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Geirskogul posted:Whoa whoa, not trying to start a fight or anything. That's exactly what the last guy I punched in the face said 
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Feb 25, 2012 10:58
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Geirskogul posted:Whoa whoa, not trying to start a fight or anything. Just honest questions. And, Ola, you said in words what I was thinking about regulator design. Either you have a (slightly) more advanced multi-stage regulator that kicks in at different revs to provide power, or you have a cheap one that either charges at idle and discards excess power as heat at high revs, or doesn't charge at idle but is efficient at revs. I just thought that the first of the three options, like in most cars, is what there would be in motorcycles (complicated, but highly variable r/r) nowadays, like what I saw in the R1200GS I played around with. Sorry if I sounded confrontational, didn't mean to at all.  Interesting discussion, that's all. Look at it from a business point of view. Add cost, complexity and weight for a very small selling point? Bikes spend more time at cruising revs than at idle and experience has shown that it works fine that way.I've ridden with a voltmeter (have a cheap little thing that shows volts, temp and clock) a few times. Might remember it wrong, but it shows 12.8 off, 12.5 ignition on (lights on), 11.8-ish at idle and jumps to 13.8 at about 3500 revs. When riding it alternates between 13.8 and 12.4 as the R/R switches on and off. The number stays fairly put throughout the driving revs, I think they even dip slightly at very high revs. I guess that's an indication that the load switches in slightly crude steps along with the more frequent sparks causing a higher load.
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Feb 25, 2012 11:44
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Maybe that's why I was flustered. When I built my regulator, I did it with (what I thought it would be, in comparison to stock ones) a simple three-transistor (regulating, feedback, and current mirror with a zener diode) setup. Turns out, the stock regulator I fried was just a cheap, single transistor that regulated in pretty abrupt steps, and sometimes peaked at 15 volts when revving up (not good). That's what I get for spending more than $.50 in what I thought was one of the most important parts of the bike's electrical system. At least the stock rectifier (mine is two separate units connected by a short harness) isn't as cheaply made. I'm confident that I could make one for a higher-revving bike just as easily (which is good, because I may have to for the CB400). Now, off the battery is around 12.7-12.8, key on engine off it's at 12.2-12.5, at idle with light (55W) off it's at around 13.1, light on I get 13.0 (it's a very good regulator), and revving from 1 to 5.5k (redline), it stays at a steady 13.4. I've adjusted my cut-off a bit lower, because I'm running a tiny battery (kickstart-only bike), and I didn't like the current draw when testing with a metered power supply when I went up all the way to 13.8.
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Feb 25, 2012 12:24
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Hmmm if you could turn that in to a product you'll definitely have a market. OEM R/Rs are known for getting fried and costing loads of money. I guess it would take one that shed its heat effectively, provided good charging voltage at a wide (perhaps adjustable) range of revs, cost less and lasted longer than OEM.
Ola fucked around with this message at 12:36 on Feb 25, 2012 |
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Feb 25, 2012 12:33
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Ola posted:Hmmm if you could turn that in to a product you'll definitely have a market. OEM R/Rs are known for getting fried and costing loads of money. There's a lot of quite well designed R/Rs out there already. If I have to deal with a defective motorcycle voltage regulator/rectifier, I usually just replace the OEM with a Shindengen Mosfet R/R. Might be almost as expensive as OEM, but it'll at least outlast your bike. On my bikes they've always improved voltage stability and battery life.
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Feb 25, 2012 13:03
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Nothing against good aftermarket R/R units at all. I built my own because A: I'm poor, B: I had most of the parts and all of the knowledge needed to do it and C: I'm poor. Even then, though, I overbuild the poo poo out of anything I replace. That's why my entire motorcycle has no less then 16 gauge wire running through it (most 12 or 14) with soldered, weatherproof connectors and wrap on everything. Also, the color-coding now makes sense.
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Feb 25, 2012 13:11
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Just to be clear - is it ever a bad decision to stay on the throttle or give it some more when the rear end end is sliding out?
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Feb 26, 2012 05:08
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It's a bad idea to cut the throttle, just stay steady.
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Feb 26, 2012 05:16
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Think of traction as finite number. Some of it is used up keeping you stuck to the ground when stationary, with a little to spare before you break off (slip). Accelerating and decelerating uses some of the "spare" traction, as well as cornering ("Traction used for cornering cannot be used for braking"). If you exceed your traction limit, you slip, and the only way to re-gain traction is to bring your "traction usage" back below your allotment. Both gunning the throttle, or cutting off, are variations of accelerating and decelerating. Keep steady on the throttle in an attempt to re-match wheel speed with ground speed, and regain your traction.
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Feb 26, 2012 05:31
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Safetyland posted:Just to be clear - is it ever a bad decision to stay on the throttle or give it some more when the rear end end is sliding out? Depends on the situation. Let's say you're slipping because you hit a patch of gravel. You chop the throttle, ride it out. Your tire will grab hard when it leaves the gravel and catches asphalt, and it could highside you. I've been fortunate on dual-sport bikes to have the suspension eat up the hit. If you were to ease onto the throttle, you'll slide out faster, and it'll still grab hard when it hits asphalt, except now it'll want to launch you forward as well. If you were to gun it, you could get it spun up enough to slide through the transition in road surface, and with the right body english you could flat-track your way out of the situation--assuming you're competent in such disciplines. So in that situation, I'd favor maintaining or reducing throttle. On the other hand, if you got yourself into the situation with too much throttle, it's just time to ride it out. If you chop the throttle after spinning up the tire in a turn, life may suck for you very shortly.
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Feb 26, 2012 08:03
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Security question: I'm parking my bike in a public are for the first time in several months, and I'm wondering about my security strategy. I've got a medium-grade name-brand security chain going around a large-diameter metal pole and have the lock affixed to a frame member on my bike. I have also covered it with a bike cover. I'm not sure whether I should also, or instead, target the wheel. I could lock the rim to the frame, but I'd be vulnerable to people lifting the bike into a van. Should I add some visible security around one of the wheels? The motorcycle does not have a steering lock.
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Feb 26, 2012 08:13
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MotoMind posted:Security question: I'm parking my bike in a public are for the first time in several months, and I'm wondering about my security strategy. I've got a medium-grade name-brand security chain going around a large-diameter metal pole and have the lock affixed to a frame member on my bike. I have also covered it with a bike cover. I'm not sure whether I should also, or instead, target the wheel. I could lock the rim to the frame, but I'd be vulnerable to people lifting the bike into a van. Should I add some visible security around one of the wheels? The motorcycle does not have a steering lock. I've been advised to/do put my chain through both my wheels as well as the frame.
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Feb 26, 2012 08:56
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Motorcycle wheels aren't exactly quick release like pedalbike wheels. If you're worried you can always get a second cable to secure the wheels to the frame, but to some degree anyone carrying the tools to get your wheel off is likely to have something to get through the cable anyway.
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Feb 26, 2012 13:56
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Safetyland posted:Just to be clear - is it ever a bad decision to stay on the throttle or give it some more when the rear end end is sliding out? I'm envisioning this guy stuck in a 0 MPH donut burnout with the front wheel locked and the throttle pinned, shouting "THAY TOLD ME NOT TO ROLL OFF" as the rear tire disintegrates
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Feb 26, 2012 13:58
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MotoMind posted:Security question: I'm parking my bike in a public are for the first time in several months, and I'm wondering about my security strategy. I've got a medium-grade name-brand security chain going around a large-diameter metal pole and have the lock affixed to a frame member on my bike. I have also covered it with a bike cover. I'm not sure whether I should also, or instead, target the wheel. I could lock the rim to the frame, but I'd be vulnerable to people lifting the bike into a van. Should I add some visible security around one of the wheels? The motorcycle does not have a steering lock. Battery-powered angle grinders sort of invalidate just about any security measure you can come up with. Your best bet is to use a cover so it isn't immediately obvious which kind of bike it is, park in a well-lit public area and have good insurance.
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Feb 26, 2012 16:33
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I have a failed front fork seal. What parts do I need to replace at the same time? The seal, clearly, but how about "oil seal stopper," "oil seal retaining ring," or "dust seal?" Also, can I do only one fork at a time? The other one seems fine, and I'm dead broke. edit: Argh. Suzuki Service Manual posted:!Caution! babyeatingpsychopath fucked around with this message at 18:24 on Feb 26, 2012 |
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Feb 26, 2012 18:14
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You don't necessarily need to replace the fork seal just yet. Go buy some photographic film from a drug store that still carries it. Slide the dust seal down. Insert the film up starting with one corner, then slide it around the perimeter of the oil seal in one gradual downward spiraling motion. You want to catch any grit that got in there and extract it from under the seal. Then pack the area with some grease and reinstall the dust deal. It may not work, but for moderate leaks it is worth a try. Then again, the only thing you really really need to replace is the oil seal assuming you don't mangle anything else in disassembly. There ought to be a dirt cheap ebay kit you can use. FYI, if your forks have an air valve and are not USD you can blast the oil seal off using air pressure. There are some important details here, like draining oil, but we'll get to those if you have that kind of fork. MotoMind fucked around with this message at 18:45 on Feb 26, 2012 |
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Feb 26, 2012 18:39
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MotoMind posted:You don't necessarily need to replace the fork seal just yet. Go buy some photographic film from a drug store that still carries it. Slide the dust seal down. Insert the film up starting with one corner, then slide it around the perimeter of the oil seal in one gradual downward spiraling motion. You want to catch any grit that got in there and extract it from under the seal. Then pack the area with some grease and reinstall the dust deal. '02 Bandit 1200, and I already got the grit out about a thousand miles ago. Stopped the leak for a week or so, now it's back, and much worse. The seal is shot.
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Feb 26, 2012 20:22
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You need a new seal. Use the old seal to protect the new one when you ram 'em in. Depending on how old/rusty everything is, you might need to use a shitload of force to force the old seal out. There's two bushings with a teflon coating. This coating could get scraped off; a little is fine, a lot is not. You'll also need new fork oil. It is important you get the right type/weight. Don't forget to replace the oil in both forks to ensure they have same compression/damping values.
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Feb 26, 2012 21:02
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KARMA! posted:You need a new seal. Use the old seal to protect the new one when you ram 'em in. There's another method besides loving brute force banging the those lovely seals out. You can overfill the fork with water and pressurize it and use science (hydraulics) to force those fuckers out. Yes, I wrote WATER, NOT oil. First time I did this was a catastrophe due to not taking my own advise. DO NOT DO THIS WITH OIL. Took me forever to clean the shop. Those seals come out with some force, and whatever you use as fluid to force them out comes right after. KARMA! posted:
Phew..
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Feb 26, 2012 21:21
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Sir Cornelius posted:Yes, I wrote WATER, NOT oil. First time I did this was a catastrophe due to not taking my own advise. DO NOT DO THIS WITH OIL. Took me forever to clean the shop. Those seals come out with some force, and whatever you use as fluid to force them out comes right after. If you have an air valve and do this with compressed air without draining the oil, the results are HILARIOUS. Even after draining, you want a towel around the fork lip to keep it from spraying residue everywhere.
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Feb 26, 2012 21:28
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Sir Cornelius posted:There's another method besides loving brute force banging the those lovely seals out. You can overfill the fork with water and pressurize it and use science (hydraulics) to force those fuckers out. NO BRUTE FORCE IS ALWAYS THE ANSWER
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Feb 26, 2012 23:24
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KARMA! posted:NO BRUTE FORCE IS ALWAYS THE ANSWER IF IT BREAKS IT NEEDED TO BE REPLACED ANYWAY
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Feb 26, 2012 23:53
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What's another name for indicators? I dropped my bike and smashed the cover and I'm trying to order a new one online without much luck. I know Americans call them something else, can't remember what. Y'know, the orange lights that indicate which way you're turning. edit - also, can anyone recommend a huge online retailer for this kind of thing? All the sites I've found so far just seem to be actual stores and dealerships with a small online sector.
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Feb 27, 2012 04:08
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Turn signals
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Feb 27, 2012 04:09
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Blinkers.
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Feb 27, 2012 04:09
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Flashers.
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Feb 27, 2012 04:24
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Signals.
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Feb 27, 2012 04:36
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Jokes on you, Americans don't use turn signals.
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Feb 27, 2012 06:12
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Bondematt posted:Jokes on you, Americans don't use turn signals. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lhsjit5xJks Relevant methinks. Edit: Would it be stupid to drill some small holes in my seat foam? The seat isn't bad it just has no give to it. I'm scared that this is my inner redneck coming out though. Ponies ate my Bagel fucked around with this message at 08:32 on Feb 27, 2012 |
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Feb 27, 2012 08:09
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^Someone please fix this guy's av/BRCT...it was funny for about a week, 2 years ago.
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Feb 27, 2012 14:33
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Is it easy to reverse throttle/brake and clutch positions on the handlebars?
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Feb 27, 2012 17:41
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An observer posted:Is it easy to reverse throttle/brake and clutch positions on the handlebars? "Why?" aside; I think probably not very easy at all, especially if they're hydraulic as you can't mount most hydraulic levers upside down.
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Feb 27, 2012 18:05
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Within the next decade it's possible my right arm will have to be surgically fused so I won't be able to bend it at the wrist. That'd probably make it hard to use the throttle.
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Feb 27, 2012 18:09
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ReelBigLizard posted:"Why?" aside; I think probably not very easy at all, especially if they're hydraulic as you can't mount most hydraulic levers upside down. Convert to cable-actuated drum brakes front and rear, problem solved!
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Feb 27, 2012 18:22
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1) Get an ATV-style thumb throttle 2) Get a Rekluse clutch 3) Link the front and rear brakes, and put the lever on the left side? The rekluse part kind of necessitates an enduro or supermoto, but theres nothing wrong with that.
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Feb 27, 2012 18:27
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I actually wasn't aware of thumb throttles, that's a great idea. I'd still be able to use the front brake, I just couldn't do the twisting throttle motion without looking like a chicken. Thanks!
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Feb 27, 2012 18:33
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An observer posted:I actually wasn't aware of thumb throttles, that's a great idea. I'd still be able to use the front brake, I just couldn't do the twisting throttle motion without looking like a chicken. Thanks! Oh, so you can still work the brake and clutch? If thats the case, then the thumb throttle should do ya. If you do it, be careful at first, as they are a lot touchier than twist throttles, and can get away from you pretty quickly.
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Feb 27, 2012 18:38
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An observer posted:Within the next decade it's possible my right arm will have to be surgically fused so I won't be able to bend it at the wrist. That'd probably make it hard to use the throttle. The occupational hazards of a professional masturbator? And yes, there do appear to be ways to mount a throttle on the left: http://www.cyclefish.com/forum/topic/14/index/101086/1#108004 If all else fails, I'm sure for a couple hundred bucks a company like G2 Ergonomics would tool something up for you.
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Feb 27, 2012 19:16
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Nah, I'm a woman, it's just rheumatoid arthritis. It was kinda depressing me for a while thinking I may not be able to find a way around it, but now I know better. Thanks guys!
An observer fucked around with this message at 19:23 on Feb 27, 2012 |
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Feb 27, 2012 19:20
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