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Slavvy posted:Caliper slides sticky or the piston itself The slides can be greased, but what about the piston? I only replaced it couple of years ago. Should I pack the dust seal with high-temp grease or something?
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May 6, 2024 14:37
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Nah it'll likely be poo poo built up inside the bore, often the bore itself is poorly machined and you just need to give it a brief hone. The other thing that happens is the pads sort of jam on the caliper, the fact that kicking it fixed it could point to that. Try lubing the area where they touch the caliper and sanding things down if there's any lumpiness.
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May 6, 2024 19:21
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Slavvy posted:Imo if you're getting more heat with more speed it can only really be a clogged system or you have an engine problem So, weird update, in researching this, a huge number of goldwing grandpas are recommending cleaning the radiator fins, as they collect a ton of crap, bugs, leaves, etc, and you can’t see it like on a regular bike, because they blow into the backs of the radiators. So over lunch I sprayed my radiator fins down with simple green to loosen things up and then blasted them with the garden hose. Many a bug carcass came out, they were for sure dirty. This brought my temps on the freeway down a notch on the temp gauge, so it helped, but things aren’t fixed. Next is checking the coolant level, and then replacing the coolant and changing the oil (I am currently panicking that I need a head gasket or two)
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May 7, 2024 02:02
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Beve Stuscemi posted:So, weird update, in researching this, a huge number of goldwing grandpas are recommending cleaning the radiator fins, as they collect a ton of crap, bugs, leaves, etc, and you can’t see it like on a regular bike, because they blow into the backs of the radiators. Lol I was gonna suggest that! Try blasting it with a pressure washer if you have one.
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May 7, 2024 02:12
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metallicaeg posted:The other day on the (2005, 26k miles) FZ6 I had what I'd guess is a partially stuck open throttle. If I'm in gear, the revs stay up; not full throttle, but basically like a cruise control. Not enough to accelerate, but enough to offset engine braking. If I forcefully twist the throttle to the negative beyond letting it go, it'll calm the revs somewhat. WELL I ended up pulling apart the plastics at the throttle grip, found that the return cable was super loose. The adjustment at the throttle bodies doesn't look as if it suddenly moved a whole lot, so with the clutch cable snapping last year I decided to order new accel and decel cables. Looks like it should be just about the same sort of job as the clutch cable was.
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May 9, 2024 01:43
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Well this sucks. I went out with the plan to ride DRZ on gravel for a couple of hours. I made it a few km until I got an angry red temperature light. So I'm just sitting by the road waiting for the bike to cool down enough to limp back home. Reading the manual on the phone sucks but I think the temp sensor for the fan is at the top of the left radiator and the sensor for the idiot light is on the right. If this is indeed the case, I don't think I'm actually overheating. The radiators feel pretty cool immediately after riding but heat up as the bike sits turned off, almost like they are doing their job in the airstream. The temp light goes out when I turn on the high beam and that idiot light shines, which is weird and a very bad design if my electricals are working correctly. At no point has the cooling fan come on while I've had this bike, so I'm not sure it actually works. Anyways while I've posted this time has passed and nothing in the bike is hot to the touch, temp light still shines. I'm thinking electrical problem. We shall see. Hopefully I don't blow a headgasket in three minutes. E: made it home. I'll let the bike sits until totally cold. That will tell me something at least if the light goes out or not. Invalido fucked around with this message at 16:16 on May 10, 2024 |
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May 10, 2024 16:10
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Definitely an electrical gremlin of some sort. I let the bike cool over dinner, still an idiot light, still went away with the high beam on. Same behaviour with engine off or on and revving, so unlikely to be due to a voltage drop. Anyway bro and I tore into the bike, figuring we'd put the multimeter to the temp switches to see if that was the problem - it wasn't. At some point after messing with the connectors to the instrument cluster, it started behaving like it should again i.e. no temp warning light on a cold bike. No signs of anything awry, no corroded or wet or dirty or loose connectors, temp sensors (both cooling fan and idiot light) reads open like they should. Since these switches close when hot, a possible fault would be a short somewhere but the cabling that I can see look fine. I don't know what to do about this other than ride the bike and just keep riding if I get the same fault again instead of overreacting. The idiot light cluster seems like a super simple design but I can't really access the inside of it since everything is well potted in epoxy or similar, though I guess a fault in there like a cracked solder joint or something is a likely candidate. Anyway apart from the ride that didn't happen it wasn't a total waste of time. I've verified I have enough coolant without signs of engine oil in it, and I've checked that the fan works when I short its temp switch. Other than that, a waste. Intermittent problems suck, trying to fix things and succeeding without knowing what you did is frustrating. Hope it doesn't reoccur.
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May 10, 2024 18:35
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That's just how it is with motorcycles. As soon as you fix one thing, something else pops up. I started out in mid-march with a simple goal: replace the carburetor boots and clean the gunk off the engine, and change the oil while i was at it. that has since led to work on the fuel pump the fuel lines the throttle cables the chain the chain guard the clutch perch the clutch lever the clutch cable the fairing mounts the taillight mounts the taillights the license plate mount and when i finally took it out for a ride yesterday, i discovered that i now need to work on the choke cables the brake light switches the temperature sensor the speedometer cable ? it's all part of the experience!!!!!!  
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May 10, 2024 19:35
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May 10, 2024 20:16
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Beve Stuscemi posted:Logistically yes, but for it to be truly KTM as gently caress there need to be like 3 separate water pumps involved, each with an impeller who’s hardness rating is next to room temperature butter on mohs hardness scale. I just had my GW at the shop for a fuel pump impeller recall, Honda may actually be heading to KTM-adjacent territory (sharing lovely parts suppliers)
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May 11, 2024 20:53
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I went out on the DRZ today. I got the temp warning light in pretty much exactly the same place as yesterday. It behaved the same too, went out with the high beam. I fixed it by rapping on the idiot light cluster with my fingers, then I carried on riding and it behaved itself until I got home. I guess I'll start looking for a replacement. I had a different issue though - the engine stalled abruptly for no apparent reason three or four times. All times except one it started again easily enough either by momentum or starter but one time it wouldn't crank. I exercised the kill switch some and flipped the heated grips to low setting (from high) and after that it never reoccurred and the bike ran like normal (i.e. too rich but good enough that I'm not tearing into the carb just yet). I'm pretty sure I know which of these two things might actually be related to the engine not cutting out anymore. Other than that it was great. My current favorite things is a twisty little gravel road in the middle of nowhere that's been recently raked so it's loose and slippery all over. I should probably lube the kill switch some and also delete the side stand switch. I've gotten into the questionable habit of killing the bike with the side stand when I want to park in gear and my hands are too busy to reach for the key but I could do it with the right thumb just as easily.
Invalido fucked around with this message at 21:00 on May 11, 2024 |
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May 11, 2024 20:57
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I'm starting to think I've been wrong about motorcycles. My previous two (honda CRB300R and current SV650) have been dead nuts reliable. The only issue between the two of them over a combined 20.000 km or so apart from regular maintenance and wear items was the engine kill switch on the honda that needed a squirt of the old WD to function properly. This DRZ seems to be a different beast. Ideally I want to trust it enough that I won't hesitate to take it motocamping overnight as far away from civilisation as I care to go but our relationship is not at that point yet. Anyway the idiot light assembly (part number 36380-29F00) seems to be difficult to source in Europe for a price I'm willing to pay so it's staying intermittently dysfunctional for the time being. Maybe something shows up for lets say sub €100 including shipping and I might buy a replacement.
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May 12, 2024 10:44
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That sounds like a bad earth to me
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May 12, 2024 12:12
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Shelvocke posted:That sounds like a bad earth to me Intermittent electrical problems in a vibrating environment has all the potential for frustration. Invalido fucked around with this message at 13:26 on May 12, 2024 |
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May 12, 2024 13:19
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You definitely have some wiring fuckery going on. A DRZ is definitely a “ride it from NY to LA with no worries” kind of bike. Hopefully it’s just one thing in the wiring that’s messing things up
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May 12, 2024 14:34
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Two things. Suzuki electrics are poo poo garbage. Clean every ground, junction, and connection. You can actually get the 8 pin cluster connector as a knockoff on amazon. DRZs thrive on abuse and neglect. On the stock scooter engine the fan won't cycle much unless you're riding Johnson Valley in August, if you're worried wire an inline switch or whatever in with the thermoswitch. Mine would almost like clockwork overheat and kill a HG every summer when the suzuki thing would happen and the fan wouldn't work. But that bike wasn't stock and made a fair bit more heat and noise than the normal scoot.
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May 12, 2024 16:51
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Beve Stuscemi posted:You definitely have some wiring fuckery going on. A DRZ is definitely a “ride it from NY to LA with no worries” kind of bike. cursedshitbox posted:Two things. I should probably start by replacing the battery since I've been meaning to anyway, I have no idea how old it is and I suspect it's going bad. It cranks a bit weak IMO. Weak like sometimes the starter can't overcome compression (which could absolutely be ground related) and resting voltage is a bit low (which shouldn't be related). Making or buying a test light that actually draws current might be useful I guess, I've always just used a multimeter but some forum post I read just now looking for clues made a pretty good case for using one. But yeah, looking over all the connections thoroughly is probably a really good idea. I'm pretty sure that I noticed the clock was way off when I thought I was overheating the first time, which was before I removed the instrument cluster which would mess the clock up for sure. If I'm not mistaken that would point to a general ground fault too. The main ground cable going from battery negative to the engine case seems like a good a place to start. I won't have any opportunity to work on this until next weekend sadly.
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May 12, 2024 18:13
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Invalido posted:I'm thinking about putting the larger Clarke brand plastic fuel tank that came with the bike on the DRZ. I'm seeing about 45mpg or 5l/100km fuel economy. Maybe I'm running rich and it should be better, maybe it's within normal range, not sure. I happened to find some of my old notes from my DRZ, it was an SM with a stock carb. 
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May 12, 2024 22:41
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Nidhg00670000 posted:old notes Awesome, big thanks! I only have two fill ups to compare with yet but I'm not hitting those numbers, more like 5.45l/100 both times. Apples to oranges and all but all signs point to rich. I don't want to but it's time to accept that I own a carbed bike now, the carb needs to come apart for a clean and a look so I can hopefully see what jets are in the thing and buy smaller ones. There are cheap kits with all the jets from china but I very much think OEM is the way to go here and I'm not buying all of those. Step one in the carb saga is probably to pull the spark plug and see how that looks though. But later, electrical issues first. I ordered a battery, hopefully it arrives before the weekend.
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May 13, 2024 05:33
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So I've been reading the Mikuni manual. Needle jets and jet needles and pilot jets and whatever else. The instructions on how to tune seem straightforward enough, but a thought came to me: To get any meaningful carb access the fuel tank needs to come off. Would it be a bad idea for some reason to run with a different temporary little fuel tank to get easier carb access while experimenting with jettings and settings? I'm thinking of a generic 1 liter small engine tank or similar strapped to somewhere convenient plus a simple fuel valve, or something along those lines. The seat wouldn't be quite as firmly affixed to the bike but with the rear bolts in place it should be solid enough for short test rides I bet. The radiator air scoops wouldn't be able to mount to anything either, but I'm hoping it won't be a problem for short runs in my part of the world where it rarely gets very hot.
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May 15, 2024 19:42
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Yeah, bike shops should have a little half-gallon tank for carb tuning. It has a hook to hang from a grip, and a nipple on bottom for fuel line. https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0032 Edit: and a household box fan pointed at the engine will keep it cool if you’re running it for more than a minute. Just need some air movement to break the heat up. Ulf fucked around with this message at 19:55 on May 15, 2024 |
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May 15, 2024 19:51
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Since I don't have a dyno I'll have to do test runs and do timed consistent pulls over a measured distance to measure acceleration in order to do things by the book (e: and since I don't know anything about carbs doing it by the book seems like the way to go), among other things, so any tuning fuel system needs to be rideable. I'm thinking more along the lines of something like this I guess a PET bottle with a hose barb in the cap or just about anything would work, but it seems I don't have to reinvent the wheel here. Invalido fucked around with this message at 20:17 on May 15, 2024 |
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May 15, 2024 20:13
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You mean to tell me you have to actually load the engine to tune the carbs?
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May 15, 2024 20:19
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If you're actually changing stuff then definitely If you're just doing standard stuff it's totally unnecessary, just replace everything stock for stock with standard settings, do your pilot and idle and that's it
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May 15, 2024 20:44
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From the Mikuni manual regarding the jet needle circlip position: "On the other hand, if acceleration is crisp but the engine hesitates or staggers when the throttle is suddenly shut down from 3/4 to 1/2 throttle, the mixture is too rich. Lower the needle one notch and repeat the test. The needle position will be correct when acceleration is crisp at mid RPM yet the engine does not load up during throttle shut down." ("the test" in this case refers to a pull in top gear at partial throttle so as to test the needle metering rather than pilot or main jets) - I'm not sure I understand the "hesitates or staggers" or "load up" parts here. I guess the RPM isn't dropping off very smoothly, if that's the goal. There's plenty of decel popping though so it's kind of hard to hear what the engine actually sounds like. As for "loading up" this manual speaks about harleys specifically rather than modest displacement Suzukis - is it engine braking they're talking about? manual linky: https://procycle.us/sites/default/files/files/TM40_manual.pdf
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May 16, 2024 10:42
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Looking to pull my wheels and update the TPM sensors in the next month or so. I've never done a lick of work with tires before, always opting to hand them off to a shop. All the tools to do this work are foreign to me so I've got a few basic questions. I don't think I need anything fancy, I also don't think I need to pull the tire entirely just to change the sensor at the valve stem, so I *think* I should be fine with just a pair of tire irons and maybe rim protectors to keep from scratching the aluminum. I have no idea what to look for in qualities on either, so I don't know if I'm buying something useful or something cheap and useless that will make the job more difficult. Any suggestions on what I look for in a tire iron that makes it more useful than just a flat piece of metal to wedge up rubber? If you guys have good brand suggestions i'm all ears, but I'd love to know why they're good in the spirit of "teach a man to fish". Do I need a separate bead breaker? If so, same question.
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May 16, 2024 15:12
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I've never worked on moto tires but I've done more than a few car tires with limited tools. Not mounted on rims I was terrified to scratch though. I don't know anything about rim protectors or suitable tire irons, but I understand that process is very frustrating on motos from what people say. As for breaking beads (and I assume here that they are similar between cars and motos because why shouldn't they be) there's more than one way to skin that particular cat. It's all about applying enough force to the sidewall of the tire as close to the rim as possible. I've done this with various hydraulic and mechanical jacks on wheels laying on the ground or floor, with or without something propping things up on the underside, with an overhead point to push against via a piece of wood or something that has been a door opening, a convenient low horizontal limb on a cherry tree and a C-shaped scrap iron thing made for the purpose to bring to race tracks lacking suitable cherry trees (no wood extension required). I've used the arm of a two post lift to push down with. A few years ago I bought a ridiculously large bench vise that can fit a car tire and will easily squeeze the bead off with very little fuss, so that's my favorite method now. Invalido fucked around with this message at 16:09 on May 16, 2024 |
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May 16, 2024 16:06
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Invalido posted:From the Mikuni manual regarding the jet needle circlip position: "On the other hand, if acceleration is crisp but the engine hesitates or staggers when the throttle is suddenly shut down from 3/4 to 1/2 throttle, the mixture is too rich. Lower the needle one notch and repeat the test. The needle position will be correct when acceleration is crisp at mid RPM yet the engine does not load up during throttle shut down." ("the test" in this case refers to a pull in top gear at partial throttle so as to test the needle metering rather than pilot or main jets) It's basically talking about reducing (but not shutting) the throttle leading to the engine effectively stalling momentarily, so instead of just reducing power it'll feel like you've totally shut the throttle. Imo that's not really very relevant to what you're doing, if you're just dealing with an aftermarket pipe all you need to do is, at most, move the needle up half a step from stock. You can judge whether that's worse or better by just seeing how it behaves at partial throttle and using trial and error. That manual is basically for tuning something from scratch which you aren't doing afaik.
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May 16, 2024 19:21
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Problem is it isn't the stock carb for the bike AFAIK so what i'm dealing with is PO fuckery pretty much. I have no way of knowing if this bike ever ran quite right with this mikuni carb but I suspect not. The idle is serviceable but seems rich, mid range seems rich too. WOT seems fine I guess, though I have used it embarrassingly little so far. Anyways the book says to do idle screw and if needed pilot air and fuel jets first, then needle position (and possible the associated jet or even needle taper) and main jet last and accelerator pump even more last, so that's what I'll do, should it come to that. Which I think it will.
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May 16, 2024 20:21
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I can't remember what a stock SM has but I know those have a CV carb instead of a flat slide, have you looked to see if it's the same model? Then you could just copy stock SM settings. If it's a completely random carb then it's almost certainly going to have the wrong needle profile.
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May 16, 2024 20:39
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Not unlikely. Seems like I really need to take it apart and determine what is in there, until I do its all speculation. The parts are readily available and not very expensive, but a known good starting point for what to buy and install would be a huge help. edit: there are at least a few vendors who sell the Mikuni TM40-6 as a kit for fitting on a DRZ400, with pre-installed jets and needles they claim are suitable. None of them that I've seen so far state what these are exactly. The best I've found so far is a post on thumpertalk: quote:
It's not great but it's something. I guess I could email carb sellers and explain my predicament and see what they say if I can't find the info readily available. It's also entirely possible that PO bought the carb from such a vendor and things aren't terribly far off from what they should be. We shall see. Invalido fucked around with this message at 21:29 on May 16, 2024 |
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May 16, 2024 21:01
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Beve Stuscemi posted:So here’s an interesting one. I was out on the Goldwing yesterday on the freeway and noticed the temp gauge was up in the red. It was slowly oscillating between red and just below red but it was hot. This seems to have just been low coolant? Filling it up brought the bike back to normal temps. I just did 30 miles on the freeway, in ambient temps above where it was when I was having the issue, and the temp never budged above a quarter of the gauge Now the real question is where did the coolant go? I also did an oil change while troubleshooting this and there was no coolant in the oil, nor is it leaking any coolant onto my garage floor 
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May 17, 2024 18:01
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Beve Stuscemi posted:This seems to have just been low coolant? Filling it up brought the bike back to normal temps. I just did 30 miles on the freeway, in ambient temps above where it was when I was having the issue, and the temp never budged above a quarter of the gauge I discovered a similar problem with my DL650. Running hot when it shouldn't have. The leak wound up being deep between the cylinders where an O ring on the coolant line had degraded, so the coolant was just boiling off before it could reach the ground. Thankfully my wife's hands were small enough to reach in there and help fix it.
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May 18, 2024 14:51
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Scam Likely posted:The leak wound up being deep between the cylinders where an O ring on the coolant line had degraded, so the coolant was just boiling off before it could reach the ground.  a steam engine
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May 18, 2024 20:01
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I’ve had my 2017 Harley Roadster up for sale for a couple months with very few bites. I think the main problem is that there’s a lien on it since I still owe money, but I’m also considering putting it back as close to stock as possible. I had Harley install mini-apes and heated grips so I could use it for light touring. How big of a job will it be for me to swap back to the stock bars? I’d likely leave the heated grips on for simplicity’s sake and so I don’t have to really re-do any wiring at all - keep everything 1:1. I have the stock seat, so I can get it basically back to stock. The only other non-stock items are the flyscreen I increasingly hate, crash bars that come off in 5 minutes, and the SW-Motech pannier racks they can take off their goddamn selves. Is this something I can reasonably do over a few evenings or a weekend? Is it worth my time to do it? Pics for current state.   
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May 20, 2024 01:26
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Weird timing, I just spent a day to return my Monkey back to stock so I can sell it. My heat pump is out and I need to raise some cash for the replacement. It's never been so stock the whole time I've owned it.
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May 20, 2024 01:42
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Geekboy posted:2017 Harley Roadster I’d leave it if it were me, probably 95% of Harleys for sale have non-stock parts on them and 99% of your potential buyers are planning on cUsToMiZinG the bike to their liking anyways. The lien is far more likely to turn away a potential buyer than your non-stock HD parts.
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May 20, 2024 10:31
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Thank you for confirming that and saving me a lot of work. I’m working on clearing the lien in creative ways, if I can. I’ve paid it down quite a bit and owe less than it’s “worth” but more than average trade-in value. If I wanted to go buy a $40K Harley, I’m sure they’d give me an excellent trade-in offer but lol lmao
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May 21, 2024 19:18
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Eugh, it's been three days of trying to sell my Monkey and I'm sick of it already. Summary of interactions: Overly insulting offer #1 Over enthusiastic potential buyer who just can't get his poo poo sorted out and/or mind made up. Insulting offer #2
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May 21, 2024 19:28
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Geekboy posted:I’ve had my 2017 Harley Roadster up for sale for a couple months with very few bites. I think the main problem is that there’s a lien on it since I still owe money, but I’m also considering putting it back as close to stock as possible. Earlier in my motorcycle career I bought/sold a bike or two every year for 10-ish years (it was a sickness). In general the rule is don't spend any money on the bike, your time/money efforts are likely a waste, sell it as-is. The exception here is if it's straightforward and inexpensive to turn a non-running bike into a running bike. Also, in my experience at least, "the story" has as much to do with the condition, mileage, and which gadgets have been added to the bike. E.g. you bought it for <reason> (touring, racing, etc) from <dude> (who was a mechanic and took good care of it) and you like <aspects> but because <reason> (the footpegs are in the wrong place for a guy your height) you've come to realize that it's just not the bike for you (without making major modifications), so you're looking for alternatives like <examples>, which is why you're selling it this one. The lien is a tough one, you're selling something you don't even own. A buyer now has to jump through a bunch of hoops to buy it from both you and the bank, and why would they do that if there are comparables without this complication. I've owned a few Sportsters from different eras ('13, '15, '05), just curious, why don't you like your Roadster? TotalLossBrain posted:Eugh, it's been three days of trying to sell my Monkey and I'm sick of it already. My go to when selling is just "When do you want to come take a look at the bike?" and if they can't answer that question, ignore them, they're not interested enough. My go to when buying is "How long have you owned it?" and the shorter the time period, the bigger the red flag. If someone buys a bike and immediately wants to unload it, something's wrong. epswing fucked around with this message at 22:08 on May 21, 2024 |
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May 21, 2024 20:01
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