NTRabbit posted:

OATH COMPLETE

He's now an Ogre captain on chariot with magnetised left arm, shield









and crossbow







Might as well claim a challenge, his melee weapon is cobbled together from a skewer, a one handed sword, and a one handed axe, and placed in a drilled out hand where the sword used to be, and the crossbow is converted by having the right hand cut off of it from a regular two handed crossbow, plus he's a foot Ogre I went at with a dremel so he could fit onto the back of his new woolly rhino buddy

signalnoise posted:

moths posted:

Cross-posting this guy from the oath thread!



I honestly thought rice bloodworms would look better than that. They might be more effective with some kind of water-slime effect, but that's a project for another day.

KingFisher posted:

Hey dudes I'm getting into Warhammer 10th Age:Kings of War and am a chaos dwarf player.

How does this 2k list look?

Abyssal Dwarfs (Evil)
Gargoyles* Infantry
Troop(10)
- Diadem of Dragon-kind

Slave Orc Gore Riders* Cavalry
Regiment(10)
- Quicksilver Rapier

Abyssal Halfbreeds Cavalry
Regiment(10)
- Maccwar’s Potion of the Caterpillar

Abyssal Grotesques Large Cavalry
Horde(6)
- Blessing of the Gods
Horde(6)
- Kaba’s Holy Hand Grenades

Angkor Heavy Mortar War Engine x2

Overmaster on Great Abyssal Dragon Hero (Mon)
- The Boomstick

Supreme Iron-caster on Great Winged Halfbreed Hero (Mon)
- Lightning Bolt (3)
- Scarletmaw’s Fenulian Amulet

Brakki Barka[1] Hero (Cav)

Plan of Battle

1. Set up the Abyssal Grotesques as the middle of the line with the two Angkor Heavy Mortar directly behind them.
2. Place the Iron-casteron mount to the left of one Angkor Heavy Mortar and the Overmaster to the right of the other.
3. Put the Halfbreeds and Brakki on the same side as the Iron-caster.
4. Place the Wolf riders and Gargoyles on the same side as the Overmaster

Goal would be to hold back and shoot with spells / war engines as long as possible.
Then charge the Grotesques into the main blocks on the opposing army, Support with the mounted heros.
Once stuck in then combo charge with the Halfbreeds and gargoyles.
Hold the wold riders in reserve to hit a Hero or defend the Iromn-Caster.

Pros of this army:
The slowest thing is a SP 7. 3 flying units. Everything hits relatively hard.

What downsides do you folks see?

KingFisher posted:

Best source for bases in the US?

Not a viking posted:

Also, isn't the Diadem the item that lets you use two Ranged attacks in a round?

Zark the Damned posted:

It looks a little heavy on the Magic Items there, you could probably afford another Troop of something by dropping a bunch of them, which would help protect you from outflanking.

Also maybe look at the Rhodia list in Uncharted Armies, I feel that's more Empire-Like (they have more war engines, steam tanks, demigryphs and griffons for heroes albeit with changed names to protect the innocent).

Atlas Hugged posted:

I hate seeing awesome Empire cannons get turned into generic units so I threw together a League of Rhordia list just for laughs so you can compare. The only thing I couldn't get into it was all three of your heroes. The other thing is that I had to proxy your scouts as mounted halflings with bows, but it's not a big deal.

That's only 1290 points. You've got room to play with magic items or bump the crossbows to a regiment so you can get the mage in. Just a thought.

KingFisher posted:

Best source for bases in the US?

richyp posted:

Just saw and ended up grabbing the 2 player KoW battle set in a local store and holy poo poo that's a lot of plastic for just £50 and a free metal Necromancer for good measure. Add in the skeleton warriors and the vampire count I spammed the painting thread with what's a good way of utilizing:

code:

- 40 Skeletons (I have 20 armed with Swords and Shields)
- 20 Ghouls
- 20 Zombies
- 1 x Necromancer
- 1 x Vampire

There's also the Dwarves that came with the starter so would there be a way of maybe allying them maybe as Abyssal Dwarves? or is there another Faction that would make a good proxy from Uncharted Empires that would mix them in?

code:

- 10 Ironclad  with Hammers or Axes
- 10 Ironwatch with Crossbows or Rifles (or 2 sets of 5 Rangers I guess)
- 10 Shield Breakers with 2 handed hammers
- Cannon/Organ Gun (I could shift this up to undead and model it as a Balefire too)

Daedleh posted:

Which tournament is that?

quote:

Group North Historical Wargaming Society will be returning the Crows Feast competition, now as a Kings of War tournament. This will be the biggest Kings of War competition in South Australia.

WhiteOutMouse posted:

I googled around and I checked ebay but I can't find decent and cheap skeleton archers. There are a few places that have models but not many, and they are expensive and very static. I would be happy with the mantic ones, but the plastic metal combo sounds tedious and $3 per model hurts when I am looking for 40.

I am addicted to deals thanks to bones, big army bundles and ebay deals. Anyone got a source for decent and cheap skelly archers?

WhiteOutMouse posted:

I googled around and I checked ebay but I can't find decent and cheap skeleton archers. There are a few places that have models but not many, and they are expensive and very static. I would be happy with the mantic ones, but the plastic metal combo sounds tedious and $3 per model hurts when I am looking for 40.

I am addicted to deals thanks to bones, big army bundles and ebay deals. Anyone got a source for decent and cheap skelly archers?

Not a viking posted:

Probably still some time away, but Mantic is going to produce egyptian skellies

richyp posted:

Third unit for my Vampire Counts Undead with a Vampire Hero army (I cheaped out on the model count because I'm lazy)



Just realised I forgot to paint the base edges brown.

Saint Drogo posted:

I love these guys but they really do look too sparse, just two or three more would complete it.

Ugleb posted:

Yeah I think you're probably leaving a bit too much space on the front rank there.

richyp posted:

Third unit for my Vampire Counts Undead with a Vampire Hero army (I cheaped out on the model count because I'm lazy)



Just realised I forgot to paint the base edges brown.

richyp posted:

(sorry for the blur I can't seem to get a decent group shot with my good camera for some reason).

Leperflesh posted:

Awesome advice.

Leperflesh posted:

Warning: camera infodump forthcoming. This might be a better conversation for The Dorkroom, but ahh fuckit, everyone takes pictures of their minis, right?

ISO is a holdover from film camera days, but it does still have meaning in the digital camera world. Basically it's the "sensitivity" setting you're setting on the camera's CCD. At higher ISOs, the camera will record info from the CCD at a more sensitive level - that is, each pixel is being queried and recorded "more". Typically what this really means is that you've got less light coming into the camera, so you're telling the camera to "be more sensitive" to what light is coming in, and that means you can take a shorter exposure/less aperture and still record useful images.

However, the higher the ISO, the more "grainy" the photo will be. Exactly how grainy is strongly correlated with how new and expensive the camera is, because improvements in CCD quality and performance at high ISOs is one of the major areas of technological advancement. So, with a fairly old digital camera, you're right to want to avoid grainy high-ISO shots.

That said, ISO 100 corresponds to very bright outdoor sunlight. A typical ISO for outdoor shooting in normal conditions is 200 or 400. I use ISO 400 as my default for indoors photography, and go to 800 when I'm shooting in the dark or at night. So I think ISO 100 is probably way way too low for what you're doing. By telling the camera "this poo poo is super bright yo" you're asking it to restrict the aperture and take as fast a photo as possible, in order to protect the CCD from being overwhelmed. Even at this setting, your shutter speeds are very low, though. More on why in a bit.

Next: the actual f-stop is going to depend on the lens you're using and its performance. So I can't really know if f/3.5 is good or bad. One thing you should not be doing, though, is zooming - if you are using a zoom lens, have it all the way out (widest angle view) and adjust distance of the camera to the target to get the framing you want. Zooming inherently reduces the amount of light getting into the lens.

A shutter speed of 1/40 is pretty drat low. Given your ISO 100 setting, I think your big problem is... wait for it.... lighting. You don't have anywhere near enough light. You should have enough light that at ISO 400, not zoomed, a reasonable distance of camera-to-subject (say, a couple feet), you're getting shots at 1/125 or 1/500 shutter speeds even at smaller apertures.

You can't really judge your lighting based on how it looks to your eye. That's because your eye has a built in shutter priority setting: you don't have much ISO adjustment in your eyeball, and your shutter is almost always locked open when you're not blinking, so your eyeball adjusts exposure by opening and closing its aperture - the iris. It does this without your conscious control. So without a mirror, you can't tell if you're in a dim scene but your iris is wide open, or a bright scene but your iris is closed way down.

The solution to this is metering: physically measuring the light. Fortunately most cameras have built-in metering these days (your 400D definitely does). When you hold the button down partway, the camera does through-the-lens metering, taking into account all the rest of your settings, and programs the shutter and aperture accordingly. The -2 to +2 scale is not an absolute scale: it's basically the camera going "OK, given the ISO settings and any other settings the user has put in, such as (in aperture priority mode) the aperture or (in shutter priority mode) the shutter speed or (in full manual mode) both... is there too much light, just the right amount of light, or not enough light?

Just the right amount of light would be at the "0" point of the scale. So what you're seeing is that, with a pretty slow shutter speed (way too slow to be taking hand-held photos), a way too low ISO, a probably reasonable f-stop, and the aperture blown wide open, you're getting photos that the camera thinks are a little overexposed. Which makes sense given how white the background is, because (unless you've set it) it's probably doing some kind of area metering or maybe center-weighted area metering - averaging the light from the entire scene, most of which is your white background, possibly biasing a bit for the point at the center of the frame, and then going from that.

How to fix? More light. A tripod will do wonders for you, because it'll let you handle those slower exposures. A non-white background will help your camera properly meter the subject. Aperture priority mode will let you expand the depth of field. But most of all, you need moooore liiiiight. You'll struggle to get good photos without it.

Let me know how it goes!

e. Oh, one more thing: white balancing has to do with color temperatures of lighting and not how much lighting there is. If your camera doesn't have built-in white balancing (it might, check for a feature) you can do it later in gimp/lightroom/photoshop/whatever, like you're already doing. But needing to do that has more to do with what kind of lighting you're using (flourescent, incandescent, etc.) rather than how much lighting you're using.

NTRabbit posted:

Anvil Industry has some dwarf stuff http://anvilindustry.co.uk/Miniatures-of-the-North/Fallen-Dwarves

Leperflesh posted: