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Z3n posted:
Phat_Albert posted:Its not only the horsepower that makes a difference, its where the bike makes power. Even if certain bikes dont make a ton more power with flatslides, they make much more usable power, and the overall curve is affected. Yes, the shorter ventury will surely be a gain at high RPMs. However if you just force the port open, like most casual riders do, the response from a flatslide will be way slower (actually not, but it will feel like that, because it responds too fast for the gasoline to be transported through the main jet and diffuse). The true geniality about CVs are, that they won't respond too fast and feed you lean. I really don't want to bore people with too much details, but flatslides won't be the obvious choice for most riders. Phat_Albert posted:Thanks for calling us idiots though You're welcome. Anytime  Z3n posted:It'd sound great though. Isn't that really worth it all? Sorry, I can't hear you. I drive a port lifted GT750 Water Buffalo with a Figarolli 3-1 on a daily basis.
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Apr 25, 2010 17:03
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Battery question: I just got a new battery for my Ninja and I've never had to fill the electrolyte myself. Its a sealed, maintenance-free type, and it came with two electrolyte packs. One seems like it filled it up (it feels about as heavy as my current one), but do I need to add both? The instructions don't say.
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Apr 25, 2010 22:38
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sirbeefalot posted:Battery question: Wait, what? How did you fill it if it's sealed? I thought you aren't supposed to open sealed batteries.
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Apr 26, 2010 15:16
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sirbeefalot posted:I just got a new battery for my Ninja and I've never had to fill the electrolyte myself. Its a sealed, maintenance-free type, and it came with two electrolyte packs. One seems like it filled it up (it feels about as heavy as my current one), but do I need to add both? The instructions don't say. Every time I've bought a motorcycle battery its come with one jug of acid and you fill the individual cells until the level is at a line marked on the sides.
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Apr 26, 2010 15:37
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Doctor Zero posted:Wait, what? How did you fill it if it's sealed? I thought you aren't supposed to open sealed batteries. It came with two 6-chamber packs of acid with foil tops. You place them over the open battery and push down, breaking the foil and draining the acid into each of the chambers in the battery. When its full, you put the included strip of caps over the open holes in the battery, and never open it again. The manufacturer got back to me, I should be adding both. I'll snap a picture when I get home.
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Apr 26, 2010 17:45
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I got battery that was actually sealed. Pay the shop, attach terminals, off you go.
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Apr 26, 2010 18:35
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Ola posted:I got battery that was actually sealed. Pay the shop, attach terminals, off you go. All accumulators sold in Europe within the last couple of decades are sealed. I haven't seen a battery sold dry since the mid '80s.
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Apr 26, 2010 18:43
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I'm horrible at carbs and failed again this weekend to get the jetting correct on my DRZ. Whats a reasonable price to pay a shop to get things straight?
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Apr 26, 2010 19:16
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Blaster of Justice posted:All accumulators sold in Europe within the last couple of decades are sealed. I haven't seen a battery sold dry since the mid '80s. I think these guys are the manufacturers or something. I got it for a song through a friend that works in their accounts receivable department. V  V
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Apr 26, 2010 19:32
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pr0zac posted:I'm horrible at carbs and failed again this weekend to get the jetting correct on my DRZ. Whats a reasonable price to pay a shop to get things straight? How did you screw up on jetting it? They should have recommended settings for you and you should be good to go off of those.
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Apr 26, 2010 19:37
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pr0zac posted:I'm horrible at carbs and failed again this weekend to get the jetting correct on my DRZ. Whats a reasonable price to pay a shop to get things straight? Unless you have some ridiculously modified DRZ, the settings recommended on ThumperTalk should work great.
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Apr 26, 2010 20:01
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Blaster of Justice posted:All accumulators sold in Europe within the last couple of decades are sealed. I haven't seen a battery sold dry since the mid '80s. Weird. The only batteries I can find here in Canada are all dry and come with a jug of acid.
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Apr 26, 2010 20:05
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8ender posted:Weird. The only batteries I can find here in Canada are all dry and come with a jug of acid. Well, I'm pretty clueless too, but selling unsealed, dry batteries can only be for transportation reasons (weight). I guess the European guarding angles found it unsafe for 18 y.o. people to gently caress around with a rather corrosive acid. Corrosive as in: It's not loving nice to get in your eyes.
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Apr 26, 2010 21:24
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Blaster of Justice posted:Well, I'm pretty clueless too, but selling unsealed, dry batteries can only be for transportation reasons (weight). I guess the European guarding angles found it unsafe for 18 y.o. people to gently caress around with a rather corrosive acid. Corrosive as in: It's not loving nice to get in your eyes. The graphic on mine is pretty sweet, just an exclamation point and a skeletal hand.
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Apr 26, 2010 21:44
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sirbeefalot posted:The graphic on mine is pretty sweet, just an exclamation point and a skeletal hand. I guess that's fine and all, but please don't poke your eyes with that skeleton hand. Your fingers will be rather pointy after a couple of minutes in that sweet solvent.
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Apr 26, 2010 21:51
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Blaster of Justice posted:Well, I'm pretty clueless too, but selling unsealed, dry batteries can only be for transportation reasons (weight). I guess the European guarding angles found it unsafe for 18 y.o. people to gently caress around with a rather corrosive acid. Corrosive as in: It's not loving nice to get in your eyes. Wouldnt shipping the battery and the acid in a container weigh the same as shipping the battery and the acid together? Wouldnt it weigh more actually because of the container? I think its a spillage thing.
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Apr 26, 2010 21:55
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Z3n posted:How did you screw up on jetting it? They should have recommended settings for you and you should be good to go off of those. It might help if I'd ridden another DRZ before and knew what "running well" felt like. I've got the things at the recommended settings and it just doesn't feel correct. I really hate having to pull the carb over and over to fiddle with things and don't have another chance for two weeks. If I can pay someone $100 to just make it work and let me keep riding it the next two weeks it would be worth it. Basically I'm lazy. Edit: Screw it you guys guilted me into it. I'll just piss my girlfriend one day this week and try and figure out whats wrong. I guess its possible something else is wrong. Should probably clean the carb out if I'm going to mess with it. pr0zac fucked around with this message at 22:01 on Apr 26, 2010 |
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Apr 26, 2010 21:56
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What is going wrong? I've got a few DRZs you can ride but none of them are stock...
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Apr 26, 2010 22:15
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Phat_Albert posted:Wouldnt shipping the battery and the acid in a container weigh the same as shipping the battery and the acid together? Wouldnt it weigh more actually because of the container? It's pretty easy to produce acid locally, Einstein
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Apr 26, 2010 22:16
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The wink doesnt make you any less of a prick. So they're separating manufacturing to ship batteries somewhere and have them reboxed with locally produced acid? That seems needlessly complex.
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Apr 26, 2010 22:23
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Phat_Albert posted:The wink doesnt make you any less of a prick. Don't bother. I'm out of here totally.
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Apr 26, 2010 22:28
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Blaster of Justice posted:Don't bother. I'm out of here totally. That was all it took? I would have said it earlier if I had known.
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Apr 26, 2010 22:58
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Prickage aside... The Interstate battery guy told me they ship them dry because powersport batteries end up siting on the shelf a lot longer than car batteries. I guess once filled they are only allowed to sit for so long before they have to pull them and send them back to the manufacturer. Leaving them dry allows them to sit drat near forever.
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Apr 27, 2010 02:57
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pr0zac posted:It might help if I'd ridden another DRZ before and knew what "running well" felt like. I've got the things at the recommended settings and it just doesn't feel correct. I really hate having to pull the carb over and over to fiddle with things and don't have another chance for two weeks. If I can pay someone $100 to just make it work and let me keep riding it the next two weeks it would be worth it. Basically I'm lazy. Related: My GS has been having a weird issue with it's idle, it either dies when I come to a stop with no throttle a lot of the time even if it's already warmed up, i've played with the idle screw below the carbs a bit, but it never seems to be just right, it's either idling at 3000-4000rpm or gets really low and eventually stalls. Do I need to clean out my carbs or are they just out of sync maybe? I really don't want to because I mostly lack the organisational skills and patience to do it. I'd be kinda surprised if my carbs were dirty because I go through a tank of gas on it once a week at least.
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Apr 27, 2010 03:38
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Try seafoam, this is a situation where it can really help.
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Apr 27, 2010 04:28
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Z3n posted:Try seafoam, this is a situation where it can really help. I actually bought a can about 2 weeks ago when I was grabbing an oil filter for the F2, I poured some in the Suzuki's gas tank and started it up, doesn't seem to have helped much, do I need to pour it in a vacuum line or something to make all the white smoke you see in videos? Where exactly is this on the bike? I'm not really too sure and am worried about messing it up 
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Apr 27, 2010 04:33
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infraboy posted:I actually bought a can about 2 weeks ago when I was grabbing an oil filter for the F2, I poured some in the Suzuki's gas tank and started it up, doesn't seem to have helped much, do I need to pour it in a vacuum line or something to make all the white smoke you see in videos? Where exactly is this on the bike? I'm not really too sure and am worried about messing it up I'd get a good dose in the tank and then go run the poo poo out of it.
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Apr 27, 2010 04:34
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Z3n posted:I'd get a good dose in the tank and then go run the poo poo out of it. Alright i'll get another can tommorow :3, maybe I didn't add a big enough dose before? :v
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Apr 27, 2010 04:36
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infraboy posted:Alright i'll get another can tommorow :3, maybe I didn't add a big enough dose before? :v The heavy white smoke is usually people with carbon deposits in the combustion chamber who pour seafoam directly in through the sparkplug hole or something and let it sit for a good 10 minutes before starting it back up and flogging it a little. You won't get much/any white smoke just running it through with the gas.
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Apr 27, 2010 04:57
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sirbeefalot posted:The heavy white smoke is usually people with carbon deposits in the combustion chamber who pour seafoam directly in through the sparkplug hole or something and let it sit for a good 10 minutes before starting it back up and flogging it a little. You won't get much/any white smoke just running it through with the gas. According to the can you should put 1/3 in the gas, 1/3 in the oil and 1/3 into a vacuum line and kill the motor and wait 10 minutes to restart. I would never put any into a spark plug hole and I would avoid using it in the intake or oil on a bike as it may not be good for the clutch or valves. It has worked ok when mixed in gas on my bikes for moderate cleaning and fuel stabilizing. It does work wonders in cars but even then you should change the oil immediately and it can damage plugs, o2 sensors ect.
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Apr 27, 2010 05:30
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Pubic Lair posted:According to the can you should put 1/3 in the gas, 1/3 in the oil and 1/3 into a vacuum line and kill the motor and wait 10 minutes to restart. Well I think those instructions are according to using the seafoam for a car, and a car's gas tank is a lot larger than a motorcycle, my bike's gas tank is only about 4-5 gallons. they recommend an ounce per gallon of fuel or something, I guess i'll actually measure the amount this time instead of guessing it. I checked out my plugs too, they're in spec and not any off color.
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Apr 27, 2010 06:45
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infraboy posted:Well I think those instructions are according to using the seafoam for a car, and a car's gas tank is a lot larger than a motorcycle, my bike's gas tank is only about 4-5 gallons. they recommend an ounce per gallon of fuel or something, I guess i'll actually measure the amount this time instead of guessing it. They recommend 1oz per gallon on the website here http://www.seafoamsales.com/how-to-use-sea-foam-motor-treatment.html They also say safe for all engines but I would still be wary of anything but mixing in into the gas on a bike. I know I have gone way over that 1oz/1gal ratio in my tank with no problems. The plug and o2 issues I mentioned are if you are stalling it by putting it into a vacuum port.
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Apr 27, 2010 07:35
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Bikebandit says these are "markers", and that they are not DOT approved. They look like turn signals to me, and they're cheap as poo poo compared to the "turn signals" available for my bike. What's the difference? http://www.bikebandit.com/bikemaster-universal-mini-stalk-marker-light-kit?m=6052&t=1
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Apr 27, 2010 08:36
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BotchedLobotomy posted:Bikebandit says these are "markers", and that they are not DOT approved. They look like turn signals to me, and they're cheap as poo poo compared to the "turn signals" available for my bike. What's the difference? They are turn signals, just less visible cause they don't stick out as far and they are smaller. I think the smoke turn signals will be a bit too dark, but the others should be fine.
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Apr 27, 2010 08:45
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BotchedLobotomy posted:Bikebandit says these are "markers", and that they are not DOT approved. They look like turn signals to me, and they're cheap as poo poo compared to the "turn signals" available for my bike. What's the difference?
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Apr 27, 2010 12:20
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Also its good to have turn signals that are visible enough that someone wont drive into you.
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Apr 27, 2010 13:23
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Pubic Lair posted:I would never put any into a spark plug hole and I would avoid using it in the intake or oil on a bike as it may not be good for the clutch or valves. It has worked ok when mixed in gas on my bikes for moderate cleaning and fuel stabilizing. I just mentioned that because I did that with my car. I was checking/changing the plugs anyway, so I pulled them, poured a small amount into each cylinder and let it sit, replaced the old plugs and ran it after 10-15 minutes for the glorious white smokescreen. Its essentially the same as running it through a vacuum line until the engine stalls. You mentioned not using it in the intake to protect the valves, where do you think its coming in when its in the fuel? I agree on maybe not putting it in the oil, but even that shouldn't be a problem if you are careful about it. You're supposed to run it for like 20 miles in the oil and then change it (in a car). The same process should work for a bike. Be warned, this kind of direct application into the cylinders does tend to foul up the plugs so you should have replacements ready if you do this. sirbeefalot fucked around with this message at 14:03 on Apr 27, 2010 |
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Apr 27, 2010 14:00
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Yeah... I guess if I want to get shorter turn signals I should just man up and get the good stuff. As well. 
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Apr 27, 2010 15:43
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Not a motorcycle question per se, but if someone was riding around out west and found themselves near bonneville, how would one go about getting to ride it balls out. Any paperwork or wavers? Any other salt flats that one could do this at?
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Apr 27, 2010 16:23
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I have a 81 suzuki gs450. Place by my house sell 100+ octane leaded gas. Is that a bad idea?
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Apr 28, 2010 19:29
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