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In short, the calibration cube doesn't mean anything because your printer is going to draw a box 20x20x20. With slicer advances and the like(especially arachne) the typical over extrusion you are supposedly testing for us negated because your slicer is basically tuning pressure advance and coasting for you. Plus you can be measuring the average between layers way to small and way to large. Unless your caliper is . 2 thick (your layer height) you are measuring the average of several dozen layers Just because eit sticks well to the bed doesn't mean you are at the perfect height. I can glue stick a really poor offset layer and it works just fine. I can print a really wide square and it sticks just fine. But small things fly right off. This is again why printing a cube is not the end all of calibration Close to the bed has everything to do with the first layer, and not so much the rest. After the first layer, your z is moving up by a fixed amount. If your layers are not sticking together that can suggest poor temps or waaay to much cooling. Follow the guide. He explains it much better then I can. I 100% guarantee if you tram your bed, set an initial z with paper, then live adjust while printing those squares, you are golden. Either before that or after make sure your extruder provided 100mm of filament when requesting 100mm. I don't care what printer, or what slicer, or what filemwnt. This guide is the gold standard and it's why people are lothe to help when people ignore it. I'm not saying you are (yet) but after understanding the information therein, you see why mant of your troubleshooting steps meant nothing in the long run Do not ignore extrusion multiplier. Even if your prints look good enough.. your prints work until they don't.
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Mar 30, 2023 23:36
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The thing I really like about the old 4x20 lcd is that it's directly controlled by the printer's main board. Most graphic screens have a separate controller and communicate with the main board with gcode. Far too often they yield weird, laggy, not quite matching the state of the printer displays. I like the prusa mini's, and the picture of the print you've selected is very nice.
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Mar 31, 2023 00:06
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I updated my Prusa slicer and it's been a while since I've done any printing. When I sliced a Benchy model, I'm getting a lot of extra support material off to the sides which isn't actually supporting anything. In addition to the area I indicate in the picture, you can also clearly see a big chunk of support material surrounding the smokestack on the top. Which setting do I need to mess with to get rid of this extra material? I tried a bunch of things that I thought might help but I'm clearly missing something.
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Mar 31, 2023 01:43
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Do not use supports to print a benchy, for one
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Mar 31, 2023 01:45
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Listerine posted:I updated my Prusa slicer and it's been a while since I've done any printing. When I sliced a Benchy model, I'm getting a lot of extra support material off to the sides which isn't actually supporting anything. In addition to the area I indicate in the picture, you can also clearly see a big chunk of support material surrounding the smokestack on the top. For what you are asking for set it to snug under support options & supports on bed only. But yeah for a benchy just turn supports off.
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Mar 31, 2023 01:58
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Javid posted:Do not use supports to print a benchy, for one Yeah I forgot to shut off supports and immediately discovered this behavior which is the only reason I'm asking in re: to a Benchy model. Bondematt posted:For what you are asking for set it to snug under support options & supports on bed only. Okay, I had tried that and it didn't work but maybe I didn't save the setting or goofed up something else. Looks like it's working now, thank you.
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Mar 31, 2023 02:03
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TerminalSaint posted:Looks like the upper frame and y carriage (seen in the video) have been rigidized. My thought is that injection molded plastic costs less than the older metal frame, which lets them be more competitive on cost. It may actually be a benefit to upgrade an MK3 to a MK4 since the metal frame has some inherent benefits (likely stronger, heavier for vibration dampening, etc.). Well I'm just dumb and can't read. Disregard... smax fucked around with this message at 03:08 on Mar 31, 2023 |
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Mar 31, 2023 02:05
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smax posted:The old frame is metal. The frame in that picture is a plastic injection molded part, the circle with a 22 in the center is a dead giveaway, not to mention all of the visible injection points. The apparent rigidization is to bring its stiffness up to be comparable to the older metal frame, if I had to guess. From their press release: quote:The cut aluminum frame we used so far is now replaced by a brand new die-cast aluminum frame (the translation previously stated “injection-molded” which is not correct). To be more specific: we’re using an aluminum-based alloy that is first injected into a two-part mold. After that, the raw cast frame is cleaned from technological runners and other casting scraps, sandblasted and powder coated.
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Mar 31, 2023 02:21
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BlackIronHeart posted:From their press release: Well, I skimmed over that part. I'm just completely wrong then.
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Mar 31, 2023 03:07
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Yeah, they said on stream today that the cast frame gives them more supply flexibility, being able to use various alloys and not having to source aluminum sheets. And if you're casting it anyway you have more geometry options, so you can do things like variable thickness and the honeycomb pattern they used for added rigidity with minimal weight increase. They said it is stiffer, but the old MK3 frame is still plenty stiff enough, hence not including it as part of the upgrade.
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Mar 31, 2023 03:17
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WhiteHowler posted:If the 4S were a small upgrade I'd just deal with it, but it's better in almost every conceivable way, for about the same price, and was announced days after I bought mine and before it even showed up.
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Mar 31, 2023 04:02
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JFC The voron goes BRRRR tuning some layer squish and getting auto z set up. And boom, now my probe reports 'TRIGGERED' all the time. Now i get to trace that wire and see WTF happened. EDIT: and uhhh disconnecting the probe wires from the toolhead, and manipulating the wires causes my extruder temps to fluctuate. Yeah i think this is coming apart and im tracing / checking continuity edit 2: That was a quick fix, just some wonky grounding. and a loose magnet. I really need to get this working to print some CW2 / stealthburner parts and do away with this whole toolhead Roundboy fucked around with this message at 05:41 on Mar 31, 2023 |
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Mar 31, 2023 05:01
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Got my Bambu X1 delivered, and the thing is honestly smaller than I expected. Also just terrifyingly fast, it feels unnatural to see something snap around like that. Though it does seem like it has a bit of an issue with wifi signal strength (my network is at 0 strength on the display, even though it's only 4 or so meters away from the router.) so I'll contact the store I bought it from about that. It's honestly insane how loving fast it goes, while the prints are just incredibly nice and clean. I do think I'll have to look at getting a proper concrete paver + foam setup for it, to quiet it down a bit. A small annoying thing otherwise is that if you print PLA with the pei plate, the printer will turn on the enclosure exhaust, but it'll just immediately set it to 100% instead of scaling it up with the chamber temp. No need to have the fan at 100% when the chamber is at 28C, after all. Also it's kind of weird how you can't set the printer's speed profile right in a print job, though you can just make profiles that match the faster speeds I guess. Feels like a strange oversight.
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Mar 31, 2023 19:34
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SubNat posted:Got my Bambu X1 delivered, and the thing is honestly smaller than I expected. Also just terrifyingly fast, it feels unnatural to see something snap around like that. Make sure you’re on the latest firmware, they made some wifi improvements with the latest firmware. Even then it can be flakey at best.
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Mar 31, 2023 20:24
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https://twitter.com/toms3dp/status/1641408106792976385
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Mar 31, 2023 20:37
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Do you have to use the Bambu over wifi or can you connect to it directly? I'd like to try to get one for my office but we don't have proper wifi here.
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Mar 31, 2023 21:01
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WiFi, or putting stuff on a microSD card, no ethernet or usb unfortunately. And mattfl, updating was the first thing I did. I'll be trying it a bit more this weekend while waiting for support. Transferring print jobs seems to work just fine though, thankfully.
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Mar 31, 2023 21:51
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Since getting the printer 3 days ago it's basically been running non stop      (The fork and container are printed) Still a lot of fiddling to do but it's running well for the most part. How's everyone's experience with reducing or filling layer lines? Is there a fire and forget filler spray that works well enough or is always a combination of filling, sanding, etc.?
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Apr 1, 2023 13:47
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I’ve had good luck with automotive filler primer. Usually sand a bit first, one coat of filler printer, sand with high grit and then another coat of filler primer.
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Apr 1, 2023 14:42
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Elegoo is releasing a laser cutter on Kickstarter. This is an incredibly bad idea right? https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/elegooofficial/elegoo-phecda-laser-engraver-and-cutter
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Apr 1, 2023 15:22
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The orange cover suggests that it's using a blue diode laser, which is greatly inferior to the carbon dioxide or nd:yag lasers used in proper laser cutters. Usually those lasers are capable of slow etching and extraordinarily slow cutting of very soft materials like cardboard and balsa, and that's it. If you plan to do anything serious, 40 watts of CO2 is about the minimum to get started. However, if it has a full enclosure, fume extraction, and proper safety interlocks to prevent the beam from firing when the lid is open, that's far better than the current hacky systems where people just put a diode laser on their 3D printer carriage and wear laser glasses. So it would be an improvement in that regard.
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Apr 1, 2023 15:31
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I think home laser cutters are generally starting at "somewhat sus", but as those go the Elegoo one looks relatively sane.
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Apr 1, 2023 15:55
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Bodanarko posted:I’ve had good luck with automotive filler primer. Usually sand a bit first, one coat of filler printer, sand with high grit and then another coat of filler primer. I've hears about that one a bunch, gonna just try it out and see if it works for me. Thanks!
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Apr 1, 2023 15:59
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Agree with above diode lasers just need too many basses for cutting, but that could be a decent size for engraving (wood)
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Apr 1, 2023 16:45
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4kQZnSzZHD0 This is pretty neat. I might adapt this on my next upgrade.
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Apr 1, 2023 17:36
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Did the silicone mod on my prusa (easier and less infuriating version of the nyloc mod) Decent..
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Apr 1, 2023 21:47
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ImplicitAssembler posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4kQZnSzZHD0 His stuff is always top notch. The series on extruder "errors" is really important and more people should watch it.
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Apr 1, 2023 22:18
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I think i am going to dump the auto z klicky script. I feel its utility, but I am chasing a proper first layer squish and i have swung, in back to back prints, over .18-.2 something. Im WAY to close, adjust it proper, save my offset change, print again, adjust, etc A deviation of .16 is not ideal, but its just two peaks (prob where i crashed the nozzle on the other side ay back when) and the mesh should handle that. My probe SD is in the neighborhood of .005 and its very consistant. My nozzle is hitting where it should ,and my probe body is hitting where it should. I think i should just rip out that drat code and just go with a straight up manually entered offset that is fixed. So frustrating when its next to an ender that just prints and goes at this point
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Apr 1, 2023 23:30
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Roundboy posted:I think i am going to dump the auto z klicky script. I feel its utility, but I am chasing a proper first layer squish and i have swung, in back to back prints, over .18-.2 something. Im WAY to close, adjust it proper, save my offset change, print again, adjust, etc I suspect you're chasing a symptom, rather than the problem. I don't know enough about the rest of the story to say much more.
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Apr 1, 2023 23:40
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Nerobro posted:I suspect you're chasing a symptom, rather than the problem. I don't know enough about the rest of the story to say much more. I let the voron sit for a while because i was having my z drift during probing, fixed because i sat down and worked over everything belt related and fixed it. I am printing a print in place flexible toy with some small parts that really should not be an issue, and I was watching them peel off and ruin the print. I've gone over the elis guide repeatedly for many printers,and the first thing i did was set the z offset for a good first layer. On a future print this ended up being WAY to close so i backed it off and it was printing well in the same print (.25 squares) . The next print, i was too far. Then too close. I was manually adjusting z via the mailsail stepper buttons, then applying the difference to the probed z to my switch offset. Its almost as if the value i find and adjust for is somehow already added to the z the next go around. I have a good print going now, and Im waiting for a black PEI plate to come in stock, but im thinking of just setting an offset and leaving it like I do on every other printer. I just need to get some good ABS prints to replace all of this with tap and stealthburner, and probably a can bus to lower the wire count to the toolhead, and for ERCF
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Apr 2, 2023 01:48
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mewse posted:Did the silicone mod on my prusa (easier and less infuriating version of the nyloc mod) Yeah, I did it last week and I'm really pleased. Took my bed variance from .2 to .02. 
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Apr 2, 2023 05:30
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reading reviews of carbon-filled filaments and on every one you will find a bunch of people saying "please make a white version!!"
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Apr 2, 2023 16:00
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Nerobro posted:I suspect you're chasing a symptom, rather than the problem. I don't know enough about the rest of the story to say much more. Actually, I am able to recreate the issue reliably. All of this is with a clean nozzle totally cold printer G28 --> QGL --> G28 Z then run a calibrate_z quote:Z-CALIBRATION: ENDSTOP=2.800 NOZZLE=2.804 SWITCH=8.195 PROBE=6.140 --> OFFSET=0.328250 quote:Z-CALIBRATION: ENDSTOP=2.800 NOZZLE=2.802 SWITCH=8.192 PROBE=6.140 --> OFFSET=0.329500 And now i see quote:Z-CALIBRATION: ENDSTOP=2.800 NOZZLE=2.797 SWITCH=8.255 PROBE=6.145 --> OFFSET=0.267000 Again motors off, same leveling : quote:Z-CALIBRATION: ENDSTOP=2.800 NOZZLE=2.801 SWITCH=8.247 PROBE=6.142 --> OFFSET=0.275750 quote:probe accuracy results: maximum 2.801250, minimum 2.792500, range 0.008750, average 2.798750, median 2.800000, standard deviation 0.003260
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Apr 2, 2023 21:02
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Son of Rodney posted:Since getting the printer 3 days ago it's basically been running non stop If you're a Bad Enough Dude to print ABS*, you can do acetone vapour smoothing. *Not actually that hard in my experience, but you do need an enclosure.
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Apr 2, 2023 21:38
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Eh, depends on the part geometry. That totoro and kitty head would work fine in ABS without an enclosure as long as the heatbed can get to 110 C. The crab probably would work, but the minimal bed contact area makes it iffy. The fork and container would probably end up warping -- the fork has long thin parts, while the container is just big.
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Apr 2, 2023 21:56
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I have questions about how long PLA filament lasts exposed to air. It's been about a year since my last print, and my filament is stored in my home office. It's not particularly moist, but there's not a dehumidifier in the room either. I'm guessing the sealed filament is still good, and partially wrapped and bare stuff may need to be thrown out. Is this the case? If I do a test print with the older stuff, how can I tell if it's good or not. I'm running a Prusa Mini if this changes things.
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Apr 3, 2023 17:05
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PLA takes a long time to get waterlogged, and every roll I've had that happen to can be restored by dehydrating it. I use a food dehydrator, but a drybox is also an option. If you don't have either of those it's probably more cost effective to just buy new filament. The telltale symptom of waterlogged PLA is that it gets very brittle. If you can snap it with two fingers you've got some waterlogged PLA. It's USUALLY OK to print in this state (sometimes you'll notice more stringing than usual), but I've had a lot of cases where it snaps coming off spool and you end up with effectively a filament runout.
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Apr 3, 2023 17:13
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If you upgrade the board on your Ender-3 from the 8-bit one to the 32-bit one is there any other use or cool things that can be one with the 8-bit one besides keeping it as an emergency spare or SMD soldering practice?
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Apr 3, 2023 17:17
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 First big print done, just shy of 22 hours and worked perfectly. Smooth as silk, to my untrained eye. (0.16mm Lader height on 0.4mm nozzle). This will finally solve the constant arguments about dice rolling at my dnd table 
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Apr 3, 2023 17:17
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I posted some info about dehydrating a roll of PLA on page 292 using a filament drier (which I had for a while, but hadn't used until just recently). Short answer, it made a roll of very brittle PLA notably better, such that it wouldn't just snap in the extruder or bowden tube mid print. That PLA had been sitting unwrapped for over a year.
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Apr 3, 2023 17:17
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