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AncientTV posted:The bike sat for 6 months before we got it running again. Carbs have been cleaned, Seafoam is in the current tank, and the plugs were fine after I scrubbed them a bit. Ideas? When was the last time the carbs were synced? If it's running fine otherwise, I'd just run that tank of seafoam through it before I got worried. Can you get access to non-ethanol gas?
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Sep 9, 2011 16:04
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Generally speaking I think you can get away with adding something like that. If you start piling on other electrical parts like heated grips etc. it might be a problem. Awesome! I'll splice it up and see how it goes.
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Sep 9, 2011 16:32
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clutchpuck posted:When was the last time the carbs were synced? If it's running fine otherwise, I'd just run that tank of seafoam through it before I got worried. That could be it, one of the past maintenance intervals calls for synchronization, but we neglected to ask the owner if he had done it. The bike's pretty low mileage though, so I can't imagine anything could be too far out of whack. I'll let him know to check it out. And I could, but said buddy lives in a few hours away, so I won't have the bike long enough to test that. I'm transporting it for him today and I just wanted to be sure it wasn't going to poo poo a brick on a long highway stint.
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Sep 9, 2011 17:52
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So I went to the auto parts store the other day to buy brake fluid, and couldn't find any DOT4. I did find this stuff marked "DOT 3 & 4" though, is that going to be safe to use in a system designed for DOT4? I asked someone what the difference was; he said DOT4 has a higher boiling point and so is compatible with DOT3 systems, but not the other way around. Is he full of poo poo?
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Sep 9, 2011 19:49
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My petcock is leaking pretty badly, I've ordered an OEM replacement but I won't have it until Thursday or so next week. Is there anything I can do in between now and then to slow the leaking? I *REALLY* don't like the idea of riding with gas dripping near a hot exhaust pipe....
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Sep 9, 2011 19:55
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Schottingham posted:So I went to the auto parts store the other day to buy brake fluid, and couldn't find any DOT4. I did find this stuff marked "DOT 3 & 4" though, is that going to be safe to use in a system designed for DOT4? Dot 3,4 and 5.1 are compatible - you can generally use a higher DOT number in a system but you should avoid using a lower one than is listed on your master cylinder or manual. I've only ever used motorcycle branded fluid so I'm not sure about generic parts store fluid. It should clearly list which version it is. You can get Motul 5.1 fluid for around 7-8 a quart at your local motorcycle shop I'm sure.
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Sep 9, 2011 20:18
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:My petcock is leaking pretty badly, I've ordered an OEM replacement but I won't have it until Thursday or so next week. Is there anything I can do in between now and then to slow the leaking? I *REALLY* don't like the idea of riding with gas dripping near a hot exhaust pipe.... No guarantees either of those will work, but the first is certainly worth a try if it fits the problem.
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Sep 10, 2011 00:16
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:My petcock is leaking pretty badly, I've ordered an OEM replacement but I won't have it until Thursday or so next week. Is there anything I can do in between now and then to slow the leaking? I *REALLY* don't like the idea of riding with gas dripping near a hot exhaust pipe.... Rip it apart, clean the packing surfaces and reassemble with silicone-based liquid gasket. ThreeBond 1102 is the way to go. Berserkerduck fucked around with this message at 10:19 on Sep 10, 2011 |
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Sep 10, 2011 10:10
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Berserkerduck posted:Rip it apart, clean the packing surfaces and reassemble with silicone-based liquid gasket. ThreeBond 1102 is the way to go. My love for you is like a duck BERSERKER.
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Sep 10, 2011 15:42
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Z3n posted:My love for you is like a duck BERSERKER. Seriously, we have to stop being like this in public. ThreeBond 110 is pretty amazing for petcock gaskets though. http://www.subpump.com.my/ecatalog/productdetails.aspx?id=68 With a little effort during reassembly, ordering a new petcock is probably a waste of time and not at all good for your CO2 footprint. It's probably not the aluminum body that's leaking. The only problem repacking a petcock would be the membrane for vacuum petcocks. For most bikes you can't order a petcock membrane, but will have to order the entire petcock assembly. I sure like to use that word. Petcock. Petcock. Petcock. Petcock.
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Sep 10, 2011 17:06
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There's an SV650 near here that's going for $1000 since it has a "knocking sound". My friend needs a bike and we haven't had a chance to look at it yet, but is anybody familiar with them and their problems? Seems like it could be anything from the clutch to the cam chain tensioner, but for that money he's tempted just to go for it.
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Sep 10, 2011 18:05
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Bixington posted:There's an SV650 near here that's going for $1000 since it has a "knocking sound". My friend needs a bike and we haven't had a chance to look at it yet, but is anybody familiar with them and their problems? Seems like it could be anything from the clutch to the cam chain tensioner, but for that money he's tempted just to go for it. Does the sound change with the clutch pulled? Is the sound there in neutral gear too? Define knocking. Could be anything from bad carburetion, cam chain tensioner, to clutch rattle or rod knock. Is it more obvious at idle than it is at some rpms? I'll leave the floor now, since z3n will undoubtedly want to tell you everything worth knowing about the SV650 - and probably some more.
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Sep 10, 2011 18:39
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I'm so dumb I shouldn't own a bike. So I was playing around with some wires and smelled gas. Upon investigation it was leaking pretty quickly from where the arrow is pointed.  I looked all around and couldn't find any loose hose so I jammed the end of the gas tank over flow hose on there to stop the leak. Obviously that's not supposed to go there because now it doesn't start. What the hell am I missing here?
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Sep 10, 2011 19:02
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TylerC 2.0 posted:I'm so dumb I shouldn't own a bike. It's your float bowl overflow drain. You've got a malfunctioning float needle valve, punctured floats or a sticky float pin.
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Sep 10, 2011 19:50
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Try tapping your carbs w/ a rubber mallet.
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Sep 10, 2011 21:34
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My petcock is actually cracked. I went to pull it off and noticed the housing is cracked right above the switch, I already ordered the new one last week the parts house was just having issues processing my card. I got the threebond but I guess I'll just wait for the new part.
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Sep 10, 2011 22:27
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n8r posted:Try tapping your carbs w/ a rubber mallet. BWAHAHA I'm back! Thanks!
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Sep 10, 2011 22:37
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Bixington posted:There's an SV650 near here that's going for $1000 since it has a "knocking sound". My friend needs a bike and we haven't had a chance to look at it yet, but is anybody familiar with them and their problems? Seems like it could be anything from the clutch to the cam chain tensioner, but for that money he's tempted just to go for it. Mr. Berserker is pretty much dead on. Depends on what sort of knocking it is, but it could be a deal. Need more details.
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Sep 10, 2011 23:10
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TylerC 2.0 posted:BWAHAHA I'm back! Thanks! But not for long. You have to figure out why your float needle valve or your float sticks. A solid hit with a rubber mallet might have fixed it for now, but it won't last.
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Sep 11, 2011 00:41
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So what's the best method for getting oil/metal completely out of an oil tank? I have a Harley whose motor kind of exploded and I need to make totally sure there's no metal or junk left in the oil tank. It had kind of nice paint too, so preferably a method that won't tear that up.
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Sep 11, 2011 01:16
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Not sure if this is the right thread to ask in but I am looking at picking up a used motorcycle tomorrow and am planning to get insurance for it on Monday. Is there any leeway at all on new used purchases as far as insurance or should I wait to pick it up until later in the week? Also what about plates? I know you get short duration plates from a dealer but how does that work for used bikes? I do have car insurance and am in Illinois if that helps
The Spookmaster fucked around with this message at 05:32 on Sep 11, 2011 |
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Sep 11, 2011 05:24
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Pretty sure insurance goes active the day you sign up for it. Maybe like, the hour. If you get it from a local agent they can just give you a policy number over the phone or something and you can write it down for legality's sake. As for registration and all that poo poo, it varies state to state. In mine I don't think there's a grace period for insurance, just inspection.
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Sep 11, 2011 13:00
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Each state is different but generally I think it goes; get title, go to insurer, get coverage, go to rmv get registration and plates. They will take the title you signed and send a new one in your name in 2 weeks or so. In MA there is a 7 day period after you have the registration to get you bike inspected too. As far as breaks on insurance thats probablly someyhing that varies by company and state. Hopefully everthing goes smooth and you don't have to stare at a bike you can't ride for a few days.
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Sep 11, 2011 14:23
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Contact your insurance company or read your contract. State farm covers any bike I purchase 30 days from the date of purchase automatically. However, this varies between companies and policies.
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Sep 11, 2011 16:37
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bobula posted:So what's the best method for getting oil/metal completely out of an oil tank? I have a Harley whose motor kind of exploded and I need to make totally sure there's no metal or junk left in the oil tank. It had kind of nice paint too, so preferably a method that won't tear that up. You can use magnets to get your steel shavings, but there could be aluminum/copper so you'll need to flush it out. Use diesel or kerosene.
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Sep 11, 2011 18:45
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I recently got back from a long vacation, during which two major hurricanes hit my home in Maryland. I don't have a garage or anything, so I just park my bike on the street, and of course some rear end in a top hat stole my cover so the bike was just out there unprotected. Everything looks ok (doesn't appear to have been tipped over or anything), but I couldn't get it to start this morning. I hit the starter and it seemed like it was working, but wouldn't quite catch. After a second or two, the battery drained, so I tried thee times to bump start it down a nice hill. Each time, it would sound like it was starting for half a second, then just die. Since the electrical seems to be working fine, my suspicion is that it's not getting gas, although it has about half a tank in it. Seeing as it was in two hurricanes, I think it's a fair bet that water has gotten inside the fuel lines or even gas tank somewhere. What's my best bet here? Just top off the tank and try again? Do I need to drain the possibly bad gas out of the tank first, or flush the lines somehow? Bike is a 2009 EFI Bonneville.
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Sep 12, 2011 14:32
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SlightlyMadman posted:What's my best bet here? Just top off the tank and try again? Do I need to drain the possibly bad gas out of the tank first, or flush the lines somehow? Bike is a 2009 EFI Bonneville. Drain the tank and lines. Might be a good idea to change the oil as well.
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Sep 12, 2011 14:43
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Bixington posted:There's an SV650 near here that's going for $1000 since it has a "knocking sound". My friend needs a bike and we haven't had a chance to look at it yet, but is anybody familiar with them and their problems? Seems like it could be anything from the clutch to the cam chain tensioner, but for that money he's tempted just to go for it. CCT, guides or chain should be a tick or at most a clatter, surely? My idiot's opinion says if you have an honest to go knocking noise coming from a bike, it is very much hosed. Surely? It's probably a sign of my naivety but I can't imagine a clutch or fuelling problem so bad that it produces anything you would describe as knocking, assuming the only symptom is a knocking noise. My first assumption would be that "oh, you're supposed to check the oil?" or "what is oil and it goes where?" was involved. ne: Oh, I guess I've thought of one - a pinhole leak of exactly the right size and shape at the top of the exhaust downpipe on the front cylinder, which I gather is pretty vulnerable to dirt and water on these bikes, and which I guess could go FWAP FWAP FWAP. But still.
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Sep 12, 2011 14:46
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So my Drz400sm has no rear brakes for the second time this year. The first time I flushed the lines and they worked again. I'm guessing that something is letting air in the line. Do I need to buy a new master cylinder or would letting the bike sit for a month do that?
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Sep 12, 2011 18:15
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lwoodio posted:So my Drz400sm has no rear brakes for the second time this year. The first time I flushed the lines and they worked again. I'm guessing that something is letting air in the line. Do I need to buy a new master cylinder or would letting the bike sit for a month do that? I'd probably replace the crush washers and rebleed first.
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Sep 12, 2011 19:35
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2ndclasscitizen posted:Drain the tank and lines. Might be a good idea to change the oil as well. I can just siphon the gas out of the tank I guess, but how do I go about clearing the lines? Is there a drain plug somewhere for the fuel lines, like there is for the oil?
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Sep 12, 2011 19:57
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SlightlyMadman posted:I can just siphon the gas out of the tank I guess, but how do I go about clearing the lines? Is there a drain plug somewhere for the fuel lines, like there is for the oil? I believe you just take them off and they will drain.
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Sep 12, 2011 20:06
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SaNChEzZ posted:I believe you just take them off and they will drain. Do I need to do anything afterwards to flush air out of it or anything?
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Sep 12, 2011 20:22
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SlightlyMadman posted:Do I need to do anything afterwards to flush air out of it or anything? Nope, just disconnect them, drain then reconnect. The fuel pump will re-pressurise them next time you start it. And don't siphon the tank, drain it.
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Sep 13, 2011 02:11
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2ndclasscitizen posted:Nope, just disconnect them, drain then reconnect. The fuel pump will re-pressurise them next time you start it. And don't siphon the tank, drain it. I'll second this - the reason is because water is heavier than gasoline, so it'll sink right to the bottom and hide there in any depression you might have in the tank. (Assuming water is your issue.)
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Sep 13, 2011 03:17
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So I failed to put the kickstand down when parking my SV650, and it took a nap on me. My first reaction was to burst out laughing, which confused the hell out of passersby. Anyway, it came to rest on the sliders and clutch lever as seen below.  So now my clutch lever is snapped in half. Is there any easy way to get this thing home from the hospital parking lot without putting on a new lever or finding a pair of vise grips? I wasn't able to get the cable pulled far enough to get the thing started even. Edit: man, I hope that picture isn't as big as it looks on my phone. If i go buy vise grips I want the ones with a rounded jaw? Edit 2: guess I could jb weld the lever back together. Loucks fucked around with this message at 03:46 on Sep 13, 2011 |
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Sep 13, 2011 03:20
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Jump the clutch switch with a piece of wire, ride it home clutchless?
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Sep 13, 2011 03:46
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I can upshift clutchlessly, but down? Can it go into N cutchlessly? (I'm.dumb. which is why I am still thinking jb weld.)
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Sep 13, 2011 03:56
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Loucks posted:I can upshift clutchlessly, but down? There's 0 reason you can't just hold that lever against the perch in order to shift (at least from the way it's shown). It'll just pivot on the end of the actual perch instead of the bolt.
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Sep 13, 2011 04:03
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Loucks posted:I can upshift clutchlessly, but down? It can go into neutral clutchlessly. What you'll do when you need to go is paddle it forward and then drop it into gear. Then you throttle up normally, upshift clutchlessly, downshift by giving the throttle a little goose while pushing down on the shifter. When you want to stop you get it down to first, and thumb the kill switch off. Them put it in neutral and repeat. Or you can click it down into neutral while rolling from 2nd gear. You can also just kill switch it and go down gears by rocking it back and forth a foot or 2 while pushing down on the shifter at a stop. Jps idea on the clutch will probably work but it might slip off or stop working, so its good to know how to handle riding the bike without the clutch.
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Sep 13, 2011 04:05
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