|
Only 2 things in Texas: steers and Miata drivers 
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2015 16:26
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 6, 2024 16:57 |
|
|
Taco Box posted:I'm so friggen geeked to go to this: http://texasmiataroundup.com/ Bluebonnet is the San Antonio Miata club, right? If I don't have my car sold by then that might be a good opportunity for me. I'm going to try my damndest to sell it without resorting to Craigslist if I can.
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2015 18:38
|
|
|
Taco Box posted:I'm so friggen geeked to go to this: http://texasmiataroundup.com/ Have you done it before? Looks interesting.
|
|
#
?
Mar 12, 2015 03:53
|
|
|
Bovril Delight posted:Have you done it before? Looks interesting. I haven't, but I've driven those roads before. Ranch roads 335, 336, and 337 are supposedly the tail of the dragon of Texas. They are awesome and for the most part, deserted. They're so remote that it's just a pain for people to get out there, so most days you get them all to yourself. Lots of those little crosses at corners though. Lots of sheer drop offs and I'm sure a fair number of Layer-Dan's couldn't make the corners.
|
|
#
?
Mar 12, 2015 10:48
|
|
|
155HP @ 6000RPM 148LB-FT @ 4500RPM 90.9" Wheelbase 2332 LBS
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2015 05:04
|
|
|
For reference, the 1994: 128HP @ 6500rpm 110ft-lbs @ 5000rpm 89.2" wheelbase 2293lbs
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2015 05:09
|
|
|
Yeah too heavy and electric steering and no cooled cupholders gently caress you Mazda!!!
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2015 05:29
|
|
|
Just remove the top and unplug the steering fuse then, duh. Wait, no cooled cup holders? RAAAAAAAAAAAGE
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2015 06:22
|
|
|
Cool, a new NB.
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2015 08:51
|
|
|
NC master race, most powerful Miatas ever  
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2015 11:03
|
|
|
JDM specs from 'Best Car' Engine Code: P5-VPS Displacement: 1496cc Bore*Stroke: 74.5*85.8mm Compression ratio: 1:13.0 Max Power: 131ps@7000rpm Max Torque: 15.3kgm@4800rpm Fuel Economy: 21km/l (JC08 Testing) Transmission: 6MT/AT Length: 3915mm Width: 1730mm Height: 1235mm Wheelbase: 2315mm Weight: 1000kg F. Suspension: Double wishbone R. Suspension: Multi-link Tire size: 195/50R16 No current plans to bring the 2L to Japan  EDIT: If you're a fan of JDM, numbers and the metric system, I made a crappy table.  (Pre-ND specs taken from 'Motor Fan's 25th anniversary of the Roadster issue.) Seems like their goals for the Japanese market were just to squeeze it into lower tax bands than the previous car. RillAkBea fucked around with this message at 15:00 on Mar 13, 2015 |
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2015 13:52
|
|
|
RillAkBea posted:Wheelbase: 2135mm Is that a typo? Phone's 90.9" above is ~2309mm which sounds more likely
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2015 14:54
|
|
|
Edmund Honda posted:Is that a typo? Phone's 90.9" above is ~2309mm which sounds more likely If it is a typo, it's not mine. I found a site listing it's 15mm shorter which would make it 2315, which matches up vaguely. EDIT: Updated my previous post. RillAkBea fucked around with this message at 15:00 on Mar 13, 2015 |
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2015 14:57
|
|
|
Phone posted:For reference, the 1994: And for double reference, if you're driving around a '94 and thinking "this is the tits", be aware that it's probably only making like 90hp at this point in time (mine sure is). I would totally buy an ND if it was roomier. My lovely old man back can't do the "wedge-myself-into-small-cars" thing anymore.
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2015 15:30
|
|
|
I'm in love with the nd. I'm already cooking up stupid ways to get the new miata in 2018 or 2020 after my current miata hits ten years old and I'm one of those poors who normally buys used so this includes reshaping my life to afford one
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2015 15:59
|
|
|
My 1990s 65 hp is plenty. Are you guys towing campers with your miatas or something?
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2015 16:24
|
|
|
LeftistMuslimObama posted:And for double reference, if you're driving around a '94 and thinking "this is the tits", be aware that it's probably only making like 90hp at this point in time (mine sure is). I would totally buy an ND if it was roomier. My lovely old man back can't do the "wedge-myself-into-small-cars" thing anymore. My 94 is making like 170hp.  (yay aftermarket ecus and vvt swaps)
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2015 16:51
|
|
|
Phone posted:My 94 is making like 170hp. Is that all it takes to make 170 on a 1.8 NA? Or it bored and stroked and other poo poo?
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2015 17:29
|
|
|
Phone posted:My 94 is making like 170hp. ...what's your gas mileage?
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2015 18:36
|
|
|
Beach Bum posted:...what's your gas mileage? Slightly better than his ego (i keed, i keed)
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2015 18:45
|
|
|
Sadi posted:Is that all it takes to make 170 on a 1.8 NA? Or it bored and stroked and other poo poo? "all it takes" is still in the 3-4,000 range. If you want cheap power turbos are still the way to go.
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2015 19:32
|
|
|
craig588 posted:"all it takes" is still in the 3-4,000 range. If you want cheap power turbos are still the way to go. How so? VVT head isn't all that much and a megasquirt can run VVT to my understanding. That said I haven't read if you'd need a new intake or exhaust as well. All in all doesn't seem bad and you wouldn't have the heat soak issues of boost, or the lag of a turbo.
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2015 21:45
|
|
|
He has a custom exhaust and I'm pretty sure a custom intake. The fuel rail needs to be replaced with a custom one, possibly including modified injectors. He's running a much more expensive ECU than Megasquirt and the VVT engine has higher compression so you're only running premium fuel. A VVT engine into a NA is hardly a drop in swap. Then there's the cost of the tuning time.
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2015 21:59
|
|
|
I'm still a little freaked out that the ND is slightly lighter than my 97. Mazda should put on a clinic for the other automakers.
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2015 22:42
|
|
|
craig588 posted:He has a custom exhaust and I'm pretty sure a custom intake. The fuel rail needs to be replaced with a custom one, possibly including modified injectors. He's running a much more expensive ECU than Megasquirt and the VVT engine has higher compression so you're only running premium fuel. A VVT engine into a NA is hardly a drop in swap. Then there's the cost of the tuning time. At which point you're probably better off doing the Honda K swap.
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2015 23:46
|
|
|
Any tire recommendations for the MSM? I have the stock 17" rims, which as far as I know are all straight; this car has had a total of 3 bent ones replaced (1 by me, 2 by the PO), and I swear to Obama that if I get one more bent rim I'm scrapping them all for 6ULs, period. That being said, I'm looking for maximum dry weather traction, street use only. The only time this car sees rain is when I misjudge a weather forecast (or it's wrong) and get caught out there in the wet. I have the other car for lovely weather. (Basically, the Miata comes out when the top can come down.) The current tires are Nitto NeoGens, which I guess are fine, but I think they're starting to show their age as last year I would start to slide under hard cornering (like 40 mph.) They still have tread (I have to wait until I pull the car out of storage to measure it though) but my main problem is that I drive so little (like 8k miles per year, split between two cars) that the tires dry rot well before I come anywhere close to actually wearing down the tread. Consequently, I'm 100% OK with a high-performance low-treadwear tire that only lasts me a couple of years (seriously, 2 years or 8-10k miles would be acceptable if they otherwise stick like glue on the road.) The NeoGens are apparently UHP all-season, and again they seemed fine for the 3 years I've had them (they're 4-5 years old) aside from the very end of last year, but I only need Summer tires. With that being said, I have 7 choices on TireRack in the "Summer Passenger Tires" section: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/TireS...ating=S&tab=All 2 Max Performance, 5 Ultra High Performance. For some reason there aren't currently any Extreme Performance tires available.  They're basically all very reasonably priced (although the Potenza RE050A is 2-3 times any of the others...) so cost isn't an issue. I know someone with a Fiat 500 Abarth who loves his Pirellis, and I have no problem with those (plus there's a mail-in rebate.) Should I go with those, or instead one of the UHP tires? I'm normally a stats guy, but it's hard to compare tires based on the surveys and reviews (especially for different vehicles) and there aren't many outliers in these categories. All 7 of the tires listed have good reviews & surveys.Does anyone have a preference/suggestion?
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2015 05:24
|
|
|
A junkyard VVT swap is a few grand, a K swap approaches 10k for everything. It's been hashed over a few times, but the VVT swap is pretty straight forward and we'll documented. Even though I'm running an AEM EMS-4 that I haven't touched (I'm lazy and bad), the MS3 is the better ECU since documentation is way better and it tunes on VE versus loving around with PWM controls for everything. Here's the short list for putting in a VVT motor into an NA(8): 800-1000: Junkyard 01-05 motor 800: Megasquirt 3 (e.g. - reverant built) 200: AEM Uego WB02 400: RB header 200: Local 2.25-2.5" header back 100: New NB1 fuel rail 25: Used 1.6L FPR 175: Biggest CAI you can make with silicone elbows and a Dryflow Sum ~$2900-3100. The extras include getting a square top for more high end power or a VICS for more midrange (EUDM intakes go for 400 all day, no idea about the VICS; the VTCS manifold is junk). Skunk2 throttle body if you want to make sure it won't blow up due to spinning a bad motor too fast (350). I don't think an OE clutch will last that long with the uprated torque, but it should be fine for street driving. Toss in a LWFW if you're feeling saucy. If you're not a lazy, awful piece of poo poo like me, you can easily make 145whp+ with this setup by properly tuning it. There are more than a few people running junkyard VVT motors in TT/PTD hitting mid-150s on a Dynojet. If anyone has questions, I'm more than willing to help out. I'm pretty critical of things, but the VVT swap is a pleasure to drive and I can take off the "A REAL RACE CAR DRIVER" hat since I know that blowing close to 10k on garbage isn't the answer for people with brains. E: answer time Gas mileage? I average 25mpg scooting around town. 10 on track. I usually fill up when there's 260+ miles on the odometer since that's when it hits E and I put in just over 10 gallons. Fuel poo poo? I'm running NB2 injectors. They're purple and much smaller than the ones that came stock. "Put a turbo on it"? You start chasing all sorts of stuff with turbos and managing heat can become a pain. You at least need to put an intercooler on it, maxing out a small turbo isn't too hard, you'll definitely need RX-8 injectors or something else for fuel quite fast. Clutch is a gimme. Make more than 200ft-lbs and you'll wind up getting good at swapping out 5-speeds if you drive it like you stole it. Driving a turbo Miata is really fun, but the cheap turbo route still has a bunch of non-apparent costs associated with it. Phone fucked around with this message at 08:03 on Mar 14, 2015 |
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2015 07:56
|
|
|
A NB1 fuel rail and a 1.6 FPR is all I need to hook up to the 1.8 NA fuel system? I've had a VVT engine, new exhaust, and MS ECU sitting around pretty much stalled because I thought I needed a custom fuel rail and I figured I'd just wait until I blew up the old engine before spending custom machine time money. I mentioned it in your thread, but you basically built the car I would have if I wasn't so lazy about it.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2015 08:34
|
|
|
Yeah, dude. You bolt the FPR upside down and bend the return hard line a bit so it'll clear the manifold. My original thread probably has a post dedicated to it somewhere.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2015 08:56
|
|
|
Well, then! I already have a junkyard motor in my NB2  so while Megasquirt is still kinda expensive, that's not too bad overall. Do you have any dyno charts?
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2015 11:12
|
|
|
Will an sbc fit? Because that sounds like less hassle
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2015 11:36
|
|
|
mobby_6kl posted:Well, then! I already have a junkyard motor in my NB2 I do, somewhere. I made 140whp/120ft-lbs with a really lovely tune that I haven't touched.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2015 11:57
|
|
|
I made a dumb. I did an oil change on my NC, and after marveling that it uses the same exact filter in the same exact location on the block as my old 2012 focus 2.0L; I seem to have created a chassis lubrication system. I noted that the subframe under the oil filter looks more like something off a Massey-Ferguson than a Mazda and investigated further. It would seem that my oil filter is weeping oil off the bottom of the can. I suspect this means I did not clean the mating surface on the block and now a bit of grit is fouling the gasket, causing a small leak. Is there any way to remove/replace the filter without having to do a full oil change on these? I dread trying to take the filter off and having 4.5 quarts of fresh 5w20 dump on my face.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2015 13:42
|
|
|
Phone posted:A junkyard VVT swap is a few grand, a K swap approaches 10k for everything. poo poo, I thought a K swap would be less than that.....The swap kit is $3800, you should be able to get a JY motor for under a grand right? Either way, if I'm gonna swap a motor in my NA it's gonna be a K. If I go the VVT route I'll just sell my NA and buy an NB which I have been seriously considering. Also have been considering a 6cyl Z4 
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2015 15:55
|
|
|
mobby_6kl posted:Well, then! I already have a junkyard motor in my NB2 Megasquirt, Generic aluminum tube "CAI", removed the butterflies from the 2001+ header, RB header and exhaust. If you want to track your car this costs 1/2 of what a reliable turbo system will cost you. Click for big. 
FatCow fucked around with this message at 16:28 on Mar 14, 2015 |
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2015 16:25
|
|
|
Taco Box posted:
You can just spin the filter off after letting the car sit overnight. Most of the oil will be in the oil pan. The filter will still be full, but it will be several ounces at most.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2015 17:13
|
|
|
Savington posted:You can just spin the filter off after letting the car sit overnight. Most of the oil will be in the oil pan. The filter will still be full, but it will be several ounces at most. Thanks man, I'll get it up on ramps overnight and then see wtf is going on with my gasket.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2015 22:21
|
|
|
I've heard stories of the old gasket getting stuck to the block. Look carefully to make sure you don't have 2 gaskets now :P
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2015 23:25
|
|
|
CharlesM posted:I've heard stories of the old gasket getting stuck to the block. Look carefully to make sure you don't have 2 gaskets now :P I made sure I didn't double gasket the thing :-) In other NC news, the canvas tops on NC miatas suck balls. The factory top is really bad about letting glue from the stuff on the underside seep up through the canvas in hot climates. For example:  I tried something on the two stripes above the windows that showed up on my tan roof and I can finally say, I've found something that works. I work in machining, and we have this ink remover stuff that will take pretty much anything petroleum based off of metal. The particular stuff I used was this: sprayon sp606 It's not 100% and I should have taken before and after pics, because my top looked like rear end, but now it looks much better. I would have taken pics if I thought it'd work, since nothing else has! Anyway, use that stuff and keep it the hell away from paint! It doesn't seem to have harmed the canvas at all. I'm saving up to put a robbins on anyway and I figured what the hell, try this poo poo on there. BloodBag fucked around with this message at 23:59 on Mar 14, 2015 |
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2015 23:56
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 6, 2024 16:57 |
|
|
Someone local is selling a set of Special Edition Enkei wheels cheap and I was thinking of getting them until I looked up how much they weigh. 18 lbs a piece, gently caress that.
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2015 00:27
|
|