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Replaced the corded (both) tires on my F4i today after doing a huge smoky burnout on the old rear.  Tire change went smooth, however I noticed the rear wheel bearings are completely shot. As in, there's audible crunching and a rough feeling in them. The bike has 37k miles on it, is this about avg for wheel bearing life?My main question is where is a good online shop to get the bearings from? It looks pretty doable in my garage to drive the bearings in and out with a correct sized socket and and hammer, am I right here? thanks! 
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Sep 26, 2010 10:51
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| # ? Jun 4, 2024 08:25 |
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video of said burnout? Wheel bearings are easy if you change them before they fail catastrophically,37k miles is about typical from my experience, my SV needed rear bearings at 36, my buddys FZ6 at about 40k. There's probably a bearing in the sprocket carrier thats needs to be replaced too. I usually just pick up the appropriate bearings in the local plant machinery spares place, as they're about 50% cheaper than bike shops for the exact same bearings.
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Sep 26, 2010 12:09
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I've ordered from all balls before and been happy with them.
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Sep 26, 2010 16:55
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thanks guys!echomadman posted:video of said burnout? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JWQHvgQ0wc0 the first burnout was much better as you can see right in front of this one. but my friend didn't press 'record' properly..
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Sep 26, 2010 18:45
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I've had good luck getting the part number off of the bearing seal and buying them at Carquest. You end up paying about $2-5 a piece and they've always had them in stock for every weird one I've brought in.
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Sep 26, 2010 22:51
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Yesterday I tightened my chain back into spec, and today I noticed that it's making little popping noises when I hand-rotate the rear wheel, and the master link's really stiff. The chain's only a year old, and I maintain it by running a bead of gear oil down each side and then wiping the excess. I just wanna be on the safe side and doublecheck - are a new chain and sprockets in my future? e: near future, I'm assuming I'd renew the chain at some point anyway
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Sep 28, 2010 04:10
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Is the slack even around the chain? How far does it pull off the middle of the rear sprocket when you grab the chain and pull?
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Sep 28, 2010 04:53
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Just checked, the slack feels even when I'm measuring it at the midpoint between the two sprockets, but pulling off the rear, some links I can get a joint like almost an eighth of an inch or so off, and some won't move at all. And the popping is a lot stronger the more tension I put on the chain. Also when I say the master link is stiff I mean it retains a bit of a curve from the sprocket after it rolls off. That alone would lead me to be maybe replacing the chain, but I'd like to get this other thing diagnosed. I doubt it's the wheel bearings, I moved the wheel forward and popped the chain off, and the wheel itself still feels pretty silky, though I wasn't reefing on it.
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Sep 28, 2010 05:19
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Yeah chain is toast.
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Sep 28, 2010 05:21
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Bugger. Is EK any good or should I just lump it and go DID? (This chain was an EK, and if they don't suck then it's my fault for bein' a bad chain dad)
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Sep 28, 2010 05:34
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It's an o-ring chain? Any major chain maker should have a 20k warranty on it, how long did it last? Were you making sure you lubed the O rings? I've always used RK chains and they've always served me well.
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Sep 28, 2010 05:51
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X-ring, even, and it's been maybe 7-8000 km, all of it road, which I know is diddly. I was hitting the rings, with some slop over onto the rollers for good measure. Problem is it's probably been a half inch of slack loose (about 1" is specced in the owners manual) for most of that time. e: Sorry, meant a half-inch of slack extra over the one inch it was supposed to have. 1.5" of slack. I'd rather be too loose and mung the chain than too tight and mung both the chain and the countershaft seal. Phy fucked around with this message at 04:48 on Sep 29, 2010 |
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Sep 28, 2010 06:06
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Ahh yeah too tight will destroy a chain really quickly.
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Sep 28, 2010 19:17
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I haven't attempted to start my bike in 3 days but when I took out the spark plugs they were damp (with i think gas), bad sign?
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Sep 30, 2010 03:33
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So I've been commuting to school around 24 miles round trip every day on my XR650, and I'm getting really sick of the storage situation. Anyone have any actually affordable saddlebags/luggage recommendations? The bigger the better, and the cheaper the better too.
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Sep 30, 2010 04:16
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Chill_Bebop posted:So I've been commuting to school around 24 miles round trip every day on my XR650, and I'm getting really sick of the storage situation. Anyone have any actually affordable saddlebags/luggage recommendations? The bigger the better, and the cheaper the better too. http://www.jcwhitney.com/classic-or-cl-series/p2021206.jcwx?skuId=560692&TID=8014524FT4&zmam=15972153&zmas=21&zmac=141&zmap=561778 I have some of these on my ninja, and they've been sufficient for almost everything I've wanted to carry.
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Sep 30, 2010 07:12
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What's it like buying motorcycles in California without a title? I see good deals from time to time but I've heard it can be a real bitch to actually complete the process. For example, I saw a 1981 Honda CB750 on Craigslist but from what I understand, I would need to complete a bill of sale, possibly buy a surety bond, do a VIN/title check... etc. What if the current owner just doesn't have the title, but they're paid up on the registration and their current name/address is on the registration card? Would that make life easier for me?
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Sep 30, 2010 20:00
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ChiTownEddie posted:I haven't attempted to start my bike in 3 days but when I took out the spark plugs they were damp (with i think gas), bad sign? Did you play with the throttle at all? I wouldn't imagine it would be a problem unless it's leaking somewhere. A fuel system should keep pressure over a few days, I would think.
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Sep 30, 2010 20:23
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Radbot posted:What's it like buying motorcycles in California without a title? I see good deals from time to time but I've heard it can be a real bitch to actually complete the process. For example, I saw a 1981 Honda CB750 on Craigslist but from what I understand, I would need to complete a bill of sale, possibly buy a surety bond, do a VIN/title check... etc. Check this out: http://www.dmv.ca.gov/pubs/brochures/howto/htvr14.htm Also this: http://www.dmv.ca.gov/pubs/brochures/howto/htvr9.htm (From here: http://www.dmv.ca.gov/pubs/brochures/vrbrochures_top.htm) Basically, it depends on where it was titled last. If it was titled last in Alabama, then it's a big clusterfuck. If it was last titled in CA, they need to fill out the application for a duplicate title that's paired with a reassignment of the title. If it was last done out of state, they need to have the original title.
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Sep 30, 2010 20:46
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Z3n posted:Check this out: Gotcha, and thanks a lot for the links. It seems like it's a pretty easy process for a cheap, old motorcycle (no bond to post, no odometer statement, etc.) as long as it was titled in CA. Thanks!
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Sep 30, 2010 22:26
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Radbot posted:Gotcha, and thanks a lot for the links. It seems like it's a pretty easy process for a cheap, old motorcycle (no bond to post, no odometer statement, etc.) as long as it was titled in CA. Thanks! Forgot, 2 other handy links: https://www.nicb.org/theft_and_fraud_awareness/vincheck and https://mv.dmv.ca.gov/FeeCalculatorWeb/index.jsp Also worth knowing.
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Sep 30, 2010 22:45
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Z3n posted:Forgot, 2 other handy links: Holy everloving gently caress is that fee calculator useful... I had no idea that existed. I have a bike that I bought a few months ago that I never transferred the title for (registration is current, though) and I was putting it off since I thought the penalty fees would be a lot. Turns out it's just like $30 or so... so off to AAA I go! Thanks!
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Sep 30, 2010 23:05
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Radbot posted:Holy everloving gently caress is that fee calculator useful... I had no idea that existed. I have a bike that I bought a few months ago that I never transferred the title for (registration is current, though) and I was putting it off since I thought the penalty fees would be a lot. Turns out it's just like $30 or so... so off to AAA I go! Thanks! Yeah it's pretty cool. The CA dmv is slowly modernizing. There's also an online release of liability too.
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Sep 30, 2010 23:54
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I've got a 2009 Bonneville, and I've been noticing ever since I got it that sometimes when I shift from 2nd to 1st there's a fairly pronounced sort of "kerchunk" I can both hear and feel with my foot. I just assumed that was it passing through neutral but wondered why it only happened sometimes (other times, I can still feel it pass through neutral but not nearly as much). Now this morning I'm really worried because as I was shifting down coming to a stop (decelerating fairly rapidly from 3rd), as I went from 2nd to 1st it met serious resistance as it passed through neutral. I felt a strong rattling with my foot, and it made a sound like grinding gears. I thought at first that I maybe didn't have the clutch all the way disengaged, but wouldn't I have noticed that seconds before, when I went from 3rd to 2nd? When I tried shifting again a couple seconds later, it went fine, and it didn't happen again for the rest of my ride. Should I be worried about this?
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Oct 1, 2010 17:34
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SlightlyMadman posted:I've got a 2009 Bonneville, and I've been noticing ever since I got it that sometimes when I shift from 2nd to 1st there's a fairly pronounced sort of "kerchunk" I can both hear and feel with my foot. I just assumed that was it passing through neutral but wondered why it only happened sometimes (other times, I can still feel it pass through neutral but not nearly as much). That just sounds like your clutch isnt fully disengaging, the transition from 1st-2nd and 2nd to 1st is the one that usually involves the biggest difference in engine speed so its much more noticable than changing between other gears
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Oct 1, 2010 17:58
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Hmm, ok I'll be extra sure that I squeeze hard on the lever and see if that helps prevent it in the future. This could also mean my clutch cable is too loose or something, right?
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Oct 1, 2010 18:05
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Yes, if your clutch cable is too loose it can cause that. It should have about a quarter inch of slack in the bar before it starts to pull on the cable.
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Oct 1, 2010 18:40
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Another mostly unrelated question: I've heard people talk about up-shifting without using the clutch, and I've tried it but it simply won't go unless I have the clutch in. Is that something specific to the Bonneville that won't allow it? I really don't find it to be any problem to use the clutch for up-shifting so I don't really care; I was just curious.
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Oct 1, 2010 19:09
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No, it's just your technique. The best way to learn it is to lightly preload the shifter with the throttle on, and then roll off as you push up on the shifter, you'll feel it drop into gear. It's a VERY fast movement, the second you start to roll off the throttle, the bike needs to shift while the transmission isn't under load, which is a tiny slice of time. Give it a shot, it's faster and smoother than clutch in shifting when done correctly, but you do have to do it correctly or risk transmission damage. Kinda pointless on a bonnie, honestly.
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Oct 1, 2010 19:18
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Cool, I wasn't sure if I was just doing it wrong or if it was only possible on sport bikes or something. I can't really imagine being in a situation any time soon where it would gain me anything as a new rider, so it would likely do more harm than good. I'll check my clutch lever after work today to see if it has more than a quarter inch of slack, and try holding it extra tight on the ride home to see if that helps my down shifts. I did actually adjust the levers when I got the bike, because the PO had massive hands and I have tiny girl hands, so I guess that could have something to do with it. Is it recommended to adjust the cable somehow when you adjust the levers?
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Oct 1, 2010 20:11
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How did you adjust the levers? If you've got a roller on the levers that you can adjust to change how far the lever is from the bar, then yes, it's possible that you adjusted the levers in and the clutch couldn't completely disengage anymore. The important thing is to maintain a very small amount of slack before the clutch engages, especially if you have the lever close to the bar. The closer the lever is to the bar, the less engagement you'll get in the lever, and the more important it is that the clutch releases in a minimum of distance.
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Oct 1, 2010 20:15
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Yeah, I have the little disc on the lever labeled 1-4 and I moved it I think from 4 to 2. Whichever number it was, it was where the levers were the furthest away from the grips, and I could barely reach them. I'll have to see if my owner's manual tells how to adjust the slack on the cable; I take it it's more complicated than on a bicycle, but still a simple procedure?
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Oct 1, 2010 20:57
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Yes, it's very easy. At most you might need a pair of pliers and two crescent wrenches. Also, make sure you aren't trying to shift into first gear while the bike is moving more than 10 mph, that can cause the clicking noise you talked about before. I used to do that before I learned how to engine brake properly.
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Oct 1, 2010 21:35
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SlightlyMadman posted:Yeah, I have the little disc on the lever labeled 1-4 and I moved it I think from 4 to 2. Whichever number it was, it was where the levers were the furthest away from the grips, and I could barely reach them. It's actually no more complicated than it is on a bicycle. There will be a little screw type adjuster at the top of the cable where it goes into the clutch perch, rotate that out to take slack out of the cable, rotate it in to add slack. If it's all the way out, adjust it all the way in and then there's another adjustment at the bottom of the clutch cable, by where it goes into the engine.
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Oct 1, 2010 21:45
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Z3n posted:Yes, if your clutch cable is too loose it can cause that. It should have about a quarter inch of slack in the bar before it starts to pull on the cable. For what it's worth, every Bonneville I've ridden does this to some extent, as does my Thruxton.
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Oct 1, 2010 22:49
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The NonBornKing posted:Also, make sure you aren't trying to shift into first gear while the bike is moving more than 10 mph, that can cause the clicking noise you talked about before. I used to do that before I learned how to engine brake properly. poo poo, really? If I'm coming up to a red light, I'll shift all the way down as soon as i start braking, so I can be going 30+ still when I drop it into first. That's what I was taught to do in the MSF as far as I can recall, but I guess it didn't matter then since we were rarely going over 10 mph anyways. Have I done any serious damage by riding like this for the past few months?
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Oct 2, 2010 00:26
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SlightlyMadman posted:poo poo, really? If I'm coming up to a red light, I'll shift all the way down as soon as i start braking, so I can be going 30+ still when I drop it into first. That's what I was taught to do in the MSF as far as I can recall, but I guess it didn't matter then since we were rarely going over 10 mph anyways. No, but the problem with that is that if the light goes green and you need to accelerate, you're doing 30mph in first gear. It's best to click down in rough relation to your road speed, so go into second at around 30mph, and then first at around 10-15mph, depending on the gearing of your bike.
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Oct 2, 2010 01:19
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Or on a literbike shift down to 2nd for 80 MPH, or 1st for 60... You should click down to roughly the gear that matches your speed like Z3n says. It's not good to slam it into first going 50. At least, the transmission CLUNK never sounds like it much cares for that sort of thing so I try not to do it.
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Oct 2, 2010 02:59
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To avoid the loud clunk I just try to rev match it as much as possible. 2nd to 1st at 35mph if I have a openning to do an awesome wheelie.
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Oct 2, 2010 04:03
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| # ? Jun 4, 2024 08:25 |
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So I was down in Great Falls, Montana today doing some cross-border shopping, and I saw a dude on a race-style ATV booting it up one of the main roads, with a plate dangling from the back. Is this actually a thing there? Can you street a goddamn ATV in Montana? 
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Oct 3, 2010 08:08
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