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SlightlyMadman posted:I just bought a 2009 Bonneville with 1200 miles on it, and I noticed from the service log that the PO never got the 500 mile maintenance stamp. I know I could probably do it all myself pretty easily (it's really just changing the oil, lubing the drive chain, and checking a bunch of stuff), but I'd be worried about not having service logs affecting the resale value if I ever decide to get a different bike. Do people care about that as much with motorcycles as they do with cars? The shop I go to wants $250 for it, which is kind of ridiculous. Frankly I'm amazed if the previous owner of a bike has any paperwork at all, including the title.
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Aug 14, 2010 21:58
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I'm pretty sure that maintenance stamps are a thing of the past. Everything is electronic now. Ask Marv Hushman about his Harley maintenance shop experience. 
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Aug 14, 2010 22:51
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Tire question: I thought about trying Pirelli Sport Demons next time around, but I can't get them in the exact size I need so I thought about going up one size in width as the internet says is ok. So my usual front size is 100/90. If I go 110/90 that makes the tire 99 mm tall instead of 90 mm. But if I go 110/80 it's 88 mm tall which is much closer to original. Would that be better?
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Aug 15, 2010 22:51
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Ola posted:Tire question: I thought about trying Pirelli Sport Demons next time around, but I can't get them in the exact size I need so I thought about going up one size in width as the internet says is ok. What's the tire diamenter ? 17" ? Even without answer, i'll say i would go with the 110/80, they'll be closer to what you have now... My question, more on the theory size : Is it insane to think that back shocks could be mounted upside-down ? Something tells me that "no, of course you can't", but i can't really think of any reason a shock wouldn't work upside-down just as well as it does right-side up. Can someone please tell me this is a really really bad idea ? 
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Aug 16, 2010 01:40
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If it's a single rate spring it would I guess, but why do you want to mount them upside down?
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Aug 16, 2010 02:43
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I have a 6 volt battery question. Right now I'm at about 1 1/2 years into my motorcycle battery. I ride 5 days a week every week, 10 minutes on the road twice a day. I'm worried that the battery is going die on me unexpectedly near the end of the year. To avoid wasting lots of money on a taxi to get to and from work and then to a battery store, I would like to store a brand new battery. How long can I store a brand new 6v motorcycle in ideal conditions without it losing charge? Is this method even feasible? I just want to be able to plop in the new battery when the old one dies.
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Aug 16, 2010 05:06
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You need to put the new battery on a battery tender if the acid is already in it, and don't leave it on a concrete surface (put it on a block of wood if it's in the garage). If it needs acid added, just leave it be and add the acid when you need to use the battery. A new battery will lose charge over the course of maybe a month or two if it's not getting charged at all. Also, 1.5 years isn't too long for a motorcycle battery so I wouldn't be too paranoid. If you're really concerned, you can always test the battery's voltage at idle and when the bike is revving to make sure it's holding around 6 at idle and higher when the bike should be charging it.
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Aug 16, 2010 05:14
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FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:You need to put the new battery on a battery tender if the acid is already in it, and don't leave it on a concrete surface (put it on a block of wood if it's in the garage). If it needs acid added, just leave it be and add the acid when you need to use the battery. A new battery will lose charge over the course of maybe a month or two if it's not getting charged at all. There's nothing that will cause problems with storing a battery on a concrete floor. The whole battery on the floor causing it to drain is an old wives' tale. There's no reason that mounting a shock upsidedown wouldn't work, but I'm not sure why you'd want to do it...
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Aug 16, 2010 05:18
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And now for my question: what would cause a bike to be hypersensitive to wind? What I mean is, my bike runs fine at lower speeds, accelerates fine through the first few gears, but once it gets going about 60 or more, wind blasts noticeably make the engine stumble and once I get going around 100 it starts to REALLY lose steam. The bike is a CBR F2 and is also jetted slightly rich at the moment (was jetted for a D&D exhaust and I have the stock back on), but I don't think fuel mixture is 100% to blame here, mostly because it runs well at lower speeds. I can run it straight through second gear, which tops out around 60 or 70, with no problems. On windy days the bike runs noticeably slower on the highway and will surge and sputter a lot the faster I go. Intake leak? Jetting? Something else? It's completely naked now so I doubt it's all the drag I'm creating, heh. It shows none of the typical signs of an intake leak.
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Aug 16, 2010 05:21
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It could be leaning out if you've created a ram air effect by removing the covers over the air intakes...higher pressure in the airbox means less fuel because of the pressure differential between the float bowls and the intake. It seems to match the problems you'd get in the ram air systems in the kawasakis (although not as severe) if you disconnected the tube that pressurized the carbs.
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Aug 16, 2010 05:28
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Interesting idea, that sounds like a possibility. My airbox has two intakes that curve down facing the engine and they don't have covers on them whatsoever - they're just hollow tubes that feed straight to the air filter.
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Aug 16, 2010 05:38
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ijii posted:How long can I store a brand new 6v motorcycle in ideal conditions without it losing charge? Is this method even feasible? I just want to be able to plop in the new battery when the old one dies. You can buy a new battery dry and add acid when you need it. A couple of hours charging, and you're ready to go. You can store a dry battery for at least a couple of lifetimes. What motorcycle use 6V batteries these days? Just curious. Blaster of Justice fucked around with this message at 08:22 on Aug 16, 2010 |
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Aug 16, 2010 08:18
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Primo Itch posted:My question, more on the theory size :
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Aug 16, 2010 09:20
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BlackMK4 posted:It depends on the shock type, without getting too involved. Reasons would be better clearance if you're doing something custom. Mounting shocks upside down is generally a bad idea unless they are designed for it. It's likely to gently caress the float through the valving in them and change their properties. You can usually do this with mono-tube shocks without too much trouble though, but never, ever try it with dual-tube shocks. The reason people do this, or at least the reason I've been provided, is to "reduce unsprung mass". That's of cause utter bullshit. Blaster of Justice fucked around with this message at 13:10 on Aug 16, 2010 |
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Aug 16, 2010 10:25
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Z3n posted:There's nothing that will cause problems with storing a battery on a concrete floor. The whole battery on the floor causing it to drain is an old wives' tale. http://www.thebatteryterminal.com/TechTalk_Batteries_on_Concrete.htm Interstate Batteries posted:Well, here we are within months of the new Millennium, and I’m writing an article about an age old question ..."Will a battery be damaged or mysteriously discharged by allowing it to sit on concrete?" At least once a month, someone calls and asks this question or asks for clarification on the subject.
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Aug 16, 2010 16:08
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The reason i'd do it is because the serow has a gently caress-off weird frame design where the shock is fixed to the frame, so i don't have any space to put a good shock there (ie a modern fully regulable one with a external gas cartridge). The only way i'd have enough space is with the shock upside-down. Maybe someone knows a relatively modern (let's say 00-now) offroad bike with a remote gas cartridge ? All i can find have it welded to the top of the shock... Something like this that isn't 30 years old.  quote:Intake leak? Jetting? Something else? It's completely naked now so I doubt it's all the drag I'm creating, heh. It shows none of the typical signs of an intake leak. What z3n said. I've had something like that happen to me because i forgot to put the float bowel air breather hose back on, so the passing air on the side of the carb would make a small vacuum effect that stopped gas from going up at higher speeds. Do you have all your carb hoses in place ?
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Aug 16, 2010 16:12
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Primo Itch posted:The reason i'd do it is because the serow has a gently caress-off weird frame design where the shock is fixed to the frame, so i don't have any space to put a good shock there (ie a modern fully regulable one with a external gas cartridge). Old trials bikes (and possibly some MX models) used to run shocks with the rod uppermost. You can still buy trials shocks designed this way - check out Betor and NJB.  But this was twinshocks - I doubt you will find a monoshock like this, although it may be worth looking.
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Aug 16, 2010 16:48
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Primo Itch posted:Something like this that isn't 30 years old. Elka  If that doesn't work, Marzocchi makes something that'll fit.
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Aug 16, 2010 18:21
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From the "Is that a real poncho, or a Sears poncho?" Dept: Check out Wal-Mart's new modest, yet dedicated moto accessories section. Not too shabby, given that previously all you've ever been able to get there is an eagle-themed license plate and MAYBE an oil filter. While it is a gauntlet-free zone, I did pick up a pair of gloves. I'd classify them as demi-gauntlets, but it's my first pair with padded palms. I'm less impressed by the product line than I am with being part of a consumer group that is now somewhere between scrapbookers and gun nuts on the shelf-worthiness spectrum. 
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Aug 16, 2010 21:53
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Marv Hushman posted:I'm less impressed by the product line than I am with being part of a consumer group that is now somewhere between scrapbookers and gun nuts on the shelf-worthiness spectrum. How many boxes of .22lr did you honestly pick up with those new gloves?
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Aug 16, 2010 22:06
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Blaster of Justice posted:How many boxes of .22lr did you honestly pick up with those new gloves? Ammo
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Aug 16, 2010 22:52
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A buddy of mine has just bought a new Bonne SE (don't ask me why it's not a used one). I think we have some Bonne owners and ex Bonne owners - any recommendations for the best mods (the dealership is doing the air injection removal thing for him and it's coming with a screen and rack.)? Good rubber?
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Aug 18, 2010 14:29
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Saga posted:A buddy of mine has just bought a new Bonne SE (don't ask me why it's not a used one). I think we have some Bonne owners and ex Bonne owners - any recommendations for the best mods (the dealership is doing the air injection removal thing for him and it's coming with a screen and rack.)? Good rubber? British Customs Predator exhausts? http://www.british-customs.com/british-customs-triumph-bonneville-predator-exhaust-polished.html
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Aug 18, 2010 14:48
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Saga posted:A buddy of mine has just bought a new Bonne SE (don't ask me why it's not a used one). I think we have some Bonne owners and ex Bonne owners - any recommendations for the best mods (the dealership is doing the air injection removal thing for him and it's coming with a screen and rack.)? Good rubber? Go here: http://www.british-customs.com/triumph-bonneville-t100/, spend lots of money.
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Aug 18, 2010 15:01
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I've got a 2009, and the two big things I can't stand are the non-locking gas cap, and the mirrors. I've already replaced the gas cap with a locking one, and am seriously considering replacing the mirrors. The stock mirrors are flat (not convex) and so are pretty much useless for seeing anything but your elbows. My bike also came with a flyscreen, which seems to work well.
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Aug 18, 2010 15:31
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Would throttle body sync and/or valve clearances being out cause an increase in fuel comsumption/running rich?
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Aug 18, 2010 16:30
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It pays off to constantly fiddle with your bike. Turns out my headlight was about to explode in a ball of fire.  Looks like the ground wire had corroded and nice little arc went to town on my lamp connector. I think I have one lying around somewhere from the bikini fairing headlight, but does anyone know a different, better way to connect to the lamp?
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Aug 18, 2010 17:35
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2ndclasscitizen posted:Would throttle body sync and/or valve clearances being out cause an increase in fuel comsumption/running rich? I'm not so sure. If those are the only symptoms then I would say no. Throttle bodies out of sync = increased vibes, stumbling. Valve clearances too big = reduction in power, stumbling. Too small = all kinds of badness, backfiring through both ends.
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Aug 18, 2010 17:37
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2ndclasscitizen posted:Would throttle body sync and/or valve clearances being out cause an increase in fuel comsumption/running rich? I'll try to attack this serious question from a scientific point of view. Yes, I guess maladjusted carburetors might influence your fuel consumption a tiny bit. Valve clearance? Well, if they're shut close you'll consume very low amounts of precious fuel. Ola posted:Looks like the ground wire had corroded and nice little arc went to town on my lamp connector. I think I have one lying around somewhere from the bikini fairing headlight, but does anyone know a different, better way to connect to the lamp? Looks like a typical H4 overheating to me. You touched the bulb with your greasy Norwegian fingers when you installed it, didn't you? Blaster of Justice fucked around with this message at 17:53 on Aug 18, 2010 |
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Aug 18, 2010 17:42
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2ndclasscitizen posted:Would throttle body sync and/or valve clearances being out cause an increase in fuel comsumption/running rich? My GS500 was getting 59mpg pretty consistently, then one day when filling it up it got under 50mpg, I thought it was just a one time deal but it was consistently getting under 50mpg at that point. I then had my clearances checked, found an exhaust valve that was basically stuck open all the time, so we replaced the shim and did a carb sync and the bike has been running great and is getting 59mpg again. Short answer: yes they can affect gas mileage from personal experience.
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Aug 18, 2010 17:53
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Blaster of Justice posted:
I have now, but not before. The bulb was shining perfectly, glass contamination has one failure mode: shattered bulb due to uneven thermal capacity. The ground wire is green with copper corrosion (which could also be due to heat, I admit) and the other wires are mint.
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Aug 18, 2010 17:56
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Looks more like resistance built up and it was slowly destroying the connector. I mean, yes, your headlight would have exploded in a huge ball of flame, likely taking a scenic fjord with it. Well caught, sir.
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Aug 18, 2010 18:21
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Ola posted:I have now, but not before. The bulb was shining perfectly, glass contamination has one failure mode: shattered bulb due to uneven thermal capacity. The ground wire is green with copper corrosion (which could also be due to heat, I admit) and the other wires are mint. Well, sounds like a bad socket then. I usually scrap my head bulb SUCKets and simply solder the wires to the bulb and protect it with "Krympeflex". Don't know what it's called in 'Merican, but here: http://www.elektronik-lavpris.dk/index.php?cPath=4249 Edit: Shrink Tubing.
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Aug 18, 2010 18:21
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Heat shrink tubing/wrap.
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Aug 18, 2010 18:22
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I have the stuff needed, so will do that now. Only problem is the only bulb I have at hand is a 60/100W and the old one was 55/60W. Possibly another ball of flame, but hey - brighter light!
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Aug 18, 2010 18:26
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Ola posted:I have the stuff needed, so will do that now. Only problem is the only bulb I have at hand is a 60/100W and the old one was 55/60W. Possibly another ball of flame, but hey - brighter light! Shouldn't be a serious problem. The cooling of your GS headlight isn't designed to cope with the heat of 100W, but it'll most probably only cause more bulb replacements. I run 60/100 in my 1978 GT750 designed for 55/60. Last time I replaced a bulb was 3 years ago, so no worries.
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Aug 18, 2010 18:46
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Got my wattage wrong, it's 100/80W. Puts out plenty of heat but not more than you can touch (that is, touch the glass cover or the back side) comfortably. Also, the headlight is not Suzuki OEM but aftermarket from aztec8.com. Getting pretty fed up with it, will probably replace it if I come across a reasonably priced, nice looking one.
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Aug 18, 2010 19:31
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New V-Strom 650 woop woop! So basically I ordered a bazillion pieces of luggage for it and will be taking off on a trip while still in the break in period. The bike is at 120 miles and I changed out the oil. Does anybody have any advice for changing oil on the road without taking it to a shop? It was deliciously easy to change the oil and filter, but on the road I won't have an oil catch, etc. The dealer also didn't have a manual on hand. Do I need to get the 600 mile service done with Suzuki to keep the warranty?
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Aug 19, 2010 04:53
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RichBomb posted:New V-Strom 650 woop woop! DL 650 manuals here: http://www.carlsalter.com/motorcycle-manuals.asp
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Aug 19, 2010 06:05
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SlightlyMadman posted:I've got a 2009, and the two big things I can't stand are the non-locking gas cap, and the mirrors. I've already replaced the gas cap with a locking one, and am seriously considering replacing the mirrors. The stock mirrors are flat (not convex) and so are pretty much useless for seeing anything but your elbows. Thanks guys, think he knows about the British customs products - he has mentioned them. Just not sure what's the best bang for the buck. Any thorts? SM, he's got the flyscreen thrown in which sounds good. Can you get locking caps from Triumph? Are there special aftermarket mirrors for the bonne that can help, or are we just talking pick-a-generic-chinese-mirror type replacements? e: that site is full of advice for Bonne owners terrified that their headers will go blue. This is so depressing, I just want to cry.  2ndclasscitizen, if carby, badly worn emulsion tubes can cause these symptoms as well. Drop in economy, rich and eventually fouls its plugs. Certain models of Mikuni CV are known for it. Saga fucked around with this message at 09:37 on Aug 19, 2010 |
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Aug 19, 2010 09:25
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