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slidebite posted:Thanks for the recommendation. I'm in Do yourself a favor, and stay away from Dunlop Roadsmarts as many ST owners have reported tire delamination. Avon Storm II's have been hit or miss on the ST1100/ST1300's, some people like them, some hate them. I ride an ST1300 and have had good experiences with both the Pilot Road 2's and Bridgestone's BT-23.
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Dec 30, 2010 02:52
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so the Superstore probably wont work out, but if Pilot Roads are good rubber I'll see if I can get a deal on them.
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JP Money posted:I run pilot powers, and they've been good to me so far for 2500 miles. The rear looks like it will need replaced here in another couple hundred miles or so depending on what the weather is like and how hard I can go push corners / stop riding highway all day long. I saw 11k out of a set of PR2, and I -think- I will be running them as my next tires on my street wheels. I got 5k out of a Pilot Power 180/55 rear with a lot of twisty riding thrown in on a CBR600F4i.
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Dec 30, 2010 03:36
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That's what I'm on - an F4i. I've got tons of tread left on the sidewalls, it's just the center that is just finally beginning to flatspot a little. I put a lot of highway miles on my bike from commuting and not enough twisties unfortunately. I think I'm going to switch to PR2's, I just really, really hope they're confidence inspiring. I may switch up to something else though as I never felt like power's gave me as good a turn-in as they should. People tell me that once you get pretty fast they are great but I feel like being only moderate on them is not getting enough from them. I've got easily a few thousand miles left in the sidewalls of these regular PP's, so hopefully getting the PR2 will help balance out the wear.
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Dec 30, 2010 04:20
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Wacky question. 04 Triumph Daytona 600. Good battery, good voltage, holds a charge. All indicators work, tails and brake lights work. High beams work....low beams do not. check the bulb you moron? dual element bulbs, so it's not the wiring. and there's two bulbs. Before I pull the fairings off (again) to get to the head lights, is it probably just one of them burnt out? If that's not it, then where do I start looking?
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Dec 30, 2010 04:44
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JP Money posted:
BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 06:46 on Dec 30, 2010 |
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Dec 30, 2010 06:42
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Perhaps I should rephrase that, maybe turn-in isn't what I'm looking for in this situation. It seems like while riding I have to wait til later in the turn to actually start my lean and countersteer, which is kind of awkward for some turns unless you're going balls out. I've noticed some buddies on pirelli diablo's that seem to be turned in, leaning, and set in the curve a little earlier than I am and I can't help but think that'd turn out smoother than leaning in at the last second. Idk, they might work for some, but for me I'm not 100% a fan. For the price though, I can't really complain too much.
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Dec 30, 2010 07:24
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Pilot Roads are pretty solid tires if you want lots of mileage and reasonable performance. I put something like 15k on mine and while they were flatspotted in the middle, they still had lots of tread everywhere. I had to finally get rid of them for a trackday. Performance-wise, they gave me no issues until I was leaning enough to drag a knee, and then the rear would spin up a bit. Never had the front go down on me.
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Dec 30, 2010 07:49
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Seconding pilot roads, I have them on the bandit, and they're great. Basically like a long wearing pilot power, handling-wise.
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Dec 30, 2010 19:15
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Protip: Some of the budget racers run PR2s as their wet tire. 
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Dec 30, 2010 22:05
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2ndclasscitizen posted:Don't forget the unsealed spoke wheels so you've gotta run Pirelli Phantoms! No it affects Gt1000 owners, I was looking at some duc forums and there are a whole shitton of them who are on their 2nd and 3rd tanks and its still happening.
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Dec 30, 2010 22:32
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I want to try and keep my bike clean (especially in winter with all the salt around) but I live in an apartment building and there's no outside water/electricity here. I was thinking of taking the bike to a gas station and using the pressure washer thing that they have there. Are pressure washers a bad idea with bikes though? I don't want to risk forcing water in places where it's not wanted!
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Dec 30, 2010 23:16
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Just take a few steps back? Is it an actual pressure washer or one of the high pressure car washers?
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Dec 30, 2010 23:34
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BlackMK4 posted:Protip: Some of the budget racers run PR2s as their wet tire. They really are a great tire, and for street riding, I dont know why you'd ever choose a pilot power over the pilot road.
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Dec 31, 2010 02:38
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Forty Two posted:Are pressure washers a bad idea with bikes though? I don't want to risk forcing water in places where it's not wanted! Not a good idea, but if you really must, keep it out of the wheel centres because you trash the wheel bearings, and off the chain because you'll force crap in past the seals and the lubricant out.
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Dec 31, 2010 04:45
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2ndclasscitizen posted:Not a good idea, but if you really must, keep it out of the wheel centres because you trash the wheel bearings, and off the chain because you'll force crap in past the seals and the lubricant out. Not to mention decals (or deckells, depending on where you're from) - avoid those too. And carbs/injectors. And any electrical connectors. Including plug boots. And where the seat joins the bodywork, or everything under there will be full of water. Basically, a proper pressure washer is a bad idea. Something that's the equivalent of a hose with a spray nozzle and average water pressure probably won't break anything, as long as you avoid determinedly attacking the areas listed above.
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Dec 31, 2010 10:04
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ive been looking at replacement levers for my ER5 and the bloke at the shop identified them as suzuki adjustable levers, these are the stock ones. then i saw the exact same ones on a Triumph out the front. wtf are bike bits just universally interchangable between manufacturers? kawasakis coming from the factory fitted with suzuki stuff?
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Jan 1, 2011 02:33
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Kommando posted:are bike bits just universally interchangable between manufacturers? Mostly ancillary stuff. I know my Buell shares turn signals with some Triumphs and mirror buckets with Kawi ZZRs.
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Jan 1, 2011 13:11
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Kommando posted:ive been looking at replacement levers for my ER5 and the bloke at the shop identified them as suzuki adjustable levers, these are the stock ones. then i saw the exact same ones on a Triumph out the front. They arent universally interchangeable by any means. Things like levers will sometimes be interchangeable because no bike manufacturers make their own brakes. The Suzuki, Kawasaki and Triumph all probably use the same Nissin or Tokico brake master cylinders. Suzuki and Kawasaki do have a parts sharing thing thats been going on for the last decade or so, but its mostly small bits (04-era GSXR600 and Z1000 share the same tail section cover for instance) and the fact that the DRZ and KLX 400 are the same bike.
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Jan 1, 2011 19:01
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Arghhh why does it have to be so difficult?! I just need a garage 
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Jan 1, 2011 20:28
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Cross posting because this thread seem much more active: I got a rather expensive Joe Rocket leather riding jacket 2 years ago when I first got my bike and it wasn't until I saw how degraded my baseball glove was that I remembered about leather treatment. Is there a particular leather conditioner that goons recommend?
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Jan 1, 2011 21:26
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I'm really pissed off at my 2009 Kawasaki Ninja 500r. At the beginning of December I went from thinking "I just need a new battery" to "Wow, look at this long list of things to do to my bike". So I'm going to sell it because I really don't want to spend the time and money on it for repairs. The motorcycle just costs too much to maintain. My question is how much should I sell it for with keeping these things in mind: -The stock cosmetics are in good condition, no scratches anywhere. -Bike has a cracked radiator -Front and rear brake pads need to be replaced immediately -Front and rear tires are dry rotting, needs to be replaced. -Motorcycle won't start up, just found out yesterday that it won't even make any type of noise, all I see is the neutral light on the dashboard flicker when I try to start the engine. -Battery is new -Oil, oil filter, air filter, and spark plug recently changed. -Has a LoJack and early warning system installed ($1000 there for those who don't know) -Can throw in a Full Helmet that cost me $600.
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Jan 2, 2011 02:20
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ijii posted:I'm really pissed off at my 2009 Kawasaki Ninja 500r. At the beginning of December I went from thinking "I just need a new battery" to "Wow, look at this long list of things to do to my bike". I'll take it for $1000 and a box of tissues for ya.
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Jan 2, 2011 02:37
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ijii posted:-Motorcycle won't start up, just found out yesterday that it won't even make any type of noise, all I see is the neutral light on the dashboard flicker when I try to start the engine. Usually this is caused by a faulty relay that's meant to not allow it to start when the kickstand is down or the clutch is not pulled in, so I'd start there. You can also easily test the starter solenoid if you hear a clicking sound when you push the start button. Other than your cracked radiator, it sounds like standard maintenance to me. I buy new tires twice a year at least, usually a new chain and sprocket set, new brake pads, all this sounds pretty standard. I also ride daily, though. Your tires shouldn't be suffering dry-rot at only a year old unless they've been abused like being ridden around with extremely low pressure.
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Jan 2, 2011 04:00
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ijii posted:I'm really pissed off at my 2009 Kawasaki Ninja 500r. At the beginning of December I went from thinking "I just need a new battery" to "Wow, look at this long list of things to do to my bike". Replacing the pads is a 30 minute job, done carefully. The only price reduction for that would be the cost of half a set of cheap-rear end brake pads. I don't even understand how the tyres could be "dry rotting", unless you put a ten year old set of tyres on a 2009 bike. I had my TRX on storage for 8 years and didn't have that problem. Admittedly I found out that 8 year old Dragons go a bit hard and slidey, but they didn't rot. Just like FWB, I'll take your word for it about the maintenance issues, but I'm slightly quizzical if these two items are part of your list of unreasonable maintenance costs.
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Jan 2, 2011 14:47
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Yeah all that stuff seems really unusual for a 2009 bike, the Ninja 500R has been around a long time. How did the radiator get cracked? I could imagine if it went down hard enough MAYBE that could happen. Unless someone shoved a big screwdriver in there for the hell of it.
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Jan 3, 2011 03:22
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I'm still a bit puzzled about the cracked radiator. I have one theory. Around July of 2009 some idiot employee backed into my motorcycle with his truck. My motorcycle was knocked over onto its left side. The insurance guy and the repair shop guy went over and fixed the bike which was pretty much all cosmetic damage except for the bent kickstand and bent clutch. It's possible the integrity of the radiator was damaged back then but wasn't obvious. I rarely go out and ride my bike outside of work which is only about a 10 minute ride each way. Since I don't ride long distances my motorcycle engine never got hot for long periods of time that would have aggravated the radiator quicker. Over a period of 14 months however that radiator could have been slowly degrading. I still wouldn't have known about if the guy at the shop didn't notice the stain trail on the bike right away. Outside of that I don't have a drat clue.
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Jan 3, 2011 05:59
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How often do tires need to be replaced? The 2006 FZ6 I bought has stock tires and only 2600km on it but I noticed they feel kind of hard.
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Jan 3, 2011 16:58
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Clank posted:How often do tires need to be replaced? The 2006 FZ6 I bought has stock tires and only 2600km on it but I noticed they feel kind of hard. If a tire is a day over four years old it's coming off my bike. I had 2006 tires on my supermoto when I bought it in October and they sucked major rear end, even though they were reputable tires (Pirelli Skorpions).
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Jan 3, 2011 17:08
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Clank posted:How often do tires need to be replaced? The 2006 FZ6 I bought has stock tires and only 2600km on it but I noticed they feel kind of hard. It really kind of depends on what conditions the bike with the tires was stored in. If it was garaged in a relatively stable temperature and away from sunlight most of the time then they're probably fine. If the bike was sitting outside exposed to the elements the tire may have deteriorated over time.
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Jan 3, 2011 19:33
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So I have a High Volume Low Pressure spray gun, an air compressor, and a bike that needs a new paintjob. I want to paint my bike satin black EXAMPLE. I know I need to use a primer, paint, and a clear coat. Can anyone recommend me a good brand of primer, paint, and clear coat to use with my spraygun? EDIT - Scratch that. My air compressor doesn't even come close to providing the CFM a spray gun needs. Strictly a soda blaster for now :/ ari.gato fucked around with this message at 21:33 on Jan 3, 2011 |
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Jan 3, 2011 21:20
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Maybe Ill change them just to be safe. I have no idea how the PO stored the bike. Those pilot roads posted earlier look good. Is mounting tires something I could do myself without any real specialized tools?
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Jan 3, 2011 21:21
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Pull the wheels off and take them to a local shop. Price out shops before you do it though, it should be around 20-30$ a wheel. Also see if they'll price match internet prices.
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Jan 3, 2011 21:22
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Z3n posted:Pull the wheels off and take them to a local shop. Price out shops before you do it though, it should be around 20-30$ a wheel. Also see if they'll price match internet prices. Yea, after watching some videos of how to do it, I'd rather just take it to a shop and not screw it up. Theres a place right around the corner from me that converts bikes into trikes and they do tires but it looks like its $45 a tire, Ill have to check around. (Also, they have the worst website: http://www.griffintrikes.ca/) With regards to price matching, do you mean for mounting the tires? Or for the tires themselves?
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Jan 3, 2011 21:43
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For the tires themselves. Sometimes places will mount and balance for free if you buy the tires from them, sometimes they'll charge a fee if you bring the tires in and don't buy them there, there's a lot of ways they can screw you for money.
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Jan 3, 2011 21:43
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Z3n posted:Pull the wheels off and take them to a local shop. Price out shops before you do it though, it should be around 20-30$ a wheel. Also see if they'll price match internet prices. Cyclegear does it for $20 I think off the bike. You could see if there is any local moto forums in your area that have local sponsors. There is a shop locally here (Houston) which does it for $20 on the bike or $10 off the bike for members from the forum if you get the tyres from them and - the prices are good too).
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Jan 3, 2011 23:23
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Grr, I got dinged for $35 each from the little shop down the street. And he asked if they were from a scooter.  Closest Cycle Gear is in Fuckall, The Valley, so the extra $15 convenience charge is almost easy to swallow, as I was able to take the wheels off and walk them down the street.
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Jan 3, 2011 23:35
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decided i need to ride to the grand canyon on atv trails and fire roads through the high desert. not sure how to navigate it. most of the way is loose dirt roads but sometimes the officially named roads stop and go all different directions and i think most of them are unmarked. i can see the route i want with google maps, but i'm wondering how to translate that into useful data i can follow on the bike on the ground. not a terribly long trip, was about 2.5 hours by train, but the roads/trails are kinda complicated. * sample: http://maps.google.com/maps?q=willi...2,0.014613&z=17 anybody have ideas on this? print out a whole lot of screenshots from google maps or something? * too cheap to buy a gps and i suspect most of the roads wouldn't show up on a gps anyway so it would have to have like, satellite photos, for it to be any use
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Jan 4, 2011 03:18
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:decided i need to ride to the grand canyon on atv trails and fire roads through the high desert. not sure how to navigate it. most of the way is loose dirt roads but sometimes the officially named roads stop and go all different directions and i think most of them are unmarked. i can see the route i want with google maps, but i'm wondering how to translate that into useful data i can follow on the bike on the ground. not a terribly long trip, was about 2.5 hours by train, but the roads/trails are kinda complicated. * Write out pace notes, use your odometer/tripometer. It's surprisingly easy if you are on track with these things. I do road rallyes in my car and this is how we navigate, measurements on maps and lots of odometer clicking. You could then toss your pace notes into a clear top tank bag or something, just be sure to click that odometer!
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Jan 5, 2011 20:28
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ijii posted:I'm really pissed off at my 2009 Kawasaki Ninja 500r. At the beginning of December I went from thinking "I just need a new battery" to "Wow, look at this long list of things to do to my bike". This is like a laundry list of shady motorcycle ads. Not saying you're shady but that every shady ad sounds just like that.
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Jan 5, 2011 20:42
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On the bike I'm rebuilding, the splines on the shift shaft are slightly twisted from the bike falling over sometime in the past 40 years. The shift lever will ride on the shaft but it has a little bit of free play. Is there any way aside from replacing the shaft to remove this free play that can be undone at a later time? The shift lever has to come off to change the front sprocket and I don't want a solution that is permanent.
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Jan 5, 2011 23:59
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