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An observer posted:Nah, I'm a woman, it's just rheumatoid arthritis. It was kinda depressing me for a while thinking I may not be able to find a way around it, but now I know better. Thanks guys! When a one armed dude is able to be a motorcycle messenger, you can ride with arthritis. 
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Feb 27, 2012 19:26
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Yeah, no kidding, that's one of the reasons I really like motorcycles (also, everything else about them). There's even a site that aggregates the stories of multiple amputees that found ways around everything and have been riding for like 20 years. 
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Feb 27, 2012 19:28
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Also: User LeftyChris rides a 'busa with one arm iirc..
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Feb 27, 2012 19:39
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Geirskogul posted:Nothing against good aftermarket R/R units at all. I built my own because A: I'm poor, B: I had most of the parts and all of the knowledge needed to do it and C: I'm poor. Even then, though, I overbuild the poo poo out of anything I replace. That's why my entire motorcycle has no less then 16 gauge wire running through it (most 12 or 14) with soldered, weatherproof connectors and wrap on everything. Also, the color-coding now makes sense. Ain't no shame in this game. You're better off understanding the inner workings and learning that the joke's on the rest of us for paying $150+ for a black box with 14 cents worth of components inside.
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Feb 27, 2012 19:41
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An observer posted:Yeah, no kidding, that's one of the reasons I really like motorcycles (also, everything else about them). There's even a site that aggregates the stories of multiple amputees that found ways around everything and have been riding for like 20 years. I rode with a 'nam vet that had both his legs amputated right above the knee. he had modified the gearshift and linked the front and rear brakes. I go offroading with a guy who's only got control over his right arm and he drives a monstrous 600hp Pre-runner. Some of these guys are downright amazing.
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Feb 27, 2012 20:44
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An observer posted:Yeah, no kidding, that's one of the reasons I really like motorcycles (also, everything else about them). There's even a site that aggregates the stories of multiple amputees that found ways around everything and have been riding for like 20 years. If you need something custom, let me know and I'll do my best to help out. If I can't make the parts myself, I can find someone who can.
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Feb 27, 2012 22:16
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Z3n posted:If you need something custom, let me know and I'll do my best to help out. If I can't make the parts myself, I can find someone who can. I don't know about the US but over here we have a great disabilities arm (heh) of the government who have an amazing wealth of expertise in adjusting all kinds of vehicles for all kinds of disabilities. Can't hurt to ask around.
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Feb 27, 2012 22:30
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I'm fairly confident CA could get almost anyone that had at least a functional limb riding. Everyone here loves to ride and wants other people to share in that love. Between all of us in the hivemind I'm sure we could figure something out.
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Feb 27, 2012 22:40
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So I bought an '85 Fz 750. It's in pretty good shape, and from the looks of it has not suffered anything more than cosmetic damage throughout its life. Since I have access to an entire shopful of tools and painting supplies and crap, I'm thinking I will try and pimp it back up streetfighter style. Anything major I should look out for?
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Feb 28, 2012 00:02
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Thanks for the help with my bodily malfeasance. I've wanted a bike since I was 14, and I'm finally counting down the months. So excited 
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Feb 28, 2012 00:10
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Geirskogul posted:Nothing against good aftermarket R/R units at all. I built my own because A: I'm poor, B: I had most of the parts and all of the knowledge needed to do it and C: I'm poor. Even then, though, I overbuild the poo poo out of anything I replace. That's why my entire motorcycle has no less then 16 gauge wire running through it (most 12 or 14) with soldered, weatherproof connectors and wrap on everything. Also, the color-coding now makes sense. Pics? Maybe you can sell these.
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Feb 28, 2012 00:27
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Total newbie here. I bought my first bike, a Kawasaki KZ650 . Previous owner claims to have it bored out to 750. What other components does this affect? Now say something goes wrong or needs to be replaced, do I troubleshoot with the specs of a 650 or a 750?
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Feb 28, 2012 04:28
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darkhand posted:Total newbie here. The only change would have been the pistons and cylinders, and ideally the jetting. Do you have any concrete proof that this was done? Because otherwise it's highly unlikely it was.
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Feb 28, 2012 04:33
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I figured it was BS, it wasn't really a selling point to me so it doesn't matter either way. He seemed pretty knowledgeable though, I don't know for sure yet. He said the blocks were the same for the KZ650s to 900s of that era('78), they just bored them different sizes. I have no idea how much of that is BS. I'll also add that this is Texas and stories about Cousin Bubba boring out an engine is common smalltalk 'round here 
darkhand fucked around with this message at 04:49 on Feb 28, 2012 |
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Feb 28, 2012 04:38
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darkhand posted:I figured it was BS, it wasn't really a selling point to me so it doesn't matter either way. He seemed pretty knowledgeable though, I don't know for sure yet. The PO is right, a lot of older UJM motors are pretty much modular and just have different barrels.
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Feb 28, 2012 05:10
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What more than likely happened, rather than going through the trouble of boring cylinders is that the 650 pistons and cylinders just got swapped for 750 items. Occams razor and all
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Feb 28, 2012 06:02
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An observer posted:Yeah, no kidding, that's one of the reasons I really like motorcycles (also, everything else about them). There's even a site that aggregates the stories of multiple amputees that found ways around everything and have been riding for like 20 years. Brett Cole has 1 arm and races WERA (Expert, at that)  Here's another local fellow; he's disabled from the waist-down. Does trackdays too. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J7I16bPQM24
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Feb 28, 2012 06:22
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Has anyone ever cleaned carbs with Pine-Sol? I've heard good things about it, especially that it does a good job of cleaning without loving anything up. I have a set of RD400 carbs that need a good dip so I can get the latest project fired up this weekend. Alternatively, I was thinking about getting a cheap ultrasonic cleaner and I suppose I could always get a bucket of Gunk.
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Feb 28, 2012 08:10
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Yerok posted:Has anyone ever cleaned carbs with Pine-Sol? I've heard good things about it, especially that it does a good job of cleaning without loving anything up. I have a set of RD400 carbs that need a good dip so I can get the latest project fired up this weekend. Alternatively, I was thinking about getting a cheap ultrasonic cleaner and I suppose I could always get a bucket of Gunk. I believe Adv rider has a good write up on it. Google it and they should pop up.
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Feb 28, 2012 08:34
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Yerok posted:Has anyone ever cleaned carbs with Pine-Sol? I've heard good things about it, especially that it does a good job of cleaning without loving anything up. I have a set of RD400 carbs that need a good dip so I can get the latest project fired up this weekend. Alternatively, I was thinking about getting a cheap ultrasonic cleaner and I suppose I could always get a bucket of Gunk. It works really well, but find the right dilution for it. I want to say that it's 1:6 pinesol to water, but I'm not positive.
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Feb 28, 2012 15:16
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ADV Pine-Sol thread - http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=560117 I've used it a few times and it works great for larger real filthy stuff because it is cheap. I use it straight when scrubbing with a toothbrush or something, half strength or lower if I'm soaking something over night.
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Feb 28, 2012 17:35
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Actually the ADV Rider thread was how I heard about it. I was just hoping someone could shed some light on what dilution to use. I've heard a lot of different answers including 1:2 and straight Pine-Sol. I'm going to soak the carbs for roughly 12-18 hours then scrub them out and blast them with compressed air. Would 1:2 be alright for a shorter soak like that?
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Feb 28, 2012 17:42
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That's s neat trick, though I would avoid using anything but distilled/RO water to do the soak with to avoid the chances of mineral deposits screwing up a spray pattern or clogging some tiny delicate little passageway. Tap *might* not have enough minerals in it to cause an issue but why not spend the $1.80 for a few gallons to erase the chance. Plus you always need distilled for something when you've got vehicles, and drat if you're not always fresh out when it's needed or at least extremely inconvenient not to have it.
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Feb 28, 2012 18:12
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I've worked on vehicles a bunch and have never needed distilled water. What am I missing?
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Feb 28, 2012 19:25
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Ziploc posted:I've worked on vehicles a bunch and have never needed distilled water. What am I missing? I use distilled for coolant etc. Mix it with some water wetter or 50/50 with antifreeze.
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Feb 28, 2012 19:41
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Anyone sewed conductive thread into their glove fingertips, and any tips if so? On that note, anyone need some conductive thread? The site I got it from had a minimum of 85 feet... Also, while I'm asking, if anyone happens to order something from http://easternbeaver.com any time soon and wouldn't mind tacking on something to the order, please let me know. I'll pay shipping etc. of course. I need a connector (http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/NT-040/nt-040.html) that costs 2.50 and the minimum order is 20 bucks. I haven't been able to find that connector anywhere else and there's nothing else I need at the site to meet that 20 bucks. I'll probably end up just getting some aftermarket connectors but I was trying to stick with what came on the bike.
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Feb 28, 2012 20:52
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nsaP posted:Anyone sewed conductive thread into their glove fingertips, and any tips if so? Go look on Amazon for conductive thread. You can get it much smaller sizes, just be picky and look for reviews. Some are not really conductive.
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Feb 28, 2012 20:53
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Already got some from another site actually, I found amazon to be expensive. But what I was saying that part of getting it at another site is that I have 85 feet of it now, and I can't imagine using more than 2 feet a finger, even trimming a lot off. So I was offering it to others
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Feb 28, 2012 20:56
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nsaP posted:Already got some from another site actually, I found amazon to be expensive. But what I was saying that part of getting it at another site is that I have 85 feet of it now, and I can't imagine using more than 2 feet a finger, even trimming a lot off. Oh sorry, I misread your original post then.
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Feb 28, 2012 22:02
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Out of curiosity, are there any kind of mirrors that universally suck/are universally awesome?
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Feb 28, 2012 22:42
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An observer posted:Out of curiosity, are there any kind of mirrors that universally suck/are universally awesome? Napolean bar ends are bitching for sport bikes. I'm not sure about cruisers/standards, I wouldn't put them on a DS though because you WILL drop it and break them.
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Feb 28, 2012 23:25
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nsaP posted:Already got some from another site actually, I found amazon to be expensive. But what I was saying that part of getting it at another site is that I have 85 feet of it now, and I can't imagine using more than 2 feet a finger, even trimming a lot off. I'm sure it isn't as permanent but thermal paste people use on (processors?) will also work if you allow it to dry on a glove finger tip. May or may not be cheaper, not sure.
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Feb 28, 2012 23:39
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On an old '70s 2-stoke, the gearbox oil can pretty much just be 20w50 motorcycle oil right? I don't have a manual for this thing but I figure if it's safe for a wet clutch it's A-OK.
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Feb 29, 2012 05:09
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Basically, yeah. Old two strokes care very little about whats in the gearbox.
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Feb 29, 2012 05:32
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Ziploc posted:I've worked on vehicles a bunch and have never needed distilled water. What am I missing? If you use water with mineral content in your coolant, over time you can develop mineral crusting/blockages and also cause redox reactions that corrode the insides of your cooling system(2 different metals in a charged solution = electricity = corrosion). If you use water with mineral content in your battery, you're essentially adding very dilute baking soda to the acid, which is bad for both lifetime and cranking power.
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Feb 29, 2012 06:21
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clutchpuck posted:On an old '70s 2-stoke, the gearbox oil can pretty much just be 20w50 motorcycle oil right? I don't have a manual for this thing but I figure if it's safe for a wet clutch it's A-OK. Correct.
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Feb 29, 2012 07:10
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Kilersquirrel posted:If you use water with mineral content in your coolant, over time you can develop mineral crusting/blockages and also cause redox reactions that corrode the insides of your cooling system(2 different metals in a charged solution = electricity = corrosion). I buy premix coolant for my car. Which also has a sealed AGM batter. I don't feel so dumb anymore. 
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Feb 29, 2012 15:13
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Are stainless steel brake lines worth getting if I am just using my bike on the road? If they feel a lot better under normal use vs stock lines I think I might get some, but if it's only something that will be useful on the track I could do without.
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Feb 29, 2012 15:47
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NinjaCthulhu posted:Are stainless steel brake lines worth getting if I am just using my bike on the road? If they feel a lot better under normal use vs stock lines I think I might get some, but if it's only something that will be useful on the track I could do without. I didn't notice a huge change when I went to SS lines on the R1. Any benefit I felt could also have been attributed to maybe having had some air in the previous lines. All in all, if you need new lines sure go SS but if you're replacing good lines I wouldn't bother personally.
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Feb 29, 2012 16:55
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NinjaCthulhu posted:Are stainless steel brake lines worth getting if I am just using my bike on the road? If they feel a lot better under normal use vs stock lines I think I might get some, but if it's only something that will be useful on the track I could do without. Definitely worth it if your stock rubber lines are a few years old. You'd be surprised how you dont notice how spongy they get over the years.
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Feb 29, 2012 17:42
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