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The one on the swingarm, above the chain.
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Apr 24, 2011 00:10
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CSi-NA-EJ7 posted:You are helping to keep that shop in business, Here in Nebraska we had a really awesome bike gear shop that went under a couple years ago. I bought a jacket and a helmet there for a little bit more than the going internet price but I liked having a shop with good gear to try on.  "No thanks, ma'am, I'm not looking to buy new. I WILL lay it down at some point." "<motherly> Oh, that's not true."What octane rating does a bike need? Say, something like a Ninja 250. Will it run fine on 87? Fifty Three fucked around with this message at 00:37 on Apr 24, 2011 |
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Apr 24, 2011 00:35
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Fifty Three posted:True. The lady that worked there was really nice, even if she did try to sell me some new Honda 250 that they were getting in soon. Can't blame her. Yea, 87 is fine for most bikes.
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Apr 24, 2011 01:05
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Ola posted:I guess I knew it could be that, but some horror protection center in my mind wouldn't let me think it. My deepest condolences. You sure have taken more than your fair share of mechanical poo poo. I will burn a candle for you tonight. But stay strong, stay true. Go into the breach once more my friend. If nothing else, we'll get some good pics of the carnage. Exhaust #1 valves were toast, one of them burnt so bad it left a huge gap for air to come through. Going to swap the head off the parts bike and it should be good. Whew, relatively easy fix. Also I put 80PSI of air into all the cylinders, and the intake of #2 was leaking super bad, yet it had 150PSI compression. Weird.
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Apr 24, 2011 01:13
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the walkin dude posted:The one on the swingarm, above the chain. Not really a problem as long as you're not doing something stupid, although I have heard about people crashing and getting body parts fed into the rear sprocket.
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Apr 24, 2011 01:27
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obso posted:Does it have trouble starting threw the whole tank of gas? Or is it just hard to start after the initial fillup? It only has trouble after the initial fillup - it starts just fine for the rest of the tank.
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Apr 24, 2011 02:38
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So I was trying to take the intake boots off my 'new' head so I can replace the o rings, and I got two off no problem but the last two snapped both of my impact driver's phillups bits. They've since rounded off and I don't know how to get them off. Screw extractor?
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Apr 24, 2011 03:39
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MrZig posted:So I was trying to take the intake boots off my 'new' head so I can replace the o rings, and I got two off no problem but the last two snapped both of my impact driver's phillups bits. They've since rounded off and I don't know how to get them off. Give it a whirl. This same thing happened to me with my brake reservoir screws the other day. I'll never, ever loving understand why they make those drat things out of the softest metals possible. I wish I had an external brake fluid reservoir in the front like on R6's and such 
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Apr 24, 2011 06:13
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MrZig posted:Exhaust #1 valves were toast, one of them burnt so bad it left a huge gap for air to come through. Going to swap the head off the parts bike and it should be good. Whew, relatively easy fix. Oh good, not the worst thing then. Keep in mind there's probably a reason #1 burned, could it have been running lean?
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Apr 24, 2011 07:38
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JP Money posted:Give it a whirl. This same thing happened to me with my brake reservoir screws the other day. I'll never, ever loving understand why they make those drat things out of the softest metals possible. Get yourself a nice brembo brake master cylinder. Thats what I did to my Ducati with the ugly coffin style reservoirs. Now I can see my brake fluids
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Apr 24, 2011 12:11
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What's the point really with all the brake upgrades on modern bikes? When I run my sumo setup on my DRZ with the 320mm rotor up front it stops fast enough it feels like my lips are going to tear off. If I dare take it on dirt they also lock up solid if I so much as look at them the wrong way. This is with stock brake lines and stock caliper and cheap-rear end brake fluid. Everyone tells me to get SS braided lines but I don't see the point. Is it just about doing one-fingered stoppies or is there something about brake "feel" and response that I won't know until I actually experience it?
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Apr 24, 2011 12:43
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Symphoric posted:What's the point really with all the brake upgrades on modern bikes? When I run my sumo setup on my DRZ with the 320mm rotor up front it stops fast enough it feels like my lips are going to tear off. If I dare take it on dirt they also lock up solid if I so much as look at them the wrong way. This is with stock brake lines and stock caliper and cheap-rear end brake fluid. It's because as your brakes heat up during heavy use, their performance goes down. Dramatically. Sure, you might be able to get a one fingered stoppie on cold brakes, but after 10 laps, you'll be pulling the lever all the way to the handle and wishing for more. If you're never going to ride at that level, then all those brake upgrades are probably just a waste of money. For people who do ride on the track, or compete, or whatever, they're happy to have a reserve.
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Apr 24, 2011 14:55
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^^^^ ^^^^Beaten, but with more words! Symphoric posted:What's the point really with all the brake upgrades on modern bikes? When I run my sumo setup on my DRZ with the 320mm rotor up front it stops fast enough it feels like my lips are going to tear off. If I dare take it on dirt they also lock up solid if I so much as look at them the wrong way. This is with stock brake lines and stock caliper and cheap-rear end brake fluid. On the street unless you're breaking about every law imaginable you're not going to come close to the limits of your brake system. Where you really see improvements over stock is at the track, where your bike experiences repeated hard braking from high speeds. drat near all brake upgrades are there to combat heat. Even on my CBR1000 which I thought had loving PHENOMENAL stock brakes after using it on the street for quite awhile didn't last on the track, even at a newbie's pace. Towards the end of my first track day (ever, on any bike) with it I had picked up enough speed to experience some fairly serious brake fade. I did not ever change the lines, but good brake fluid and some good, more track oriented pads helped TREMENDOUSLY. Before I sold that bike I was running upper I group to lower A group pace, and even with much stickier tires and much hotter ambient temps the thing just would not exhibit much fade at all. Same thing happened with my 625SMC the first time I took it to the track. The brakes worked freakin GREAT at street speeds, already had braided SS lines and a brembo caliper, I figured I was good just putting some good Motul RBF600 fluid in and calling it a day... nope. I had the scariest pad fade I've ever had in my life. Feel at the brake lever was great, I did not have any fluid fade so the lever wasn't coming any closer to the grip than normal. But the pads got WAAAAAAAAAAY out of their temp operating range. I think the biggest contributor to this was the lovely stock rotor. It was pretty thin so it's going to heat up faster than something beefier. After throwing some Vesrah pads and a good thick EBC rotor on there I have had no issues at all with it. needknees fucked around with this message at 15:00 on Apr 24, 2011 |
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Apr 24, 2011 14:57
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Thanks for letting me know how much my stock brakes are going to end up sucking 
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Apr 24, 2011 15:05
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lancemantis posted:Thanks for letting me know how much my stock brakes are going to end up sucking My first trackday wasn't too bad... I just wasn't going fast enough to really work the brakes. I got some fade for sure but nothing "threatening". I wouldn't worry about changing anything your first time out, unless you still have the original brake fluid in there which is probably due to be changed anyway. In that case throw some RBF600 in there and call it good. The good news is the fix for these brakes is a mere pad and fluid change. I never did upgrade to SS lines on the CBR, never saw the need to. e: I'm pretty sure the fade I had was more related to the fluid than anything. I bought my bike as a holdover, so the fluid had been in there for well over a year. It had plenty of time to suck up some moisture which is going to lower its wet boiling point substantially. needknees fucked around with this message at 15:16 on Apr 24, 2011 |
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Apr 24, 2011 15:12
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I will throw out there that moving to a Brembo master cylinder does make a huge difference. Modern brakes are decent to great depending on which bike you're riding, but a Brembo master cylinder paired with a modern braking system makes for some seriously amazing brakes. Pad and fluid fade is still an issue at track speeds, but even on the street an aftermarket, higher quality MC turns great brakes into astonishing ones. This is even true on bikes that run "Brembo" components stock...the Brembo components you buy from Brembo, aftermarket, are higher quality than the ones that are stamped with Brembo's logo stock. If I were upgrading a bike, the order of upgrades goes fluid/pads/mastercylinder/SS lines. Most of the gain people see out of SS lines on new, modern bikes is actually just getting fresh fluid in there, the flex in rubber lines only really shows up when you're initially braking and the lines expand slightly. Z3n fucked around with this message at 15:47 on Apr 24, 2011 |
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Apr 24, 2011 15:44
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I've been toying with buying an r6 master cylinder and seeing if that will work on the F4i but then I realize I'm not willing to put in that much effort. I just put SS lines on and it seems like it brakes much better - we'll see after my ride today. F4i's have pretty mushy levers no matter how much they are bled it seems - I loving hate that they don't have a bleeder at the MC thus you have to use the banjo to do so. My buddy's 07 ZX6 had a so-so lever feel until I bled his MC (which has an actual bleeder) and the drat thing went from so-so mush to rock hard in an instant. I want that
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Apr 24, 2011 15:51
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JP Money posted:I've been toying with buying an r6 master cylinder and seeing if that will work on the F4i but then I realize I'm not willing to put in that much effort. I just put SS lines on and it seems like it brakes much better - we'll see after my ride today. F4i's have pretty mushy levers no matter how much they are bled it seems - I loving hate that they don't have a bleeder at the MC thus you have to use the banjo to do so. My buddy's 07 ZX6 had a so-so lever feel until I bled his MC (which has an actual bleeder) and the drat thing went from so-so mush to rock hard in an instant. I want that Try forcing the pads in at the calipers with the top of the MC off. Sometimes that'll force a lot of air that's in the lines out. Any bike made in the last 15 years will have the capability of a rock hard lever if the system is bled correctly. And yes, the bleeder at the MC is fantastic. Oh, also try tapping the lines, fittings, and calipers to knock any persistent bubbles loose.
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Apr 24, 2011 16:04
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Ola posted:Oh good, not the worst thing then. Keep in mind there's probably a reason #1 burned, could it have been running lean? Really don't think it was running lean. Most likely it was the fact that when I first checked clerances, there were none. Pretty sure it was just the PO's maintenance free style of maintenance that caused it to burn up. Pretty stoked that its not the bottom end.
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Apr 24, 2011 16:25
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I see, thanks for the responses guys. My only experience motorcycle racing is in Hare Scrambles and brake fade was never really an issue for me then. I'd love to embarrass myself on a track someday so it looks like I might be looking into some brake upgrades after all.
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Apr 24, 2011 17:58
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So I hit a pretty big pothole last night turning into a gas station. I hit it hard enough that I got bumped off my seat and both the mirrors moved forward about an inch or two but didn't crash and quickly pulled over to check the front area. The ride home after that was fine but is there any way to test/check for other damages I may not know about (newbie here)?
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Apr 24, 2011 18:40
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kloa posted:
As long as it holds tire pressure and the suspension/steering doesn't feel different, I'd say you're fine.
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Apr 24, 2011 18:59
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kloa posted:So I hit a pretty big pothole last night turning into a gas station. I hit it hard enough that I got bumped off my seat and both the mirrors moved forward about an inch or two but didn't crash and quickly pulled over to check the front area. If it was anything like a huge pothole I hit once, you might want to check your balls for bruising. Man, that hurt. I pulled over so I could lie on the sidewalk and clutch my nads.
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Apr 24, 2011 19:32
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Z3n posted:Any bike made in the last 15 years will have the capability of a rock hard lever if the system is bled correctly. On the topic of brakes, Z3n do you have any personal experience with Galfer HH vs Vesrah RJL pads? I can get the Vesrah's for like $65 bucks a set compared to $40 for a set of Galfer's. Think it's worth it?
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Apr 24, 2011 19:41
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-Inu- posted:Am I the only one who isn't a huge fan of this? On the R6 with stainless lines and RBF 600 the lever moves maybe an inch and you're at full braking. I feel like it would be easier to give consistent braking if there were movement allowed. That's one of the things that is made better with an aftermarket master cylinder, especially on a 19x18 Brembo MC setup (the RCS allows for both 19x18 and 19x20, which is pretty awesome). The 19x18 allows more lever travel for a given amount of braking, the 19x20 means you brake harder for the same amount of lever pull. The other thing that affects that is pads. My current favorite pads are the EBC Extreme Pros, you should be able to get those, if not, let me know. They're expensive but super linear and they last for a long time. The Vesrah RJLs have a really strong initial bite, and the HHes are more of a street pad, with better performance from cold/in the rain. Basically, the question here is are you willing to sacrifice a bit of performance on the street for superior track performance? My experience with the Vesrahs in on my race SV was really positive, but on the street on a supermoto they tended to glaze up and be pretty numb until you got on them hard at least once. You might not have that problem because you're stopping quite a bit more weight from higher speeds. No experience with the EBC Extreme Pros on the street but on the track they were amazing, 2 finger stoppies and super controlable at the limit, I've never been able to consistently pull the back end of the bike 1-3 inches off the ground like that on any other bike or with any other pads. They didn't bite down super hard on initial squeeze of the lever, but instead were super linear and super controllable, no issues with modulation at the limits of the wheelbase. But again, everyone's got different tastes in pads...I also switched to Castrol SRF, which is expensive but the best brake fluid around. Still had fade issues in race conditions, but high end master cylinders have that left side lever adjuster setup for a reason...
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Apr 24, 2011 21:19
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Ola posted:As long as it holds tire pressure and the suspension/steering doesn't feel different, I'd say you're fine. I checked the pressure before I took it out for a spin earlier and it was the same PSI as before, so I'm guessing nothing was messed up. I was just unsure how easily forks and such bend. It ran fine and nothing felt different about it so I'm happy. hayden. posted:If it was anything like a huge pothole I hit once, you might want to check your balls for bruising. Man, that hurt. I pulled over so I could lie on the sidewalk and clutch my nads. Haha, luckily I was sitting back far enough that my balls were safe from impact.
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Apr 24, 2011 23:03
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kloa posted:I checked the pressure before I took it out for a spin earlier and it was the same PSI as before, so I'm guessing nothing was messed up. I was just unsure how easily forks and such bend. It ran fine and nothing felt different about it so I'm happy. A big pothole might bend the rim, but actually knocking the forks out of alignment would be super rare. You're probably fine, check the rim in case it's seriously bent, but I doubt it.
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Apr 24, 2011 23:15
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Does anyone know of affordable bar end mirrors that are actually functional? I really like the "cafe" style mirrors that come off the end of the bars and then wrap around over the handle grips. I really like Rizoma Reverse retro mirrors, but they require non-tapered bar ends. I've been having trouble finding non-tapered bar ends that aren't rizoma brand ($$$). for info, they will be going on an fz6 with a naked conversion.
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Apr 25, 2011 02:10
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Z3n posted:My current favorite pads are the EBC Extreme Pros, you should be able to get those, if not, let me know. They're expensive but super linear and they last for a long time. The Vesrah RJLs have a really strong initial bite, and the HHes are more of a street pad, with better performance from cold/in the rain. And holy gently caress, that brake fluid is insanely expensive. Though that may be partly because castrol only sells it in liters for some reason...
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Apr 25, 2011 02:33
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I'm looking to take a 3-4 day camping trip with my brother, both of us on bikes. I need a way to pack away some luggage on the bike. I've found this http://www.saddlemen.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=7098 and I'm having trouble finding something better for the price. Anyone have any experience with this product or this company? edit: I ride a 2003 Triumph Speed Four
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Apr 25, 2011 02:42
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TEASE MY NECKBEARD posted:Does anyone know of affordable bar end mirrors that are actually functional? I really like the "cafe" style mirrors that come off the end of the bars and then wrap around over the handle grips. I have CRG Hindsight Lane Split mirrors on my Monster and I love them. I actually had those Rizomas but I found they didn't work well with the body position on my Monster. The CRGs are perfect and give the same sort of look.
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Apr 25, 2011 07:20
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JohnnyDangerously posted:I'm looking to take a 3-4 day camping trip with my brother, both of us on bikes. I need a way to pack away some luggage on the bike. I've found this http://www.saddlemen.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=7098 and I'm having trouble finding something better for the price. Anyone have any experience with this product or this company? I'd look at one of these: http://www.rei.com/product/804286/the-north-face-base-camp-duffel-medium I know a lot of people who use them and they've all been really pleased with their durability and waterproofness.
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Apr 25, 2011 16:59
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PlasticSun posted:I'd look at one of these: http://www.rei.com/product/804286/the-north-face-base-camp-duffel-medium I know a lot of people who use them and they've all been really pleased with their durability and waterproofness. Or you can buy a generic dry bag for 20% of the cost of that thing. http://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C...bcec928b6585c3a
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Apr 25, 2011 17:07
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PlasticSun posted:I'd look at one of these: http://www.rei.com/product/804286/the-north-face-base-camp-duffel-medium I know a lot of people who use them and they've all been really pleased with their durability and waterproofness. Or just the REI one, which will no doubt be slightly better than the North Face version and without the logo for half the price. http://www.rei.com/product/747934/rei-cargo-weekender-bag
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Apr 25, 2011 22:01
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I apologize in advance for my "looking for some validation"/rant post. Its tough since I don't have any friends that ride. I started riding last year (MSF/First bike) on a '83 CB550SC. Its been fun, put about 750 miles (not nearly enough) on it between the city of Chicago and the burbs. There has been a near constant stream of minor issues with the bike, but up until now I've had some fun figuring them out then fixing them all. I rode for the first time this year Saturday and had that "Ahhhh yes, I've missed this feeling". Then yesterday the clutch wasn't working at all (tried in the morning, a few hours later, then that night). Its kind of a last straw deal. I'm going home to bleed the fluid and replace it, so hopefully that is all the issue is. But I wanted to do some serious miles this year to improve (also because god its so fun). I keep worrying about the NEXT issue that always seems to come up. Im about 90% of the way to selling it and buying a new bike. I know you guys are all "*Gasp* NEW?!" but at this point for me it feels like I want to know the history of the bike, I want to know that it has been taken care of. Am I totally crazy? I know its still that the frustration is so fresh in my mind, but god I just want to ride without a shitstorm of issues like the tubes in the fuel line are decaying.
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Apr 25, 2011 22:45
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ChiTownEddie posted:Am I totally crazy? I know its still that the frustration is so fresh in my mind, but god I just want to ride without a shitstorm of issues like the tubes in the fuel line are decaying. Crazy? Not at all, it's totally natural to get frustrated when your bike won't run. This is why, as much as the older UJMs can make great first bikes, I hesitate to recommend them unless the rider wants to wrench as much as they want to ride. The experience and mechanical care that is required to make them reliable just isn't usually there with new riders, unfortunately. But I'd urge you to avoid going out and dropping a bunch of cash on a new bike. Find something that's more modern and has a long model history, so you have a bunch of resources for fixing it, and a lot of parts floating around, as well as a relatively robust, proven engine design (GS500, Ninja 500, DRZ400, etc), and start getting mileage in. And new bikes are unfortunately no guarantee of quality performance. My friend's 2011 Aprilia Dorsoduro has already been in the shop a bunch for overheating randomly, and I've definitely seen a bunch of issues on new or nearly new bikes. Find a good condition used bike, with some decent maintenance records, and your mechanical woes should be minimized.
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Apr 25, 2011 22:58
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ChiTownEddie posted:I apologize in advance for my "looking for some validation"/rant post. Its tough since I don't have any friends that ride. The only problem with a new bike is the same problem with a new car. You'll be making the same brand new payments when it's 4 1/2 years old, has a ton of miles, and the warranty is expired as you will the day you drive it off the lot. (That's assuming you're financing, which if you can get a good interest rate, isn't a horrible sin) You won't think you'll mind on day 1, but 4 years later when you've got a 100,000 mile car that's got a dozen niggling issues and you're still making the full payment you might feel differently. I tend to agree with Z3n, a solid used bike is an excellent choice. Something that's been out for a while so you know the models strengths and weaknesses. There's an excellent magazine called "Bike," published in the UK but available stateside in big bookstores, that always has a section in the back on used bikes. They discuss what to look for in a particular make and model to tell if it's been well cared for, or if it's been left to rust in the off season. Bike is an astonishingly good magazine anyway, so if you're not reading it now you're missing out.
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Apr 25, 2011 23:24
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Thanks guys, good advice as always. I'll have to start trolling clist more. I'm probably going to go look at a few newer ones still, because it'd be easier for me to finance and pay off in 6 months rather than dump it all out now, but we'll see what I find. Now that I have calmed down its easier to see you're all right  Definitely will look for that magazine too! Thanks again. ChiTownEddie fucked around with this message at 02:15 on Apr 26, 2011 |
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Apr 26, 2011 02:09
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I love Bike it's just expensive most of the time
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Apr 26, 2011 02:27
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Ok! So I did all the paperwork crap today to register and insure my bike (1973 Dnepr MT-9 according to the registration). It was 12 lats/$24 CAD for 6 months of liability insurance.) I love how cheap stuff is here. Anyway. There's a few things that I need to sort. The stupid rear car tire has to be removed and replaced with a new rear wheel and rubber. Front rubber needs to be replaced. So question: At idle it wants to stall. It didn't when I test rode it, so I assume it just needs a carb adjustment. I've got the manual now and I'll read that bit after this post to see if it's helpful, but what generally do you need to adjust? There's a choke on each carb - is that what would be causing it to stall? I am looking forward to putting some serious miles on this baby.
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Apr 26, 2011 16:28
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