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dpidz0r
Jul 29, 2012

IOwnCalculus posted:

So the sun visors on the '99 I sold my mother-in-law keep flopping around. Any fix to this or do I just need to hunt down a new pair?
Why not just remove them entirely? Maybe I'm just tall or something, but I find the visors in my 2001 (and also my friends 96) to be 100% useless. In order to actually block the sun I'd need to be driving into the sunset up a steep hill while slouching way down in the seat.

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Not James Buchanan
Jun 23, 2006
.

Not James Buchanan fucked around with this message at 03:08 on May 2, 2013

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

That's kind of expensive and is missing at least one bushing, the T shaped one here

http://parts.arlingtonmazda.com/products/SHIFT-BUSHING-KIT-%28PKMIAD1033%29.html

Buy both the boots from them also, shouldn't be more than $100 for everything

Flesh Croissant
Apr 23, 2010

by FactsAreUseless
Could anyone tell me about making my own exhaust? What mufflers to get, how to make the most power, ect.

I'm naturally aspirated now but would get a megasquirt in short order and a turbo down the road, so if i can use one exhaust for it all i'd like it. Even if i can do it better with an expensive kit, i just want to do it to say i did it myself.

Phone
Jul 30, 2005

親子丼をほしい。
You need a smaller pipe for NA, biggere pipe for timbos.

There's apparently a Borla SM exhaust that was posted on mnet over summer, no idea if it actually went into production.

Flesh Croissant
Apr 23, 2010

by FactsAreUseless
Besides noise, what is the point of a smaller pipe for NA? I've been told the miata gains nothing from backpressure.

Phone
Jul 30, 2005

親子丼をほしい。
I can't remember off of the top of my head, but 2.25" should be pretty golden for an NA car.


Relevant Borla SM exhaust thread: http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=461298

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





leica posted:

Tell him to take them off, they suck. If he's anywhere near 6' he'll thank you.

IOwnCalculus posted:

my mother-in-law

:v:

When I drove it, yeah, I pulled them off because they were just annoying - but right now, at least this time of year, she is pretty much commuting straight into the sun both ways and she's short enough that I guess they actually help her.

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

Haha, I read that as brother in law for some reason. Close I guess.

Reading comprehension :effort:

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

Oh and I just found out that 1995 Miatas have a timing anomaly that not many people know about, and there's a chance my Miata has been running at 25 degrees BTDC for most of it's life! No wonder I've been getting horrible detonation.

From the Miata.net garage section:

quote:

I'd like to warn everyone in the online Miata community about a disturbing discrepancy in the documentation regarding the timing marks on 95s. Here is the run down on the timing marks (to my knowledge):

89-93 a white mark at TDC.
94 a yellow mark at TDC and a white mark at 10 degrees BTDC.
95 a white mark at 10 degrees BTDC. NO YELLOW MARK!
96-98 same as 94.
99 timing is not adjustable.

I found nothing in the list archives or on the http sites I searched saying that the 95s were odd ball. I cringe at the thought of the drug cocktail taken by the person who decided the color for the timing marks when revising the Miatas through the 90s.

My Haynes manual was right all the time however. The first time I looked at the specs for timing I thought it was a misprint. It says 1 deg. BTDC to 1 deg ATDC for 95s and 9 to 11 deg BTDC for all others. After confusing myself with the web-info and setting it wrong, I took another look and it made sense.

If there is someone out there with a 95 and a yellow mark speak up. At first I though maybe my car just has a pre-94 pulley, but that can't be, because the mark is ten deg. BTDC not zero. I believe this is a significant oversight since it is possible to cause engine damage if detonation becomes to severe. Running around with 25 deg advance in Texas heat is really pressing your luck.

I haven't had a chance to check it yet, but now I'm worried :ohdear:

8th-snype
Aug 28, 2005

My office is in the front room of a run-down 12 megapixel sensor but the rent suits me and the landlord doesn't ask many questions.

Dorkroom Short Fiction Champion 2012


Young Orc

leica posted:

Oh and I just found out that 1995 Miatas have a timing anomaly that not many people know about, and there's a chance my Miata has been running at 25 degrees BTDC for most of it's life! No wonder I've been getting horrible detonation.

From the Miata.net garage section:


I haven't had a chance to check it yet, but now I'm worried :ohdear:

You would notice if it was at 25 degrees. My car pings at anything over 12 degrees advanced in the summer and it isn't especially hot up here in Seattle.

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

Yeah 25 is pretty high, I'm just hoping it's not over 14. Hopefully I can adjust it back to 10 because if not, then the only other explanation for the detonation is deposits in the combustion chambers, or maybe the whole #4 cylinder over heating.

n8r
Jul 3, 2003

I helped Lowtax become a cyborg and all I got was this lousy avatar

opengl128 posted:

Do the rubber boots, but also do all the shifter bushings, and change the turret oil. Should fix you right up.

I bet something broke if it rapidly went from good to bad. I'd wager an engine/transmission mount or possibly a linkage issue.

Guinness
Sep 15, 2004

leica posted:

Oh and I just found out that 1995 Miatas have a timing anomaly that not many people know about

That might explain why my 95 had some minor pinging under heavy load, hmm...

Oh well, car is long gone now and it never caused any problems in the 4 years I had it, it was just a small mystery that I never solved.

Ziploc
Sep 19, 2006
MX-5

n8r posted:

I bet something broke if it rapidly went from good to bad. I'd wager an engine/transmission mount or possibly a linkage issue.

I doubt any of these. I'm going to guess the little bushing at the bottom of the shifter broke/fell off.

http://www.miata.net/garage/trans/29.jpg

Atomizer
Jun 24, 2007



Hey, it's been a while since I last posted in this thread, but I got a new(er) Miata and have a question about getting another set of wheels for the Winter.

Currently the car has 205/40-17 Summer tires on the stock rims. I have the set of 15" stock rims from my last Miata, and I could get 195/55-15 snow tires that would have almost a perfect match for rolling diameter as the current wheels. Tirerack suggests only 16" setups for Winter: "Recommended: 205/45-16, Alternate: 195/50-16."

I have no problem buying a set of 16" steelies if that's by far the best option, although then I'd also have to get rid of the 15" rims. I figure if the 195/55-15 setup would work perfectly without having any weird handling characteristics due to being much higher-profile I'd just go this route for the sake of simplicity. I don't need extreme Winter performance, I just want to get through the snow safely.

Also, with that in mind would anybody recommend a specific snow tire for the sizes listed above? For 195/55-15 the Michelin X-Ice seems to be very highly rated. Again, I'm mainly looking for poor-weather traction, (and limited noise would be nice; the snow tires on my last car made an obnoxious humming noise at speed!) not necessarily great treadwear, and price is not an issue.

Phone
Jul 30, 2005

親子丼をほしい。
I don't think that 15" wheels will clear the brakes on an NC.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Are we talking about trying to run NA/NB wheels on an NC? There's also the issue of the NA/NB being four-lug and the NC being five-lug. Or are you just taking the tires off of older wheels? I'm confused.

revmoo
May 25, 2006

#basta

mattdizzleZ28 posted:

Besides noise, what is the point of a smaller pipe for NA? I've been told the miata gains nothing from backpressure.

Backpressure, no, scavenging, probably.

salt the fries!
Dec 24, 2005
Hey have I mentioned yet that my license plate is "TOA5TER"? See, it's kyoot because it's a boxy car! ^_^
I never really thought I'd be joining this thread, but I picked up a '96 M-edition today. The paint is rough and the miles are high, but it runs well and it's in good enough shape for me. Sadly, right now it's stuck about 75 miles away as I had THREE tag agencies give me false information about what I could and couldn't do, so both times I've gone to see it I've come back empty handed.. Going to pick it up tomorrow.

Atomizer
Jun 24, 2007



IOwnCalculus posted:

Are we talking about trying to run NA/NB wheels on an NC? There's also the issue of the NA/NB being four-lug and the NC being five-lug. Or are you just taking the tires off of older wheels? I'm confused.

Oh wow, sorry, I suppose I should've been more specific about the cars & the rims. We're talking NA to NB, so both are four-lug. I have the 15" Enkei special edition rims from my last '97 STO and the current car is an '05 Mazdaspeed with 17" Racing Hart rims. I'd be pulling the tires off the 15" rims and replacing them with snow tires.

I didn't even realize the smaller rims might not clear the front discs. I suppose I could wheel them out to compare. I was so focused on whether or not performance would be terrible with a completely different wheel setup.

Sadi
Jan 18, 2005
SC - Where there are more rednecks than people

Atomizer posted:

Oh wow, sorry, I suppose I should've been more specific about the cars & the rims. We're talking NA to NB, so both are four-lug. I have the 15" Enkei special edition rims from my last '97 STO and the current car is an '05 Mazdaspeed with 17" Racing Hart rims. I'd be pulling the tires off the 15" rims and replacing them with snow tires.

I didn't even realize the smaller rims might not clear the front discs. I suppose I could wheel them out to compare. I was so focused on whether or not performance would be terrible with a completely different wheel setup.

I dont know about the wheels fitting. As far as tires fitting I could tell you I have two sets of factory wheels. One is 15x6 with 45 offset, I have 205/55R15 on them. They rub at full lock. The other set is 15x6 with 40 offset, I have 225/45R15s on them, they are awesome (RS3s) but the ride suck rear end.

EDIT: After typing this I just realized you have an NB, I'm talking about a NA so I guess none of this applies.

Flesh Croissant
Apr 23, 2010

by FactsAreUseless
I think most 15 inch wheels should clear the mazdaspeed brakes. My girlfriend has an 03 LS (mazdaspeed without the turbo) and swapped out the heavy 17s for some 15 inch wheels. Clears the brakes just fine.

A few 15s with weird inner barrel shapes do not work, notably the 6UL and RPF1

Phone
Jul 30, 2005

親子丼をほしい。
There's nothing special about the MSM brakes. You'll be fine with 15" wheels.

magnificent7
Sep 22, 2005

THUNDERDOME LOSER
What can I do to make my 1990 Miata stereo audible on the highway? Replace the headrest speakers? When I have my radio up to about 70%, the sound crackles and clips. And yet it just isn't loud enough on the highway.

Help me.

EDIT:
I bought my Miata a year ago thanks to some great advice from this forum. I love the poo poo out of it! It's time for a new top, but having gone through this forum, it looks like my best bet is getting it installed instead of DIY.

magnificent7 fucked around with this message at 18:35 on Oct 10, 2012

craig588
Nov 19, 2005

by Nyc_Tattoo
I removed the headrest speakers because they're blown out after 10+ years of "outdoor" use. There's no really good replacement options for them, even if you do cut out the foam in the seats to fit something slightly larger, there isn't any speaker explicitly designed to go in that position. They're not really helping anything except giving me a headache. That's all arguable though, if you really like them then there are replacements that will sound better than the factory ones.

I replaced the door speakers with 2 Infinity 60 watt 6.5 inch speakers, but that's just because I have a preference to Harman/Kardon. I'm sure any decent brand 6.5 inch speaker will work fine.

Factory radio used to be unlistenable with the top down on the highway, now it sounds fine and additionally sounds better with the top up at lower volumes because of the fresher high quality speakers.

Phone
Jul 30, 2005

親子丼をほしい。
I have Blaupunkt PCx352 in both of my headrests. Looks like they are sold out/discontinued everywhere though. Want to buy a set of seats in 2 months? :v:

magnificent7
Sep 22, 2005

THUNDERDOME LOSER
I'm living the cheap-rear end life in my Miata. New seats? That's probably #6 on my list of things for the car.

winter.mute
Jan 5, 2010
91 BRG Miata up for sale.
posted in the marketplace thread for anyone interested

8th-snype
Aug 28, 2005

My office is in the front room of a run-down 12 megapixel sensor but the rent suits me and the landlord doesn't ask many questions.

Dorkroom Short Fiction Champion 2012


Young Orc

magnificent7 posted:

What can I do to make my 1990 Miata stereo audible on the highway? Replace the headrest speakers? When I have my radio up to about 70%, the sound crackles and clips. And yet it just isn't loud enough on the highway.

Help me.

EDIT:
I bought my Miata a year ago thanks to some great advice from this forum. I love the poo poo out of it! It's time for a new top, but having gone through this forum, it looks like my best bet is getting it installed instead of DIY.

I just went to best buy and bought whatever Sony Explode speakers fit in the door and mine is audible on the highway. I couldn't imagine spending too much money on speakers for a car that is loud as gently caress on the highway top up or not.

salt the fries!
Dec 24, 2005
Hey have I mentioned yet that my license plate is "TOA5TER"? See, it's kyoot because it's a boxy car! ^_^
I've got a bit of a squeal in my '96, and haven't really investigated too much. It's proportional to road speed (not engine speed), but that's about all I can say definitively. It comes and goes but I can't give any exact idea what causes that.

I thought it might be a belt but it's not proportional in cadence to the engine speed. Regardless, I threw my PS/AC belt yesterday and re-installed and re-adjusted both belts which appear to be in good shape.

So, other thoughts are brakes, bearings, or diff.

I'm planning on redoing the brakes anyway, at least new pads and calipers. Any thoughts on the 949Racing kit? It's not a bad price overall for a package, and I've heard some okay things about the pads they offer. However, I don't really know if I could do better with something off the shelf for cheaper since I'm going to be doing almost exclusively street driving.

Bearings should probably get looked at anyway, so I figured I'd do the front hubs. Everything I can find for parts seems to be no-name and I'm not sure what to do from there. There's a wide variety of prices, and as much as I'd love to pay $50 for a pair from eBay, that seems like maybe not the best idea. Recommendations?

Also, rear bearings... I don't have a press. Any suggestions there? Buy new rear hubs too? Might not be too bad of an option.

And if it is the diff (I pray not...), what can I do? Any service on it or is a squeal indicative of it being shot?

Thanks for any advice, after I get an engine once-over and this safety stuff all done I plan on moving to the slightly more interesting stuff.

Jean Eric Burn
Nov 10, 2007

The speedometer cable can also make all sorts of horrible (speed based) noises.

You can shut off the engine and clutch in on a downhill coast to isolate the problem as non-engine.

Jean Eric Burn fucked around with this message at 23:52 on Oct 14, 2012

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

by Fluffdaddy
Is anyone running 14" on their NBs for winter wheels? I had to dump PO's 15" snow tires as they were bald as gently caress and I was drifting around everywhere last winter but now I'm looking to pick up some 175/65 R14 tires or a similar size for this season. They seem to be cheaper and easier to find, plus not as ridiculously low profile. For reference, the stock size is 195/55 R15.

salt the fries!
Dec 24, 2005
Hey have I mentioned yet that my license plate is "TOA5TER"? See, it's kyoot because it's a boxy car! ^_^

Piano posted:


You can shut off the engine and clutch in on a downhill coast to isolate the problem as non-engine.

Downhill? In Florida?!

Haha, I'll have to try to find at least a long straight road... Otherwise a parking garage. I'm fairly certain it's non-engine though.

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




mobby_6kl posted:

Is anyone running 14" on their NBs for winter wheels? I had to dump PO's 15" snow tires as they were bald as gently caress and I was drifting around everywhere last winter but now I'm looking to pick up some 175/65 R14 tires or a similar size for this season. They seem to be cheaper and easier to find, plus not as ridiculously low profile. For reference, the stock size is 195/55 R15.

I'm pretty sure stock size for an NB is 195/50/15. Either way, I run 185/55/14's for winter.

Mezmerized Machine
Dec 29, 2008

salt the fries! posted:

I've got a bit of a squeal in my '96

I had to replace the speedometer cable in my '96 about a year ago. The squeak would start at ~20mph, and once I hit 40 it would be unbearably loud. Unfortunately I don't know any way to test it other than testing for everything else, but that could very well be the case.

salt the fries!
Dec 24, 2005
Hey have I mentioned yet that my license plate is "TOA5TER"? See, it's kyoot because it's a boxy car! ^_^

Mezmerized Machine posted:

I had to replace the speedometer cable in my '96 about a year ago. The squeak would start at ~20mph, and once I hit 40 it would be unbearably loud. Unfortunately I don't know any way to test it other than testing for everything else, but that could very well be the case.

how big of a job is it? I just went for a drive and that sounds similar, although I do get the squeak at lower speeds as well. It sounds like it's from the right side, and if I had to guess I'd say the front, but that's really hard for me to tell while driving.

E: and I just thought about it, my speedo has a slight pulse to it (maybe 5mph bounce, no more). Possibly related?

E2: just googled it, doesn't sound too horrible, depending on what I pay for the cable. Any recommendations on a source?

salt the fries! fucked around with this message at 01:35 on Oct 15, 2012

Jean Eric Burn
Nov 10, 2007

I suppose to test it you can just disconnect it at the transmission, zip tie the end to the subframe or something and go for a drive. I don't remember if it holds back any fluid(?)

Mine would squeak right behind the gauge cluster and you could kinda tell if you put you ear up to that area.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





mobby_6kl posted:

Is anyone running 14" on their NBs for winter wheels? I had to dump PO's 15" snow tires as they were bald as gently caress and I was drifting around everywhere last winter but now I'm looking to pick up some 175/65 R14 tires or a similar size for this season. They seem to be cheaper and easier to find, plus not as ridiculously low profile. For reference, the stock size is 195/55 R15.

You could get the early NB (like my old '99) with 14" wheels, and the factory size was 185/60R14. Hard to find these days, though, and 195/60R14 fits just fine.

I had to do front brakes on that car again; the pads on it probably lasted drat near 60k. Why the hell did Mazda decide to use a 14mm bolt on the top of the caliper and a 17mm or 18mm or whatever it was on the bottom?

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MiniFoo
Dec 25, 2006

METHAMPHETAMINE

Piano posted:

I suppose to test it you can just disconnect it at the transmission, zip tie the end to the subframe or something and go for a drive. I don't remember if it holds back any fluid(?)

If it's anything like my RX-7 (spoilers, it is exactly the same), then removing the driven gear at the transmission is going to spew all the gear oil out onto the road through the hole that's left behind. If the speedo cable can be disconnected from the driven gear, however, then that might work.

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