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Couple of first questions: Speedo needle shakes - is this common/typical? Whole car shakes a little between about 60 and low 70s MPH - gone on either end of that range. Alignment or?
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May 4, 2014 22:20
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| # ? Jun 6, 2024 09:30 |
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1. Replace the speedo cable. Common. 2. 65 mph shimmy is also common. (hunter) Roadforce balance your tires. Search "65 mph shimmy" if you want to find out more.
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May 4, 2014 22:56
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My speedo needle shakes, and I was like 'hmm what could that be' until the telltale WHACKWHACKWHACKWHACKWHACK of speedo cable noise kicked in for the entire 3 hour drive home from buying it.
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May 4, 2014 22:57
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I wouldn't bother replacing the speedometer cable unless if it was making noise. Pro tip: do a few autocrosses and sign up for Mazdaspeed.
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May 4, 2014 22:57
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Hog Obituary posted:Oh, I was wrong, turns out '97 had a "touring package" option Well all I know is it doesn't feel like a torsen but I have traction to both wheels so I figured it must be a viscous. My options are weird too though, I have a OEM CD player which only comes with an M edition or STO, and headrest speakers with no cruise.....So maybe mine was special ordered? Was that even possible? I don't know. [edit] Isn't there a number to call Mazda with a vin# and they send you an option list for your car? Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 00:03 on May 5, 2014 |
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May 4, 2014 23:17
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leica posted:Well all I know is it doesn't feel like a torsen but I have traction to both wheels so I figured it must be a viscous. 1 800 222 5500
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May 5, 2014 00:23
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Just remember to shift at about 3500 and you'll enjoy driving it that much more.
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May 5, 2014 01:29
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iv46vi posted:Just remember to shift at about 3500 and you'll enjoy driving it that much more. That's a funny way to spell redline.
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May 5, 2014 01:37
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iv46vi posted:Just remember to shift at about 3500 and you'll enjoy driving it that much more. Why on earth would you shift there?
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May 5, 2014 02:10
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TrueChaos posted:Why on earth would you shift there? I'll be a boring goon and tell you exactly why. Most people buying a first Miata tend to shift at a usual place for most cars, so about 2k. Since those engines got not very much going on there, people tend to be a little disappointed. If you got other suggestions, by all means.
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May 5, 2014 02:17
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iv46vi posted:I'll be a boring goon and tell you exactly why. Most people buying a first Miata tend to shift at a usual place for most cars, so about 2k. Since those engines got not very much going on there, people tend to be a little disappointed. If you got other suggestions, by all means. He's suggesting you're shifting way too early if you're shifting at 3500.
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May 5, 2014 02:28
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iv46vi posted:I'll be a boring goon and tell you exactly why. Most people buying a first Miata tend to shift at a usual place for most cars, so about 2k. Since those engines got not very much going on there, people tend to be a little disappointed. If you got other suggestions, by all means. Nobody is shifting a Miata at 2k because it bogs down like loving crazy at 2k.
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May 5, 2014 02:28
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Yeah you gotta wring 'em out to have fun, especially the 1.6 Miatas. I haven't been doing it to mine for awhile cuz I have a water pump leak and I'm afraid I'll pop it wide open if I push it like I normally do 
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May 5, 2014 02:31
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iv46vi posted:I'll be a boring goon and tell you exactly why. Most people buying a first Miata tend to shift at a usual place for most cars, so about 2k. Since those engines got not very much going on there, people tend to be a little disappointed. If you got other suggestions, by all means. I used to shift my old beater Subaru at fuel cut, and I'm still disappointed by the 1.6. I keep the 1.8 at 4k or above basically all the time and it's nice and fun, although it's roughly sodomizing my wallet whenever I drop in for another chance to spill fuel on it at the gas station.
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May 5, 2014 03:31
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Yeah, the open loop starts at 4k, and you can really tell at the pump.
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May 5, 2014 03:45
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I used to shift my old beater Subaru at fuel cut, and I'm still disappointed by the 1.6. I keep the 1.8 at 4k or above basically all the time and it's nice and fun, although it's roughly sodomizing my wallet whenever I drop in for another chance to spill fuel on it at the gas station. You might want to check it out because I beat the poo poo out of mine and still get at least 20mpg.
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May 5, 2014 03:48
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Yeah, I just got the car so I'm slowly working my way through maintenance stuff. I have a suspicion that something's gone out on it since I'll get a high idle once the car gets warm. I found an old bottle of Seafoam this afternoon while cleaning out the storage room so I might puke that down the PCV next time I do an oil change.
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May 5, 2014 03:52
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Yeah, the open loop starts at 4k, and you can really tell at the pump.
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May 5, 2014 03:52
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Rollbars - everyone seems to be rolling Hard Dog; are they substantially better than everything else? If so, what's the cheapest/best place to buy? I don't want to cut corners on the quality of the product, but I would like to get it at the best price possible while knowing its the genuine article and not a knockoff.
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May 5, 2014 04:03
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Are you looking at tracking it? If not, I'd advise against putting in a rollbar.
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May 5, 2014 04:09
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Unless you're going to race it I wouldn't bother with one. Otherwise try to find a used one locally because you're going to pay out the rear end for a new one plus shipping.
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May 5, 2014 04:10
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It took blk a long time to find a car. I'd drive it for a while close to stock before starting to cut up the interior bits and put mounting holes through the body.
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May 5, 2014 04:13
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If you're looking to stiffen up the chassis there are better ways to do it. Rollbars for mostly street driven cars cause more problems than they solve.
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May 5, 2014 04:25
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Purely for safety, not for stiffening things up. Wife really wants me to get one.
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May 5, 2014 04:31
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OR COLLECT LIFE INSURANCE!?!? It's less likely that you'll wind up shiny side down than you cracking your skull in a 10mph fender bender.
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May 5, 2014 04:36
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You're safer without one on the street honestly. The Miata's windshield frame is perfectly capable of preventing you from being squashed should the .000001% chance of you flipping happens. You don't need a rollbar. [edit] never mind the fact that they make putting the top up and down a pain in the rear end.
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May 5, 2014 04:36
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Missed a very clean 1990 for $1000 by an hour today. Dude missed my texts and finally responded with "it just drove away, sorry dude."
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May 5, 2014 04:37
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leica posted:If you're looking to stiffen up the chassis there are better ways to do it. Rollbars for mostly street driven cars cause more problems than they solve. What problems do you mean? The only complaints I have are rearview visibility is slightly reduced, you can't one-hand the top, and installing the side nuts on the new top was a goddamn torturous experience. EDIT: I should also add that the rollbar is literally dead center on the back of my head when I sit up properly, but I really shouldn't be driving a Miata with stock seats anyway. I need to go buy padding. Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 04:51 on May 5, 2014 |
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May 5, 2014 04:47
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Beach Bum posted:What problems do you mean? The only complaints I have are rearview visibility is slightly reduced, you can't one-hand the top, and installing the side nuts on the new top was a goddamn torturous experience. You have the option to crack your skull on the bar in any minor accident, which is sort of a big deal
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May 5, 2014 05:17
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blk posted:Purely for safety, not for stiffening things up. Wife really wants me to get one. You can get non-racing bars that are usually the double-hump style that may help in a rollover, maybe. You won't hit your head on those. I, however, have a hard top sized Boss Frog Clear view and have no real complaints. Being 5'7" helps though I suppose. Joe Mama fucked around with this message at 05:24 on May 5, 2014 |
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May 5, 2014 05:21
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Beach Bum posted:What problems do you mean? The only complaints I have are rearview visibility is slightly reduced, you can't one-hand the top, and installing the side nuts on the new top was a goddamn torturous experience. You're adding a piece of tubular steel next to your head that doesn't really NEED to be there. You're creating another way to potentially risk cracking your skull and turning into a vegetable in an accident. also: leica posted:never mind the fact that they make putting the top up and down a pain in the rear end. And as someone that is constantly putting the top up and down, I wouldn't use one for that reason alone. Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 05:40 on May 5, 2014 |
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May 5, 2014 05:35
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Joe Mama posted:You can get non-racing bars that are usually the double-hump style that may help in a rollover, maybe. You won't hit your head on those. I, however, have a hard top sized Boss Frog Clear view and have no real complaints. Being 5'7" helps though I suppose. If you are talking about the style bars, those don't help at all and are actually worse
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May 5, 2014 05:40
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Yeah, think of those things as a mouse trap waiting to collapse on you.
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May 5, 2014 11:33
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Nodoze posted:You have the option to crack your skull on the bar in any minor accident, which is sort of a big deal This. I don't have any padding on my bar, but with a bucket seat it's no longer possible for my head to hit the bar. I should do something about the passenger side though.
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May 5, 2014 15:18
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Have any you ever seen or heard of a specific case of someone hitting their head on a roll bar in a Miata? It does seem more likely than a rollover, but I've seen several pics of rolled Miatas and zero reports of head injuries from minor collisions.
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May 5, 2014 15:24
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I saw one on Mazdaroadster within the past week or two. I think he gave himself a concussion. I can do some example finding once I get home if you really want it. E: btw, rollbar padding is designed to not crack your helmet on the rollbar, not your head
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May 5, 2014 15:27
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Phone posted:I saw one on Mazdaroadster within the past week or two. I think he gave himself a concussion. I'll take your word for it. I was just looking to see if there was any anecdotal evidence because I'd never heard of it actually happening.
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May 5, 2014 15:48
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I cracked my head pretty good in the '97. The high-density stuff probably saved my rear end from anything serious.
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May 5, 2014 15:51
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Getting a high fixed back seat like a sparco sprint really goes a long way to making you feel better about having a rollbar. This picture isnt perfect (i made it to show off deleting my softtop) but you sit so low in them and there is so little gap i dont feel worried about the bar at all. My passenger is of course, screwed.  edit: oops table breaking sorry, edited. MattD1zzl3 fucked around with this message at 19:38 on May 5, 2014 |
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May 5, 2014 16:44
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| # ? Jun 6, 2024 09:30 |
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Dual durometer padding or the Orange Aid stuff is another option.
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May 5, 2014 17:44
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