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Vinyl is lighter. 
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Aug 28, 2014 13:31
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leica posted:If you must have a glass window an NB top swap is your best bet. What are the benefits of the NB top swap and what does it involve other than ordering a different part number? It does get cold here, and there are days where my top goes down/up two or three times in a day when it's below 55F, I'd just heard that there's a "huge difference" between cloth and vinyl from some cursory googling and wanted some other opinions. Tactical Bonnet fucked around with this message at 13:41 on Aug 28, 2014 |
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Aug 28, 2014 13:38
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Tactical Bonnet posted:I have a zipper top now and I always just end up putting the top all the way down because the hard part is already done. Then you must not live in a very hot climate. Sometimes when it's hot it's nice to have air flow and stay in the shade and that's what a two piece is for. It also helps preserve plastic windows better instead of folding it on itself. Glass two piece tops tend to rip off the zipper prematurely because of the weight of the glass so those are a bad idea. If you want a quick open top with a glass window an OEM NB conversion is the best and easiest way to go, nothing is going to beat the quality of an OEM top, even a used one. An NB frame is required so the best way to do it is find a complete frame/top and swap them out, it's easy to do yourself. quote:Can anyone weigh in on the vinyl versus cloth debate? Is it correct that cloth is more durable but harder to clean, while vinyl is easy to clean but not going to last as long? I do actually plan to keep this car until it is either totaled or I die of old age. Cloth just looks nicer and is harder to keep clean. A cloth top won't necessarily last longer than vinyl.
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Aug 28, 2014 16:27
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OEM as in order one from Mazda? Just go in and tell them I need a glass window top and frame for a '99 and bolt it right in with a new rain rail? Are the latches the same?
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Aug 28, 2014 17:16
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All NB's are glass window one piece tops. Find a used frame/top from a late model NB and just bolt it right in with a new rain rail and you're good to go. You could go new but it won't be cheap, but a used OEM NB top is still going to be better than any new aftermarket tops.
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Aug 28, 2014 23:13
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"Mazda" tops are Robbins.
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Aug 29, 2014 05:03
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From the factory? That's news to me.
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Aug 29, 2014 06:30
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Any suggestions on a place to order one that won't be too murderous with shipping included? Also, if anyone knows of a pair of 95M seats (the tan, separate headrest, with "Miata" embossed) for sale, preferably in or around Oklahoma, I would be interested in purchasing some of those as well.
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Aug 31, 2014 05:22
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Topsonline.com for a new top. If you wanna do an NB swap check your local used parts dealers or Planet Miata (online). Good luck with the unicorn seats, keep an eye on ebay and Miata.net and you might get lucky.
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Aug 31, 2014 05:27
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The ones in mine got slashed by a disgruntled former employee. Super nice thing to come out to. No parking lot cameras, and no one stuck around if they saw anything. So it isn't like I don't have anything to sit on, I was just taking a stab in the dark before I started looking for custom seat covers/alternative seats.
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Aug 31, 2014 05:33
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I would just get them re upholstered by a professional. Even if you got lucky and found any used, it would be like finding a unicorn making GBS threads rainbows if you found a pair in mint condition. Most of the mint 95m's are garage queens and will never be parted out because they command top dollar on their own. Lately every 95m I've seen for sale locally is a neglected shitpile. The 95m I had was mint, fetched over 10k when I sold it, and still had significant wear on the driver's bolster. [edit] Actually, the ebay leather covers don't look bad at all. Would still get a quote from a pro tho. Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 05:48 on Aug 31, 2014 |
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Aug 31, 2014 05:44
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edit: I'll shut up now and stop bogarting this thread.
Tactical Bonnet fucked around with this message at 06:31 on Aug 31, 2014 |
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Aug 31, 2014 06:25
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Tactical Bonnet posted:Any suggestions on a place to order one that won't be too murderous with shipping included? How much is the shipping through RockAuto?
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Aug 31, 2014 13:44
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What do ya'll like for a timing belt kit w/ water pump? Do any come with a crank seal?
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Sep 1, 2014 00:05
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opengl128 posted:What do ya'll like for a timing belt kit w/ water pump? Do any come with a crank seal? I just ordered the individual components from Rosenthal. You should have the following in your kit: Timing belt, tensioner, timing belt idler, water pump (gaskets if not included, there are two), water pipe o-ring, crank seal, crank bolt, crank alignment key, cam seals, thermostat, thermostat gasket. Someone sound off if I'm missing something. Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 05:10 on Sep 2, 2014 |
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Sep 1, 2014 01:50
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I've never replaced the crank bolt. It's not TTY so I'm not sure why you would. I've done likely close to a dozen timing belts and put hours and hours of track time on the ones I've done with no problems. FatCow fucked around with this message at 03:43 on Sep 1, 2014 |
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Sep 1, 2014 03:24
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I've had two crank bolts come out of the car completely knackered, so to save time on the one I did on my car I ordered the bolt. If it turns out yours is fine, it's a $10 part, put it on the shelf.
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Sep 1, 2014 09:16
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NAs and NBs can both be had near me for circa £1 k with 100k on them. I'm not afraid of getting my hands dirty but I'd rather not do bodywork, is there any reason to get an NA over a later younger car?
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Sep 1, 2014 12:20
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Beach Bum posted:I just ordered the individual components from Rosenthal. You should have the following in your kit: Timing belt, tensioner, water pump, water pipe o-ring, crank seal, crank bolt, crank alignment key. Water pump gasket, idler pulley, camshaft seals, thermostat and thermostat gasket if you want to be really thorough while you're in there. Maybe valve cover gasket and camshaft position sensor o ring as well since they'll be accessible, as well as any accessory belts you've got
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Sep 1, 2014 13:16
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Cakefool posted:NAs and NBs can both be had near me for circa £1 k with 100k on them. I'm not afraid of getting my hands dirty but I'd rather not do bodywork, is there any reason to get an NA over a later younger car?
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Sep 1, 2014 14:24
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Cakefool posted:NAs and NBs can both be had near me for circa £1 k with 100k on them. I'm not afraid of getting my hands dirty but I'd rather not do bodywork, is there any reason to get an NA over a later younger car? NA's are a little rough around the edges and the NB's are more refined. NA's look better imo.
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Sep 1, 2014 15:15
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Edmund Honda posted:NA is lighter; I think Phone posted power-to-weight ratios across the range and they were all the same, thanks to the gradual engine tweaks. pre:weight powah kg/hp NA 940 115 8.17 NA 940 133 7.07 NBFL 1065 147 7.24 NC 1110 170 6.53 ND 1065 165 6.45 BRZ 1190 203 5.86 S2000 1250 237 5.27 leica posted:NA's are a little rough around the edges and the NB's are more refined. 
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Sep 1, 2014 16:00
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mobby_6kl posted:I couldn't find Phone's post on this, but here's mine back from ND discussion. Wikipedia says the NA was 990kg when the 1.8 was introduced in '94; people on m.net (source of all true information) claim the only version that's 940kg is the '90.
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Sep 1, 2014 17:00
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I have something weird going on with my NA - last week when it was reasonably hot (low - mid 90s), the temperature gauge shot up to max during a short drive up a steep hill. I slowed down and it eased off for the next mile to my destination. Needle jumped up again while I was doing errands the next day, so I parked the car until I had time to take a better look at it. The next day I found the overflow reservoir was empty and couldn't get a read on the radiator reservoir. I started adding distilled water to the radiator and it only took about half a quart before it was full. I filled the overflow tank with water and then took the car out for a lengthy Italian tune up - it stayed cool, although it was ~70 out and not ~90, but I wouldn't think that would make that much of a difference given that I was keeping it at 5-7k RPM. Could that little amount of water in the radiator made that much of a difference, or the fact that the overflow tank was empty? I thought overflow was just for spillover and not part of the essential cooling supply.
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Sep 1, 2014 17:59
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The overflow is an essential part of the system. You have an air bubble and a coolant leak somewhere. The coolant overflow will lower and rise depending on the temperature of the coolant. It's basically science.
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Sep 1, 2014 19:40
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Just a couple more days for the ND reveal lads, and lots and lots of meltdowns online.
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Sep 1, 2014 19:57
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Bovril Delight posted:Just a couple more days for the ND reveal lads, and lots and lots of meltdowns online. Phone posted:The overflow is an essential part of the system. I read these two posts together.
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Sep 1, 2014 20:13
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EVERYWHERE 
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Bovril Delight posted:Just a couple more days for the ND reveal lads, and lots and lots of meltdowns online. The tears are going to be lost in the rain.
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Sep 1, 2014 21:45
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I haven't been able to spot a leak but I haven't tried a pressure tester yet, so I guess I'll do that next. Hopefully it's not the head gasket - there's no milk shake in the oil, although there is some brown schmutz around the rim of the reservoir mouth and on the hose that goes under the reservoir cap: Any idea what that would be from?
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Sep 1, 2014 22:01
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Live stream of the unveiling at 6pm PST Wednesday on Mazda's youtube channel, featuring Duran Duran.
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Sep 2, 2014 04:38
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blk posted:I haven't been able to spot a leak but I haven't tried a pressure tester yet, so I guess I'll do that next. Hopefully it's not the head gasket - there's no milk shake in the oil, although there is some brown schmutz around the rim of the reservoir mouth and on the hose that goes under the reservoir cap: You're just going to have to check all the hoses. I had a real bitch of a leak that it took me forever to find; it was the hose under the exhaust manifold, and it would only leak when under pressure; the exhaust heat was evaporating it before it would drip as well. I was lucky to find it when I did my timing belt job. I ghetto pressure tested the system with the garden hose and it went *SPROINK* and started spewing water in my face. I can't name them all off the top of my head, and every time I start to write it down I realize I have no loving clue where most of them start and end. I just kinda know where they are 
Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 05:17 on Sep 2, 2014 |
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Sep 2, 2014 05:14
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Less than 7 hours to go!  Who's excited????
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Sep 3, 2014 19:30
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So I need an alignment and no shops in the area will let me sit in the car while they do it, apparently I need to find some kind of underground shop that caters to sperging Miata drivers.
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Sep 3, 2014 19:41
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Stuff some weight under/around the seat? Blaise posted:Less than 7 hours to go! I can't wait for all of the moronic hand wringing to end. Other than that, excited to see what I'm probably going to be buying in a short few months. 
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Sep 3, 2014 19:44
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leica posted:So I need an alignment and no shops in the area will let me sit in the car while they do it, apparently I need to find some kind of underground shop that caters to sperging Miata drivers. Find a real shop. Or put 200lb (or whatever you weigh) of weight on the seat.
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Sep 3, 2014 19:44
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Phone posted:I can't wait for all of the moronic hand wringing to end. Same. I've ignored this thread forever for this reason. I drove the FRS/BRZ the other day finally in 6spd form and was so happy to get back into my NA. This is really the only new vehicle for me, so I'm HOPING they get it right.
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Sep 3, 2014 19:45
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Blaise posted:Find a real shop. Or put 200lb (or whatever you weigh) of weight on the seat. None locally will do it,and i don't really want to drive out of town for an alignment. I asked one shop if they had any ballast weights and he said "yeah you can WAIT in the waiting room" haha you're a funny jerk, I'll take my business elsewhere. Realistically though, will it make that much of a difference for a DD anyway?
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Sep 3, 2014 19:51
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This thread is cool, loving mnet is another thing all together. If you're expecting 160-165hp, 155-158 ft-lbs, 2350lbs and available next year... Congratulations! You live in something that resembles reality. Over on mnet, if it doesn't have 180HP, deal breaker. If I can't get it in school bus yellow or neon green, deal breaker. If I lose to minivans in hypothetical quarter mile drag scenarios, deal breaker. If it isn't as fast as the S2000, deal breaker. If it isn't Jinba Ittai enough, deal breaker. If it doesn't spin to 8000rpm, deal breaker. If the transmission doesn't have two overdrive gear ratios, deal breaker. If it doesn't have 5 lugs, deal breaker. If it doesn't have 17" wheels, deal breaker. If it doesn't have hydraulic assisted power steering, deal breaker. If it doesn't have a rotary engine, deal breaker. If it isn't a fixed roof coupe, deal breaker. If it isn't $20k USD, deal breaker. And.. The.. List... Goes... On...
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Sep 3, 2014 19:51
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If it doesn't make me a baloney sandwich, deal breaker
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Sep 3, 2014 19:54
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I personally think the NC already kicks rear end. So if it's better. I'm happy. Weeeeeeeeeeeee
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Sep 3, 2014 19:55
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