|
Tigertron posted:I just finished rebuilding my carburetors on an '83 Honda cb650sc and was left with two springs that for the life of me I can't seem to find where they go. BAM 
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2011 01:05
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 4, 2024 14:58 |
|
|
Sweet! Thank You
|
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2011 01:42
|
|
|
AhhYes posted:I got the valves adjusted just over 1k miles ago, so I'm almost positive it isn't that. Okay, your valves aren't the issue then. The next step is to start eliminating possibilities. Checking for a spark/electrical issue is pretty straightforward (...usually). Remove a spark plug, connect it to the boot, and ground it against the engine. Now thumb the starter and see if you get a spark. While you've got the plug out, you can also check the condition of it. Black and sooty means running rich, pure white means running lean, and if it looks melted then it's REALLY lean. If it's wet (if you'd recently been cranking the engine) then that means gas is getting to the plug but it's not igniting it, for whatever reason (usually no spark). It should be a tan or coffee color. And yes, having your bike "warm up" for more than three minutes is unnecessary. Bikes warm up the best when they're actually under load and moving anyway, as the heat is circulated through the entire engine block. It's never efficient for an engine to just sit there at idle trying to warm up. Unfortunately I'm not too knowledgeable on fuel injection but in general if there's an injector problem you pretty much have to pay for a replacement rather than fix it yourself. FuzzyWuzzyBear fucked around with this message at 07:25 on Feb 9, 2011 |
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2011 07:23
|
|
|
Random CV carb question. We all know that emulsion tubes (needle jets) like to oval after awhile. This is usually casued by worn plastic slide guides, right? What if one was to apply a dry lubricant like dry graphite to the slide guides where the CV slide rubs on them? Would that help at all, or just add graphite dust into the carbs/engine? MrZig fucked around with this message at 08:09 on Feb 9, 2011 |
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2011 08:02
|
|
|
Tigertron posted:Sweet! Thank You No problemo 
|
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2011 21:33
|
|
|
My '01 F4i has been sitting for a few months after it started having trouble staying running while going fast down the freeway. Weather is turning and I'm tired of looking at it wasting away while I drive my beater to work. What's wrong with my bike? This is from, gosh, six or so months ago so I'm going to describe the problems as best I can. It initially began as problems catching when starting - a simple ignition push would die instantly. I had to rev it up to 8k or so for a couple of seconds to keep the ignition going and get it to idle. Replaced the stock battery and it helped for a couple of days but the problem returned, but it was ridable so I put it off. Then it died on me while I was driving home on the freeway at 80 (or higher *cough*) mph. The engine flat out died while the electrics still worked (i.e. headlight, instrument panel etc). A fascinating experience in not panicking. Pulled over, got it to restart and I took surface streets home not going above 2nd. After that it was Car Time. I've done regular oil changes, replaced the battery and chain but everything else is essentially stock. Around 27,000 miles on the bike. I've run it for a few minutes now and again and while sluggish to catch (from not being used often enough) it holds idle fine. Bit rich. Possibilities? Fuel filter, fuel injector, spark plugs? Valves wouldn't be relevant? Interestingly enough my brother had an 02 F4i that developed idle problems around this milage, he never could get it sorted out and just sold it hosed up.
|
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2011 23:59
|
|
|
Check your charging system.
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2011 05:07
|
|
|
Ammanas posted:My '01 F4i has been sitting for a few months after it started having trouble staying running while going fast down the freeway. Weather is turning and I'm tired of looking at it wasting away while I drive my beater to work.  From a honda of a much older vintage, but the reason and the solution is likely the same. If you need more details on how to check your charging system post up and we'll walk you through the process. You probably have a fried Regulator/rectifier, easy to diagnose and fix if you have a multimeter.
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2011 05:42
|
|
|
Yeah more info please
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2011 23:40
|
|
|
Ok, there's 3 parts that make up a charging system. First is your battery. Obvious, and simple. Check it, charge it, it should maintain a voltage of about 12.8v overnight. You can also get it tested at your local auto shop. The first step is ALWAYS to make sure your battery is good. I've seen batteries fail in very strange ways that play hell with charging system diagnosis. With the bike on, and running at 5k, you should see ~14v DC at the battery. If you do not, you have a problem with your charging system. The next thing to check is the stator. It mounts to your engine casing, and creates AC current thanks to a large set of rotating magnets attached to the crank. You'll see 3 yellow wires coming off the left side engine cover, trace those up to a connector, and disconnect it. Once you have the connector disconnected, inspect the wiring for any damaged connectors or burned/shorted wires. It should be pretty obvious, and look like something like this:  You need to check those 3 wires with the bike reved up to 5k and the multimeter set to AC Volts. Check them 1->2, 2->3, and 1->3. You should get a consistent 40-60v AC across the 3 sets of wires. Also, check from one of the wires to an unpainted part of the engine. If you get more than ~10-15v AC in bleed over, then your stator is grounding out, and needs to be replaced. If you're not getting 40-60v across all 3 wires, your stator has failed, and needs to be replaced. If you're good on the stator, then it's time to move on to the regulator/rectifier. It converts the AC voltage from the stator to 14v DC for the battery to charge off of. If you're getting good AC power out of the stator but not 14v DC at the battery at 5k RPM, then either your R/R has failed or a connector or your wiring harness has burned up. To make it easy you can use a wiring harness diagram and your multimeter to make sure all of the wires are intact with minimal resistance. If the R/R has failed, there's no fixing it, it just needs to be replaced. I have seen connectors fail but the R/R still be functional, so hardwiring them together can be worth a shot there's been a failure at the connector but the R/R is still ok. If you can, temporarily hook things up with jumper leads so that you can test before you go hacking apart the stock wiring harness. 80% of the time these failures are R/R failures. 15% of the time it's a wiring failure, and the other 5% of the time it's a stator failure. Ocassionally you'll burn up the wiring harness when the R/R or stator fails, too, so check carefully. Wiring harness issues and charging problems are pretty simple but patience and being thorough is the key to fixing them right. Good luck, post up if anything's unclear or you have any additional questions
|
|
#
?
Feb 11, 2011 00:21
|
|
|
Wait, the stator is 3 phase? I did not know that, that's pretty cool. Is this always the case with charging systems?
|
|
#
?
Feb 11, 2011 13:41
|
|
|
Generally, yes.
|
|
#
?
Feb 11, 2011 14:56
|
|
|
Z3n posted:80% of the time these failures are R/R failures. 15% of the time it's a wiring failure, and the other 5% of the time it's a stator failure. Ocassionally you'll burn up the wiring harness when the R/R or stator fails, too, so check carefully. Wiring harness issues and charging problems are pretty simple but patience and being thorough is the key to fixing them right. Seriously. Get skilled in troubleshooting motorcycle charging systems, and suddenly all those cheap bikes in the paper that "just won't hold a charge" or has a battery that "just keeps dying" become much more attractive. You won't get bent over by a shop to fix a charging issue on your bike either. The last bike I bought wouldn't charge and the shop quoted the owner almost a grand to fix it. It needed a stator, a regulator and some repair to the wiring harness after someone tried to jump start it by hooking it to a car. While the car was running. With the cable polarity reversed. I paid him 600 for it, dropped another 150 on a stator, a R/R and some wiring terminals, and the bike was fine.
|
|
#
?
Feb 11, 2011 17:55
|
|
|
Newb question... I checked my brake fluid level and it appears to be low. Do I need to totally bleed the brakes and put in new fluid, or can I just top it off with more of the recommended fluid? I don't know what the previous owner used.
|
|
#
?
Feb 11, 2011 23:55
|
|
|
"[panic posted:"] Does the lever feel squishy? Can you pull it quite close to the handlebar? While a flush and bleed would do your brakes and your skills good, if the lever is fairly solid and there are no obvious signs of leaks, you can just top off the fluid while postponing and learning about how to do a brake bleed on our bike. Once topped off, keep an eye on the level. Mine has sunken quite a bit the last months I was riding and bikes don't consume brake fluid, there is a leak somewhere - which both expels fluid and ingests air.
|
|
#
?
Feb 12, 2011 00:44
|
|
|
Ola posted:Does the lever feel squishy? Can you pull it quite close to the handlebar? While a flush and bleed would do your brakes and your skills good, if the lever is fairly solid and there are no obvious signs of leaks, you can just top off the fluid while postponing and learning about how to do a brake bleed on our bike. Once topped off, keep an eye on the level. Mine has sunken quite a bit the last months I was riding and bikes don't consume brake fluid, there is a leak somewhere - which both expels fluid and ingests air. Brake fluid is consumed at exactly the same rate that pads are consumed! 
|
|
#
?
Feb 12, 2011 00:55
|
|
|
Z3n posted:Brake fluid is consumed at exactly the same rate that pads are consumed! How does that work? I was under the impression that what Ola said (shouldn't go down, else you have a leak) was the proper method on cars and bikes.
|
|
#
?
Feb 12, 2011 00:59
|
|
|
Xenoid posted:How does that work? I was under the impression that what Ola said (shouldn't go down, else you have a leak) was the proper method on cars and bikes. As your brake pad wears, the piston(s) push out (because the calipers are hard mounted), "sucking" fluid down the lines and lowering the level in your reservoir. This happens over an extended period of time, so unless you are abusing your brakes like a mad man (or the caliper is seized..) then you could have a leak if it's getting low within a couple months.
|
|
#
?
Feb 12, 2011 01:03
|
|
|
The bike had about 22,000 miles when I got it and this is the first time I have really checked the level on the brake fluid, so it could have been like this for a while. I should have checked this long ago, but I'm an idiot about maintenance stuff and I'm still learning. Thanks everyone for the advice.
|
|
#
?
Feb 12, 2011 05:39
|
|
|
Speaking of electrical systems I have the most notorious of all the '83 honda cb650sc (disclaimer: this is the sole opinion of the owner). I think that my stator is shot according to my clymers manual. It passes all the ohm readings as does the r/r. My problem is that each of the three yellow leads have continuity with ground, white & black do not. The clymers manual writes that off as an instant replacement. What reason would it have for this other than all the electricity generated is sent straight to ground rather than the battery? Is there a simple fix? I also found a green plastic washer that was totally destroyed/melted between the inner rotor and the stator assembly. I was told it is only for protecting against debris & oil. Does it perhaps function as an insulator for ground?
|
|
#
?
Feb 12, 2011 05:41
|
|
|
What does CA think of cop bikes, specifically BMWs that are about 9-10 years old with around 100,000 miles on them? There are a lot of ex-CHP bikes in the area, and it's tempting to get on a BMW for a steal. Is there a pretty good reason these bikes are retired at that age, though?
|
|
#
?
Feb 12, 2011 17:51
|
|
|
Radbot posted:What does CA think of cop bikes, specifically BMWs that are about 9-10 years old with around 100,000 miles on them? There are a lot of ex-CHP bikes in the area, and it's tempting to get on a BMW for a steal. Is there a pretty good reason these bikes are retired at that age, though?
|
|
#
?
Feb 12, 2011 20:30
|
|
|
Something weird happened while I was riding my bike home from work. I was driving down the street and all of a sudden its like I had no power, I thought maybe I missed a shift so I went down a gear and got back on the throttle a little, and it was like there was some sort of rev limiter loving with me, then it died. I pulled over and started it up, and went on my way again. Then it happened one more time, pulled over, started it again, and took off. I am not sure if it is something I just did wrong, or if there is a legitimate problem.
|
|
#
?
Feb 12, 2011 22:21
|
|
|
You ran out of gas, switch to reserve.
|
|
#
?
Feb 12, 2011 22:32
|
|
|
Thats what I had thought at first, but I didn't think I had gone far enough to drain the tank yet. I will have to go check the odometer and see how many miles I have put on it since I filled up.
|
|
#
?
Feb 12, 2011 22:39
|
|
|
on my DRZ it was possible to get as low as 70 miles on a tank if you were hammering it. 100 is when I'd fill up. Reserve was usually around 120.
|
|
#
?
Feb 12, 2011 23:03
|
|
|
I was just thinking that the second time it happened it didn't want to start, so I switched it to reserve and it started up. At the time I just assumed I had flooded it, but perhaps it is running empty. I will take it to the gas station and fill it up, and see how much I get in there.
|
|
#
?
Feb 12, 2011 23:27
|
|
|
I went out to start it with the pitcock in the on position and it wouldnt start, put it to reserve and it started up. Went to the gas station and filled it up, and it took 1.7616 gallons. Started it with the pitcock in the on position, and it started right up. How much of the tank is generally reserved for reserve capacity?
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2011 00:14
|
|
|
Depends entirely on the bike, knowing what you ride would be helpful in determining how much gas your fuel tank holds in reserve. It can be a few cups or a few gallons.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2011 00:21
|
|
|
Porkchop Express posted:I went out to start it with the pitcock in the on position and it wouldnt start, put it to reserve and it started up. Went to the gas station and filled it up, and it took 1.7616 gallons. Started it with the pitcock in the on position, and it started right up. How much of the tank is generally reserved for reserve capacity? DRZ: 2.6 Gallon Tank Fuel petcock in ON position: 2.0 Gallons Reserve: .6 Gallons So... how many miles did you get?
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2011 00:27
|
|
|
Trip meter said 148 miles, but I think it was actually a few less, because it wasn't reset when I bought it and was fueled up. I will ride it again and see how many I put on now that I have personally reset it.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2011 00:34
|
|
|
Are you filling it to the top or just shoving the pump in until it clicks off? You need to manually fill it to the top, motorcycle tanks don't play nice with autoshutoff pumps.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2011 09:16
|
|
|
Porkchop Express posted:How much of the tank is generally reserved for reserve capacity? For Japanese bikes typically about 2½ liter (or about a little less than 0.7 gallon if you really insist on stupid non-metric units).
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2011 11:59
|
|
|
Radbot posted:What does CA think of cop bikes, specifically BMWs that are about 9-10 years old with around 100,000 miles on them? There are a lot of ex-CHP bikes in the area, and it's tempting to get on a BMW for a steal. Is there a pretty good reason these bikes are retired at that age, though? I had an old Kawasaki Police 1000 that had previously lived as a Denver Colorado Airport Patrol bike. At 34,000 miles it was considered low mileage. I had tons of electrical problems from where all the cop poo poo was removed. (Lights, radio box, etc.) In addition some parts were stupid expensive. The original tires were run flats and a new set would have literally cost more than I paid for the bike. It was a fun bike but I had to get rid of it once I got Sport Bike, I never looked back. Oh, the worst part was having people SLAM ON THEIR BRAKES on the highway when they thought I was a cop. I don't know anything about the BMW's but I would assume the same problems would exist. (lovely wiring hack jobs, clapped out mistreated bike, expensive/rare parts) 
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2011 15:48
|
|
|
Man people just slam on their brakes? That sounds dangerous, I always thought they'd actually just move out of your way. We have one of those KZ1000 police bikes in our class, it's pretty much IMPOSSIBLE to get it onto the centerstand without some help.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2011 18:46
|
|
|
infraboy posted:Man people just slam on their brakes? That sounds dangerous, I always thought they'd actually just move out of your way. It happened enough times that I got used to it. I bought the bike to be more visible but it didn't stop a Ford F-250 from making a left turn in front of me. I had no problems getting it on the center stand and I weigh 170. It's all about technique! (and having a sliver of wood to raise the back tire slightly.)
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2011 00:32
|
|
|
Anyone know the story behind this bike? Tineye has nothing and I don't recognize the C-eyed smiley face logo. Edit: got some info. It was made by See See Motorcycles and was in a past motorcycle show in Portland OR. No idea what it is still. Marvin K. Mooney fucked around with this message at 02:36 on Feb 14, 2011 |
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2011 02:23
|
|
|
Yamaha dirtbike chop?
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2011 03:11
|
|
|
Z3n posted:Are you filling it to the top or just shoving the pump in until it clicks off? You need to manually fill it to the top, motorcycle tanks don't play nice with autoshutoff pumps. I filled it until it shut off, then tried to pack a little bit more in to the tank. Its been running fine all day though. (With the exception when my roommate was riding it around the street, he killed it trying to take off and then apparently tried to start it over and over again, and then it wouldn't start. I am assuming there is some sort of thermal overload on the starter? All I know is its the last time I let him touch my bike.)
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2011 03:23
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 4, 2024 14:58 |
|
|
I'm 99% sure I want to buy a Triumph Street Triple R. It looks like I'll be purchasing a 2011 model next weekend, but I've never bought a bike from a dealer before. The closest Triumph dealer has everything tagged at MSRP ($9,599) + ~400 freight and ~300 set up fees. I've chatted with them a couple times now, and they have said everything is negotiable, just make and offer. Honestly, I like this dealer, they have what I want, and I'd like a painless and simple purchase. From what I've read, the freight and setup fees are kind of BS, and there's around a 15% difference between invoice and MSRP. And obviously, sales tax and other state and DMV fees are fixed. So, my dilemma is what exactly constitutes a 'fair' price for the bike. My current thought is something like $9000 + tax/title/reg seems fair. Is that way out of line, either too high or low? If it matters, I'm buying outright, not financing (unless there's a reason to finance?). And, while I'm asking, is it realistic to ask for accessories at cost as part of the purchase?
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2011 03:26
|
|
