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The weathertech digitalfits are miles better than the OEM all-season mats, for what it's worth.
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Apr 21, 2011 03:37
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Well, I awoke this morning to find a confirmation email. I apparently ordered my AccessPort last night. Dunno when I'll get it, but I'm sure it will be by next week at the latest. Any tips I should know beforehand? Like update firmware or something?
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Apr 21, 2011 04:44
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Bovine Delight posted:The weathertech digitalfits are miles better than the OEM all-season mats, for what it's worth. Cool, will take that into consideration. Local guy traded in his MS3 and pulled out his parts. He's selling a Cobb TIP for $100; really tempted to pick it up because of the attractive price. Surprisingly, I don't think anyone else near me has one, so I'm not sure how big of a difference it would make. I'm thinking it wouldn't really be something meaningful to have since my only true power mod is an intake, is that correct?
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Apr 21, 2011 14:45
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Sublime Process posted:Well, I awoke this morning to find a confirmation email. I apparently ordered my AccessPort last night. Please let me know how it works out for you. I've wanted to get one but it seems everyone who has one is super hardcore with about 5k in mods.
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Apr 21, 2011 15:54
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 First spring wash and wax. Velocity Red is the only correct Gen2 color.
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Apr 21, 2011 17:49
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Bovine Delight posted:Please let me know how it works out for you. I've wanted to get one but it seems everyone who has one is super hardcore with about 5k in mods. I've been going to the local monthly Cobb meets and met a guy with a Gen2 who has an AP. His is stock and he runs whatever the "stage 1" flash is. He says it increased power, and, apparently, his exhaust isn't as sooty anymore. (Does Stage 1 lean out the mixture or just crank up the boost or something?) Edit: Can anyone answer my fire extinguisher mounting question? MetaJew fucked around with this message at 03:50 on Apr 22, 2011 |
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Apr 22, 2011 03:38
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Slightly off-topic, but Forum Wars Season 2 is running, and next week's episode is MS3 vs. Civic Si. Here's the sneak peek: http://youtu.be/duPs3eDS5go If you follow MSF, the story is all there as well as the results. I know a couple local Mazda club buddies poured a ton of work into helping put that car together. The Honda guys knew about the race for months, while MSF was notified about the challenge 13 days before it took place. In that time, they found a car and a driver, raised $3,000 for parts (intake, downpipe, exhaust, tune, coilovers, endlinks, suspension), and prepped the car, working well into the night prior to the race.
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Apr 22, 2011 20:56
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Cars 101 question: is delaying the replacement of a clutch one of those things that will lead to other components needing to be replaced as well? I found that I'm subconsciously easing my foot off the clutch pedal for a fraction of a second even when going into 3rd or sometimes 4th, and I was told it should catch instantly in those gears without me easing it. Since it doesn't really affect my day to day driving, I would prefer to postpone replacing it if it doesn't damage anything else.
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Apr 23, 2011 17:28
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It depends on the setup, but usually no. The major exception to this is dual-mass flywheel setups like VW uses. A badly slipping clutch can damage the flywheel in these setups. As long as you don't let it get to the point that you can't start in first you're fine. Once it starts slipping up hill it's time for replacement.
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Apr 24, 2011 06:13
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Bovine Delight posted:Please let me know how it works out for you. I've wanted to get one but it seems everyone who has one is super hardcore with about 5k in mods. FedEx got it to me last night, so today is the day. I'll let you know how it goes. Edit: Looking over Cobb's page, the 2010 Speeds get more maps and better results from going Stage 1. I'm running the intake and inlet and there is no map for that for the 07-09s. There is for the '10 though <  > Guess I'll just run Stage 1+ for 93 and see how it goes. 
Sublime Process fucked around with this message at 16:51 on Apr 24, 2011 |
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Apr 24, 2011 15:32
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Did my first AutoCross on Saturday in my 2010 stock MS3:    Video of the course from my friends camera setup: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LCF_bxm2lvQ I wasn't going fast enough through the internal two loops and kept loving up the turn at :53 but it was a really fun time all around. Looking forward to do a couple more and see how I improve.
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Apr 25, 2011 01:59
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Bovine Delight posted:Please let me know how it works out for you. I've wanted to get one but it seems everyone who has one is super hardcore with about 5k in mods. Flashed it to Stage 1+ this evening. Car pulls a lot smoother now; not that it was rough before but it feels more...linear? I can now squeal my tires in 2nd gear (rather than chirp) but I won't say that it makes the car a monster with these mods and flash. I'd say it..makes the monster more consistently evil. Is it worth the $595? Yea, due to the cost behind the R&D that went into it and the future ability to your car for new maps etc. Are you going to stop modding after the intake, tip? Then it may not be worth it. My first impression is part of me*** is slightly let down. I spent $600 for it to even out my ECU and in order to get more results, I have to go Stage 2 which requires the fuel pump ($600-something from CP-E) and the downpipe ($695 from Cobb) However, the car feels like it puts on speed ridiculously fast now. Hitting 50 in 2nd is a breeze and happens sooner than you expect. ***Part of me = I'm overly analytical and read too deep into words from people. I didn't take into consideration when buying the AccessPort that it wouldn't be an all balls out four door rocket with my mods or right off the bat. The car, when driven normally and not at WOT, feels just like it did before. That I'm glad of - it almost seems to have a Jekyll and Hyde persona; calm when you want and vicious when you stomp on it. Overall - I'd say go for it. If anything, you'll learn something more about your car. And hell, if you don't like it - AP's sell for good money and you'll recoup most of your cost.
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Apr 25, 2011 06:39
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So what's the lowdown on the Smart Key? I sadly did not get one wit the car so I want to pick one up but there's no way in hell I'm paying $285 at the dealer for it. Will this one work with my car? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110678617218&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
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Apr 28, 2011 03:49
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Rhyno posted:So what's the lowdown on the Smart Key? I sadly did not get one wit the car so I want to pick one up but there's no way in hell I'm paying $285 at the dealer for it. Will this one work with my car? What year is your car?
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Apr 28, 2011 04:25
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Bovine Delight posted:What year is your car? 2007 Speed6. There shouldn't be any difference between the normal 6 and the Speed6 keyless system right?
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Apr 28, 2011 04:28
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Rhyno posted:2007 Speed6. There shouldn't be any difference between the normal 6 and the Speed6 keyless system right? I don't think there should be a difference between the MZ6 and the MS6, no.
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Apr 28, 2011 14:50
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I'm starting to see wear marks in the leather on my 2010 speed3's steering wheel, from drive around with my thumb in the top left corner. Any idea what I can use to protect it and prevent further damage?
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May 4, 2011 16:30
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Use a decent leather conditioner once a month or so.
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May 4, 2011 17:17
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So my love/like relationship with this car will hopefully one day become a love relationship. I feel like I have treated this car very well since I got it, but have had a few problems crop up that makes me think it may have been in an abusive relationship before :/ About a month ago when I dropped my wife off at the front of a restaurant, as I went to park the car there was a clunk from the back whenever I would start going forward. I nursed it home, and the next day after jacking up the rear my fears were correct. The two bolts holding the front mount of the rear diff were sheared off in the diff housing. I was able to get them fixed at the dealership under warranty. I decided that I was not going to have that nonsense again, so I convinced my wife we needed to spend ~$350 on a new motor mount and diff brace. So I went with the new SURE pieces. They are stunning, and I will be installing the motor mount in about an hour. I need to allot more time for the rear diff brace. Since waffle is down, and I haven't gone plat yet, check the links for the pieces I got. Great price, and amazing(looking) so far! http://www.streetunit.com/SURE_Torq_R6_MAZDASPEED_6_Engine_Mount_p/sure0505-1.htm http://www.streetunit.com/SURE_Motorsports_Dreadnought_Rear_Differential_Bra_p/sure0510.htm I will report back on the noise/vibration/harshness that comes about from them, since the SURE pieces are relatively new and untested to the market. Doing each piece separately will let me see how well each piece changes the driveline feel too.
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May 7, 2011 21:16
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FYI, imgur.com is easy as hell to use and very forums-friendly. Those do look nice. I really need to look at doing some form of aftermarket mounts on my MS3, even if only the softest ones that are still an upgrade from stock.
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May 7, 2011 21:45
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Bovine Delight posted:Please let me know how it works out for you. I've wanted to get one but it seems everyone who has one is super hardcore with about 5k in mods. ~200 Miles later update: Car is civil and drives normally. When you stomp on it though, it pulls very hard up to redline. I don't take it that far, but at 6k it still felt like it was going somewhere. My opinion, if its worth anything, is buy it. Also don't read my edit. Edit: Anyone else have an AP? If I accelerate hard (not WOT) does it seem like it sometimes stutters or struggles sometimes? It's a random intervals, so I can't pinpoint when it happens. I've datalogged and my fuel pressure was ok I think. It ranged from 400 (very low speeds/idle) up to 1700 so I don't think that is the cause. Any thoughts? Sublime Process fucked around with this message at 13:36 on May 11, 2011 |
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May 11, 2011 13:23
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Sublime Process posted:~200 Miles later update: Car is civil and drives normally. When you stomp on it though, it pulls very hard up to redline. I don't take it that far, but at 6k it still felt like it was going somewhere. My opinion, if its worth anything, is buy it. Also don't read my edit. I'm going to guess it's actually fuel cut. It's great to get an AP to monitor things like fuel trims, fuel pressure and knock retard. Unfortunately, the fuel pump is a giant bottle neck in the quest for zoom zoom. I'd say 1700 is ok you get into trouble around 1600, but until you log the entire thing you don't really know. Black Is Black fucked around with this message at 23:42 on May 11, 2011 |
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May 11, 2011 15:31
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I think the passenger side Bose speaker in my 09 MS3 is blown. The car should still be under the bumper to bumper warranty. (15k miles, purchased in June of 2010, I think.) Have any of you guys had problems with the sound system in the GT trim? It sounds like there's cellophane or something crinkly/rattling in the speaker when I play something that has some bass content to it. I have receipts from the previous owner, and I know he had the head unit reflashed or replaced due to some TSB/recall, but there was no mention about the speaker. I just need to find some time to call up the dealer, and figure out what music best causes that problem.
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May 18, 2011 06:04
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This kind of small warranty repair sucks for a dealer. They end up losing on the deal because of the strict amounts Mazda USA will pay for certain jobs. Your best bet on this is to take it in for an oil change and mention that you wanted to get some warranty work for a blown speaker when you make the appointment. If you throw them a bone they're a lot more likely to work with you on something small like that.
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May 18, 2011 13:57
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Well, motivation to take it to the dealership. I cranked it up as I was leaving work and the CEL came on and stayed on. :/ I dropped it off at the dealership on the way home. Hopefully, it's no big deal and they'll get me a new speaker while they're at it.
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May 19, 2011 00:58
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I got the car back this morning. The CEL was for P0455 "Gross Evap Leak". There's apparently a TSB, 01-020/10 for this. The first solution is to clear the code and replace the gas tank cap with some newer, revised model. So that's what they did. If it comes back on, according to this thread, they'll replace the purge solenoid valve. Hopefully it doesn't come to that. They also agreed that my passenger side front speaker was blown, but since it's a Bose speaker they had to order from the parts warehouse. I love having a car that's still under warranty. While I was at the dealership I also picked up an air filter that I'll replace when I get up the courage to also do my cabin air filter. The only real downside to this process is that the tech that must have been sitting in my car to read the CEL was a big smoker, and now the car sort of smells. MetaJew fucked around with this message at 02:00 on May 20, 2011 |
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May 20, 2011 01:56
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MetaJew posted:I got the car back this morning. The CEL was for P0455 "Gross Evap Leak". There's apparently a TSB, 01-020/10 for this. The first solution is to clear the code and replace the gas tank cap with some newer, revised model. So that's what they did. If it comes back on, according to this thread, they'll replace the purge solenoid valve. Hopefully it doesn't come to that. For the smell, get some Ozium. I had my PSV replaced under warranty as well (2008.5 GT) but I don't know if it was actually bad. I originally had an issue where my fuel level kept displaying incorrectly. They repaired that, I went out of town for a week and came back, CEL popped immediately. I pulled the code and it looked related to the PSV. I went back, told them I thought it was the PSV under the TSB, they replaced the PSV and said that was it. CEL popped AGAIN, and I went back a little pissed. Apparently they had forgot to hook up something correctly from the very first trip, so I don't know if the valve itself was toast or not. Never had a problem since, luckily.
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May 20, 2011 02:50
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Bovine Delight posted:For the smell, get some Ozium. I forget if you said earlier-- Are you reading codes with a Cobb AP or some other tool?
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May 20, 2011 03:07
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MetaJew posted:I forget if you said earlier-- Are you reading codes with a Cobb AP or some other tool? Just a code reader.
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May 20, 2011 03:17
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Quick question - what kind of MPG are you guys getting? My commute is almost all highway and I'm struggling to hit more than 24mpg. Tires at 36psi, CAI filter is fine, averaging around 65mph.
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May 20, 2011 05:57
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Bovine Delight posted:Quick question - what kind of MPG are you guys getting? My commute is almost all highway and I'm struggling to hit more than 24mpg. Tires at 36psi, CAI filter is fine, averaging around 65mph. According to aCar, average of 23.825, minimum of 22.069, max of 29.869. I can tell you that max is an outlier as well, pretty much mostly due to lots of highway driving at low speeds for me (aka, driving around LA but avoiding traffic and trying to not pound my back to death). Next best was a 25.9 MPG tank, immediately afterwards even.
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May 20, 2011 08:45
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Bovine Delight posted:Quick question - what kind of MPG are you guys getting? My commute is almost all highway and I'm struggling to hit more than 24mpg. Tires at 36psi, CAI filter is fine, averaging around 65mph. I live in TN, my commute to work and such is probably 30% city, 70% hwy. Before AP, with Cobb SRI and TIP: I was getting consistently 21.3-22.8 After AP Stage 1+ 93 octane, same mods: 24.0-25.7 (buy the AP already) Best mileage so far (long highway drive): 28.8 I think? Got 377 miles on a tank, with ~13 gallons
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May 20, 2011 13:29
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My 2010 MS3 averages a calculated 20.6 MPG. The info display is always about 2 MPG high. I've tracked every tank since new in Fuelly. That's about 50% highway and 50% city. I still haven't taken a straight trip long enough that it was entirely highway on one tank, but my best calculated full tank was 26.9 mpg. I'm confident I could hit 28, maybe 30 if I did an entire tank on the highway. My average could be better, but I've got a heavy foot both on and off the highway.
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May 20, 2011 14:00
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I'm getting 20-22mpg every single tank in my 2011 MS3. I do have a heavy foot though. The average fuel display, as SynMoo says, is always higher than what I'm actually getting. That's with about 90% city driving.
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May 20, 2011 14:36
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Lately my tanks have been around 22 MPG. I've got a bad habit of rocking triple digits on highway trips when the road is wide open with no one else on it. That brings me down a lot.
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May 20, 2011 15:48
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I have averaged ~24 mpg since I've owned my car. But I mostly stay out of boost and stick it in cruise control. This is partly because my commutes to work are short enough that I want to make sure I don't beat on it until the oil's up to temperature. On a drive from Austin to Dallas going somewhere around 70 with CC on the entire way I got 30 mpg. But this was with very little traffic and not much passing. On the drive back I got ~27 (lots of traffic, lots of passing, etc.). These are all calculated by clearing my trip odometer at each fill up and then dividing by the number of gallons purchased. I think the computer consistently reads maybe 2 MPG high. MetaJew fucked around with this message at 17:01 on May 20, 2011 |
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May 20, 2011 16:57
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I can usually stretch 280 miles out of a tank. That's 60 miles round-trip commuting during the week, plus some city driving in the evenings. I find that keeping highway speeds between 65 and 72 leas to the best mileage - cruising any higher and you quickly hit 20mpg or less. Getting into boost, doing one or two strong pulls in a fun gear, seems to ruin a tank. Its also completely loving irresistible. Battle Cattle fucked around with this message at 23:22 on May 20, 2011 |
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May 20, 2011 23:13
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Oh yeah, forgot to mention that my onboard is claiming 26MPG average. I do have 225/40s on the car instead of 215/45s so my odometer and speedo are ever so slightly off. I'll get anywhere from 250 to 300 on a tank, depending on whether I try to get one more 50 mile round trip to work before I fill up or not.
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May 20, 2011 23:44
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Somewhat Heroic posted:So my love/like relationship with this car will hopefully one day become a love relationship. I feel like I have treated this car very well since I got it, but have had a few problems crop up that makes me think it may have been in an abusive relationship before :/ About a month ago when I dropped my wife off at the front of a restaurant, as I went to park the car there was a clunk from the back whenever I would start going forward. I nursed it home, and the next day after jacking up the rear my fears were correct. The two bolts holding the front mount of the rear diff were sheared off in the diff housing. I was able to get them fixed at the dealership under warranty. I decided that I was not going to have that nonsense again, so I convinced my wife we needed to spend ~$350 on a new motor mount and diff brace. So I went with the new SURE pieces. They are stunning, and I will be installing the motor mount in about an hour. I need to allot more time for the rear diff brace. Since waffle is down, and I haven't gone plat yet, check the links for the pieces I got. Great price, and amazing(looking) so far! I installed the SURE street version rmm last month and have been very happy. There was a week of harshness until it bedded in, and now shifting is much better. The inevitable crunch when changing gears has disappeared completely. one of those cost effective "why didn't I do this earlier" solutions. not having driven any SU or Cobb units, I cannot make a comparison.
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May 21, 2011 00:12
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Anyone know if there is a forum that MS3s and MS6 are bought/sold on?
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May 24, 2011 02:59
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