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I've been informed by the PO that my bike is "real cold blooded" and despite how badass it sounds to say that AND know what it means, I'm wondering, how will I know when I can pop the choke off? Is that kind of what's being articulated above? EDIT aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaand by above, i of course mean, on the previous page cluck1000 fucked around with this message at 17:27 on Aug 25, 2011 |
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Aug 25, 2011 17:20
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cluck1000 posted:I've been informed by the PO that my bike is "real cold blooded" and despite how badass it sounds to say that AND know what it means, I'm wondering, how will I know when I can pop the clutch off? Is that kind of what's being articulated above? What are you talking about? Did you mean choke?
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Aug 25, 2011 17:23
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JP Money posted:What are you talking about? Did you mean choke? Why yes I did! Edited! Dur. Sometimes getting into ANYTHING new with a new literacy is like learning a new language. I.e. ~brain searches for monosyllabic c vocabulary word associated with the handlebar area of me needing to do things. WORD FOUND. Spits out wrong word.~ 
cluck1000 fucked around with this message at 17:31 on Aug 25, 2011 |
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Aug 25, 2011 17:28
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cluck1000 posted:I've been informed by the PO that my bike is "real cold blooded" and despite how badass it sounds to say that AND know what it means, I'm wondering, how will I know when I can pop the choke off? Is that kind of what's being articulated above? Whenever the motor wants to idle nicely with it off. Usually the RPM will gradually rise and eventually level, when its close to the top is probably a good time to unchoke it. It's going to be unique for almost every bike, so you'll have to figure out when its warm enough by trial.
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Aug 25, 2011 17:32
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Ahh, all makes sense now. If the bike runs ok with it on you can let it idle for a minute or two and then ride off with it on. Try turning it off when you get to the end of the street or something and you should probably be ok. You'll notice the throttle being kind of unresponsive and almost lagged out if the bike runs at all. The choke should fix this. That said, it's going to vary with temperature. It will be easier to start in hot weather vs -20 degree weather (unless you have some weird rear end jetting). Has the bike been re-jetted for a pipe or anything? He could have put in the wrong jets and made a bad situation worse.
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Aug 25, 2011 17:34
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Or the pilot jets could be minorly clogged. They have very small passages and sometimes a little seafoam can help. Otherwise, regular riding and regular use of the throttle will probably clear it out. Bikes like being warmed up and then run hard, so don't be afraid of using the throttle. Of course, you want to make sure you have oil and coolant in it before you do this. 
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Aug 25, 2011 18:50
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Its been a while since Ive sold a bike, what forms n stuff do I need to fill out again? Bill of sale? something on the title?
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Aug 25, 2011 19:01
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So, I just bought a thing. I've gotta drive 10 hours to pick it up next week. Question I have is this, and apologies if it's a dumb one but it's something I haven't done in years, and never with a big bike. What is the proper way to strap one down in the bed of a pick up? I've getting some good tri-fold ramps from a buddy to put it in the bed, but strapping it down is making me wonder a bit and I'd like to get it figured out ahead of time for what I should do and bring with me for equipment. I suspect I can tie around the grab handles from the rear seat passenger for the back, but what about the front? The fairing is pretty encompassing and I'm not sure where I should plan on hooking and I obviously want it to be secure but not scuffing of the paint. The truck is a 2011 Tacoma and it has eyelets on the back rear of the bed, but the rest of the hooks are in channels along the TOP of the bed, which is probably a good thing I think?
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Aug 25, 2011 19:18
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That is hot as hell [literally, I hear, hahaha], I'd love to get one myself. As far as tying down, you don't have to do much to the back. I usually just strap the back down enough to keep the rear tire from doing any bouncing or moving around. You'll want to compress the front end so it doesn't move around over bumps and tip over. I usually find a spot to loop around the handlebar and crank it down equal on each side until the forks are about half-compressed, then give it a wiggle to be sure. I can't make any specific recommendations though. Except, make sure the anchors you tie to are solid, on both ends of the equation. Maybe wrap the tiedown straps or the bike itself in something soft and non-abrasive to avoid any rub marks. I masked my old Vulcan up with electrical tape to protect it from the straps while towing. clutchpuck fucked around with this message at 19:30 on Aug 25, 2011 |
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Aug 25, 2011 19:28
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slidebite posted:So, I just bought a thing. Ratchet straps from the handlebars to the top of the bed, in front. I'm sure you can find a way to route the strap so it doesn't hit the fairing or mirrors or anything. You can also put a towel down to prevent chafing. Really lean on the front end to compress the shock as much as possible. Do this and the back end can be left unsecured, or just a bit of a tiedown to keep it from flopping around in big bumps. Try to keep the bike upright and centered in the bed, and everything should be golden.
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Aug 25, 2011 19:29
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clutchpuck posted:That is hot as hell [literally, I hear, hahaha], I'd love to get one myself. Actually, the 2010s pretty much killed that complaint thankfully. One of the reasons I wanted a 10. So, compressing the front makes sense. One off of each side of the handle bars and one or two off the back to keep it from hopping around should be enough then?
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Aug 25, 2011 19:40
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Yep. I would pull off at a rest stop early in the drive home and double check it, just to be safe.
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Aug 25, 2011 19:46
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BlueBayou posted:Its been a while since Ive sold a bike, what forms n stuff do I need to fill out again? Bill of sale? something on the title? You just need to fill out the title. Bill of sale for you is mostly for your records, but as long as you have the title that's not needed to complete transfer. You fill out/sign the front and he/she fills out the back and also signs the front. Make sure you sign in the leinholder area just to be sure nothing gets funky with the DMV. (At least this is how it works for California, YMMV) Frozen Pizza Party fucked around with this message at 19:49 on Aug 25, 2011 |
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Aug 25, 2011 19:47
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BlueBayou posted:Its been a while since Ive sold a bike, what forms n stuff do I need to fill out again? Bill of sale? something on the title? You'll need to fill out the title of course for the buyer. The only thing you as the seller really care about is the notice of release of liability that you need to submit to the DMV. You can do it online, but have them fill it out on the title for your records. It's the tear-off bit attached to the title.
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Aug 25, 2011 19:49
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Some states (most or all? WA I am sure) let you file a report of sale/release of interest with the state. This can help protect you in case the buyer abandons it in a ditch or robs a bank with it before the title is transferred. I don't think it's strictly required but it's stupid to skip it.
clutchpuck fucked around with this message at 19:55 on Aug 25, 2011 |
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Aug 25, 2011 19:50
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I work with the court and have seen several people get citations etc. that could have been instantly voided by having the release of liability on hand. fill it out, do it online and print it out. Keep a copy for your records. The judge will instantly throw out the case if you have a copy of your release.
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Aug 25, 2011 19:54
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Florida titles have a tear-off portion that says it releases liability from the previous owner, and it gets turned into the DMV. I assume that would accomplish the same thing?
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Aug 25, 2011 20:06
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JP Money posted:Ahh, all makes sense now. If the bike runs ok with it on you can let it idle for a minute or two and then ride off with it on. Try turning it off when you get to the end of the street or something and you should probably be ok. You'll notice the throttle being kind of unresponsive and almost lagged out if the bike runs at all. The choke should fix this. So it's pretty much, get to know your own bike well enough to know when, without the Oh and also: JP Money posted:Has the bike been re-jetted for a pipe or anything? He could have put in the wrong jets and made a bad situation worse. Nah, it's been super well taken care of, nothing really modified. They were the first owners. It was the first motorcycle the wife of the guy who owns the cycleshop that sold me my helmet before I even started shopping for a bike. So it was pretty serendipitous when I wrote to a CL posting and got an "hey yeah, garaged all it's life, come by and see it, also I think I sold you your helmet!" Dude owns a cycle shop so I figured he probably knew what he was doing on basic maintenence matters/wouldn't let his lady ride anything he wasn't treatin' nice! cluck1000 fucked around with this message at 21:14 on Aug 25, 2011 |
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Aug 25, 2011 20:42
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You mean the choke? And yeah, you got it. If it rides with the choke on, it's OK to do that for a few blocks till its warm. clutchpuck fucked around with this message at 20:47 on Aug 25, 2011 |
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Aug 25, 2011 20:45
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AncientTV posted:Florida titles have a tear-off portion that says it releases liability from the previous owner, and it gets turned into the DMV. I assume that would accomplish the same thing? Yeah, the nice thing is CA will let you do it online. slidebite posted:So, I just bought a thing. People have mentioned good advice on strapping it down. I always shake the bike in the bed of the truck, and if the truck shakes rather than the bike, you're good to go. You should also float it over the kickstand, as in that case, if a tiedown fails, it'll end up in gear on the kickstand, and hopefully not out of the back of the truck. I also like to run 2 tiedowns from the pegs or passenger pegs forward, because you're not really worried about anything but the bike staying in the bed of the truck. Again, that way if one of the front tiedown breaks, you'll still have 2 tiedowns holding it in the truck. I'd also say it's easiest to load with 2 people: Put the bike in gear, engine off (or if you're ballsy you can do it with the engine), clutch in, push it up the ramp, clutch out, pass it to the person in the bed of the truck, and then push on the rear wheel to get it into the bed of the truck. Trying to push it from the tailsection is a pain in the rear end, turning the wheel is really easy.
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Aug 25, 2011 20:52
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clutchpuck posted:You mean the choke? OH MY GOD SEE ABOVE I'M A FOOL/at work/in a food coma/evidently kind of dyslexic about the words clutch and choke 
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Aug 25, 2011 20:57
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Z3n posted:Yeah, the nice thing is CA will let you do it online. Adding to this, don't crank the hell out of the tiedowns too much. It's not good for fork seals. Then again, I doubt you'll ever be getting the bike tied down that often to notice. On dirtbikes we used to put a block of wood between the front fender and the wheel so that you could ratchet it down real tight but keep the from bouncing around as well. Unfortunately the fenders on most bikes wouldn't like that too much.
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Aug 25, 2011 22:27
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I'm thinking of trying my hand at a quality rattle-can repaint on my bike, and I'm having a bit of trouble deciding what guide to use. They all differ in small details, and I was wondering if any of you have one bookmarked that worked well. Or if someone wants to write one up for me real quick... 
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Aug 25, 2011 22:39
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Get a canyon dancer.
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Aug 25, 2011 23:03
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AncientTV posted:I'm thinking of trying my hand at a quality rattle-can repaint on my bike, and I'm having a bit of trouble deciding what guide to use. They all differ in small details, and I was wondering if any of you have one bookmarked that worked well. http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=264901 If you use a canyon dancer, don't overdo it, or you can crack throttle tubes and pull off grips. Or get the kind with the cups on the end that go over the bar ends.
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Aug 25, 2011 23:40
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07 Weestrom, I've got a definite click or pop coming from the forks when I compress the suspension. It's most noticeable during stopping but I can replicate it just by shoving down on the handlebars. I know the fork oil's the original stuff, I was going to tackle that later this year. Steering head bearings feel ok. Any suggestions about where the click might be coming from?
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Aug 26, 2011 00:54
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Z3n posted:Yeah, the nice thing is CA will let you do it online. Thats exciting A guy is coming from a city 2 or so hours away to see the bike... it would be his first bike so he'd be driving back on the highway to his city. Im just worried he'll crash and I'll be liable even though I sold it to him :-/
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Aug 26, 2011 01:13
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Phy posted:07 Weestrom, I've got a definite click or pop coming from the forks when I compress the suspension. It's most noticeable during stopping but I can replicate it just by shoving down on the handlebars. I know the fork oil's the original stuff, I was going to tackle that later this year. Steering head bearings feel ok. Any suggestions about where the click might be coming from? It's most likely your steering head bearings...tighten them down to the appropriate spec and see if the problem goes away. They might sweep fine, but if they're barely loose they can pop under compression. BlueBayou posted:Thats exciting You'll be fine, just submit the release of liability immediately.
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Aug 26, 2011 01:32
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Finally got back into riding tonight. Everything feels great. Apart from a weird buzz at 4k. Pulls through the buzz no problem (though I didn't rev it much more) but it is enough to make me want to shift as the lower revs are much smoother. What should I check? EDIT: Duh 02 Bandit 600 Ziploc fucked around with this message at 02:51 on Aug 26, 2011 |
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Aug 26, 2011 02:34
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Ziploc posted:Finally got back into riding tonight. Everything feels great. Apart from a weird buzz at 4k. Pulls through the buzz no problem (though I didn't rev it much more) but it is enough to make me want to shift as the lower revs are much smoother. Get it buzzing and push on fairings/tank/etc to try and get it to stop. Add rubber or tape where needed to stop it from buzzing.
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Aug 26, 2011 03:02
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Z3n posted:Get it buzzing and push on fairings/tank/etc to try and get it to stop. Add rubber or tape where needed to stop it from buzzing. I think it's actually coming from the engine. It's buzzing the frame.
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Aug 26, 2011 03:06
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Ziploc posted:I think it's actually coming from the engine. It's buzzing the frame. Check that you don't have any loose motor mounts.
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Aug 26, 2011 03:18
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Z3n posted:If you use a canyon dancer, don't overdo it, or you can crack throttle tubes and pull off grips.
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Aug 26, 2011 03:31
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Z3n posted:Get it buzzing and push on fairings/tank/etc to try and get it to stop. Add rubber or tape where needed to stop it from buzzing. I did a bit more research and it seems people get the buzz from the fairings at 4k. I will investigate!
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Aug 26, 2011 04:13
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Ziploc posted:Finally got back into riding tonight. Everything feels great. Apart from a weird buzz at 4k. Pulls through the buzz no problem (though I didn't rev it much more) but it is enough to make me want to shift as the lower revs are much smoother. I hardly ever let my Bandit 600 drop below 4K, it's just so utterly gutless down there, how can you stand it?
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Aug 26, 2011 08:20
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KozmoNaut posted:I hardly ever let my Bandit 600 drop below 4K, it's just so utterly gutless down there, how can you stand it? I'm new and used to 8 second 0-60s.  Even under 4k it's pulling me up to speed faster than my car.You've had no fairing buzzing problems? Wiggling the plastics around I think I found where it might be buzzing. But it looks like a snap fastener which I might not be able to tighten. So I'm going to have to improvise.
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Aug 26, 2011 13:42
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slidebite posted:So, I just bought a thing. What, no fly and ride?  Seriously though, congratulations. If I had the cash to buy a new sport tourer right now today, and wasn't already seriously considering a Goldwing, I'd buy a Connie too. The 2010 is a hell of a machine, and I think you're gonna love it. I expect a full report once you've gotten it home and have put some miles on it.
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Aug 26, 2011 15:32
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Heh, thanks and I will. I actually did consider a fly and ride, but a one way ticket to where the bike is would set me back over $500, and I can drive for about $200 in gas. Also, the reason the owner is selling it in the first place is the roads to/from the city where it is are perpetually under construction and I'd rather not have a good portion of my virgin ride on gravel.
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Aug 26, 2011 19:43
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Ziploc posted:I'm new and used to 8 second 0-60s. My car does 0-60 in about 12 if I really push it, I had no problem adjusting to sub-5 seconds  Mine's a naked, so no fairing problems. No other problems either, so once you get the buzzing fixed, you should be in for miles and miles of trouble-free motoring.
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Aug 26, 2011 22:28
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KozmoNaut posted:Mine's a naked, so no fairing problems. No other problems either, so once you get the buzzing fixed, you should be in for miles and miles of trouble-free motoring. Gah. I was not going to de-fairing it till the winter break. You're making me want to do it now. Jerk! Edit: Tightened every bolt on the outside of the fairing. Still buzzes. Guess I get to take the headlight apart. Nothing I could touch while it buzzed would stop the buzzing. Curses! Ziploc fucked around with this message at 02:21 on Aug 27, 2011 |
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Aug 26, 2011 23:12
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