anyways, the wrench light came on today at around 23.7k miles and it was saying Oil Change at 0%, meaning it's due, which is 3k shy of what the sticker and normal reading said. I checked the dipstick and the level is still just above the 2 dots and it's not completely clean, but I've seen much much worse. Any ideas what is up? The only thing I can think of is maybe the maintenance app is set to time versus actual oil life and maybe I got the oil change done around the end of June, so 90 days would be right about now, but I'm not sure how to check that. I just checked my bank statement and I went to mazda on June 18, so maybe it's linked up to time, but I didn't think the oil change would drop to 0%, just that the time would be overexpired... nwin fucked around with this message at 19:01 on Sep 26, 2016 |
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Sep 26, 2016 18:56
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They probably just didn't reset it last time.
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Sep 26, 2016 19:39
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opengl128 posted:They probably just didn't reset it last time. Definitely possible...I guess I could just reset it and get it done in 3k miles and it should be fine I suppose. I also called the service department and they said there aren't any open recalls on my car right now, since I saw there was a service bulletin for oil pumps put out earlier.
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Sep 26, 2016 19:42
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Check your receipt for the oil change before 22k. How many miles did you have then? And what's the interval set in the car?
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Sep 26, 2016 20:48
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I have a 2016 Mazda 3 hatchback and I'm looking at getting winter tires. Are the wheels from previous generations compatible with the 3rd Generation?
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Sep 26, 2016 21:07
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mariooncrack posted:Check your receipt for the oil change before 22k. How many miles did you have then? And what's the interval set in the car? It was 15k...but the interval is set to flexible, so there's no fixed time limit or mileage. I think I recall checking it a few weeks (though it could have been a month or so) ago and I want to say it was around 50% oil life left though, so I thought they had changed it...perhaps not though. I mean, 1500 miles-there's no way an oil change would only last that long. I wonder if I were to reset the light, it would actually take a look at the oil and automatically degrade it to the right percentage? That's a pretty stupid thought though-I'm pretty sure it just takes an average of city/highway driving and says I need to get the oil changed at xx miles.
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Sep 26, 2016 21:10
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There's no direct sensing of the oil in any way - it's going to be based on some math that combines the number of miles driven with other factors (probably speed and temperature to name a few), and assumes the car starts with a fresh oil change. With that said, the dealer doesn't know any better than the car itself about oil changes. They're going to want you in there every 5000 miles, regardless of what the actual remaining oil life is.
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Sep 26, 2016 21:15
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IOwnCalculus posted:There's no direct sensing of the oil in any way - it's going to be based on some math that combines the number of miles driven with other factors (probably speed and temperature to name a few), and assumes the car starts with a fresh oil change. Yeah I think at this point I'm pretty safe in going from the mileage at last oil change (22k) and getting it changed around 27k as per their sticker. I'm sure I could go longer and send it to blackstone if nothing else. I will probably just reset the light.
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Sep 26, 2016 21:21
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stoko posted:Car's in the shop now, getting everything installed. I used to do all my own work, but Well gently caress. The shop emailed me to say that the turbo kit hadn't arrived from ATP yet. They said something about ATP running behind on orders, but I read it as them saying "we forgot to order the parts until today". What really pissed me off is that over the weekend I asked if we were still on for this morning and their response was "Ya everything should be at the shop". Grumble grumble grumble. They said the kit is supposed to be here on Thursday, and they should be able to start installing right away. Don't they know I'm sitting here impatiently waiting to snap my rear axles and go flying sideways into a tree???
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Sep 26, 2016 21:27
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worstrobot posted:I have a 2016 Mazda 3 hatchback and I'm looking at getting winter tires. Are the wheels from previous generations compatible with the 3rd Generation? Yup! I did the same thing, got them off an MPV. The cool thing is the TPMS is built into the ABS so no need to have sensors installed.
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Sep 26, 2016 23:49
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IOwnCalculus posted:There's no direct sensing of the oil in any way - it's going to be based on some math that combines the number of miles driven with other factors (probably speed and temperature to name a few), and assumes the car starts with a fresh oil change. I don't think it is even that smart. Our 2016 Mazda 6 has a configuration item in the vehicle settings screen. If I remember right it gives you 4 or 5 different mileage choices.
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Sep 27, 2016 03:44
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My gt3071r kit got to the shop today. I went over to check on the progress and got a look at the turbo. It's pretty nice looking. It's a gt3071r with a 4" inlet. Apparently ATP ended up welding the wastgate actuator mount onto the housing itself, as well as welding the high flow cat into the downpipe. The install is scheduled to be finished tomorrow afternoon, and I'll post pictures after I get them from the shop. stoko fucked around with this message at 16:52 on Sep 30, 2016 |
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Sep 30, 2016 04:39
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Hey stoko, would you be willing to say how much this is costing you? I'm currently negotiating with the girlfriend over how much I will be allowed to spend on my car over the next 6 months and your build is close to my endgame.
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Oct 1, 2016 19:02
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 Frankensteined these onto my roof this afternoon. Solid as a rock and looks/feels way better than using the frame clamps. Feel good about my $150 eBay gamble. I'm going to re-do these with a different screws next year to make it easier to remove. Essentially all I had to do was fabricate four metal clamps by throwing a steel plate into a bending jig, and drill a hole through the plastic struts to get to my fixed mounting points. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 23:05 on Oct 1, 2016 |
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Oct 1, 2016 23:01
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The installation still isn't complete, but it's mostly because of how much bigger the new turbo is than the old one. gt3071r vs k04. More pictures here I spent a while at the shop on Friday, looking over the progress and the parts. I stupidly didn't get a picture of the ETS top-mount or any of the other components, but they are looking real nice. Supposedly the install is on schedule to finish today, but until they call and tell me it's actually done, I'm not going to hold my breath. I'm kind of concerned that the stock EBCS won't be able to work with the new turbo, which is what the shop had planned. I don't know a huge amount about how a BCS works, but from my limited understanding, the stock MZR K04 uses a "bleed" style actuator, and the new one is setup strictly for interrupt. To be fair though, they install lots of turbos, and I have only a rudimentary knowledge of how they work, so I could be totally wrong. I'm still heading over to Corksport on my lunch so I can pick up a 3-port EBCS and a 3.5 bar map so I don't have to worry about it. After I get the car back, I'm going to swap all the fluids and then start working with Freektune (stupid name I know) to get a good e-tune on it. According to all the online resources I've found, they are one of the best tuners for the MZR platform, so I should be able to get a good baseline from them. Whenever Cobb finally releases the new version of Accesstuner (it now requires a $150 training, supposed to be available Oct 24th), I'm going to install an Aquamist HFS-4 WMI kit, and start tuning for that and an e85 blend. It should be making stupid power with WMI and e85, which I will use exclusively for making sure that everyone knows I am very insecure about my masculinity.
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Oct 3, 2016 18:43
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stoko posted:The installation still isn't complete, but it's mostly because of how much bigger the new turbo is than the old one. My tune was done by freektune and had a good experience. Decent response time to logs and knows his poo poo. You're probably going to be doing 4th gear WOT from 3k to redline so definitely plan the spot and time you're going to do that. 4th gear to redline is triple digits. Is this on a 6 or 3? Tires?
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Oct 3, 2016 20:03
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Google Butt posted:My tune was done by freektune and had a good experience. Decent response time to logs and knows his poo poo. You're probably going to be doing 4th gear WOT from 3k to redline so definitely plan the spot and time you're going to do that. 4th gear to redline is triple digits. It's a 06 MS6 with Cooper Zeon RS3-A's that have lots of life left on them. Unfortunately they're all-season, which I'm going to replace with dedicated winter/summer tires when they start to wear out. I'm not really sure where a good place in the PDX area to do the logging is, so I'm considering just booking some time on a dyno. I was also thinking of reaching out to The Spyder to see if he knows of anywhere safe. I just got a response from the shop, and it looks like the install is done. He's going through another heat cycle and checking for any leaks, and I'll be good to go from an install standpoint.
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Oct 3, 2016 22:05
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That's quite a turbo.
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Oct 3, 2016 22:08
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stoko posted:It's a 06 MS6 with Cooper Zeon RS3-A's that have lots of life left on them. Unfortunately they're all-season, which I'm going to replace with dedicated winter/summer tires when they start to wear out. A dyno is a good call. If you are forced to do it on a road, make sure it's as flat as possible (grade and surface). Be safe. If you can't find a remote road on Google maps, your last resort will be a freeway on ramp. Scout it out at low traffic time and only do a pull if nobody is around. Google Butt fucked around with this message at 22:20 on Oct 3, 2016 |
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Oct 3, 2016 22:16
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Google Butt posted:A dyno is a good call. If you are forced to do it on a road, make sure it's as flat as possible (grade and surface). Be safe. Yeah, I'm not that comfortable with doing the pulls on open roads. For someone with a reasonably powerful car, I'm a very sedate driver and tend to judge people for driving like crazies on public roads. I'll probably just go to a local dyno, or see if one of the local car clubs has a safe place for runs. I finally got the car back. After talking to the guys at Corksport and Cobb, they seem to think I should be making over 350awhp after a good tune, which seems a little on the high end. I would expect closer to 330, pre-WMI kit. Apologies for the dirty engine bay, but here is a shot of how it sits now:  That intercooler on top is the ETS one. It's pretty much the best TMIC you can get, and is a lot better than most front-mounts available on the MS6 as well. The ETS is almost twice as thick as the stock, and it includes the shroud. The intake is 3" all the way to the turbo inlet. What's neat about this is that ATP was able to press the pipe enough so it just fits in the stock position, but without really messing up the flow. It makes for a really nice, mostly stock appearance. I'm not a huge fan of how the filter looks, but as long as it does the job, I'm not too picky. I've got a 45-degree connector that I may end up cutting to shift the filter a little further away from the headlight, but then again I haven't really ragged on it at all yet, since I don't want to do too much before even getting a baseline tune in there, but so far it's surprisingly quiet. I decided not to do a catback at this point, since it only tends to make about 3-5 hp on the MZR. The real breathing bottlenecks are the intake and downpipe (and by extension first cat), which have been replaced. I can hear the turbo spooling and the BPV dumping, but on normal drives it sounds basically the same as it used to. The car feels a lot more responsive than before, but it will probably be even better once I clean the intake valves. When I pulled up to the shop, this was idling in front  (click for more) I didn't get a good side shot of it, but it looked totally stock from the outside. Under the hood though, it had EVERY SINGLE UPGRADE AVAILABLE from English Racing and a ton of custom work by ETS. It was definitely an over $100,000 build, and the owner of the shop said it was more like $200,000+. They had taken it to a dyno the other day, and it was just shy of 1600hp on a pretty conservative tune. It was bought for an NBA player, so he had some money to spend. stoko fucked around with this message at 02:38 on Oct 4, 2016 |
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Oct 4, 2016 02:25
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