|
Z3n posted:Also no one buys ABS bikes in the US because a magazine article once showed that ABS is .3 seconds slower a lap around the track because it's just so intrusive. There is a lot of anti ABS sentiment out there but modern ABS is drat good and should be available on more bikes. There have been some rumblings in the EU about making ABS mandatory on all new bikes, just as ABS and now ESP is on all new cars. People have been mumbling about how much of a price hike we'll see. I don't think it'll be too bad.
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2012 19:09
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 3, 2024 22:28 |
|
|
KozmoNaut posted:There have been some rumblings in the EU about making ABS mandatory on all new bikes, just as ABS and now ESP is on all new cars. It'd have to be a fail-safe system, so non-ABS would only be a fuse pull away
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2012 19:30
|
|
|
That was true with cars too, right up until someone realized they could save a couple bucks by running the speedometer off the rationalized input from 2 or 3 ABS sensors instead of the "extra" wiring and parts for a Vehicle Speed Sensor on the trans or diff.  Even before that, running the odometer off an ABS sensor and the speedo off the VSS was a thing.
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2012 19:37
|
|
|
Ponies ate my Bagel posted:Does ABS=no stoppies? Just thoughtexperimenting here: The front wheel shouldn't trigger it since it is still moving. However, it might if the ABS factor in speed of the rear wheel too. edit: Dieses Deutsches ütube tells me that some ABS systems are stoppie free and others turn you into a bouncy castle. We have also learned that I am no Albert Einstein.
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2012 21:46
|
|
|
Tried starting my KLR the other day. Made a loud bang, didn't start. All the starter does is click, there doesn't seem to be any mechanical turning in there. Was the bang a fuse blowing?
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2012 08:21
|
|
|
What is the go to resource for bike pricing? I remember hearing that Kelly BB was way off, is there something better?
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2012 10:19
|
|
|
Gnaghi posted:What is the go to resource for bike pricing? I remember hearing that Kelly BB was way off, is there something better? I use something like searchtempest and search the local area +150ish miles for whatever bike I'm trying to price out, if I'm looking at used prices. For new pricing I have no clue. Using searchtempest or something similar is helpful because it'll give you pricing for whatever market you're currently in as opposed to some national average.
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2012 10:26
|
|
|
You'd think ABS kits were at least feasible. Two speed sensors, a brain, a two channel modulator and some plumbing. It could even have a brake bleed assist mode and tunable response. In addition to a really cool guarded OFF switch.
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2012 10:33
|
|
|
niethan posted:Tried starting my KLR the other day. Made a loud bang, didn't start. All the starter does is click, there doesn't seem to be any mechanical turning in there. Was the bang a fuse blowing? Fuses usually don't make a noise when they blow. You say there's a click when you press the starter button, but it doesn't actually try to start? Sounds like your starter relay is working, but the starter motor itself isn't. Edit, maybe, maybe not.  Here, on the left side of your bike, is your starter relay and your starter circuit relay. I *think* that both of these should click when you press the button. Check 'em both.What happens when you try to bump start the bike? Safety Dance fucked around with this message at 10:47 on Apr 19, 2012 |
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2012 10:41
|
|
|
Safety Dance posted:Fuses usually don't make a noise when they blow. You say there's a click when you press the starter button, but it doesn't actually try to start? Sounds like your starter relay is working, but the starter motor itself isn't. HAven't tried bumping it yet, I had to get somewhere so I took off my gear and hopped on a bus, don't have access right now, so this is all the info I got. I guess I'll have to have a proper look.
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2012 10:54
|
|
|
There are a couple reasons ABS took a while to get on bikes. - Weight - the added sensors, lines, electronics and whatever actuators add at least a little, it's like a pound or two with newer systems (some googling has a Bosch unit bragging about 1.6kg total system weight), but when you have guys getting skeletonized levers to shave those last few ounces, every bit adds up (mostly in terms of advertising bragging rights.) - Early ABS units were pretty slow and crude in operation - think of an early ABS car and the shuddering/banging when the ABS kicked on, not something you really want on a bike. Newer ABS is -much- quicker, and thus much smoother, and more appropriate for two-wheeled use. - ABS on a motorcycle is more complex than ABS on a car for the simple reason that you only have two wheels, and there are a lot of reasons why those wheels would have a speed differential that don't involve a sliding braked tire. Cars don't really have this problem. So your ABS has to be a lot more clever to keep from intruding when it's not needed. - ABS doesn't seem to be used for racing much (see above reasons) so couch racers don't want it on their rides either. Of course with the latest traction control wizardy you basically get ABS for free. - Standard Internet / bike shop fuddery about how ABS will hurl you off the side / over the handlebars / disable your brakes and send you crashing into that Escalade that just pulled a left from the right lane / catch fire in your garage/ run off with your wife and steal your dog. The forum for my bike is full of this nonsense. I've got ABS on my Speed Triple and if it's an option to get your bike with it, I recommend it.
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2012 11:07
|
|
|
I guess if there ever was a time for ABS kits, it's behind us. Pretty soon it will be at least optional on any relevant bike, the markets that don't care about OEM ABS wouldn't care about aftermarket kits either.
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2012 11:47
|
|
|
invision posted:I use something like searchtempest and search the local area +150ish miles for whatever bike I'm trying to price out, if I'm looking at used prices. For new pricing I have no clue. Yeah that's what I'm doing now. Depending on the model, bike prices can vary quite a lot on there, though.
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2012 12:34
|
|
|
Gnaghi posted:What is the go to resource for bike pricing? I remember hearing that Kelly BB was way off, is there something better? NADA is really accurate.
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2012 12:51
|
|
|
Posted on 2strokeworld, but I'm reposting here, as I know there are some electrical and suspension gurus here:quote:Hopefully this weekend I will have some time to get around to freshening up my 1975 Kawi F11-250, and I was hoping to get some direction from the gurus. Unfortunately, there is little to no info on this bike out on ye olde internette. I need to do a couple of things: Anyone have any ideas? I dont know how to tell how many phases or whatever my charging system is, and having no wiring diagram doesnt help. Nerobro, I need you!!!
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2012 14:50
|
|
|
Get a whole new charging system for like $100 from this dude: http://oregonmotorcycleparts.com/ You could have a number of things going on - you could have brushes that are worn out. You could have the windings on the stator hosed up. You could have a rectifier that isn't functioning. Do you own a decent voltmeter? If not walmart carries a nice one that is <$30. Basically you need to spend a bit of time learning how an old motorcycle charging system works, then read about how to diagnose them. I did this last summer. Learn it once and you'll probably be able to diagnose just about any charging system for any bike. They only got simpler as they got more modern. edit: I suggest you diagnose what is wrong prior to buying any parts
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2012 15:44
|
|
|
n8r posted:Get a whole new charging system for like $100 from this dude: Care to suggest some reading? I'm more than willing to learn about this stuff
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2012 16:43
|
|
|
On suspension, I'd pull the forks and measure the springs and try and find replacements. Adding preload doesn't help when the bike is hopelessly undersprung.
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2012 16:48
|
|
|
Olde Weird Tip posted:Care to suggest some reading? I'm more than willing to learn about this stuff http://www.dansmc.com/electricaltesting.htm and the electrosportpdf should be plenty, there really isn't much to bike electrics
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2012 18:49
|
|
|
Quick question, can you safely ride a bike in the northeastern winter months? I think i know the answer, but i only have one (mild) northeastern winter in my belt.
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2012 19:21
|
|
|
Just did my first oil change in the 2010 ninja 250. 1000 miles and 350 of those are mine! Easy as pie. Had the crush washer, o rings, filter and 2 quarts of conventional motor oil. Got non energy conserving oil rather than paying the pretty penny for "motorcycle oil".
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2012 20:01
|
|
|
n8r posted:Get a whole new charging system for like $100 from this dude: According to this, I apparently dont have brushes, so thats one thing off the list 
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2012 20:10
|
|
|
ElMaligno posted:Quick question, can you safely ride a bike in the northeastern winter months? I think i know the answer, but i only have one (mild) northeastern winter in my belt.
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2012 20:20
|
|
|
Olde Weird Tip posted:According to this, I apparently dont have brushes, so thats one thing off the list You'll only have brushes if you have a generator -- they're part of the commutator, which is basically a mechanical rectifier. All alternator systems use a solid-state rectifier to accomplish the same thing with no moving parts. Incidentally that also means that you won't have a discrete rectifier if you have a generator (but both systems will have a regulator). Incidentally, yes that flowchart should work if you just cut all the voltages in half. A maximum voltage of 14.8v means that you should be seeing no higher than 7.4, for instance. And yes, you can get away with a Radio Shack rectifier, as long as it's rated for the proper amount of power...it's a simple part and there's not a whole lot of variation in design. You can even build one yourself with four power diodes if you like.
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2012 20:21
|
|
|
That's weird, is "brushes or solid-state rectifier, but not both" specific to bike alternators vs. bike generators?
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2012 20:28
|
|
|
An "alternator" is a device that uses spinning magnets (rotor) and stationary coils (stator) to produce an alternating current. Well, sometimes you have spinning coils and stationary magnets with a slip ring, but the point is that an alternator produces alternating current from mechanical rotation. Technically, a "generator" is just an alternator combined with a system that converts the AC to DC so that you can charge a battery. This conversion is called "rectification". The modern way do this is with a set of silicon diodes that are arranged to invert half of the AC phase. Connect that unit to an alternator and you have a DC generator. Before solid-state electronics became common, we had to use a mechanical system to perform the rectification. Most commonly this was a commutator, which is a kind of interrupter that switches the polarity of the external contacts as the shaft of the alternator rotates, so you the same kind of half-inverted DC output. Commutators require "brushes" (formerly actual wire brushes, later graphite rods) that slide over contacts on the shaft to do this conversion. The brushes wear down and have to be adjusted and replaced eventually. Since the commutator was combined with the alternator in one unit that produced DC, that whole thing was called a "generator". Now that the tasks are separated into two pieces, we call each piece by what it actually is. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 20:47 on Apr 19, 2012 |
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2012 20:45
|
|
|
XYLOPAGUS posted:Just did my first oil change in the 2010 ninja 250. 1000 miles and 350 of those are mine! Easy as pie. Isn't the energy conserving oil really bad for wet clutches?
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2012 20:53
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:An "alternator" is a device that uses spinning magnets (rotor) and stationary coils (stator) to produce an alternating current. Well, sometimes you have spinning coils and stationary magnets with a slip ring, but the point is that an alternator produces alternating current from mechanical rotation. Well, the reason I'm confused (and wanted to know if this was bike-specific) is the device on my car's called an alternator and has both brushes and a diode-based rectifier. I've had to replace both. e: links Splizwarf fucked around with this message at 21:28 on Apr 19, 2012 |
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2012 21:22
|
|
|
ElMaligno posted:Quick question, can you safely ride a bike in the northeastern winter months? I think i know the answer, but i only have one (mild) northeastern winter in my belt. Are you asking if you can get by with just a bike and no car? The answer is no unless you are able use alternate means of transport as often as 25% of the time in the colder months. How often you can ride depends on where you live - really down to the local area and how good they are at plowing the streets. I live in Philly suburbia and ride year round. Last winter there were maybe a total of 10 days where I didn't ride. Winter before that? Probably 4-5 weeks total due to all the snow and ice - and my car slid off into a guardrail on black ice that winter. Your ability to ride is really limited by how fast your municipality gets the snow off the roads. Even after the big snow falls I was out on the streets the next day if the local roads were clear. Also if you ride in the winter months - be REALLY careful of salt piles in corners and at stop signs. The salt spreader trucks stop at turns and stop signs, all while their auger is still running and a nice big pile of salt building under them. They can be tricky to spot due to the roads turning white from the salt and thus the piles blending in. The cold has never been a problem for me but my commute is about an hour, I don't think I could do two hours without heated gear.
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2012 21:25
|
|
|
Splizwarf posted:Well, the reason I'm confused (and wanted to know if this was bike-specific) is the device on my car's called an alternator and has both brushes and a diode-based rectifier. Interesting. Do you have a diagram of it? And is it a fairly heavy-duty unit? I'll bet it's the rotating-coil type -- those still need "brushes" (contactors) for the slip rings that carry the power out from the shaft, but they don't have the split contacts like a commutator does. The only real reason to use rotating coils is for increased cooling, though, because otherwise it's not worth the hassle.
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2012 21:29
|
|
|
I added links, if that helps. Increased cooling is a good assumption, it also has a fan on one side that sucks air through it. I don't know what the line is before it's heavy-duty but it's an old Volvo so that's a good assumption too; everything on them's heavy-duty except for the interior trim. 
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2012 21:32
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:You'll only have brushes if you have a generator -- they're part of the commutator, which is basically a mechanical rectifier. All alternator systems use a solid-state rectifier to accomplish the same thing with no moving parts. Incidentally that also means that you won't have a discrete rectifier if you have a generator (but both systems will have a regulator). I don't profess enough to know all the exact terminology here I just know how it works. My R5 which has brushes has a separate regulator and rectifier. Regardless the fact that he doesn't have brushes means the system is a bit simpler. I think the main initial problem is you are running with a bad battery. A bad battery can screw with any bike let along a 40 year old one. It could in fact be acting like a big resistor. Also lights sucked balls back then - so if you have an original bulb it may only be some 25w piece of poo poo. Get a good battery in there and look at lighting options first. Your charging system is just fine if it runs >13v when you rev the motor across the battery poles.
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2012 21:44
|
|
|
front wing flexing posted:Isn't the energy conserving oil really bad for wet clutches? Yes which is why I avoided it. You may have read my post wrong.
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2012 00:31
|
|
|
XYLOPAGUS posted:Yes which is why I avoided it. You may have read my post wrong. I'm not sure what you got but if it's not JASO-MA labelled it's going to be bad for your clutch. Which basically limits you to 'motorcycle' oil. The energy-conserving stuff is a separate distinction.
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2012 07:44
|
|
|
Yay, an oil thread
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2012 13:52
|
|
|
If your oil's got threads in it, that', like, Morgellons of the crank case or something.
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2012 14:55
|
|
|
Chalazae from organic, free-range oil.
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2012 15:37
|
|
|
Is there an easy way to tell if old gas has been left unstabilized in a bike before? I am going to look at a 9 year old bike with 5000km on it and I'm pretty worried this might be the case. And if it is, I'd like to knock him down on it.
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2012 16:49
|
|
|
RE: oil chat Rotella T6, the end. Corrupt Cypher posted:Is there an easy way to tell if old gas has been left unstabilized in a bike before? I am going to look at a 9 year old bike with 5000km on it and I'm pretty worried this might be the case. And if it is, I'd like to knock him down on it. Check the tank for any rust, or if it smells junkyard-ish. If the tank isn't rusty and it starts though, old gas being in there at some point really doesn't make a difference.
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2012 16:53
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 3, 2024 22:28 |
|
|
AncientTV posted:RE: oil chat Varnishing the carbs isn't a concern?
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2012 16:56
|
|