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blugu64 posted:Ram mounts take 20seconds to remove and unplug. They've got sticker shock but well worth it. The nice thing about RAM mounts is the modular nature, so yeah, it's a little on the high side to start, but you can just buy the parts you need for new equipment and it's really cheap. But RAM mounts are still worth every penny, in my opinion.
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Feb 11, 2010 16:32
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| # ? Jun 5, 2024 12:25 |
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It's snowing and I thought it'd be fun to putt around on the KLR, but when I try to start it, the battery lasts barely long enough to get it started once, but I accidentally rev it too much and kill it. Battery goes almost instantly from a clicking starter to plain flat with not even a neutral light. Is this cold weather or is my battery hosed? I tried jump starting from a car with no luck, but that's probably more to do with no really knowing what I'm doing. ps battery would last weeks at a time prior to this and still turn on just fine
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Feb 11, 2010 20:18
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hayden. posted:Pretty sure I got it right, using a torque wrench. I'll just be more careful when I go adjust it again tomorrow. Thanks guys. Yeah, axle was too loose. Bikes with brakes on top of the swingarm will try to push the axle backwards. Bikes with brakes under the arm will pull it forwards.
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Feb 11, 2010 20:27
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Phat_Albert posted:Yeah, axle was too loose. Bikes with brakes on top of the swingarm will try to push the axle backwards. Bikes with brakes under the arm will pull it forwards. Won't the chain pull the rear wheel forward regardless of brake location?
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Feb 11, 2010 20:47
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Depends on what force is acting the hardest. Chances are a KLR cant accellerate as hard as the rear wheel can brake, so while the brake pushes the axle out, the chain might not be able to pull it back in. The outcome may be different on a 1000cc sportbike, for example.
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Feb 11, 2010 21:19
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My TW200's battery doesn't like the cold, if it's really cold for a few days and then there's a nice day to ride I almost always have to bump start it. Thing is, during those cold days, it was on a trickle charger. Probably just needs a new battery right?
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Feb 11, 2010 22:02
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hayden. posted:It's snowing and I thought it'd be fun to putt around on the KLR, but when I try to start it, the battery lasts barely long enough to get it started once, but I accidentally rev it too much and kill it. Battery goes almost instantly from a clicking starter to plain flat with not even a neutral light. Cold does do a number on batteries. To jump a bike, just put the positive cable on the positive terminal of the bike. Attach the negative to a ground somewhere, the frame, whatever. Don't turn the car on, and try and start the bike, it should fire right up. Then go ride it around, keeping the RPMs up, as bikes don't typically charge at low RPM. Personally, I'd pull the battery, put it on a trickle charger, and then go ride it tomorrow.
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Feb 11, 2010 22:19
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Hey gang. Looking to do two things and wondering what people have done in the past. First off I have a modified 86 katana that since all the fairings are long gone it has the bar weights replaced with a pair of drop mirrors. The mirror connectors are no where near as heavy as normal bar weights and allow for some palm numbing vibration. I have filled the bars with lead shot with some improvement but I am looking for more. I have heard of grip puppies and the like; what are your reviews? perhaps other solutions? Secondly I have recently upgraded the power in my bike and have discovered that the old fairings added some stability to the front forks. This being gone has created some potential for torquing or twisting at heavy acceleration. I am thinking to make one out of 13mm (~.5") aluminum at work. Potentially a cross member with a span ending in fork width semi-circles and a pair of semi-circle clamps with threaded holes to screw it all together. 
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Feb 12, 2010 05:41
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How important is dealer servicing? I see a lot of talk about having dealer service records and what not... I changed my own oil at 500 miles and plan to change it again pretty soon. I feel pretty comfortable following directions and have the service manual for my bike. Am I liable to eff something up if I have limited mechanical experience? Just wondering people's general thoughts on this.
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Feb 12, 2010 05:44
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It's probably not a big deal. I would just recommend keeping a log of maintenance along with receipts for oil and such. Dealer servicing can help your case should a major warranty repair come and can give you a small advantage in resale, but that's about it.
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Feb 12, 2010 06:08
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shipwrek posted:Hey gang. Looking to do two things and wondering what people have done in the past. First off I have a modified 86 katana that since all the fairings are long gone it has the bar weights replaced with a pair of drop mirrors. The mirror connectors are no where near as heavy as normal bar weights and allow for some palm numbing vibration. I have filled the bars with lead shot with some improvement but I am looking for more. I have heard of grip puppies and the like; what are your reviews? perhaps other solutions? You can try fatter grips, on the Z1000 we had some fatter ones that really insulated you from vibration. You can also fill them with sand. As to the fork brace, check out Superbrace. ohwander, you'll be fine. Just don't wrench the gently caress out of your drain plug when you tighten it down. It should be tight, but don't wrench the jesus out of it.
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Feb 12, 2010 06:30
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shipwrek posted:what are your reviews? perhaps other solutions? When's the last time you synced your carbs?
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Feb 12, 2010 14:48
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^^woops, missed that post but there you goshipwrek posted:Hey gang. As Z3n said, there's plenty to choose from in the fork brace department. As for vibrations, they shouldn't be all that bad on that motor, perhaps something is out of tune. I rode for a few months with one bar end missing, I couldn't really tell the difference between the grips. Are your carbs synced? I also had a weak spark on one cylinder which shouldn't be possible according to collective experience, since there are two plugs pr coil. But it did and one weak coil caused weak spark on one cylinder and reduced power / increased vibration. Get a multimeter and measure resistance between spark plug caps 1-4 and 2-3, in the 10k ohm range. The exact value isn't that important, but they should be very close to eachother.
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Feb 12, 2010 16:03
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laymil posted:When's the last time you synced your carbs? Just did a jet kit, sync and dyno this winter but haven't been out for any extended runs yet so hopefully you're right!
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Feb 12, 2010 16:48
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Phat_Albert posted:Chances are a KLR cant accellerate as hard as the rear wheel can brake, I own a KLR and this competition is like a race between 2 fat kids
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Feb 13, 2010 03:01
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So when would be the optimal time to sell my bike? Im going to grad school in the fall and probably have to let it go :[ Ive got it registered through June and insurance paid up through the end of May I think... so I'm thinking around then. I figure the start of riding season is a good time, right?
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Feb 13, 2010 04:22
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Start of the season is the best time, but there's nothing to lose by listing it as soon as possible.
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Feb 13, 2010 04:56
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I love old honda bikes. Something about the lines really appeal to me. Anyway, I am thinking about offering the guy $200 for this: "1981 Honda CM400 with just over 4000 miles. My brother in-law got this bike over a year ago and brought it to my house. He has not touched it since he got it and now needs to sell it. At first it did not run, but I cleaned the carbs and got it to run. There is no chain so I did not drive it. After I got it to run I show my brother in-law that it would run and I have not touched it since. What it needs--- battery, chain, maybe some tires due to dry rotting, seat is torn, title= you can get one, but he started the process just he never finished the process---I will give you more info about this. This is all I know it may, it might need more. MAKE AN OFFER, EITHER CASH OR TRADE THIS BIKE WOULD BE BEST FOR PARTS, BUT COULD BE FIXED UP WITH SOME WORK. " He had posted it for 400 a few times and apparently nobody wanted to work on it. The plus side is that some of the parts are interchangable with my 82 cb450t. Thoughts?
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Feb 13, 2010 14:35
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Shempt_The_Mighty posted:I love old honda bikes. Something about the lines really appeal to me. Anyway, I am thinking about offering the guy $200 for this: I have one of those. The version with wire wheels has drum brakes that are really poor, no matter what you do with them, unless maybe you could find a super soft race compound shoe. If it has comstars, then you get the disc brakes in the front, still the awful drum in the rear. Also, that bike came with the piston actuated CV carbs which tolerate no vacumm leaks of any kind and still run lean, but I have a fix for that which helps off idle and midrange and makes the bike more pleasant to ride. If you have a decent process for recovering the title, I say go for it for $200. It'll be a $600 bike by the time you get a chain, tires, etc, but that's the game we play.
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Feb 13, 2010 18:47
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BlueBayou posted:So when would be the optimal time to sell my bike? Im going to grad school in the fall and probably have to let it go :[ Depends on the area in which you live, but yes. Start of riding season minus a month is a good time to start listing it. Bikes peak somewhere about start of riding season +2-3 weeks. Depends on how flexible you want to be on your price. As Z3n says, there's no reason you can't list it sooner if you want, though. Just keep in mind people will try harder to lowball you now, though. Doctor Zero fucked around with this message at 19:19 on Feb 13, 2010 |
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Feb 13, 2010 19:17
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I need to get a new front rotor for my 96 XJ600 SecaII. I was told to get an EBC branded one, but I'm not sure which to buy that would fit my bike. Are rotors universal or are they model specific? How would I go about finding one? EDIT - Also, while I'm asking, any req's on a brand of sprocket / chain to get too? They need replacing soon. ari.gato fucked around with this message at 23:02 on Feb 13, 2010 |
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Feb 13, 2010 22:48
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They are model specific, but I would honestly find a used stock rotor on ebay rather than go with a company like EBC, as you'll pay through the nose for a new rotor, for not much gain (unless you're racing it, then go crazy). I like RK chains, personally, and I'd go with steel sprockets, again, unless you're racing. I've run DID, RK, and a couple of other company's chains...the most important thing is that you get an o-ring/xo-ring chain, the rest is pretty much whatever.
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Feb 13, 2010 23:17
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I have a leaky back tire because of a dent in the rim, so I decided to put a tube in it. This is my first time taking the tire off at all and I have a few questions. The wheel is removed and the tire is half off - beads broken on both sides and one side is off the wheel completely. First time doing that so happy I got this far. The tire irons did some superficial damage to the rim - is this going to hurt my ability to seal a tubeless later? Maybe it doesn't matter because it doesn't seal anyway. But the drat valve stem! I finally figured out that I need a special tool to pull it?? The valve has no slots and it all fits in a rubber housing with no apparent notches on either inside or out. I believe I have a "Press-in Valve" style stem. Can I just go at this with pliers, destroy it, and throw it away? I'm putting a tube in and it has its own stem. drat it all. I need to have this fixed by Monday morning so I can do my 2 day camping trip down to a ghost town in CA.
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Feb 14, 2010 07:59
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Yeah, valve stems are just popped in. They have ribs that hold them in plus they are a tight fit to start with. You can chop off the part that is inside with a razor blade or something and the rest of it should fall right out.
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Feb 14, 2010 09:01
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welp, I'm boned. I cut out the stem and that all went fine. Trying to get the last section of the tire wrapped over the rim was a motherfucking bitch. I must have punctured the tube because it leaks. I must be doing something wrong.
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Feb 14, 2010 10:40
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Does one need to put rim tape on motorcycle wheels?
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Feb 14, 2010 14:54
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darknrgy posted:welp, I'm boned. I cut out the stem and that all went fine. Trying to get the last section of the tire wrapped over the rim was a motherfucking bitch. I must have punctured the tube because it leaks. I must be doing something wrong. Yeah, you are. Tire changing is a skill that takes practice, but I can drop a hint or two that I've learned over the years. Once I break a bead, I can change tube or tureless tires in half an hour, or less, depends on the rim/tire combo, some are suckier than others . Hint 1-lube and lots of it. You can buy designated tire lube, but I use whatever ghetto brand of KY I can find at the local store. Lube the tire up and the first side will slip on without the use of tools. Hint 2-modern bikes use a "drop center" rim. The middle of the rim is lower than the beads. The trick is to work the tire bead down into that drop center while wrestling it onto the rim, which gives you the extra room you need. Spend less time trying to work the tire over the rim and more time working the tire into the drop center. The room is there but you have to work smarter, not harder. Hint 3-tubes need to be slightly inflated. Just enough air to hold its shape.
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Feb 14, 2010 18:00
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Thanks Gnomad! I had figured out the inside-of-the-rim thing but by then it was too late. And, I wasn't using any lube. Some dude on youtube uses diluted dish soap. Anyway, a good learning experience.
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Feb 14, 2010 22:28
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I came to a pretty quick stop today. I was in 3rd or 2nd, pulled in the clutch and then hit the brakes. After that, I couldn't get into first (or neutral for that matter). I tried to ride away in 2nd but I stalled the bike. I restarted it and was able to get into first, and I didn't re-experience the problem. So what's the deal? Is this pretty common? A quick Google search says that sometimes, when you aren't in first before you stop, it can be kinda hard to shift into first at that point and you need to rev the bike a bit to get it to fall into first. Is this true? Is this a common problem?
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Feb 15, 2010 02:33
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It's pretty common. Something to do with how motorcycle transmissions work. There's a couple ways to drop it: move the bike back and forth while loading the shifter, or just let off the clutch slightly while loading it.
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Feb 15, 2010 02:38
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Motorcycle transmissions have to be moving to shift. Yes, you can go from neutral to first at a stop, but anything else is basically pure luck if you're stopped. Some transmissions shift better stopped than others, but in general, if you arent moving, it aint shifting. What you experienced is normal.
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Feb 15, 2010 05:29
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Quick question, need a windshield for my all black GSXR. Clear or light smoke? I'm leaning to light smoke, but I can't decide! Light smoke https://wi.somethingawful.com/74/74674bf1ced04d2b8a48f606ddb4343d613b8c52.jpg Clear https://wi.somethingawful.com/7c/7cf93ddfbcebc737a5bbb3ddd2cf3fcec306418d.jpg
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Feb 15, 2010 05:33
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Phat_Albert posted:Motorcycle transmissions have to be moving to shift. Yes, you can go from neutral to first at a stop, but anything else is basically pure luck if you're stopped. Some transmissions shift better stopped than others, but in general, if you arent moving, it aint shifting. yeah sometimes i get stuck in neutral at a light, so I have to let out the clutch, rev it, and then give it another go edit: smoooooooke smoooooke
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Feb 15, 2010 05:45
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MrZig posted:Quick question, need a windshield for my all black GSXR. Dark smoke, you never look through the drat thing anyways. (Light smoke is decent too).
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Feb 15, 2010 07:47
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I replaced my front pads with EBCs a few days ago, and I've been noticing a speed-related ticking noise from my front wheel since. I've checked, there's nothing hitting the spokes (it seriously sounds a lot like a card in the spokes, though). I checked the brake assembly and everything appears correctly assembled. Before I take off in the morning, I'm going to quickly open it up, tighten everything down, and see if it makes a difference. Is there anything specific I should look for? It seems to respond alternatively better or worse under braking - sometimes it gets louder as you get hard on them, sometimes it goes away until you get off. Braking performance seems fine, though. (2009 DR650SE)
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Feb 15, 2010 09:25
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Make sure the pads are seated correctly/in correctly. Also check your speedo cable/hub, if one runs to the front. Edit: Also check for side to side play in the front wheel. Z3n fucked around with this message at 19:58 on Feb 15, 2010 |
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Feb 15, 2010 19:46
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Stupid Question time: Do brake pads "go bad?" We finally started pulling apart the Virago, and the front pads have plenty of meat left on them. They should be fine, right? The backing looks a little rusty, but the disc is spotless and the rest of the caliper looks ok too. I'll still be taking them off and cleaning them / bleeding the lines either way. The rear is drum so I dunno 'bout that yet. Also hooray for a spotless gas tank! I'm so relieved I don't have to go through what I did with the Ninja a second time.  Next weekend: Probably carbs/plugs/oil so we can see how it runs.
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Feb 15, 2010 21:29
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sirbeefalot posted:Stupid Question time: I cant say if they go bad per se, but they do get glazed over from brake riders.
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Feb 15, 2010 21:31
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Phat_Albert posted:I cant say if they go bad per se, but they do get glazed over from brake riders. This and I'm pretty sure getting soaked in oil isn't good for them either.
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Feb 15, 2010 21:40
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Two questions. First, my bike seems to kind of putter along and kind of jerk around a bit when I'm in second gear at 3k-5krpm. Should I be worried? It's not a huge deal to me and it only does it at this rpm range and only in second gear but could it be foreshadowing to a problem? (I don't think it's from me going too slow as I can putter around any gear without this problem, except second.) Second, I have a stupid parking decal that I have to stick on my bike and I was wondering if there was a way I could put it on and easily take it back off after the semester. It's like those dirtbike registration stickers you stick on your forks but this one's for parking. Anyone know of a tip for making it easier to peel off after? Or should I just slap it on and worry about peeling it off later. I was going to just bolt on a quick bracket for it but I'm 90% sure someone would just unbolt it and steal my pass  Both are pretty stupid question so I'm going to say sorry and thanks ahead of time 
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Feb 17, 2010 06:26
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