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I'm sure I remember having a battery that had some sort of threaded terminal or anchor/capture nut arrangement so you didn't have to fiddle against gravity to get the screw to pick up the threads of the loose rectangle nut. Can't for the life of me remember where this existed, and it's possible it's something I imagined while fiddling against gravity to get the screw to pick up the threads of the loose rectangle nut.
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Dec 1, 2021 22:37
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Dec 1, 2021 23:04
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Just slather the nuts in dielectric grease so they stay put. No, more than that.
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Dec 1, 2021 23:40
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If it’s parasitic drain, consider some kind of disconnect. If it’s cold, LiFePO. You’re thinking of regular lithium batteries that explode when they heat up.
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Dec 2, 2021 04:57
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I had this issue. I also was in an underground carpark so couldn’t put up a solar panel. And parasitic drain due to trackers constantly trying to ping through concrete. In the end, I bought an Optimate DC to DC battery tender and an old (half dead) car battery. It’d be enough to keep the voltage up. Every few days I would carry the car battery up to the flat, charge it with a charger overnight, and then lug it back downstairs to resume trickle charging.
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Dec 2, 2021 11:20
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Removing the battery sounds like a lot less effort.
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Dec 2, 2021 13:19
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How do you "check" bearings such as crank? If you spin the crank and don't feel any resistance, grinding or play, is that a "yeah it's probably fine" situation? Is there anything to be gained by stripping down to individual components that would reveal anything more substantial other than a visual inspection for rust or something?
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Dec 2, 2021 13:39
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Martytoof posted:How do you "check" bearings such as crank? If you spin the crank and don't feel any resistance, grinding or play, is that a "yeah it's probably fine" situation? Is there anything to be gained by stripping down to individual components that would reveal anything more substantial other than a visual inspection for rust or something? There should be a spec for how much play they have.
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Dec 2, 2021 14:12
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builds character posted:There should be a spec for how much play they have. This. Also totally different specs for roller vs Babbitt. Batteries: Run a battery disconnect or go lifepo4 + insulation. Its happy space is up to 55C charge/discharge and charging only above 0C. These D/Cs are usually good for 100A. Not like your bike's starter is spinning is 305 or a Pentastar. You can get larger ones. I'm running several similar to these in a different application with solid reliability.
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Dec 2, 2021 20:25
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You can't 'check' roller main bearings in any meaningful way. Either you're taking the engine apart and it's an automatic replace, or you're not taking it apart and it's fine. Dirt bike engines are designed to have have every bearing replaced every time you take them apart, that's part of the reason they're fully roller bottom ends in the first place. If you have the top end off, try removing the clutch and giving the crank a spin. If it spins smooth and without any rattles or clunks it's probably fine. If you have doubt then just take the engine apart and replace every bearing.
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Dec 2, 2021 20:43
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Jazzzzz posted:Wire in a battery tender lead and get yourself a lithium jump pack you can plug into it. Jump pack stays inside with you and charges, when you want to ride you can jump the bike and go lol I did this for my jump pack for when I camp in <20° and my LiFePo battery doesn't like starting immediately. only had to use it once when I had all my heated poo poo turned on to warm the battery and forgot to shut it off before firing it up  not having to deal with a tender is worth that trade off imho
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Dec 3, 2021 03:43
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Well my bike still wont' start. Doesn't help I left it forever without even kicking it like an idiot. But I did the two big simple fixes. I drained the old gas and put some new gas in there, and I swapped out hte battery with a new one. Its EFI with kick start which is exactly as dumb as it sounds but still won't kick start. I am not sure what hte next steps are...
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Dec 4, 2021 20:03
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When you turn it on do you hear the pump prime?
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Dec 4, 2021 20:12
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No electric start at all? Do the gauges come on and light up and stuff? Do you smell gas coming out the exhaust pipes after you kick it a bunch of times without starting? If you pull out the spark plug, is it wet with fuel? Have you checked for spark? Take the plug out, keep it connected to the lead, ground the body of the plug against the frame somewhere NOT next to the plug hole, and turn the engine over and watch for the spark. Have you tried kicking it with choke on, choke off, throttle closed, throttle open? Do you ever get any coughs or hints of ignition, or is it just turning over with no signs of life?
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Dec 4, 2021 20:14
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Sagebrush posted:No electric start at all? Yes everything power wise seems to work. No clue about hte spark plug though obviously. I guess taking it out is the next big step... As far as kicking it, there is no choke, I think, becaus its efi. I have kick it with throttle open, throttle closed, and it always just turns over with no signs of life, no coughs, no hints of ignition. I am guessing that probably does point to a spark issue maybe?
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Dec 4, 2021 20:21
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start with spark since it’s easier to troubleshoot than fuel injection issues
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Dec 4, 2021 20:33
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So I pulled the spark plug and it looked like poo poo so I just got a replacement. I installed it but still no kick. I guess I'm not sure I fully understand how to check the new spark plug actually Sparks. I unscrew it from the socket and then replace the spark plug cap and just try and stare at it as I kick it?
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Dec 4, 2021 21:18
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Yes, you leave the plug connected to the lead and turn the engine over. You have to ground the plug through its threads by resting it on some part of the frame or engine case. Try not to put it near the plug hole, because as you crank it over there could be fuel vapor getting pushed out and you don't want to light yourself on fire. If the ignition system is working, you should periodically see a tiny blue spark jump between the electrodes. Hard to see in the sun; it helps to do this in a garage or something. You didn't say what kind of bike it is, but a kick start EFI sounds like a single-cylinder dirt bike to me, so you might see a spark once on every revolution or once every other revolution (which you can tell by listening to the plop-plop sounds coming out of the spark plug hole). If you're  you can also hold the plug in your hand and kick the bike over, and if your arm twitches and feels like someone slapped it, you have a spark.If you have a spark, and we assume compression is fine cause there's no reason it shouldn't be, all that's left is fueling. If fuel is getting injected, you should smell it and/or notice that the plug is wet after a bunch of cranking. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 21:27 on Dec 4, 2021 |
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Dec 4, 2021 21:22
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Ok so I verified that my spark plug Sparks outside the engine. I then reinserted it and tried all sorts of kicks, with and without open throttle. Then I pulled the plug. It looked pretty much bone dry though did smell like fuel. I'm guessing fuel is the next problem? I'm not sure where to start. Maybe see if the shut off valve is even letting fuel through? I have no idea how to troubleshoot an efi system
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Dec 5, 2021 05:56
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1. Does the pump prime? 2. Do you have a multimeter? If the answer to the second question is no, go to a mechanic.
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Dec 5, 2021 17:27
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Slavvy posted:1. Does the pump prime? How do I know if the pump primes? I'm not really sure what that means... Yes I do have a multi meter
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Dec 5, 2021 22:14
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If the plug is bone dry after turning the engine over for a while, you aren't getting fuel into the cylinder(s). Still don't know what kind of bike you have, but if it's fuel-injected there will be a fuel pump somewhere. It could be inside the tank or mounted externally somewhere. When you first turn the bike on, you should hear it whirring or making some sort of noise as it pressurizes the lines ("primes"). The fuel pump is the most likely culprit in this case. It could also be -- roughly in order of likelihood -- a clog in the lines, a bad injector, something wrong with the throttle body, or the ECU is hosed up. But the pump is probably the problem. Find it and listen closely while you turn it on.
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Dec 5, 2021 22:21
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Ok if you have a multimeter you need to locate the pump and work out if it's getting power when it should be. Being a kick only bike this may happen when you turn it on, or it may only happen when the engine is physically turning. The pump will have two wires, one is power one is earth. If both of those check out the pump is probably faulty. If you have no power there's a good chance your problem is the pump relay or the wiring that deals with that. If you have no earth you probably have a bad earth connection or a broken wire somewhere.
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Dec 5, 2021 22:42
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:When you turn it on do you hear the pump prime?
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Dec 5, 2021 23:34
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So I believe I do hear the pump prime. It's a 2016 SR400. What I kick the bike too I hear the pump prime I believe (it makes a whirr). Oddly after kicking it some I hear what sounds like something letting of pressure. Like a hiss as something depressurizes.
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Dec 5, 2021 23:49
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Skyarb posted:So I believe I do hear the pump prime. It's a 2016 SR400. What I kick the bike too I hear the pump prime I believe (it makes a whirr). Oddly after kicking it some I hear what sounds like something letting of pressure. Like a hiss as something depressurizes. Ok, but do what I said anyway.
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Dec 5, 2021 23:56
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Slavvy posted:Ok, but do what I said anyway. Will do shortly!
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Dec 6, 2021 00:25
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Slavvy posted:Ok, but do what I said anyway. big dad energy
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Dec 6, 2021 05:32
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:big dad energy It keeps hitting me that I am now literally a dad.
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Dec 6, 2021 05:38
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This forum is rapidly turning into a bunch of dads. Maybe 20 years from now we will all still be here and all of our opinions will be seen as outdated and bigoted and the kids in cyberspace will have a cycle-asylum.vr thread where they take screenshots of our posts and give us the chloe face.
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Dec 6, 2021 06:23
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I will forever be 18 mentally to counterbalance this. I make horrible decisions and spur so much disappointment to make up for everyone’s well adjusted offspring. That’s just one of the many services I provide.
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Dec 6, 2021 13:56
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Slavvy posted:If you have the top end off, try removing the clutch and giving the crank a spin. If it spins smooth and without any rattles or clunks it's probably fine. If you have doubt then just take the engine apart and replace every bearing. I always have doubt but I’m going to check the specs for play. It has no perceptible vertical play, both cranks have the same amount of incredibly minute lateral play, and even less angular play (it’s there on both, but I can’t stress how minimal this feels without proof from some kind of dial indicator I guess) I’m happy to just take the new bottom end I got and slap it in without pulling it apart. It feels just as good as my existing bottom end which I’ll probably continue to pull apart for shits and giggles just to see what’s inside and maybe continue to repair just for fun, so I have a known-good bottom end I did with my own two hands. Under the banner of “leave well enough alone” I’m just going to scrub some of the dirt off the outside of the lower end and re-assemble everything.
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Dec 6, 2021 14:03
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Skyarb posted:So I believe I do hear the pump prime. It's a 2016 SR400. What I kick the bike too I hear the pump prime I believe (it makes a whirr). Oddly after kicking it some I hear what sounds like something letting of pressure. Like a hiss as something depressurizes. Just want to make sure… it is on, right? Key in, turned to on or whatever? Is there a kickstand switch? Before replacing a fuel pump I would use my multimeter to make sure all the “ya, start the bike is ok” wires check out.
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Dec 6, 2021 14:17
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fwiw some efi systems only run the fuel pump when there's an active crank/cam position sensor signal. If you get no power to the pump on key on/kill switch on, try kicking the kicker.
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Dec 7, 2021 15:59
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Hell, my Hawk does that and it's not even EFI.
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Dec 7, 2021 17:55
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So uh what does a fuel pump on this bike even look like, I cannot seem to find what appears to be a fuel pump and then also find the wires that go into it... I am loving dumb
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Dec 8, 2021 18:12
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It is a black metal can and it's behind the left side cover. Part 24/25:
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Dec 8, 2021 18:23
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Are there any BC riders that can share some advice re: getting insurance quotes? I can get an online quote from Megson & Fitzpatrick, but that's just for all perils and gear add-on, not ICBC liability or additional liability. Am I going to have to pretend it's still 1999 and phone half a dozen brokerages to see who's willing to run numbers for me on bikes I might be interested in buying but don't actually own yet? Or is there one that comes recommended as being somewhat helpful?
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Dec 10, 2021 07:44
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Hmm curious problem on my 99 VFR, sitting at 106500 miles or so, replaced the Stator and Rectifier at around 99000 miles since I was having charging issues. I did my usual ~50 mile commute was unable to start the bike back up, battery apparently didn't have enough charge. Luckily I carried my small battery booster and it fired up again. When I got it home I tested the charging system while it was running and while revved up in the 3-5k range and it was reading a good voltage of around 14.5 volts and the bike does not die on it's own while running leading me to believe the charging system is doing its job. Figured it was maybe a battery gone bad so I replaced it with a new one and it was fine for about a day and a half and i've run into the same problem of the battery seemingly drained and unable to start on its own, was still able to put my booster on and rode it home. Any ideas? I'm going to check the charging system again of course but maybe i'm missing something that I should have checked?
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Dec 10, 2021 08:03
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infraboy posted:Hmm curious problem on my 99 VFR, sitting at 106500 miles or so, replaced the Stator and Rectifier at around 99000 miles since I was having charging issues. I did my usual ~50 mile commute was unable to start the bike back up, battery apparently didn't have enough charge. Luckily I carried my small battery booster and it fired up again. When I got it home I tested the charging system while it was running and while revved up in the 3-5k range and it was reading a good voltage of around 14.5 volts and the bike does not die on it's own while running leading me to believe the charging system is doing its job. Figured it was maybe a battery gone bad so I replaced it with a new one and it was fine for about a day and a half and i've run into the same problem of the battery seemingly drained and unable to start on its own, was still able to put my booster on and rode it home. Any ideas? I'm going to check the charging system again of course but maybe i'm missing something that I should have checked? Hopefully the parts you installed were good, but have a look at all the connectors between the battery, start relay, and all the way down to the stator. Pull the start relay out and make sure the base isn't corroded and/or melted. Same with all the connectors.
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Dec 10, 2021 08:12
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