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Which o-rings did you change? :-)
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Sep 8, 2009 04:31
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The ones between the carb boots and the engine itself. Those were pretty old, one side was completely squared off. Oh hey, just remembered another thing. I can't put it on the side stand, otherwise the bowls fill with gas and then flood the engine. As long as I use the center stand, this doesn't happen. It's not a big thing, my city doesn't have a whole lot of hill parking, but it's nice to have the option.
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Sep 8, 2009 04:40
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Chairon posted:My bike(Suzuki, GS500, 1991) is vibey as gently caress. On the ride back from the mechanics, I just had to pull over and beat my hands a bit, I couldn't feel them at all. After lunch i'm running over to the bike shop and see if they have any good grips that would help, these ones are really hard. Did the PO change the bars? Maybe he put new ones on that need added weight inside to act as a damper.
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Sep 8, 2009 04:57
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They didn't come with weights in the bars. However, vibey as poo poo could come from two or three things. It's a counterballanced motor, so it shouldn't shake to much. Check the valve clearances. Balance the carbs if that doesn't help. However, most likely, it's just that you're gripping the handlebars to freaking hard. I used to have some numbness problems due to that.
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Sep 8, 2009 06:25
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Nerobro posted:
Yeah, I think I was. Riding around earlier today, no numbness at all. Also tested for a vacuum leak and surprise surprise, it has one. I've got some other mechanical things to do(Oil changes! Hurray!) tommorow, so i'll bust rear end and see if I can't pinpoint the leak.
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Sep 9, 2009 05:28
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an actual frog fucked around with this message at 22:13 on Jun 24, 2020 |
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Sep 9, 2009 23:39
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Mechanism Eight posted:A late reply but after my '91 GS ( If your bars are hollow you can fill them with sand or bbs to help dampen the vibration.
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Sep 9, 2009 23:46
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) took a fall it lost the right-hand bar end weight and I've not quite got round to replacing it. It's certainly far more vibey at speed and as you learned I had to work on relaxing my grip a little at motorway speeds.
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So, I already hosed up. Was pulling on to the road where I park my bike on Thursdays (street sweeping) and managed to turn directly into a road crater. The bike took 0 damage but my nylon pants have a couple minor tears in the thigh area and I had some poo poo in my pocket that got pushed into my thigh by the full weight of the bike landing on it, so I'll probably have a bruise. Glad I was wearing biking pants, even if they are just nylon ones, they prevented me from ruining a pair of jeans and no road rash. So now I have to ask, what the hell do you do when there's something right in your line of travel during a turn? I hit the crater which I'm fairly sure caused me to lose traction, although I also realized I was going to hit the crater and may have done something to actually cause the fall. I realize I probably should have been looking ahead at the surface of the road and planning accordingly, but what do you do if it's already too late? The ninjette is a light bike, but it still hurts when it lands on your leg 
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Sep 9, 2009 23:57
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NoCleverName posted:So now I have to ask, what the hell do you do when there's something right in your line of travel during a turn? I hit the crater which I'm fairly sure caused me to lose traction, although I also realized I was going to hit the crater and may have done something to actually cause the fall. I realize I probably should have been looking ahead at the surface of the road and planning accordingly, but what do you do if it's already too late?
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Sep 10, 2009 00:05
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So I've been hearing a lot about the 1999-2002 YZF-R6 bikes having 2nd gear slippage issues and was wondering would it be a good idea to get that year R6 and fix the tranny fixed through an independent motorcycle mechanic? Reason I'm asking is because the prices for these R6's are pretty low and it looks a lot sleeker than the newer models. If that option is feasible what does the mechanic actually need to do to prevent the 2nd gear slippage from occurring again? Oh yeah and I currently own a CB750 and was considering removing the first oil bag that is right under the seat but I have no clue if it is possible. Well I did see a couple of pictures with the oil bag removed but I haven't got a clue how hard it would be to do so. Reason I want to do this is because I like the look of the empty sapce in the frame right under the seat. Makes it look a lot cleaner. Agrajag fucked around with this message at 00:13 on Sep 10, 2009 |
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Sep 10, 2009 00:10
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chryst posted:If there's no room or time to stand the bike up, then stay on the throttle and hope for the best. "too late" means you were going too fast, and/or not sighting through your turn. Yeah, thinking about it more now, I may have actually let off the throttle when I though "oh poo poo, I'm going to hit that pot hole". It was actually a very slow speed maneuver which is why there was essentially 0 damage. I'm thinking now that I may have overleaned and let off the throttle (maybe even braked? It's all a bit fuzzy) and just tipped over, without actually losing traction until I was down. I wish I had a video or something, I'm really not entirely sure what went wrong. Before I commute/ride on the road again I'm going to go to a parking lot and practice turns, because this is the first fall after 2 other close calls, both of which would have been higher speed failures. Will probably buy some cones.
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Sep 10, 2009 00:16
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Agrajag posted:So I've been hearing a lot about the 1999-2002 YZF-R6 bikes having 2nd gear slippage issues and was wondering would it be a good idea to get that year R6 and fix the tranny fixed through an independent motorcycle mechanic? Reason I'm asking is because the prices for these R6's are pretty low and it looks a lot sleeker than the newer models. That generation of R6 had a 3 dog 2nd gear, rather than the more typical 5-6 dog, which is what they moved to in 03. I wouldn't let that put me off from buying one if 2nd was in good shape, though, I'd just use it as a bargaining piece and budget for splitting the cases to fix the transmission if needed. Also, having the cases split to have that work done to it isn't going to be cost effective if you do it through a mechanic (easily 1000$ in labor, plus 400$ or more in parts), so if you're not comfortable working on it yourself, that may not be the best purchase. With that said, the transmission should be fine as long as it hasn't been abused. But it's sportbike, they've almost all had a hard life, and even if they've had an easy one, people botching shifts can still screw the bike up. NoCleverName posted:So, I already hosed up. Was pulling on to the road where I park my bike on Thursdays (street sweeping) and managed to turn directly into a road crater. The bike took 0 damage but my nylon pants have a couple minor tears in the thigh area and I had some poo poo in my pocket that got pushed into my thigh by the full weight of the bike landing on it, so I'll probably have a bruise. Glad I was wearing biking pants, even if they are just nylon ones, they prevented me from ruining a pair of jeans and no road rash. Well, as you've already figured out, you should be scanning. Scanning is the most important thing about keeping yourself out of trouble a motorcycle. If you're already on a collision course then option one is to swerve, option 2 is to stand it up and brake to avoid it, and option 3 is to just throttle up and hit it. If you are going to hit it, the one thing you must not do is hit the brakes. If you're braking and the front wheel loses traction, even a moderate amount of braking can prevent the tire from spinning again and regaining traction. Most of the time potholes shouldn't be a big deal, sound like you went for a handful of brake and that contributed to it tucking on you.
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Sep 10, 2009 00:27
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Z3n posted:That generation of R6 had a 3 dog 2nd gear, rather than the more typical 5-6 dog, which is what they moved to in 03. I wouldn't let that put me off from buying one if 2nd was in good shape, though, I'd just use it as a bargaining piece and budget for splitting the cases to fix the transmission if needed. How complicated is it to work on the tranny for a newbie wrencher? Do you think it would be doable if I was able to get my hands on a manual of some sort?
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Sep 10, 2009 02:44
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Well, answer this question: Are you comfortable removing the engine, pulling the top end, splitting the cases, and carefully tracking all of the little bits in the transmission while you swap out some gears? Motorcycles are basically like adult legos, but there are quite a few places where you can go wrong if you're not careful, and honestly, I'd count on doing the labor twice the first time you do it. If you're willing to get that deep into it, sure, it's possible. I'd say that if you know what you're doing, it's about 1.5 full days of work, if you don't, it's about 4 full days. In all honesty, I wouldn't recommend a transmission being the first thing you do on a motorcycle. You have to essentially take the entire engine apart to do it. If you've got someone who can help you who's experienced, it'd be fine. I would pass on any R6 with a 2nd gear issue. I would avoid any 99-02 unless you get a screaming deal on one.
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Sep 10, 2009 04:36
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Agrajag posted:So I've been hearing a lot about the 1999-2002 YZF-R6 bikes having 2nd gear slippage issues and was wondering would it be a good idea to get that year R6 and fix the tranny fixed through an independent motorcycle mechanic? Reason I'm asking is because the prices for these R6's are pretty low and it looks a lot sleeker than the newer models. Two things here. Lets address the first question first. Gears don't slip. if a gear slips, it's completely stripped off. Second gear is about the hardest working gear on a bike, so it's possable to strip the dogs off, or even flake the faces off of gear surfaces. The only fix for this is replacement. That said, I don't believe that's happening. What's much more common is the clutch slipping (again, most likely in second gear) which is an hour or two job even for a noob mechanic. Or the bike is slipping out of gear. That requires engine disassembly to access the shifter forks, or the drive dogs on the individual gears. There's nothing a mechanic can do to prevent this. And the things drag racers do to make the transmissions hold up, are not suitable for street use. If you're not abusive, you really don't have a lot to worry about. As for the CB750 question... Given your starting question, and the way you've phrased the question about the CB, it's not a project you should anticipate tackling. It can be done, but it can't be done by you, yet. Edit: Hmm, looks like z3n knows that generation R6 has a bum design to start with. I agree with him, either buy a pristine bike, or don't touch it. You're not in any sort of shape to be rebuilding the bottom end of a bike, while trying to assemble a transmission at the same time.
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Sep 10, 2009 04:49
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Honestly, I'm quite a bit  that anyone thought it was a good idea to remove 2-3 dogs from one of the most abused gears in a gearbox. Not only do you have to power through neutral but you also have to deal with the huge change in RPM from first to second. Any engine, even a well designed one, can have gear issues in any gear. My E had issues in 4th and 3rd from a lot of abuse, and that's with the 5 or 6 dog gears. 3 dogs? Jesus, that's just asking for it. 90% of the time, any gear issue is caused by the edges of the dogs being worn down to the point where they don't engage cleanly or slip out under load. You can back/under cut them to help avoid this, but again, you're already tearing down the engine to do that. The 06 ZX6R that I'm rebuilding has undercut dogs from the factory. Very cool.
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Sep 10, 2009 06:12
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Agrajag posted:How complicated is it to work on the tranny for a newbie wrencher? Do you think it would be doable if I was able to get my hands on a manual of some sort?
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Sep 10, 2009 12:19
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Okay, someone please ease my mind on this. Long story short, do I have to take apart the forks in order to drain and refill the fork oil? I can't seem to find anything in my Clymer manual about just checking the level, or how to drain and refill it, only instructions for completely disassembling them.
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Sep 11, 2009 01:56
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Knowing which bike it is would help greatly. Most modern bikes don't have drain screws on the forks. You actually need to flip them over to drain them.
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Sep 11, 2009 05:51
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So I'd like to cut the side plastics on my DRZ but to do it clean, I would need to relocate the battery to the air box. This seems to me taht it would cause a restriction in air coming in and would cause problems (especially since one of the first mods you do the the DRZ air box is to cut a 3x3 hole in the top to allow for more air flow). People on supermotojunkie have done this and said they didn't notice any performance issues. Would I be stupid to do this or would I be okay?
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Sep 11, 2009 13:36
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Sorry, it's the one i've been asking questions about for the past three days, the lovely GS500 of mine. :P I actually didn't know that either, looks like i'm going to get dirty today.
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Sep 11, 2009 13:36
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Should I spend 50 dollars and get lightweight pushrods for my sportster top end build?
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Sep 11, 2009 13:40
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Is it going to be revving really high? Regularly?
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Sep 11, 2009 15:00
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cmorrow001 posted:So I'd like to cut the side plastics on my DRZ but to do it clean, I would need to relocate the battery to the air box. The performance loss probably wouldn't be extreme as long as you located it somewhere relatively out of the way, so it wasn't restricting the intake flow. You would be changing the volume of the airbox, and may screw with the resonance of it a little, but it should be fine. The 3x3 hole is done because the stock intake is absurdly restrictive. This wouldn't be major compared to that.
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Sep 11, 2009 16:54
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Phat_Albert posted:Is it going to be revving really high? Regularly? High in terms of Harley Davidson, yeah.
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Sep 11, 2009 18:33
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When it comes to engine reliability, using lightweight valve train parts is ALWAYS a good idea. Yes, buy them.
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Sep 11, 2009 18:37
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Chairon posted:Okay, someone please ease my mind on this. Depends heavily on the fork design. The instructions for changing the oil is likely in the maintenance section of the manual. Check there and scan the whole chapter. If you have inverted forks like my bike it might be a small line that says to the effect of "You can't change it without removing the forks - see that section for removal instructions." I also seem to remember mine saying that you can't really check the level - you just have to change it and refill, but I could be misremembering too.
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Sep 11, 2009 18:43
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VTNewb posted:High in terms of Harley Davidson, yeah. Then go for it, the faster you're going to spin it, the more you'll see the advantages of lightweight valvetrain components.
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Sep 11, 2009 18:53
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Doctor Zero posted:Depends heavily on the fork design. The instructions for changing the oil is likely in the maintenance section of the manual. Check there and scan the whole chapter. If you have inverted forks like my bike it might be a small line that says to the effect of "You can't change it without removing the forks - see that section for removal instructions." Read it a whole bunch. I'm not liking this clymer manual very much, it gives a lot of contradictions. But it did tell me the steps I have to take in order to drain it, and assuming i'm right, I can just stop there, drain it, put in the right amount and slap it all back together, right? Now I just need to find an 8mm Hex bit that will fit on a half inch Impact wrench. Neither of my local hardware stores had one long enough
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Sep 11, 2009 19:21
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unless you're rebuilding them, you don't need to pull that retention bolt. Just take the fork legs out, and turn them over. cycle them a few times, and you're golden.
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Sep 11, 2009 20:30
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Woo! No questions for now, just wanted to say thanks to everyone whose helped me out with one of my stupid questions. I might not be the smartest apple in the store, but you guys are great. Just got done changing my fork oil and it's amazing. Protip: Fork oil is not supposed to be as black as coal 
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Sep 12, 2009 00:12
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Its been raining here a bit. My bike cover seems to do a better job of keeping water in and than out. Anyway, it had a little trouble starting.. then died. But then it started okay This is normal right?
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Sep 14, 2009 05:49
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BlueBayou posted:Its been raining here a bit. My bike cover seems to do a better job of keeping water in and than out. Not normally, but not really a surprise given your motorcycle's exposed nature.
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Sep 14, 2009 05:59
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If I lower my 1979 CB750 via lowering links (or shorter rear shocks) and dropping the forks by an inch or two on both ends, aside from lower clearance for cornering (not too worried there), is there anything I should worry about? I'm sick of tippy-toeing, especially on uneven (or soft) ground. I'd shave the seat, but I'm a better mechanic than I am a tailor.
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Sep 14, 2009 17:02
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Shlomo Palestein posted:If I lower my 1979 CB750 via lowering links (or shorter rear shocks) and dropping the forks by an inch or two on both ends, aside from lower clearance for cornering (not too worried there), is there anything I should worry about? I'm sick of tippy-toeing, especially on uneven (or soft) ground. I'd shave the seat, but I'm a better mechanic than I am a tailor. It's gonna change the steering geometry quite a bit. Bikes are very sensitive to ride height changes, a change of 8mm lower (moving the forks up in the triples) in the front turned my trackbike bike from too fast and very twitchy, to too slow and very difficult to turn. An inch or 2 is a huge ride height change. My ZZR1200 has the forks lifted an inch and a half in the triples, and it develops a nasty headshake at 35mph when you're off the throttle. Very annoying. It also feels somewhat flighty midcorner. I'd take the seat to an upholsterer and get it shaved down by them and have the foam replaced. I wouldn't mess with ride height unless you're looking for a particular change in handling.
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Sep 14, 2009 17:15
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Won't the lower rear help offset the geometry? As I imagine it the rake angle would remain the same with slightly shorter wheelbase. I've never tried a bike before and after a geometry change so I don't really know what I'm talking about.
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Sep 14, 2009 18:21
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Ola posted:Won't the lower rear help offset the geometry? As I imagine it the rake angle would remain the same with slightly shorter wheelbase. I've never tried a bike before and after a geometry change so I don't really know what I'm talking about. You can drop the rear as well, but it's not going to change the fact that you're adjusting the rake (and thusly trail) of the bike. These guys explain it better than I can. Remember that trail a big part of what keeps a motorcycle naturally upright and even minor modifications to trail can really, really change how a bike handles. 8mm of ride height change (.3 inches) caused the bike to switch from one extreme to the other. http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0310_art/index.html According to that article the sweet spot for trail is roughly 5mm wide, and even a minor adjustment in fork height can cause a serious difference in trail characteristics. The 1.5 inches of lift that I have currently on the ZZR is bringing my trail down a huge amount and as a result I get consistent headshake because I don't have enough trail for the bike to effectively self correct at certain speeds.
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Sep 14, 2009 20:10
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BlueBayou posted:Its been raining here a bit. My bike cover seems to do a better job of keeping water in and than out. Most covers won't keep your bike perfectly dry. They collect moisture in the morning, and trap moisture from the rain, which is why some people cringe when people say they store their bikes outside, even with a cover. The covers will keep dirt and crap off it though.
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Sep 15, 2009 03:48
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anyone think its plausible that a damaged head gasket would cause power loss above ~60% rpm? i swear i've eliminated just about everything else.
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Sep 16, 2009 01:34
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First, no, bad head gasket would cause power loss at low rpm. What about coils? battery voltage? points? condensor?
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Sep 16, 2009 05:18
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