|
MattD1zzl3 posted:Every NB with the 6 speed. I thought the 3.9 was a torsen? E: looks like TF was 03+ only Phone fucked around with this message at 22:27 on Dec 25, 2014 |
#
?
Dec 25, 2014 22:23
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 29, 2024 14:32 |
|
|
Christmas rules
|
|
#
?
Dec 26, 2014 00:48
|
|
|
Rhyno posted:Christmas rules Baller as gently caress.
|
|
#
?
Dec 26, 2014 02:30
|
|
|
Silly question, but the electricals on my Miata are a bit slow right after a start, is this a problem? Wipers are sluggish, windows barely roll up or down - not really a big deal; everything is fine after a minute or two, but if it's an easy fix I'll do it.
|
|
#
?
Dec 26, 2014 03:32
|
|
|
Tommychu posted:ftfy Happy to send the TF for enough money to buy a used torsen.
|
|
#
?
Dec 26, 2014 03:43
|
|
|
Artemis J Brassnuts posted:Silly question, but the electricals on my Miata are a bit slow right after a start, is this a problem? Wipers are sluggish, windows barely roll up or down - not really a big deal; everything is fine after a minute or two, but if it's an easy fix I'll do it. Odd that it only happens soon after a start. The usual advice for electrical problems is to check and clean your grounds, at least at first.
|
|
#
?
Dec 26, 2014 05:21
|
|
|
Rhyno posted:On the NC you can't slide in a CD without hitting the load button. What I thought at first was it was sitting in the actual slot and if you changed the disc it'd break off inside :P
|
|
#
?
Dec 26, 2014 06:29
|
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:Odd that it only happens soon after a start. The usual advice for electrical problems is to check and clean your grounds, at least at first.
|
|
#
?
Dec 26, 2014 18:26
|
|
|
Artemis J Brassnuts posted:Silly question, but the electricals on my Miata are a bit slow right after a start, is this a problem? Wipers are sluggish, windows barely roll up or down - not really a big deal; everything is fine after a minute or two, but if it's an easy fix I'll do it. Other that the mentioned terminals etc., it sounds like your battery is getting sleepy, and starting the engine is taking away most of the battery charge, which is soon enough replaced by a healthy alternator.
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2014 00:18
|
|
|
Someone near me got their hardtop stolen: http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/pts/4819214761.html Do the OEM hard tops have some sort of way to slide a locking cable through them? I've never been under one in person.
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2014 08:34
|
|
|
Mine is bolted down where the side latches would be. I think I might have to replace the hex bolts with security torx in the near future...
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2014 15:18
|
|
|
Has anyone had or heard of this problem with Miata batteries? I go through this at least once a month with this battery, clean it all off then it comes back, has disintegrated two terminal bolts so far. Had it tested and it checks out fine, used the corrosion pads and greased the terminals as well, vents are clear. Nothing has worked and this is starting to piss me off. Only thing I can think of is a small terminal leak maybe. The battery is over four years old so I'm thinking of just getting a new one....Who has the best prices these days? Online or should I just go to autozone?
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2014 04:25
|
|
|
That looks just like the last leaky battery I had. It would shoot up blue poo poo like that over and over relentlessly for weeks until it finally got cold enough that it died altogether trying to start.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2014 06:19
|
|
|
Yep. Looks like Amazon is the way to go, Marathon AGM $97 shipped. Have to get a battery for the scooter I just bought too, what the gently caress. [edit] some guy on Mnet says a light coat of paint after cleaning will stop it. Sounds retarded but I've seen crazier poo poo work 
Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 06:33 on Dec 28, 2014 |
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2014 06:26
|
|
|
So the alarm on my NB occasionally goes off when I unlock the driver-side door. Lock it and unlock it again and it's fine. Last winter it did it a few times a week for a month or so, then nothing till last week when it did it again. If you listen closely, you can usually here a couple of clicks after the central locking noise; when you don't hear that that's when the alarm sounds sounding. Any ideas? Fact that it's been fine all summer suggests temperature related, but I've no idea how or why. That said if it is temperature related when it happened last week it was outside overnight on a pretty cold night (normally it's garaged). Basically, is my car whinging at me for having to put up with a cold night outdoors?
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2014 15:08
|
|
|
Fellow NC owners: how long does your car take to warm up from cold to it's normal operating temp? Mine seems to take quite a while for an engine so small.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2014 19:28
|
|
|
Check your thermostat. Every car I've ever had that took too long to warm up had a stuck thermostat, and thankfully it's a cheap fix for most cars.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2014 19:41
|
|
|
Nocheez posted:Check your thermostat. Every car I've ever had that took too long to warm up had a stuck thermostat, and thankfully it's a cheap fix for most cars. My NA might have this, it takes like 30 minutes to get up there, and still hovers around 40% of the way into the gauge
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2014 20:30
|
|
|
A MIRACLE posted:My NA might have this, it takes like 30 minutes to get up there, and still hovers around 40% of the way into the gauge Yep, my NA had a busted thermostat too and did basically that. When I got it open it turned out that it was a generic parts-store thermostat with no jiggle pin or bypass. All but the Mazda OE ones seem crappy.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2014 20:37
|
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:Yep, my NA had a busted thermostat too and did basically that. When I got it open it turned out that it was a generic parts-store thermostat with no jiggle pin or bypass. Didn't the Miata use those funny 2-stage thermostats too? On a Festiva if you used any stat that wasn't a 2 stage (even with a goddamn BP swap that retains the tiny B3 rad) the engine wouldn't get anywhere near operating temp unless ambient was well over 20c.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2014 20:46
|
|
|
Taco Box posted:Fellow NC owners: how long does your car take to warm up from cold to it's normal operating temp? Mine seems to take quite a while for an engine so small. Do you have an '06? Mazda changed the thermostat design in the middle of the production cycle of that year; early cars tend to have thermostats that go bad.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2014 21:14
|
|
|
MrLogan posted:Do you have an '06? Mazda changed the thermostat design in the middle of the production cycle of that year; early cars tend to have thermostats that go bad. Mine's a 2008. I also found out that the heavy rains and the long drives I had this weekend means I have a soaked driver carpet. I think the little foam backed nuts under the cowl failed since the floor isn't wet at the back near the top, but under the pedals. The little foam nuts that held down the high mount brake light failed and have been replaced so it stands to reason the cowl ones would fail too.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2014 23:14
|
|
|
Tommychu posted:Didn't the Miata use those funny 2-stage thermostats too? On a Festiva if you used any stat that wasn't a 2 stage (even with a goddamn BP swap that retains the tiny B3 rad) the engine wouldn't get anywhere near operating temp unless ambient was well over 20c. It does, yeah. The parts-store thermostat I removed bore no resemblance to the Mazda one I put in. Really awful in -30'C, let me tell you.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2014 23:22
|
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:It does, yeah. The parts-store thermostat I removed bore no resemblance to the Mazda one I put in. Really awful in -30'C, let me tell you. I ran that bloody Festiva for a whole winter on the B3 with a generic thermostat before the swap, so I know all about that. With a billet shift knob and stripped interior.  is all well and good until your palm freezes to your shifter. And although it had a roof, most of my driving occured with both windows down to keep the windshield from frosting on the inside. But you know, that little prick cold-started better than any vehicle I've owned before or since -on a 7 year old battery to boot- so all in all it wasn't that bad.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2014 05:12
|
|
|
Thanks for the tip on the coils, that seems to have cleared it right up. Just in time for the windshield wipers to die. I got one really slow sweep and then a dead stop. Equal chance of motor/relay or is one significantly more likely?
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2014 14:46
|
|
|
Otteration posted:Other that the mentioned terminals etc., it sounds like your battery is getting sleepy, and starting the engine is taking away most of the battery charge, which is soon enough replaced by a healthy alternator. Also, the shop I took it to for a quick look over said that they couldn't tell if the timing belt had been done (car has ~130k miles on it). Are there any symptoms I can feel for, or is it just one of those "you'll know it's too late once it's grenaded your engine" things?
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2014 21:49
|
|
|
2000 is still the older pre-VVT engine, right? I know those are non-interference so the only real downside of letting the timing belt go "snap" is that you'll need to get the car towed. You won't get any hot valve-in-piston action. I think the VVT engines are non-interference too but I never bothered paying close enough attention to later NBs that weren't the MSM.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2014 22:16
|
|
|
All stock BPs are non-interference. So yeah, if it snaps you're good. Just ask Phone.
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2014 00:29
|
|
|
Artemis J Brassnuts posted:Thanks for the tip. I found two grounds that looked fine on the left and right side of the engine bay; battery and terminals look new but some water has pooled in the battery compartment. How many grounds does a 2000 have? If everything is acting is acting the same way (i.e., lights dim, wipers slow) then the only ground to check is probably the battery ground, on the other end of the "-" cable, away from the battery. And I suppose the pos and neg terminals to and from the fuse boxes. I have an 01 and found a wiring diagram via the garage section at miata.net. Look around for an 00 diagram - I'd guess they're out there.
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2014 05:09
|
|
|
FatCow posted:All stock BPs are non-interference. So yeah, if it snaps you're good. Just ask Phone. Keyword being stock. It's actually fairly easy to deck to the point where it's now an interference engine, a little over .010" (0.012-0.015 IIRC) on most BPs will do it unless a HG spacer is used.
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2014 05:15
|
|
|
I suppose I should post up my MX5 now that I've left the joys of BMW ownership and moved on to better things. It's probably a little for anyone who likes a stock MX5, but it's mine and it drives like a dream compared to my old heavy E36.Everything is as I got the car, MeisterR coilovers, cone intake with some home made looking carbon heatshield (actual carbon someone's laid, not a wrap!), new roof (no idea what make, it's got a solid glass window with heated elements, not the squishy plastic one a mk1 should have), Rota Grid-Vs with some silly ET, USDM/JDM rear end (square plate holder instead of rectangular), and a wink mod wired up by what appears to be a monkey. If it rains I have to lock the headlights up otherwise the wink mod freaks out.  
|
|
#
?
Jan 1, 2015 19:28
|
|
|
I hope it was cheap, that car will probably take more money to make good than what buying another one would cost.
|
|
#
?
Jan 1, 2015 19:46
|
|
|
craig588 posted:I hope it was cheap, that car will probably take more money to make good than what buying another one would cost. Zero rust, immaculate interior, 1.8 with Torsen LSD. The only thing I plan on doing is removing the stickers and the wink mod.
|
|
#
?
Jan 1, 2015 19:58
|
|
|
The cone filter is hurting performance and making it louder. The cheap coilovers are giving you a much rougher ride than you would otherwise have to live with. Good thing on the rust though, I thought the flares and bodykit were put on to hide rusted out sections.
|
|
#
?
Jan 1, 2015 20:01
|
|
|
craig588 posted:The cone filter is hurting performance and making it louder. The cheap coilovers are giving you a much rougher ride than you would otherwise have to live with. MeisterR coilovers are the recommended coilover on most MX5 forums, and with a £700 pricetag aren't exactly cheap? I had £120 TA Technix coilovers on a previous car and those were a crashy painful mess, the MR's are quite relaxed and progressive, with the dampers on their softest setting it still handles flat but takes bumps comfier than my E36 ever did! In case it's not clear, I'm not driving it for comfort, it will be taken to track days in the summer (when it's not like -5C in Scotland!) but I do appreciate your critique on the ride. Yeah a lot of people thought that was why there was flares and a kit on it, but the car was bought completely standard about a year ago by a friend of mine, and I have pictures of it from then with not a mark of rust on it. He did all the work to it, then it was sold locally about 4 months ago. When it popped back up for sale I bought it due to knowing the history of the car, so I knew it was clean underneath. Louder isn't an issue for me, I forgot to mention the full stainless exhaust with a glasspack de-cat. Will the cone intake still be hurting performance with the increased exhaust bore to match? Also can anyone shed any light on the 14 degree timing mod I've heard of? I only run the car on 99 octane and above (I can get 101+ locally also) so if it makes a difference, I'll do it!
|
|
#
?
Jan 1, 2015 20:18
|
|
|
alexnessie posted:Louder isn't an issue for me, I forgot to mention the full stainless exhaust with a glasspack de-cat. Will the cone intake still be hurting performance with the increased exhaust bore to match? Also can anyone shed any light on the 14 degree timing mod I've heard of? I only run the car on 99 octane and above (I can get 101+ locally also) so if it makes a difference, I'll do it! Your increased exhaust bore is hurting your performance too.  Edit: Timing RillAkBea fucked around with this message at 20:35 on Jan 1, 2015 |
|
#
?
Jan 1, 2015 20:32
|
|
|
RillAkBea posted:Your increased exhaust bore is hurting your performance too. I'll need to get out the calipers and see how much over standard it is, I'm aware the rear box is bigger bore than standard, but I haven't checked to see if anything ahead of it is. I know there's a de-cat but like I say, I haven't checked to see if the downpipe or anything else is larger than standard. It's shiny though.  I'll definitely look into the timing mod though, thanks for that.
|
|
#
?
Jan 1, 2015 20:49
|
|
|
You might look into removing that mousetrap roll bar, too. Those cheap ones with no real supports will fold over with fore/aft loading.
|
|
#
?
Jan 1, 2015 22:10
|
|
|
Larrymer posted:You might look into removing that mousetrap roll bar, too. Those cheap ones with no real supports will fold over with fore/aft loading. Ideally I'd like a full cage but the ones I've seen look awful and being Scotland, I need the roof. Is there a particular roll bar that's popular? Bonus points for being able to mount harnesses too.
|
|
#
?
Jan 1, 2015 22:35
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 29, 2024 14:32 |
|
|
alexnessie posted:Ideally I'd like a full cage but the ones I've seen look awful and being Scotland, I need the roof. Is there a particular roll bar that's popular? Bonus points for being able to mount harnesses too. TR Lane's roll bar is pretty popular. Made in Gloucestershire, IIRC.
|
|
#
?
Jan 2, 2015 00:45
|
|
