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KozmoNaut posted:Unless you're playing back your music on something slower than a 200MHz Pentium II, What if I do all my audio playback on a PS1
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Aug 9, 2016 23:45
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ColdPie posted:What if I do all my audio playback on a PS1 Convert everything to XA, natch
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Aug 9, 2016 23:48
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Panty Saluter posted:Convert everything to XA, natch But only if you're using a SPCH-1001 model. Which you should.
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Aug 9, 2016 23:50
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jonathan posted:I have 4 corner loaded subs and the extra efficiency helps me keep from blowing 15a breakers. If you need to corner load 4 subs and blow 15a breakers I'm not sure you're allowed to use the word 'efficiency' 
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Aug 10, 2016 12:57
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88h88 posted:If you need to corner load 4 subs and blow 15a breakers I'm not sure you're allowed to use the word 'efficiency' That depends on how low you want your flat frequency response to go. Sub-20Hz at 120+dB is an extremely intense experience.
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Aug 10, 2016 13:22
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KozmoNaut posted:That depends on how low you want your flat frequency response to go. Sub-20Hz at 120+dB is an extremely intense experience. That's why you use a rotary sub https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E7Bkrypxzs4
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Aug 10, 2016 13:37
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I just ordered the Pioneer Atmos add on speakers to go with the rest of my Andrew Jones 5.2 (now to be 7.2) set. (They are $75 today on https://www.meh.com) Has anyone used them before? Do they just sit on top of my floor speakers or do they mount somehow?
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Aug 10, 2016 13:50
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Wherever is ideal for the reflections off the ceiling to hit your normal listening position, really.
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Aug 10, 2016 13:51
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88h88 posted:If you need to corner load 4 subs and blow 15a breakers I'm not sure you're allowed to use the word 'efficiency' Well, corner loading can give you up to a 6db boost which is 400% more efficient. I'm not getting that much boost as 3 or the corners share a concrete foundation which is a bit too stiff, and I also have bass traps which reduces efficiency some. I don't have a way to measure efficiency but I can do 10hz @ 115db sine wave sustained without popping the breaker. Ironically I was able to do it with just 2 subs and half the wattage overhead when they were ported (the enclosures were huge and unsightly). I don't know if I could do over 120db. I broke some plumbing and came home to a flooded kitchen on boxing day.
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Aug 10, 2016 18:35
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KozmoNaut posted:Unless you're playing back your music on something slower than a 200MHz Pentium II, it won't make difference to anything other than storage space, and probably only single-digit percentages at that. Yeah I have a core i5 notebook so I'm ok there, some of the FLACs I have are low-compression and I'd rather clear up the space, also the Sarasota public library has a pretty good collection of CDs so I can try ripping them to FLAC if they're not too scratched up. I've compared some old WMAs I made a few years ago (at the highest bitrate I could) to FLACs and I can tell a bit of a difference, but I may have just used crappy software or I'm getting a placebo effect. The FLACs sound a bit cleaner and brighter (if I'm using that descriptor properly). Filthy Hans fucked around with this message at 02:38 on Aug 11, 2016 |
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Aug 11, 2016 02:35
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You'll never gain back lost fidelity by ripping up to a lossless codec from lossy.
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Aug 11, 2016 04:44
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Filthy Hans posted:I've compared some old WMAs I made a few years ago (at the highest bitrate I could) to FLACs and I can tell a bit of a difference, but I may have just used crappy software or I'm getting a placebo effect. The FLACs sound a bit cleaner and brighter (if I'm using that descriptor properly). For fun, you can try the ABX comparison plugin for Foobar2000, that'll definitely show you whether you can hear a difference or not in a blind test. Personally, I converted my whole library of FLAC rips to MP3 to save a lot of space on my NAS. I can't hear a drat difference anyway, even at moderate bitrates.
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Aug 11, 2016 06:50
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Full Circle posted:You'll never gain back lost fidelity by ripping up to a lossless codec from lossy. I know that, I downloaded FLACs and compared them to the WMAs I made 5 or 6 years ago
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Aug 11, 2016 07:04
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That should be reasonably easy, WMA is a poo poo-tier codec.
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Aug 11, 2016 07:32
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Was this the thread way back where someone had some experience building cooler boomboxes? I had been considering putting one together but ended up finding one in a pelican case on CL. Classic crappy Chinese t-amp and some polk 2-ways with a 7AH 12v battery. Anyway the only real problem is the ridiculous Bluetooth 3.5mm adapter that needs to be turned on separately. Should I get a better crappy Chinese amp with bluetooth built in? Should I get a better BT adapter that I can hard wire to the battery/switch? If so what?  
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Aug 12, 2016 21:45
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rizzo1001 posted:Was this the thread way back where someone had some experience building cooler boomboxes? I had been considering putting one together but ended up finding one in a pelican case on CL. Classic crappy Chinese t-amp and some polk 2-ways with a 7AH 12v battery. Anyway the only real problem is the ridiculous Bluetooth 3.5mm adapter that needs to be turned on separately. I was thinking of doing something like that with my old car speakers, but after the cost of everything else, I thought why would I use those lovely car speakers?
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Aug 13, 2016 05:44
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rizzo1001 posted:Was this the thread way back where someone had some experience building cooler boomboxes? I had been considering putting one together but ended up finding one in a pelican case on CL. Classic crappy Chinese t-amp and some polk 2-ways with a 7AH 12v battery. Anyway the only real problem is the ridiculous Bluetooth 3.5mm adapter that needs to be turned on separately. What is the issue with turning on the bluetooth? It has a switch built into it so you need a different one without a switch? Or it requires a different power source than the amp, and the BT power supply has a switch that you have to turn on?
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Aug 13, 2016 16:46
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taqueso posted:What is the issue with turning on the bluetooth? It has a switch built into it so you need a different one without a switch? Or it requires a different power source than the amp, and the BT power supply has a switch that you have to turn on? The Bluetooth has a separate internal battery, no clue how long it lasts and it's a pain to turn on/off and charge separately. I'd like to have one power switch to power both the amp and BT if possible.
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Aug 13, 2016 19:17
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I got one of these BT receivers and it works fine. It's powered by 5V micro-usb, so it is easy to find ways to get it powered. Since you have a 12V battery, you could use a usb charger designed to go in a car. That aliexpress BT receiver took a few weeks to get here, I searched on amazon and you can get something similar for like $15 and get it right away.
taqueso fucked around with this message at 19:28 on Aug 13, 2016 |
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Aug 13, 2016 19:25
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taqueso posted:I got one of these BT receivers and it works fine. It's powered by 5V micro-usb, so it is easy to find ways to get it powered. Since you have a 12V battery, you could use a usb charger designed to go in a car. That aliexpress BT receiver took a few weeks to get here, I searched on amazon and you can get something similar for like $15 and get it right away. I have the mpow one right now which is my problem, it doesn't automatically power on...does the AliExpress one turn on when you put 5v to it?
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Aug 13, 2016 23:10
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rizzo1001 posted:I have the mpow one right now which is my problem, it doesn't automatically power on...does the AliExpress one turn on when you put 5v to it? Yeah, it does.
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Aug 14, 2016 05:00
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taqueso posted:Yeah, it does. This is what I want but apparently the bt is crap. I guess separate board it is... https://www.amazon.com/Nobsound%C2%AE-TPA3116-Bluetooth-Receiver-amplifier/dp/B00WSK86U6
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Aug 14, 2016 17:35
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rizzo1001 posted:This is what I want but apparently the bt is crap. I guess separate board it is... Maybe this one: https://www.amazon.com/XINGDONGCHI-Bluetooth-Wireless-Receiver-Headphones/dp/B01CHXPK02/
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Aug 14, 2016 19:01
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taqueso posted:Maybe this one: https://www.amazon.com/XINGDONGCHI-Bluetooth-Wireless-Receiver-Headphones/dp/B01CHXPK02/ Cool, looks good enough so I grabbed that and a 12 to 5v stepdown. If anyone else knows of a better (louder obviously  China amp for boomboxes please do tell.
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Aug 15, 2016 18:51
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I'm looking at getting about 2k or so of equipment for my office, in the form of active speakers and a DAC. Around a PC, should I care about balanced connections, or are traditional fine? I figure if it's not excluding great gear balanced seems more fool-proof.
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Aug 17, 2016 16:50
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ShaneB posted:I'm looking at getting about 2k or so of equipment for my office, in the form of active speakers and a DAC. Around a PC, should I care about balanced connections, or are traditional fine? I figure if it's not excluding great gear balanced seems more fool-proof. Most decent active speakers will have a good DAC anyway, I'm thinking of stuff like the KEF X300 or Audioengine HD6. That said I'm not a believer that a super fancy DAC will do much more than a cheapish one. If I had that budget I'd probably do something like a NAD 3020 and KEF LS50. It sounds like you're thinking about high-end studio monitors, in an office you're not really going to need to worry about balanced vs. unbalanced.
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Aug 17, 2016 19:38
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qirex posted:Most decent active speakers will have a good DAC anyway, I'm thinking of stuff like the KEF X300 or Audioengine HD6. That said I'm not a believer that a super fancy DAC will do much more than a cheapish one. If I had that budget I'd probably do something like a NAD 3020 and KEF LS50. It sounds like you're thinking about high-end studio monitors, in an office you're not really going to need to worry about balanced vs. unbalanced. I'm looking at the Dynaudio X14a, to be precise.
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Aug 17, 2016 19:42
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ShaneB posted:I'm looking at the Dynaudio X14a, to be precise. Ah, so you need a DAC/preamp with volume control. The NAD 1050 or Cambridge DACMagic Plus have balanced and normal outputs.
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Aug 17, 2016 22:45
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qirex posted:Ah, so you need a DAC/preamp with volume control. The NAD 1050 or Cambridge DACMagic Plus have balanced and normal outputs. Yes, I've been doing way too much research on this poop. So tedious.
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Aug 17, 2016 23:04
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My Denon S910W is installing the DTS:X firmware right now  (lol, I'm never going to see the benefits with a 3.0 system)
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Aug 18, 2016 04:52
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Is there any kind of technology that can wirelessly beam audio from the receiver to another room? My kitchen is a long way from my living room, but I'd love to be able to have a pair of speakers in there that are playing the same tunes as are playing in the living room. The problem is the wireless part... I know a lot of receivers can receive things like bluetooth or wireless audio sources, but transmitting to somewhere else seems not a thing.
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Aug 18, 2016 15:32
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Wireless audio transmitter/receivers definitely exist - https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Transmitter-Receiver-Subwoofers-Surround/dp/B00SJ49ZJQ for example. I don't know which ones are good though.
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Aug 18, 2016 16:54
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So how out of date is the info on the first post? My Onkyo receiver decided that it doesn't want to output sound to the speakers anymore, but is still switching video and outputting audio to the TV speakers without issue. Can I badger Onkyo into fixing it or do I need to go get a new receiver? What's a good basic 5.1 receiver these days?
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Aug 23, 2016 00:49
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Glass of Milk posted:So how out of date is the info on the first post? My Onkyo receiver decided that it doesn't want to output sound to the speakers anymore, but is still switching video and outputting audio to the TV speakers without issue. Can I badger Onkyo into fixing it or do I need to go get a new receiver? What's a good basic 5.1 receiver these days? Do you mean only over HDMI, or over analog audio inputs too? If the issue is anything HDMI related, you can probably badger Onkyo for a fix. They fixed my TX-NR515 twice so far.
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Aug 23, 2016 16:33
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Twerk from Home posted:Do you mean only over HDMI, or over analog audio inputs too? If the issue is anything HDMI related, you can probably badger Onkyo for a fix. They fixed my TX-NR515 twice so far. I only have HDMI inputs, yeah. I'll go pester them.
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Aug 23, 2016 19:56
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Edit: Just cycled surround sound on and off a few times and it clicked in. I've got a Samsung TV that I have directly connected to a VIZIO S5451w-C2. I can't get my satelite speakers working. Sub works fine though. I've got it connected over hdmi Arc. The settings on my TV are: Hdmi audio format: Bitstream (pcm only other option) Audio format : dts neo 2.5 (pcm only other option) Audio delay: 0 (defaulted to 100) Dolby digital comp: line (rf other option) HD audio: on Anyone know what's going on? Jewce fucked around with this message at 23:51 on Aug 25, 2016 |
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Aug 25, 2016 03:10
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Is there a go-to 2 channel amp that has Bluetooth input that people recommend these days ? Something like the $99 monoprice tube amp hybrid, but I wonder if there is something better I can order straight out of China
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Aug 28, 2016 23:26
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I wanna build a 5.1 surround system with Polk RTIA series speakers. Can anyone recommend a receiver? I'm not knowledgable about speakers just going with Polk as a family brand loyalty kind of thing :V
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Aug 29, 2016 05:06
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EAB posted:I wanna build a 5.1 surround system with Polk RTIA series speakers. Can anyone recommend a receiver? I'm not knowledgable about speakers just going with Polk as a family brand loyalty kind of thing :V Get a Denon. x2200 seems to be a favorite of most people and it has the good Audyssey version.
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Aug 29, 2016 05:22
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EAB posted:I'm not knowledgable about speakers just going with Polk as a family brand loyalty kind of thing :V Don't do this. You don't have to be knowledgeable about speakers. Just walk into a Best Buy, ask to hear several speakers in your budget, and pick the ones that sound best to you.
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Aug 29, 2016 05:49
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