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Yeah, Gen 1 MS3 with 128k miles.Larrymer posted:So the A/C compressor seized and that's why it's not starting? Correct, it's sitting at a dealer since I was originally worried that the VVT issue had become something super serious - but that is still definitely on the to do list. I told them to do what's needed to get the car running again and I'll take on the rest with my mechanic. One other thing that does stand out to me is the core support/radiator since the passenger mount sheared off the car last year. Not surprising that did damage to the radiator. I had a feeling a big chunk of that list list was just any possible maintenance thing since it's an old car.
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Dec 18, 2017 21:01
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IOwnCalculus posted:Are they asking to replace the engine covers on item T? The gently caress? air- posted:One other thing that does stand out to me is the core support/radiator since the passenger mount sheared off the car last year. Not surprising that did damage to the radiator. I had a feeling a big chunk of that list list was just any possible maintenance thing since it's an old car. Its possible the two are connected, as the PS mount connects to the timing covers on the 2.3 MZR. If they actually need to be replaced is something else entirely but they might have spotted some damage to the covers and are taking a "everything but the kitchen sink" approach.
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Dec 18, 2017 21:20
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Found a video of the exact noise my car was making right when starting up: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d_QuhECEhyM Compare that with VVT: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yOacH2zo1h8
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Dec 19, 2017 02:59
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Are either of these issues that I need to get fixed? I think both were broken during repairs/repainting. The first is the cover around the hatch button, the second in a recess/hole in the driver-side rear door jamb. I’d think the first might be more important to keeping dust and crap out of the hatch release button and mechanism, but I wasn’t sure.  
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Dec 20, 2017 22:53
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air- posted:Found a video of the exact noise my car was making right when starting up: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d_QuhECEhyM yeah that second one is basically what my MS3 sounds like nowadays 
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Dec 21, 2017 00:11
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I'm the neglectful owner that only just realized my passenger side motor mount blew out. I've probably been driving on it for a few thousand miles. I heard some clunking but I thought it was worn out suspension bushings or struts getting near service time since I have about 77k miles. Did I risk much damage or just ride comfort? Also what's the recommended replacement? Should I go ahead and do the rear and driver side motor mounts at the same time? The PO said he had done something like corksport rear mm inserts but I never confirmed it. I bought the car with about 11k miles.  
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Dec 23, 2017 19:08
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You might want to look at the AC compressor too. The sheared bolt on the passenger side motor mount for my car was probably one factor on loving up the AC compressor and as Mazda said, the radiator core support is also damaged (gonna double check that with another mechanic). As for mounts, I picked this up for the rear, which is actually for an Electric Focus, but it fits: CM5Z-6068-A Gotta grab this bolt too: W500545-S900 More info here: https://www.reddit.com/r/mazda3/comments/4bymrj/just_installed_an_electric_focus_rear_motor_mount/ Totally agree with the one post that mentions the E-Focus mount is a slightly stiffer mount than the stock one, but nowhere as rough as the performance oriented aftermarket rear motor mounts. I still have my AWR 88 duro and that was way worse on nvh. e: IIRC you are in Austin too, you are welcome to take my car out for a spin if you want to try before you buy. air- fucked around with this message at 20:42 on Dec 23, 2017 |
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Dec 23, 2017 20:36
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Modern engine mounts, even when the rubber has totally failed, should still keep the engine close enough to where it belongs that there shouldn't be any damage or dangerous behavior. Unlike, say, the clamshell mounts on my C10, where when they fail, the whole thing can flop all over the drat place. When my upper passenger mount died, I replaced it and the rear mount. I left the transmission mount alone.
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Dec 23, 2017 20:41
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What's all that sprayed on yellow stuff?
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Dec 23, 2017 20:52
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air- posted:You might want to look at the AC compressor too. The sheared bolt on the passenger side motor mount for my car was probably one factor on loving up the AC compressor and as Mazda said, the radiator core support is also damaged (gonna double check that with another mechanic). Yeah I'm in Austin. I'll do some reading about this option first. Thanks! Are the aftermarket motor mounts really that noisy/bad with respect to NVH? As for the yellow goop. Apparently most or motor mounts are filled with some kind of grease or oil.
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Dec 23, 2017 22:44
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MetaJew posted:Are the aftermarket motor mounts really that noisy/bad with respect to NVH? Oh yeah, you can easily tell when someone has replaced a rear mount on the MS3. All the aftermarket ones vibrate while idle. The Damond ones reportedly do the best on better performance and minimizing nvh. I have a friend with JBR all around and riding his car feels like being on a massage chair.
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Dec 23, 2017 23:14
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MetaJew posted:As for the yellow goop. Apparently most or motor mounts are filled with some kind of grease or oil. Ah yes, liquid filled engine mounts. I bucket that in with "great idea but usually poor execution." Brings back bad memories of my gen 1 CTS-V. It was the only way to get a Cadillac-esque ride/NVH with a big honkin' V8. Too bad they were right by the headers, so the rubber failed in short order and leaked that poo poo everywhere. 
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Dec 24, 2017 00:43
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Once you dudes get your cars fixed we should have a beer and bbq and Mazda meet up. 
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Dec 24, 2017 01:38
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MetaJew posted:As for the yellow goop. Apparently most or motor mounts are filled with some kind of grease or oil. Yup, mine blew that poo poo all over when it went too. edit: Found my old post here. IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 01:55 on Dec 24, 2017 |
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Dec 24, 2017 01:52
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air- posted:Oh yeah, you can easily tell when someone has replaced a rear mount on the MS3. All the aftermarket ones vibrate while idle. The Damond ones reportedly do the best on better performance and minimizing nvh. I have a friend with JBR all around and riding his car feels like being on a massage chair. So just going for the Damond pmm and rmm might lead to some buyer's remorse? :/ Do most people just replace the pmm with an oem model?
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Dec 24, 2017 01:53
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I went with the JBR 70 durometer and it was very noticeable. Not *bad* necessarily, but there's no question about it being a big shift in NVH.
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Dec 24, 2017 01:56
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MC Hawking posted:Once you dudes get your cars fixed we should have a beer and bbq and Mazda meet up. Got it back the other day and it's running great. Oh and a  moment for me when the dealer pointed out something I didn't think about : my car has a Gen2 engine (I hydrolocked in 2012), meaning the VVT problem shouldn't be worrisome for me. MetaJew posted:So just going for the Damond pmm and rmm might lead to some buyer's remorse? :/ Everything will feel rougher compared to oem, hate to say it :/
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Dec 24, 2017 02:37
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OK so my ('08 MS3) PMM also gave out and sprayed yellow goo all over everything. I'd like to replace the mounts but I'm worried about NVH, I definitely want this car to be family friendly. It seems from the discussions that even the Damond Motorsports one is quite harsh. Does the PMM affect NVH much compared to the RMM? Any recommendations for NVH-friendly mounts? It seems people focus on replacing the PMM and the RMM - does the transmission mount not matter as much? Another question. I recently replaced the shocks on this MS3 and now the rear wheels produce a soft clunking chatter when going over any bump whatsoever. The shop guys said they looked into it at length, but couldn't locate the source of the noise. Any ideas on what to do? I've read that this could be sway bar bushings or end links, but I'm not sure how to diagnose. (I'll probably take it back to the shop after the holidays.) azazello fucked around with this message at 03:46 on Dec 24, 2017 |
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Dec 24, 2017 02:52
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Make sure those idiots tightened everything down, especially the sway bar end links. Those have a nasty tendency to back out if they aren't gorilla-ed on.
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Dec 24, 2017 03:32
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Mine backed out once before I'd even done anything to the suspension. They could be loose, or they could be worn out, or possibly both.
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Dec 24, 2017 03:47
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Tighten that poo poo down and if that doesn't help, MOOG endlinks cleared out my rear clunking.
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Dec 24, 2017 04:28
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Thanks, will work on that. The Damond motor mount kit is $600  The JBR is $470 but people seem to have more NVH concerns.I could use a recommendation for something less pricey...
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Dec 24, 2017 04:40
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Scroll a few posts up for motor mount chat. E-Focus is a kickass one for comfort/daily driver application.
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Dec 24, 2017 04:43
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Correct me if I'm wrong but the e-focus motor mount poster on Reddit was only talking about the RMM,and not the PMM.
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Dec 24, 2017 05:41
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Found this nice motor mount resource on mazdaspeedforums: http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f10/motor-mount-thread-100696/index8.html#post2800159 Still not sure what to do... get an OEM PMM and an E-Focus RMM? Damond PMM and RMM? 
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Dec 24, 2017 21:08
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I'm curious about the CP-E PMM and RMM since they claim that their rubber bushings g is better for NVH than the urethane used by other companies, but both parts are quite a bit more expensive than Damond or JBR.
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Dec 24, 2017 21:31
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In my experience the RMM makes the biggest individual difference of the three. I'd get the e-Focus mount and a factory passenger side and see how you like it. My brother has an '08 MS3 with a full set of aftermarket mounts (can't recall whose) and the vibration can be a bit much, especially at idle and lower in the powerband. I'd probably hate it in a daily driven car.
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Dec 25, 2017 02:11
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I have Corksport RMM with stock PMM and it's pretty livable. No vibes at idle.
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Dec 25, 2017 02:41
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I went ahead and ordered a Damond PMM and a CP-E xFlex stage 2 RMM.  Still not sure if that's the right choice, and I guess it won't ship until January so I could cancel if I change my mind. Will the different mounts interact poorly? Will the DM PMM rattle my brains out? 
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Dec 25, 2017 20:42
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If you can, it'd be cool to see how just swapping the pmm, without doing the RMM, affects ride quality and NVH. I think I'm just going to pick up an OEM pmm for now so that I'm not driving around on a busted motor mount. I'll try to inspect the RMM and see what shape it's in too. I'm not sure how a stock rmm with the Cusco insert compares to one of the aftermarket ones.
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Dec 25, 2017 21:40
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I drove around a few dozen miles today, and I'm really impressed with these Koni FSD dampers I got installed (the weird rubber bushings clunking notwithstanding). I just have a ton more confidence in the suspension now. I don't fear that hitting a series of potholes might set off an explosion in the wheel wells. The car feels more sprung yet better able to plant its tires. I'm very happy with the balance of comfort vs. control now. Can't wait to see how the engine mounts affect it.
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Dec 26, 2017 02:07
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Did you retain the stock springs?
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Dec 26, 2017 03:14
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Kept the stock springs, yes.
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Dec 26, 2017 03:23
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Co-sign on Koni FSD's feeling great with stock springs for daily driving 
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Dec 26, 2017 18:11
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Welp, my local dealer won't budge on the price for the PMM. They all want MSRP for the mount, $304.38. I've found some online dealers, and edge auto with prices around $230-250. But I can't get a good picture of availability or delivery time. Do y'all have a preferred online parts site? I guess since I mostly have the week off from work it might just be wise to eat the cost and deal with it. MetaJew fucked around with this message at 21:33 on Dec 26, 2017 |
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Dec 26, 2017 21:22
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I used mazda-parts.com six years ago, they had a slightly better price on the throttle body than anyone else I could find.
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Dec 26, 2017 21:55
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I have Corksport adjustable shocks and Cobb springs, and while it looks nice it's too low and harsh for the cratered streets of Oakland. Is there anything maybe just a touch lower and touch firmer than stock springs? Or would going back to stock springs be my best option?
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Dec 26, 2017 22:17
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I take back what I said. In person they offered me the part at wholesale. I'd still like to hear how the aftermarket pmm works out, but at least I can get this swapped out in the next day or two.
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Dec 26, 2017 23:01
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While I wait for the engine mounts, I fixed up two cosmetic things going on with this MS3: - The gear shift knob cover had come off. I wanted to order a Mustang GT350 gear knob which looks nice https://www.americanmuscle.com/ford-gt350-replacement-shift-knob-1516.html, but was told that I'm not spending $80 on a gear knob. Some prying and cleaning and gluegunning ensued, and it looks like new! - Some rear end in a top hat dented my rear left quarter panel. The guys at the shop said I could go to a body shop, or (not recommended) use a plunger with some hot water to pop the panel back out. I was skeptical but yes, 90% of the dent is gone after pulling on it with the plunger. 
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Dec 27, 2017 17:38
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Like...a toilet plunger?
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Dec 27, 2017 18:24
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