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bolind posted:I have a Fusion 360 question, and 3D Printer Expert Extraordinaire and all around awesome poster Queen Combat directed me to this very thread. It sounds like what you want should be pretty simple in Fusion 360, if I understand what you're trying to achieve. If you make a basic rectangular cube thing for the bottom of your model (sketch a big rectangle, stop sketch, extrude up a couple of mm), then you can sketch on the top face of that with the shapes you want. Then, extrude those sketches up to whatever height. Repeat for as many objects as you want raised up out of the bottom bit.
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Dec 30, 2018 12:36
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bolind posted:I have a Fusion 360 question, and 3D Printer Expert Extraordinaire and all around awesome poster Queen Combat directed me to this very thread. If there's USGS (or equivalent) digital elevation map data available for the area, it's usually pretty easy to convert the DEM into usable 3D objects. If you search for "DEM to <whatever 3D format you want>" you should be able to find free tools for everything, whether you just need it for on-screen display or you want to make a printable model.
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Dec 30, 2018 15:06
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Take a look at the scupt environment in Fusion 360. You need to turn off the capture design history timeline to make it show up.
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Dec 30, 2018 16:09
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Jestery posted:It seems to struggle with infill and the bridging layer above infill, even when I set infill to the same speed as everything else. It Just wants to struggle to extrude. A long time ago I used to get partial nozzle clogs when printing infill because Slic3r would try to put down like a 3mm long trace at 30+ mm3/s (cubic, not linear) which would foul the drive gear and make my infill come out underextruded. I ended up writing a program to dump out every "stroke" of gcode along with the trace width and volumetric speed so I could find the bug. You might have found a similar corner case?
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Dec 30, 2018 19:04
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I needed a counterweight for my camera gimbal to balance my new camera and heavy lens. I was going to buy one online but decided to make my own with a screw and ten washers. It worked but didn't look very professional. So I designed and 3D printed an enclose. When the printer got to the appropriate height I stopped it and put the washers in. Then I started it back up and the printer enclosed the washers nice and snug. Looks much more professional now and only cost me like a $1.50 in parts at Home Depot instead of like $10-15 an Amazon.
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Dec 30, 2018 19:31
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The new alpha of slic3r PE seems to work nice. The UI improvements are worth it.
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Dec 30, 2018 19:38
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So I was having reliability issues with my Einsy Rambo. Klipper kept reporting data transmission issues, which led me to a tail chase of trying different cables, PSUs, try to figure and resolve grounding issues and god knows what, until I've been tipped off that the Einsy Rambo ships with buggy firmware on the tiny Atmega32u2, which does the USB-to-serial communication. What the gently caress, Prusa?
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Dec 30, 2018 21:31
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CapnBry posted:If you're using Slic3r you might want to check the Preview tab with the view set to volumetric flow rate and make sure the infill is the same color as the parts that print OK. Also check to make sure your Print Settings -> Speed -> Acceleration control and Autospeed don't have any wacky values in them. I think you know this but the bridging layer (first solid layer after infill) prints at bridge extrusion speed, nozzle width, and uses the bridging flow ratio multiplier so maybe one of those three is mucking with the rate as well? I'll give that a look, thanks man
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Dec 30, 2018 22:04
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Combat Pretzel posted:The new alpha of slic3r PE seems to work nice. The UI improvements are worth it.
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Dec 30, 2018 22:09
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Configuration > Mode > Expert will show them all. --edit: Well, that's for the 1.42 alpha. 1.41 seems to show all regardless, it seems.
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Dec 30, 2018 22:23
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I've been working on a self-driving R/C car, for which I'll be 3D printing various parts for mounting sensors and electronics and such (the actual vehicle structure will be all stock). I've printed one major part in ABS, though I've been thinking about switching to PETG as it's easier to work with (PLA is probably too brittle for what I'm doing). What are some good options for reasonably priced PETG filament? My printer is a Makergear M2 with the dual V4 extruder, in case it matters.
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Dec 31, 2018 02:43
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AmazonBasics petg is actually surprisingly good.
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Dec 31, 2018 03:11
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Cockmaster posted:I've been working on a self-driving R/C car, for which I'll be 3D printing various parts for mounting sensors and electronics and such (the actual vehicle structure will be all stock). I've printed one major part in ABS, though I've been thinking about switching to PETG as it's easier to work with (PLA is probably too brittle for what I'm doing). What are some good options for reasonably priced PETG filament? My printer is a Makergear M2 with the dual V4 extruder, in case it matters. AmazonBasics worked pretty well for me at 255 C nozzle temp and 80 C bed temp. I've used their blue and it's decent. There's usually sales on a color or two for 16.99 and the rest are 19.99, but there's also some discounted multipacks, like three black for $40 right now or 5 colors for $80: https://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Printer-Filament-1-75mm-Translucent/dp/B07D6C6HYB/ I also bought red and green transparent Stronghero PETG and it works fine but it's nowhere near as transparent after printing unless the parts are thin (obviously). I found that it was a bit stringier than the AmazonBasics but ended up being about the same. I printed it a little hotter at 260 C nozzle temp and got a good surface finish: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D76XB5D/ Here's some prototypes I did in Stronghero green and AmazonBasics blue. The surface isn't super smooth due to my nozzle being a bit worn but the final ones ended up being nicer. Pardon the dust:  
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Dec 31, 2018 03:27
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Rexxed posted:AmazonBasics worked pretty well for me at 255 C nozzle temp and 80 C bed temp. I've used their blue and it's decent. There's usually sales on a color or two for 16.99 and the rest are 19.99, but there's also some discounted multipacks, like three black for $40 right now or 5 colors for $80: Is their ABS any good?
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Dec 31, 2018 05:41
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I prefer WYZworks ABS for layer adhesion, but the colors aren't as "poppy" as others. I've had delamination on AzB stuff, but of course could be my settings. WYZ just works. eSun is good enough, except their black was ruining my nozzles through pigment clogs. Hatchbox has good filaments but I've had more than one roll be wound so tightly it bound on extrusion, multiple times, so I stopped buying their stuff.
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Dec 31, 2018 05:54
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Cockmaster posted:Is their ABS any good? I don't print a ton of ABS so I usually just buy it on sale. I haven't tried AmazonBasics but I've had good luck with eSun and Honeycomb Drone ABS. I wouldn't pay the $30/roll price for honeycomb, though, my rolls were $11-12 each. I have seen folks in the thread specifically suggest eSun ABS+ for less warping. With regular eSun ABS I got some warping and layer separation until I got an all metal hotend and cranked up the heat a bit.
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Dec 31, 2018 05:58
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esun ABS+ is really great for functional prints where you don't care about smoothing with acetone. ABS+ doesn't really smooth with acetone.
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Dec 31, 2018 16:19
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jubjub64 posted:esun ABS+ is really great for functional prints where you don't care about smoothing with acetone. ABS+ doesn't really smooth with acetone. How is it with ambient temp? I stopped using ABS because of adhesion issues and I don't want to gently caress with an enclosure.
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Dec 31, 2018 16:33
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Cockmaster posted:PLA is probably too brittle for what I'm doing jubjub64 posted:esun ABS+ is really great for functional prints where you don't care about smoothing with acetone. ABS+ doesn't really smooth with acetone. AlexDeGruven posted:How is it with ambient temp? I stopped using ABS because of adhesion issues and I don't want to gently caress with an enclosure. Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 16:46 on Dec 31, 2018 |
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Dec 31, 2018 16:43
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AlexDeGruven posted:How is it with ambient temp? I stopped using ABS because of adhesion issues and I don't want to gently caress with an enclosure. I haven't used it without an enclosure so I couldn't say but it definitely doesn't shrink as much as ABS. I probably wouldn't use it without an enclosure to be honest. I print mine at 260 with the bed at 100 with an enclosure. I still get warping on any overhang over 45 degrees if I don't use supports. jubjub64 fucked around with this message at 16:50 on Dec 31, 2018 |
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Dec 31, 2018 16:46
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jubjub64 posted:I haven't used it without an enclosure so I couldn't say but it definitely doesn't shrink as much as ABS. I probably wouldn't use it without an enclosure to be honest. I print mine at 260 with the bed at 100 with an enclosure. I still get warping on any overhang over 45 degrees if I don't use supports. Hmmm... I think I'll stick with HTPLA and PETG for my stronger prints, then.
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Dec 31, 2018 17:03
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You're printing the ABS+ too hot probably. I've been doing my Voron parts at 235°C and a 90°C bed, and adhesion is fine.
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Dec 31, 2018 17:17
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Combat Pretzel posted:You're printing the ABS+ too hot probably. I've been doing my Voron parts at 235°C and a 90°C bed, and adhesion is fine. I run 245° first layer, 240° remainder, 90° bed, and it works great. ABS+ is really a fantastic material.
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Dec 31, 2018 19:50
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I was having layer adhesion problems at lower temperatures.
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Dec 31, 2018 20:01
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Verizian posted:Anyone have any experience with the Monoprice Mini Delta or the Select Mini V2? duffmensch posted:Is Select Mini Pro not an option? It’d be worth it for the bed leveling alone, though the bed is probably going to be warped still. This one? https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07J26L7JH At that price I might as well get one with a bigger build area. I want to buy through Amazon so it can be easily returned if there's any problems as a lot of reviews mention issues with monoprice support and invalid warranties when purchased in the UK. So the models I've looked at are. DELTA BAD! Maker Select V2. i3 clone, good unless the magic smoke comes out or the connectors start a fire. Mini pro. Comparatively expensive and 1 star amazon review due to print bed problems. Mini v2. Costs more and seems worse? Maker Select Plus without the electronics problems from the V2, smaller community so harder to find tweaks but mechanically similar to the V2/i3, Amazon delivery may result in bent bed or frame. I'm leaning towards the MS Plus and a £13 borosilicate bed replacement Then I'll pick up an all metal nozzle at a later date. Would an adhesive thermal CPU paste work for attaching the glass to the bed? I've mostly seen bulldog clips or adhesive pads but can't find a pad the correct size. Sorry to ask a question in the thread then vanish for 2 weeks but this time of year is full of distractions.
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Dec 31, 2018 23:33
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Verizian posted:This one? https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07J26L7JH At that price I might as well get one with a bigger build area. I want to buy through Amazon so it can be easily returned if there's any problems as a lot of reviews mention issues with monoprice support and invalid warranties when purchased in the UK. I've had the Maker Select v2 for about a year and a half now. It's a solid printer but I did immediately upgrade to a mosfet board to alleviate the potential fire hazard of a connector on the Melzi board it comes with. I also setup the angled rods people suggested to make it more rigid (although in retrospect I'm not sure those were needed). I also eventually got a glass bed and an all-metal hotend so I could more reliably print hotter stuff like ABS, Nylon, etc. So while the MS is a good printer, it took me a lot of upgrades to improve it. That's going to be true of all of the cheaper printers, but I just got a Creality Ender 3 for my second printer and I'm pretty impressed with the performance it has right out of the box. It does require more assembly than the MS did because it's a kit, but it's not that much assembly. The motion system feels a little bit better right away and there's some better design choices in some spots. For example, the front pulley on the y-axis for the maker select is secured into a metal plate with a screw. It's only attached on the one side. Mine seems to have gotten a little bent after being pulled on so much. On the Ender 3 it's way more secure being attached right on the end of the aluminum extrusion that the bed runs on underneath. Also on the Maker Select, the print head starts running into the top bar at around 150mm and hits a stop on one side around then, too, causing the X axis to get all crooked and required some re-aligning after that. It's advertised as 180mm build height but it's hard to get over 150 without horrible grinding sounds and having to straighten the axis afterwards. The ender 3 has been designed to get a lot closer to its 250mm advertised height. I'm not saying that you have to buy an Ender 3, and I just got mine so I don't have a ton of time with it, but it seems like in the couple of years between when the Maker Select was designed and the Ender 3 was designed, things got re-engineered to be a little bit better out of the box. I'm already printing little upgrades for the Ender 3 because like all of these inexpensive 3d printers it's built to a price point, but it feels like there's more serious gaps with the Maker Select design over the Ender 3. That all said, I own the regular Maker Select v2.1 and not the Plus, so there may be some other differences there. I don't know all of the differences between the MS and the MS Plus. Also the Maker Select was about $300 USD when I got it and the Ender 3 was $175. They're almost the same price now. edit: I forgot to mention fan upgrades because the stock fans are pretty noisy. I put a 40mm noctua on my Maker Select and the Ender 3 fan is not going to last long because it's already annoying me. Rexxed fucked around with this message at 00:53 on Jan 1, 2019 |
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Jan 1, 2019 00:25
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For filaments like PETG where you add a nice layer of gluestick to a surface like PEI, how much glue do you have to add? I thought I was putting on a hefty layer, but apparently not. I had a big round piece spot welded onto my build plate. Had to crank the bed temp up to 105 C to soften it up a bit so I could get enough leverage to pry the bastard off. I just got my PrintedSolid V2 enclosure for my Taz 6, so I'll be trying out some ABS tomorrow. 
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Jan 1, 2019 00:27
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For PETG I don't use gluestick, I wipe with windex or any auto-glass spray. Also keep in mind the first layer height for PETG should be higher than other filaments, less squish. When I DO use glue stick, I go in a crosshatch pattern. Left and right, let dry, up and down. Like a good bacon weave.
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Jan 1, 2019 00:45
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Hey guys, hoping someone can offer some advise on this issue. Using a bone stock Ender 3, everything worked fine for a bit (well, for someone with zero print experience) but lately it's doing this poo poo and I can't complete a print. Basically, one corner or side is fine but you can see how it gradually gets worse from one side to another and sort of "spaghettis" for lack of a better word. Here's a pic: EdsTeioh fucked around with this message at 02:06 on Jan 1, 2019 |
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Jan 1, 2019 01:56
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Unlevel bed. To be more useful, a quick search tells me that the bed is mounted on some thumbscrews. You'll want to start by raising the left side. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2874536 Aurium fucked around with this message at 02:16 on Jan 1, 2019 |
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Jan 1, 2019 02:10
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PirateDentist posted:I just got my PrintedSolid V2 enclosure for my Taz 6, so I'll be trying out some ABS tomorrow. That didn't take long to assemble, maybe 1h45m. All the side panels except the middle are ABS, they're just REALLY shiny on the inside. I'll probably give them a light sanding to tone down the reflections.  Also seen is my test fit of some LED strips inside the left and top frame rail. The pi camera in front smacks into the enclosure if it goes all the way to the limit switch. Not sure if it gets that far out in normal operation. I'm headed out for NYE stuff in a few, so all future testing will happen next year. 
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Jan 1, 2019 02:54
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Rexxed posted:I've had the Maker Select v2 for about a year and a half now. It's a solid printer but I did immediately upgrade to a mosfet board to alleviate the potential fire hazard of a connector on the Melzi board it comes with. I also setup the angled rods people suggested to make it more rigid (although in retrospect I'm not sure those were needed). I also eventually got a glass bed and an all-metal hotend so I could more reliably print hotter stuff like ABS, Nylon, etc. I'd seen the Ender 3 but thought monoprice was still the big name since last I looked into 3D printers. I'll definitely be going for that one as every issue I've found for it seems to have a fix that's generally "print this poo poo off thingiverse" and the assembly looks considerably easier than setting up a guitar with a floyd rose bridge.
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Jan 1, 2019 03:26
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I've been trying to find a specific grommet / strain relief for my bike without much luck for a few days, so I thought why not try to make it myself? Model it up:  You can probably tell I've never designed a mold before:  Print it out:  Ram some RTV rubber into it:  Now I'm just waiting for it cure  . I have a feeling the silicone I used was too thick and mold probably laughably bad, so may not have got into all the fine details. Might try some flowable silicone if it fails.Being able to do this stuff in an afternoon rules
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Jan 1, 2019 19:58
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I 3d printed a bed full of two piece plastic rivets, they work a little like a zip strap. Punching a hole in a couple layers cardboard and riveting them with these is so goddamn satisfying and it rules I could just make them myself and get on with my project in an afternoon.
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Jan 1, 2019 20:32
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simmyb posted:Being able to do this stuff in an afternoon rules
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Jan 1, 2019 22:39
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simmyb posted:I've been trying to find a specific grommet / strain relief for my bike without much luck for a few days, so I thought why not try to make it myself? It does! Next time try Ninjaflex and see if you can skip a step. It's surprisingly tough stuff -- I've had Ninjaflex parts on my motorcycle for years now that are standing up beautifully. Even the shift peg rubber, which gets kicked and stepped on hundreds of times in a ride, still looks brand-new. Oh and your mold looks fine. Looks like you added some extra channels to increase flow that you'll need to cut off -- that makes sense. Having two gates decreases the chance of there being voids in the part, but if the mold was machined I'd bet a dollar that you'd get a bubble at the very top (relative to mold orientation) of the conical part. With a 3D-printed mold the tolerances may be loose enough to let the air escape and just give you a little more flashing to remove. Also you don't need five alignment pins; two or three is fine as long as they're properly sized.
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Jan 1, 2019 23:16
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Combat Pretzel posted:Did you model that on your phone? If so, what kind of animal are you? I tried Onshape once on the phone, it drove me up a wall. I did it on a pc, just used the phone for screen shot. I've modelled some more simple things on my 8" table before and it was slow but fine. Phone is way too small Sagebrush posted:It does! Yeah I wanted to print it, but on holidays at the in laws for a while so working with what I have. Thanks for the mold tips too  the extra pins more for distributing the clamping force but probably still overkill
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Jan 1, 2019 23:31
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My Ender 3's controller board was being powered by the rasberry pi running octoprint. Had to cut the red wire.
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Jan 2, 2019 05:46
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Rexxed posted:My Ender 3's controller board was being powered by the rasberry pi running octoprint. Had to cut the red wire. Hardest working raspberry pi in the galaxy, Morty.
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Jan 2, 2019 05:54
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While I'm still waiting on my plate I've been doing what i can. I did make a benchy that skewed badly, so I tightened my belt a bit. Shame i can't repeat the magic and get a second one printed. I can do calibration cubes, which are a lot more square since I tightened the belt, but I'm getting these lines and I'm not sure if there is something I'm doing wrong or if its a fact of life of 3d printing. http://imgur.com/a/uK2xVDU One day I'll figure out how to link photos on my phone. Any ideas, oh gods of printing?
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Jan 2, 2019 08:01
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